Meall nan Tarmachan

Meall Garbh and Bidean nan Eanach From Meall nan Tarmachan

Saturday September 12th was always going to be a special, if difficult, day this year; a day requiring the distraction of an engaging Highland hill offering peace, solitude and time to reflect. What better hill to remember a wonderful companion and some truly magical times than Meall nan Tarmachan, my last Munro on my first round almost 10 years to the day in 1999. This very accessible mountain, perched high above Loch Tay and the well-placed Highland village of Killin, is one of the most popular hills in the southern Highlands. Essentially, it is a collection of 4 tops linked by a real Highland gem - the entertaining ‘Ptarmigan Ridge’ which twists and turns for about 4km over and around countless hillocks and depressions. This was my third ascent and unbroken autumnal sunshine and warm temperatures conspired to produce a memorable day deserving of the date.

Ben Lawers

The mountain is best accessed from the small road that climbs up above Loch Tay and over into the western end of Glen Lyon. A short way past the now closed National Trust for Scotland visitor centre (regrettably more functional than aesthetic in design), a junction on the left with a Scottish Hydro access track provides parking for several cars. Walk along the track for 400m before branching off to the right and follow a good quality path which intercepts the southern ridge of the Munro. Passing a spot height at 923m, the path descends slightly before climbing sharply up grassy slopes to the summit of Meall nan Tarmachan (hill of the ptarmigans; 1044m). As you approach the summit, the rest of the Ptarmigan ridge – and most of the southern Highlands - opens up and the views stay with you for the remainder of the traverse. Today the late afternoon sun greatly added to the scenery by highlighting all the intervening hillocks and depressions between the 4 main tops of the ridge. Today’s visitors to the summit included a stern-looking gentleman with a heavy rucksack whose interpersonal skills sadly did not extend to saying hello to his fellow hillwalkers, a group of valiant walkers who had gamely achieved this high top despite having physiques not generally associated with flogging up Munros ( well done them), and a couple of septuagenarians who offered everyone the hope of growing old gracefully whilst completing an umpteenth round of Munros! Further afield, wide views stretched out in every direction with Ben Nevis conspicuous to the north west and the Glen Lochay hills filling the near distance to the west. Eastwards, the Ben Lawers range filled the horizon whilst to the south, you could just detect the hazy Pentland Hills beyond Edinburgh.

Bidean nan Eachan From Meall Garbh

From the summit, I walked easily down the grassy slope heading south-west to a delightful col with 2 tiny lochans before a very modest climb to the equally delightful sharp rocky summit of Meall Garbh (rough hill; 1026m), the central peak of the range. Those not planning to traverse the whole ridge should at least visit this top thereby gaining some flavour for what the ridge has to offer. A good path descends south from just east of Meall Garbh and connects with the Hydro track that takes you back to your car. Sturdier souls or those with more time should continue west descending steeply to the next col before climbing once again around countless knolls and depressions to the next top: Beinn nan Eachan (hill of the horse; 1000m). From here, descend steeply down a grassy slope to one final col before turning south and traversing the lowest top on the ridge, Creag na Caillich (crag of the old woman; 916m). This hill’s eastern crags makes a direct descent into the corrie difficult so either return to the last col and descend south-eastwards, or continue south until the crags can be turned and then head east to pick up the original Hydro track back to the car.

The View South to Ben Vorlich and Stuc a' Chroin

The complete traverse can easily fill a fine summer’s day; alternatively, the eastern horseshoe traversing Meall nan Tarmachan and Meall Garbh would suit a half-day or something for winter! In either case, save the Ptarmigan Ridge for a clear, sunny day and see it at its best!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm