Hillways

Ben Nevis - A Battle Royal!

2011-11-26T21:44:00.001Z

The Only Photo Taken All Day!

Well the MWIS forecast wasn't quite spot on - we were spared the 100mph winds - but it did rain on our parade, very heavily and all day long! Niall flew over from Ireland, Michelle came all the way from New York City and Laura just popped up from Edinburgh - and the 4 of us battled gamely away in the most atrocious conditions all the way to the summit cairn and all the way down again.

Congratulations all on a very impressive achievement. It was not a day for the faint-hearted, nor polite conversation, leisurely picnics or sunbathing. It was a day for hunkering on down and fighting each step of the way; the drive home was pretty ferocious too!

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

Ben Nevis - First Snow of Winter!

2011-10-17T21:59:00.000+01:00

The week has started with a pretty brisk up and down the Ben with Cheryl who decided that climbing the highest mountain in the British Isles to raise money for Rett UK ( http://www.rettuk.org/rettuk-public/rettuk.html ) was a great way of remembering a close friend. It certainly was.

The weather forecast was atrocious – strong winds, heavy showers and snow! Accordingly, we started up the hill with an open mind and I took along the ice axes just as a precaution. As it was, we enjoyed the best of the day with little wind and no showers. Yes there was snow and some ice on the upper part of the mountain and yes it started snowing once we were on top, but we had no complaints.

The snow turned to rain and remained with us all the way down but it couldn’t take away Cheryl’s amazing personal achievement, climbing her first mountain in a most creditable time (6½hrs from start to finish) and raising over £1,000 for a great cause.

It was a privilege to guide her.

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

North Wales 2011 – Bringing It All Back Home

2011-10-10T21:07:00.019+01:00

Y Garn From Tryfan

A series of energetic convective fronts have seemingly straddled northern Britain for as long as I can remember this late summer/early autumn. This has resulted in repeated and sustained precipitation in all heatwave-excluded areas of the UK leading to swollen rivers, waterlogged ground and the most miserable meteorological conditions. This will not have gone unnoticed by anyone attempting to ply an honest trade in the upland areas of this windswept little island that clings – with some obstinacy it seems – to the eastern fringes of the mighty Atlantic Ocean!

In other words, it’s been raining for ever!

Carnedd Dafydd & the Black Ladders

Long ago and far away a far-sighted local education authority in NW London bought some old stables in a beautiful valley on the western edge of Snowdonia. School parties from the area were organised, initially to work on the stables to make them habitable, and then to use it them a base for outdoor activities. Thus began my life-long love affair with mountains and all that goes with them. The mountains of N Wales will always have a special place in my heart and so I was delighted when Jennifer asked me to return there with her and help her get to know them better. Needless to say, most of the accompanying photos come from another time!

Carnedd Dafydd From Carnedd Llywelyn

Regrettably, the weather gods conspired to dent our master plan of completing all fourteen 3,000’ peaks in the Snowdonia National Park over a 4-day period and we ultimately spent just 2 days of trudging through the wind and rain on what turned out to be a largely viewless return to my mountain roots.

Pen y Ole Wen From Llyn Idwal

Day 1 saw a welcome ‘high’ start (305m) from the eastern end of Lyn Ogwen for a gentle climb up the well-marked, if squelchy, path alongside the Afon Lloer. Just before reaching the well-hidden glacial tarn of Ffynnon Lloer (fountain of the moon), we turned left up some entertaining scrambles through a couple of rock bands before gaining the upper ridge that leads to the surprisingly flat summit of Pen yr Ole Wen (978m; hill of the white light). No views of course and it took some concentrated map and compass work to locate the rounded ridge that leads NW and then N from here to the other peaks of the Carneddau range.

Carnedd Dafydd From Pen y Ole Wen

These followed in quick succession, largely insignificant knuckles on a gently meandering ridge with intermittent boulder fields proving to be decidedly dodgy in the wet. Carnedd Dafydd (1044m; David’s Cairn) came and went and we had no sight of the dark dank cliffs of Ysgolion Duon (black ladders) that plunge into the abyss on the N side of the ridge. Then came the sneaky left turn in the ridge at Craig Llugwy before the final easy climb to Carnedd Llywelyn (1064m; Llywelyn’s Cairn).

Carnedd Llywelyn From Pen yr Helgi Du

Still no views and very wet and windy so we decided against any further misery and descended to the Ogwen valley SE via Ffynnon Llugwy. Soon after leaving the summit, the clouds finally relented and wide, if misty, vistas opened out over lonely Cwm Eigiau with its deserted slate mine buildings. We were also granted a view of the sharp wedge of Tryfan across the Ogwen valley. Immediately below us we were now able to inspect the vertical cliffs of Craig yr Ysfa whilst ahead lay the shapely mounds of Pen yr Helgi Du (hill of the black hound) and Pen Lithrig y Wrach (the delightfully named slippery hill of the witch)!

Pen Lithrig y Wrach and Pen yr Helgi Du

The long straight metalled reservoir access road took us quickly back to the A5 which we followed for a mercifully short mile back to the car. We were almost dry by the time we got to the car. Almost…

Tryfan

Day 2 saw a return to Llyn Ogwen this time to tackle some peaks in the Glyder range on the opposite side of the road. Unfortunately, an unrelenting fine drizzle was falling out of thick and very low clouds and we limited ourselves to an extended circuit of the finest corrie in Wales, Cwm Idwal. The excellent path carried us up to the cwm, past the Idwal Slabs and up the distinctive gash of Twll Du (black hole a.k.a. Devil’s Kitchen).

Cwm Idwal

Once on the skyline, we passed by Llyn y Cwn almost invisible in the murk before the steady climb to the big pile of stones and shelter that marks the summit of Y Garn (947m; the cairn). Shortly after leaving the summit we left the windy ridge for the peaceful calm of the mountain’s NE corrie and, whilst the drizzle persisted, the absence of wind was as welcome as it was sudden.

Pen y Ole Wen Across Cwm Idwal

The path descends steeply back into Cwm Idwal and is being repaired lower down – more excellent work from the National Park path-builders! Soon Llyn Idwal emerged from the cloud, then the outward path and finally the road. In 3½hrs we had visited a great corrie, been close to some amazing rock architecture and climbed one the region’s finest peaks. All we really had to show for our efforts were wet clothes and a couple of unused cameras!

Yet Another Heavy Shower (this one missed)!

So in the face of unrelenting rain, 4 days became 2 days and we spent the rest of the time driving around some old haunts, drinking copious amounts of coffee and reading vast amounts of Sunday newsprint. There’s only so much punishment you can take. Better luck next year! Perhaps…..

It was still great to be back though!

Defiant in the Face of Adversity!

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

Torridon 2011

2011-10-02T17:58:00.017+01:00

Liathach

Autumnal winds and rain combined to provide a challenging few days in Torridon last week but Christine was delighted with her first visit to this sublime land of monster mountains! Saving the best days for the best peaks, we filled in the remaining generally dreich days with some micro nav practice, one of Scotland’s finest Corbetts and a drive to Ullapool to check out the latte situation! The lengthening evenings were mainly spent watching my box set of Eddie Izzard DVDs whilst listening to the rain hammering against the windows!

Liathach

High on the Mountain

Always reserved for the best day of any visit to Torridon, Scotland’s most majestic mountain never fails to impress those I take on their first visit. Filling the view as you pass Loch Clair at the eastern entrance to Glen Torridon, this mighty battleship of a mountain appears impregnable. Fortunately, an excellent wee path leads almost directly up into the hanging corrie of Toll a’ Meitheach before climbing across the upper mountain-side to a small, sharp bealach immediately west of the easternmost top of the mountain.

The Summit Ridge of Liathach

We followed this path and were almost immediately rewarded by the sight of a golden eagle high above us flying powerfully against the strong southerly wind and maintaining height without one single wing flap. Very impressive - and it was the only bird we saw on the mountain all day! Those taking this route up on to the mountain – and there aren’t too many others to choose from – should always always always take time to take the short detour on to Liathach’s easternmost top, Stuc a’ Choire Dhuibh Bhig (915m; peak of the little black corrie). Apart from giving an excellent view across to neighbouring Beinn Eighe, it is from here you get the classic view of Liathach’s summit ridge. A roof-top of quartzite boulders twists and turns towards the mountain’s highest point above near-vertical red Torridonian sandstone terraces that fall away to the valley floor, far below.

Am Fasarinen Pinnacles

The next hour was spent winding our way along this highway in the sky before the final steep, if short, climb up to the summit of the mountain: Spidean a’ Choire Leith (1055m; peak of the grey corrie). It is only when you get to this point that Liathach’s central and western sections become visible with the sandstone pinnacles of Am Fasarinen leading the eye on to the distinctive summit of Mullach an Rathain.

The Alternative Path Avoiding Am Fasarinen

It remained very windy despite the sunshine and we opted out of the pinnacles mid-way along and traded the exposed ridgeline for the alternative path that traverses the southern side of the mountain a few metres below the crest. Am Fasarinen safely negotiated, we followed the path across a surprisingly broad patch of grass and up the increasingly defined ridge to our 2nd Munro of the day, Mullach an Rathain (1023m; summit of the pinnacles).

Mullach an Rathain, Liathach

Most folk’s daily walking schedule will ensure they get to this western summit in the late afternoon when a lower angle of sun and the warmest time of the day combine to enhance the view west out over Loch Torridon towards Skye. Always a pleasure; never a chore!

Spidean a’ Choire Leith From Mullach an Rathain

When descending from here directly south into Glen Torridon, take great care – the upper corrie of Toll Ban (white hole) is badly eroded and a real nightmare to negotiate. It is now much better – and safer – to keep to the western arm of Toll Ban for a few hundred metres before descending left down into the corrie. A reasonable path is intercepted and followed back down into Glen Torridon. The 3Km walk back along the floor of the Glen to the car is never tedious – just keep looking up at the soaring sandstone terraces of Liathach (the grey one) and reflect on what should be one of your great mountain days!

Fuar Tholl

Fuar Tholl Above Achnashellach

To the south of Glen Torridon lie a clutch of peaks within the Coulin Forest. Lacking the insular property of the Torridonian giants, they nevertheless represent fine mountains deserving of a visit by more than just Munro baggers! Whilst it is the 3 Munros here that will attract most attention, my own favourite is the Corbett of Fuar Tholl. Whilst this impressive chunk of Torridonian sandstone presents gentle grassy slopes to the south, its most impressive features are the sheer buttresses and steep-sided corries that girdle the mountain’s northern and eastern aspects.

Fuar Tholl From the South-East

Regrettably, Chris got to see very little of my favourite Corbett as persistent rain and thick cloud denied her any meaningful glimpse of the upper mountain. However, she did get to enjoy the scenic climb up into Coire Lair from Achnashellach Station at the start of the day, as well as the colourful views of rain-washed upper Glen Carron once we emerged from the clouds sometime later! There was also the (usual) challenging crossing of the River Lair soon after leaving the main Coire Lair path for the Bhealaich Mhoir and Fuar Tholl’s northern corrie. In between it was very much head down and follow the leader with only the odd roaring stag and alpine flower to threaten the greyness!

The Coulin Forest Peaks

Someone has demolished the fine stone trig point on the summit – the saddest thing I saw all day. Now, only its small protective wall marks the summit of this fine hill, Fuar Tholl (907m; cold hole). Hopefully, the Fuar Tholl Preservation Society will rebuild it soon – once they have some members!

Beinn Eighe

Beinn Eighe From Glen Torridon

Similar in length to Liathach, but composed mainly of Cambrian quartzite, hence its light-coloured appearance, Beinn Eighe (file mountain) looks more like a mountain range (similar to the Grey Corries perhaps) than a single mountain. Like Liathach, it also comprises 2 Munros and several intervening summits. However, its most spectacular feature lies hidden at the north-western end of the massif where the towering walls of the Triple Buttress enclose mighty Coire Mhic Fhearchair and its eponymous loch.

Liathach From Beinn Eighe

It was amazingly warm and windless as we left the car on the excellent path up into Coire an Laoigh (corrie of the calves) mid-way along the mountain’s southern flanks that sweep down into Glen Torridon. Two walkers we had encountered in the glen walking in the wrong direction appeared to be so disheartened to hear they’d walked an unnecessary additional 4Km at the start of their day, they promptly got back into their car and drove away! No such problems for us though as we climbed under gathering clouds up the steepening corrie headwall to the trig point (this one was still standing!) that marked our arrival on the main ridgeline.

Eastern Ridge of Beinn Eighe

The first Munro of the day lay just 200m to the east and we battled against the strengthening wind to quickly secure both the peak and the accompanying views in both directions along the long main ridge of the mountain: Spidean Coire nan Clach (993m; peak of the stony corrie).

Looking West From Spidean Coire nan Clach

Back at the trig point and still with great views despite the approaching clouds and heavy showers, we hastened westwards over quartzite boulders, sandstone pavements and lush grass to the level mossy summit of Coinneach Mhor (big moss) before leaving the main ridge for the northern spur that leads to the mountain’s highest point: Ruadh-stac Môr (1010m; big red peak). Chris whooped with delight at one last grand view from the summit cairn before the cloud and rain swept in with a vengeance and restricted us to views of each other as we returned via the outward route. Almost the last thing we saw was a big, noisy red deer stag moving down into Coire Mhic Fhearchair, his bellowing roar echoing around the mighty rock amphitheatre. We eventually descended below the cloud-line quite low down the mountain as we returned to Glen Torridon and the waiting car.

Beinn Eighe From Kinlochewe

The grim weather continued for the remainder of the week and there is only so much squelchy trudging you can tolerate in the pursuit of happiness. To her great credit, Chris agreed and she was happy to leave Slioch and Beinn Alligin for the return visit she had quickly realised it would take to do these amazing mountains justice!

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

Knoydart & Kintail

2011-09-18T21:19:00.003+01:00

The Five Sisters of Kintail - Sgurr Fhuaran

We sailed into Knoydart with the remnants of Hurricane Katia bearing down on us. We sailed out 3 days later in sublime west coast sunshine, a flat calm and blue skies! In between, we sat out the storm and waited for conditions to allow us one big mountain day before moving on to Kintail where we faired somewhat better. Catherine will have to return to Knoydart to add Ladhar Bheinn to her rapidly growing list of Munros but her accomplished traverse of the Forcan Ridge in Kintail in difficult conditions more than made up for any unclimbed mountains.

Knoydart: Meall Buidhe & Luinne Bheinn

The Knoydart Munros From the Inverie Ferry

This 26Km round of 2 Munros and the huge, ice-stripped bowl of Coire Odhair is never easy but we managed it in under 9hrs in reasonable conditions and with some views. For the 2nd time in as many months, a stalking group passed us on the walk-in and the sight of them and some fishermen on the Inverie River reminded us that this is very much a working estate, not just a hill-walkers playground. We walked up into Gleann Meadail before striking up the bracken-covered hillside on to Druim Righeanaich and followed the long, gently climbing ridge to the summit of Meall Buidhe (946m; yellow hill). There’s a 70m dip before the final climb to the summit which less than impressed Catherine I can tell you, so be warned of false summits!

Catherine 'Bathing' in the Sunshine on Luinne Bheinn!

The mountain’s SE Top lies a short distance away from where the path plunges steeply (but clearly) down and then over a series of humps and hillocks that form the enclosing ridge of Coire Odhair. This route can be tricky in cloudy conditions so take care and avoid any difficulties by staying on the west side of the ridge. The view to the east includes the distinctive cone of Sgurr na Ciche and the very impressive Corbett of Ben Aden. A smidgen of sun emerged from behind dark clouds – enough for Catherine to declare we were now officially ‘bathing’ in sunshine! Being from Oban, her views on what constitutes meaningful sunshine obviously differ from mine…

Luinne Bheinn

The lowest point on the ridge (684m) comes just before the climb up steep grassy slopes to the next Munro: Luinne Bheinn (939m; swelling hill). Like Meall Buidhe, this peak has 2 summits; in this case, the highest point is again the western-most one which is 2m higher and 500m to the west of the lower summit. Great views suddenly emerged down to Barrisdale and across Loch Hourn to Arnisdale – one (and probably the only) advantage of Luinne Bheinn being such a steeply-sided mountain on all sides!

Meall Buidhe & Sgurr na Ciche From Inverie

With our long 2hr walk-out stretched out below us we descended to the bealach (pass) of Mam Barrisdale and picked up the squelchy, but reasonable, track that took us nearly all the way home. I say nearly as, right on cue, our stalking friends appeared in their fully-functioning land rover and kindly carried us without any effort from our own legs the short (but very important) last mile to the bunkhouse!

Kintail: The Saddle & Sgurr na Sgine

The Forcan Ridge of The Saddle

Unfortunately, Jon couldn’t make the Kintail leg of our trip so it was just the 2 of us who journeyed north from Fort William in brilliant sunshine to climb some classic west coast mountains. The drive down Glen Shiel never fails to impress and that first view of the coast at Loch Duich as you round the curve at Shiel Bridge is always a special moment. The fire damage from last April when widespread wind-driven flames leapt up the lower slopes of the Five Sisters of Kintail was hardly noticeable. Mother Nature has once again woven her magic spell in covering the charred hillside in lush, new verdant greenery!

Approaching the Forcan Ridge

The next day (naturally), dawned grey, windy and wet. The cloudbase was pretty high though and we embarked on one of the area’s finest excursions: the ascent of The Saddle via that mountain’s scintillating Forcan Ridge! One of the best stalkers’ paths in Scotland leads up from the road and across the slopes of Meallan Odhar. An hour leads to an intervening ridge which curves and climbs up to below The Saddle’s rocky E Top: Sgurr na Forcan to become the Forcan Ridge. What follows can easily be avoided in hostile weather by traversing to the south and remaining below the ridge. Today, however, it was just good enough to continue and we remained on the ridgeline as it reared up into what becomes a sharp, rocky knife-edge of a ridge that concentrates the mind wonderfully!

The Saddle

After reaching the top of Sgurr na Forcan, a more horizontal ridge continues, but it remains very exposed on both sides with some difficult steps that require great care. A short way after leaving Sgurr na Forcan, a seemingly impossible down-step can be avoided down a greasy gulley on the south side of the ridge that enables the ridge to be regained after the difficult step. Eventually, the ground rises to another rocky summit beyond which a short horizontal ridge leads to the summit of The Saddle (1010m). This is the only Munro to have solely an English name with no Gaelic equivalent. It is a great, complex mountain with ridges radiating in all directions and views – on a good day – as good as anywhere. An OS trig point lies 1m lower and 100m further to the W of the main summit.

The Forcan Ridge

After the excitement of the Forcan Ridge, we descended the easy way to the S of the summit, down steep slopes and over a slippery boulder field to the Bealach Coire Mhalagain. Here, a small lochan provides a useful navigation feature in misty conditions. A sketchy path then climbs the hillside to the SE on to the skyline. Here we saw our only people of the day: passing huddles of gore-tex that were returning from our next peak. Soon after, the clouds lifted to reveal bright, if fleeting, sunshine and views along the S Glen Shiel Ridge and across Loch Hourn to the familiar peaks of Knoydart. Ahead, beyond an intermediate Top, lay our 2nd Munro: Sgurr na Sgine (946m; peak of the knife). Don’t be fooled by the gentle approach – the mountain plummets down near-vertical cliffs immediately to the SE of the summit cairn!

Sgurr na Sgine

We returned to the bealach and traversed below Sgurr na Forcan to pick up our outward route and follow it back to the car.

Kintail: Bheinn Fhada & A’Ghlas-bheinn.

Bheinn Fhada

Bheinn Fhada is another fine, complex mountain that extends for 8Km and embraces steep corries, unrelenting grassy slopes and, unusually for these parts, a great flat plateau on top - the Plaide Mhor (great blanket).

The Gates of Affric

We parked, as always, in the woods at Dorusduain and crossed the essential footbridge over the Abhainn Chonaig before joining the excellent path from Morvich. This leads into scenic Gleann Choinneachan which today, was very green, very quiet and very warm! The sunshine continued as we climbed up into Coire an Sgairne and on to the skyline. This is the best route on to Bheinn Fhada – an excellent stalkers’ path that leads all the way on to the Plaide Mhor and with the precipitous northern corries of the mountain and rain-swelled burns for added interest!

Gleann Choinneachan

Once on the plateau, a more sketchy path led us across the Plaide Mhor and eventually up the flat summit and trig point of Bheinn Fhada (1032m; long hill). The views are great: east along Glen Affric to the Great Glen, west across the Plaide Mhor to the sea and a distant Skye, and south to the Five Sisters of Kintail. It is a place to linger on a good day and savour the location.

The Summit of Bheinn Fhada & the Plaide Mhor

We returned part way down our stalkers’ path before traversing around and up to the Bealach an Sgairne: the Gates of Affric. This glacial meltwater channel is the closest point that Scotland’s E-W watershed comes to the west coast. Above it, to the north, a clear and easy path climbs on to the interminable hummocky SE ridge of our 2nd Munro: A’Ghlas-bheinn (918m; the grey-green hill). This otherwise unremarkable hill holds good memories and deserves to be visited occasionally. It is best descended along its broad, grassy W ridge that drops in steps to a beautiful spot by a new bridge where the Strath Croe path to the Falls of Glomach emerges from the forest.

Strath Croe & Loch Duich From A’Ghlas-bheinn

We followed the forest tracks back down to Dorusduain in bright sunshine but with a black sky chasing us and the green glen bedecked with brilliant rainbows. It was yet another golden moment, one of several I’ve enjoyed in this glen over the years. As if to underline how lucky we had been, we drove back to the accommodation in torrential rain!

Rainbow & Dark Skies Over A’Ghlas-bheinn!

It’s been an singularly unspectacular summer weather-wise and this week’s autumnal winds and heavy showers do not bode well for next week’s trip to Torridon. You never know though………

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Glen Coe

2011-09-05T21:35:00.012+01:00

Bidean nam Bian

With only 7 Munros to go, David thought it prudent to get a little help with finishing off the big rocky mountains that line the southern fringe of majestic Glen Coe. Here, above the much-photographed Three Sisters, all ridges lead to the surprisingly diminutive cairn atop the big bulky massif of Bidean nam Bidean, the highest point in Argyll. This peak lies hidden from the A82 as it snakes its way down the ‘Glen of Weeping’. However, a second Munro, Stob Coire Sgreamhach, and the graceful cone of Stob Coire nan Lochan can be seen from the road and these 3 peaks make a great – and not overly long – mountain day in a stunning part of the Scottish Highlands.

Coire Gabhail - The Lost Valley

Setting off from the upper of the 2 adjacent car parks half-way down the Glen, we immediately lost 30m (a point not lost on David) in descending to cross the River Coe. Then it was up the excellent path that leads into Coire Gabhail - the Lost Valley - where the MacDonalds reputedly hid their stolen cattle, although stumbling over the boulders that guard the entrance to this hanging valley, it’s unclear exactly how they got them up here! A tree creeper flitting up and down a nearby birch provided added interest as did the occasional deer on the upper slopes (not long until the rut starts)! Once through the boulder field, the sudden flatness of the valley floor always surprises people on their first visit and it’s always good to be here.

Looking Back Down Coire Gabhail

The path crosses the flats and then climbs leisurely up the right-hand side of the valley towards the skyline. A gentle shower (the only rain of the day) threatened to spoil our day but soon relented, as did the clouds, and we picked our way up the ever-steepening headwall. Take care here as the much-repaired path gives way to slippery scree and the final 20m is tricky on pink rhyolite gravel in a steep narrow gulley. A small cairn marks th e point where the path meets the skyline at the Bealach Dearg (red pass). This route is probably best avoided in descent.

The Etive Hills

We turned left and climbed the easy 120m to the summit of Stob Coire Sgreamhach (1072m; peak of the dreadful corrie). The expansive views across the Etive hills to the south and east were enhanced by a cauldron of clouds that billowed and blew around the surrounding peaks. We had an excellent view of our remaining 2 peaks across the green void of Coire Gabhail.

Coire Gabhail & Bein Fhada From Stob Coire Sgreamhach

We returned the same way back to the Bealach Dearg, paused for lunch in a brief spell of sun, and then climbed through the clouds to our highest point of the day, Bidean nam Bian (1150m; pinnacle of the hills). No view today so we moved quickly on and down the NE ridge rapidly descending to the grassy bealach that separates Bidean from our 3rd peak of the day, Stob Coire nan Lochan (1115m; peak of the corrie of the lochan). The slopes of this fine peak fall away steeply on all sides but one and its eponymous corrie is one of the most popular destinations in the Highlands for winter skills. I’ve always thought it a mountain truly deserving of Munro status.

Stob Coire nan Lochan

In clearing conditions we descended the eastern arc of Coire an Lochan until the slope levelled out and we slipped left into the corrie itself and followed the excellent path down past numerous waterfalls into Glen Coe and so back to the car.

Stob Coire nan Lochan From Glen Coe

This was an exhilarating 6½ mountain day encompassing 3 fine peaks in pretty good conditions that has set me up nicely for next week and a return to Knoydart and then on to Kintail. Autumn is fast approaching and promises to be a busy fulfilling time! Bring it on!

A Happy Man - Only 5 To Go!!!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Knoydart 2011

2011-08-18T16:19:00.009+01:00

Ladhar Bheinn From Barrisdale Bay

Just back from my first visit to Knoydart this year and an interesting week it proved to be. One client, one hill and one day that didn’t happen! I don’t have many photos for you, just a couple of library shots of the mountain we did climb and some pretty pics taken on the way to the pub!

Inverie

We knew Day 2 was going to be wetter than a wet thing so we planned our mountains for Days 1 and 3. Consequently, no sooner were we off the ferry and unpacked than we were heading out for Knoydart’s finest: Ladhar Bheinn. This mighty mountain, the mainland’s western-most Munro, is most easily climbed from the Folach, a ruined house at the end of a good track 6km north of Inverie. Given the late start and a keen eye for an easy life, I was extra receptive to any means of shortening the day. Consequently, a suggestion from our accommodation manager (thanks Christine!) to make use of the neighbourly 4X4 taxi service was seized upon with gleeful anticipation! So it was we shaved a good hour of track-trudging off our afternoon and eliminated the long walk-in that Ladhar Bheinn demands from her southern approaches.

Looking NE From Ladhar Bheinn (a view we didn't see)!

Accompanied for part of the climb by soon-to-be Munroist David (7 to go as I write this!), we climbed the easy grassy slopes and not-so-easy wet path to the skyline of An Diollaid before turning right for the summit ridge. We entered cloud half way to the top and a cool breeze took the edge off most things. It then started to rain on top albeit for no more than 10 mins. Regrettably I only enjoyed the benefit of my waterproofs for 2 of those mins having waited too long for ‘the passing shower’ to pass!

Looking East From Ladhar Bheinn (another view we didn't see)!

Ironically, we had cloud, wind and rain for the otherwise entertaining summit ridge of Ladhar Bheinn (1020m; pr = larven = hoof hill). No views unfortunately, so it was back the same way to the Folach and then the 90 min stroll back to Inverie, Elaine’s first Munro safely in the bag.

On The way To The Pub!

As expected, Day 2 was cloudy and wet and we lay low in preparation for an assault on Meall Buidhe on the following morn. That morn broke bright and sunny and we set off up the Barrisdale track waiting for our hill to come into sight. A short while later 2 landrovers passed: a stalking party complete with cigar-smoking client away to slither in the wet grass in some remote corrie in pursuit of stalking glory. After a while we came to one of the landrovers parked untended on the track. We moved past and continued on our way; I could see no activity up on the hillside opposite the mountain we were aiming for. Then Elaine stopped and confessed she was uncomfortable with being in such close proximity to the ‘hunters on the hill’ and had no desire to go on. I knew it would be wrong to try and persuade her otherwise given the genuineness and seriousness of her concern so our short mountain day was over and we returned (safely) to Inverie.

On The Way Back From The Pub!

The next day we returned to Mallaig on the morning ferry all set for a night-stop in Fort William and a walk up Ben Nevis on which to end the week. However, on disembarking at the pier at Mallaig, Elaine declared a change of heart and announced she had decided to return to Knoydart for a few days, such had been the effect of the peninsula on her. Consequently, we parted company a day and a mountain early and went our own ways. Knoydart can have that effect on you; it is quite special. I’ve never lost a client there before though!

West Coast Sunset!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Ben Nevis - Rush Hour!

2011-07-23T22:41:00.008+01:00

Glen Nevis

Well obviously you don’t take the Tourist path up Ben Nevis on the 3rd Saturday of July in bright blue sunshine and expect to have the hill to yourself. We didn’t!

Bill & Adam Lead the Way

A veritable swarm of walkers, runners, charity teams, family groups, dogs and a lady in a burka accompanied Bill, Adam and myself up the UK’s highest chunk of real estate. They were still heading up late in the day as we were finishing – mainly Three Peaks challengers embarking on their 24hr quest.

Tower Ridge

The summit was predictably busy but a snow bunting proved to be a welcome distraction perched on top of the emergency shelter and tweeting his heart out. He’s probably quite a fat little snow bunting by now given the amount of discarded food I saw!

First Munro - Not a Bad Start!

Needless to say, wide expansive views were available all day long and the Ben was in an unusually benign mood – and probably will be for the next few days. Grab it whilst it’s hot!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Pyrenees 2011

2011-07-10T15:27:00.022+01:00

Cirque de Gavarnie

Last week saw a welcome return to the Pyrenees and a 5-day hut-to-hut trek criss-crossing the French/Spanish border. Eighteen months in the planning, the trip was largely the culminating expedition in a programme of walking trips and Duke of Edinburgh Award expeditions for 10 cadets of No 633 Air Training Corps Squadron. Helene, their boss, came along to help provide a mutually-beneficial interface between the quinquagenerian (try saying that after a glass of Merlot - or before, for that matter) mountain leader and his boisterous band of teenagers! Friend (and cadet instructor) Dave was there too, not only to provide invaluable help, but also to carry the sponsor's flags and provide a sonorous soundtrack to otherwise long silent nights in the mountain huts!!! The trek started and finished in probably the most-visited village in the Pyrenees: Gavarnie.

Mt Perdido (3355m)

The village stands at the end of a steep-sided valley at the foot of the Cirque de Gavarnie, a curved amphitheatre of towering rock, snow and ice down which drops the highest waterfall in Europe, the Grand Cascade. The trek is fully contained within the French Pyrenees and Spanish Ordesa National Parks which are both listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites. The primary geographical feature on the Spanish side is the Ordesa canyon, a 1000m-deep cleft of vertical limestone cliffs. Trekking between Gavarnie and the canyon involves a steep climb across the Pyrenean watershed, a line of 3000m mountains along which the French/Spanish border runs.

Le Grande Cascade

This watershed is spectacularly breached at the Breche de Roland, a 40m wide, 100m vertically-sided gap in the mountain wall and a key crossing point for trans-frontier trekking routes in the area. We also planned to climb the 3rd highest mountain in the Pyrenees, Mt Perdido (3355m) which completes this stunning collection of outstanding topographical features conveniently arranged within a 50Km circuit in this spectacular pocket of SW Europe.

Approaching the End of the Ordesa Canyon

Following a night in Toulouse we drove to Gavarnie under gloomy skies that promised little for the coming days. We needn't have worried, however, as the following morning dawned bright and clear and we set off in high spirits and under blue skies towards the first great landmark of our trek: the Cirque de Gavarnie. Mule trains still carry tourists between Gavarnie and the Cirque and their sight - and smell - are an enduring feature of this first hour! We left the tourist trail soon after the first of several cadet Magnum fixes at the strategically-placed Hotellerie du Cirque and walked across the floor of the Cirque towards the start of the day's climbing.

Up the Ladder to the Roof!

A steep path up rock terraces lifted us out of the Cirque and it fair took our breath away (almost literally for Selina) as we climbed in the afternoon sun up the Echelle des Sarradets (ladder of Sarradets). Half way up, some cretin (Fr = pratt) above us let loose a sizeable block of local geology which narrowly missed the whole party except for poor Rosie who coolly elbowed it out of the way to prevent further damage! Rosie being Rosie, nobody realised she'd been hit until she displayed a sizeable bruise some days later! A withering look and some blunt Anglo-Saxon advice at the guilty yoof didn't appear to have much effect on the guilty party but at least it made us (me) feel better! Eventually, the slope eased and our home for the night appeared: the Refuge de la Breche de Roland (or Sarradets Hut; 2587m).

The Refuge de la Breche de Roland (or Sarradets Hut).

Day 2 (much to Selina's relief) was downhill all the way, initially over rock down to the Port de Boucharo where we crossed into Spain, and then down the grassy Lapazosa valley to a sunny Valle de Bujaruelo and a stop for lunch at the picturesque Puente de Bujaruelo (Bujaruelo Bridge). Here we were entertained by watching 2 youth leaders cajoling their group of under-10s across the Ara river as well as our own gang failing miserably to master the art of balancing on a dry rock in a wet river (you know who you were...)!

Puente de Bujaruelo

An hour down a dusty track lay the beautifully-placed and well-appointed camping/hostel facility of Camping y Refugio Valle de Bujaruelo (1250m) where the joys of porcelain conveniences were once again reunited with our grateful youngsters! Funny old thing though: there's obviously something in the water hereabouts as once-exhausted international trekkers suddenly found the energy to rush around noisily playing hide and seek whilst more senior heads lay on comfortable beds and dreamt of silence!

An Atmospheric Ordesa Canyon

Day 3 started with more of the dusty track before joining the GR11 long-distance footpath at the Navarros Bridge at the entrance to the long-awaited Ordesa canyon. From here, soaring limestone cliffs filled the sky and shafts of sunlight cut through translucent clouds creating a real atmospheric ambience to enhance our journey up the canyon.

Mr Hillways and One Big Canyon!

A further hour took us to the road-head and tourist centre at the Pradera de Ordesa (Ordesa Meadow) where more Magnums were consumed before the cadets led us up the 600m switchback of the Senda de los Cazadores (hunter's path) to a lofty viewpoint high above the canyon floor with stunning views across - and along - the canyon. Half-way through the trek it was particularly pleasing to see Mat (one 't'), Ollie and Emma respond so well to the challenge of leadership and ensure everyone got up OK. There followed the long, but entertaining, traverse of the Ordesa canyon towards its head below the bulk of Mt Perdido largely unseen under its misty shroud.

The Head of the Ordesa Canyon

The excellent Faja de Pelay clings largely to the 1900m contour and is a superb rolling vantage point from which to observe the graceful crescent of the canyon. Gradually the canyon floor rose to meet us as we approached the head of the canyon at the Circo de Soaso and began the final 400m climb to our refuge for the next 2 nights: the Goriz Hut (2170m).

The Goriz Hut

Circling Griffon vultures seemed to have noticed the increasing (and inevitable) weariness of our gallant group and were no doubt eyeing up any stragglers! The typically crowded Goriz Hut proved to be a popular stop for us (apart from the toilets...ugh!) with friendly staff, warm sunshine and grassy surroundings on which to relax after all the walking. Even Chris found something he actually liked on the menu!

Spring Snow on Mt Perdido!

Day 4 was to have seen us stand triumphantly atop the summit cone of Mt Perdido (3355m), 3rd highest Pyrenean peak. Unfortunately, late spring snow had overstayed its welcome and proved to be initially difficult to cross and then dangerous so we limited ourselves to a snow-free viewpoint at 3050m/10,000' which we rightfully all agreed was a tremendous achievement in its own right. Helene led an emotional group hug and said some fine words, the team posed for numerous photographs in their expedition t-shirts (I didn't!!!) and Dave got the flags out again for more pics to send to the sponsors. We returned the same way to the hut, not too disappointed, and ready for our last day back to Gavarnie on the morrow.

Descending the Breche de Roland

Our last day proved to be quite a challenge one way or the other. The first part of our walk back to the Breche was trouble-free - a good path, great scenery and some chamois and griffon vultures for company. As we neared the Breche though, more snowfields resulted in a number of diversions and an interesting rock step gave everyone something to think about! It was a great learning experience for the team and everyone acquitted themselves admirably, particularly Ollie who became our 2nd falling rock casualty. He couldn't quite get his head to a weighted pass from Matt and took a nasty knock on the knee which caused him to say 'golly-gosh' a number of times!

Approaching the Breche

Eventually, we toiled through the spectacular gap of the Breche de Roland and returned to France - only to be confronted with yet another snowfield! Fortunately, this one came with a flattened path created by hundreds of fellow walkers and was safely - if slowly - negotiated by everyone, including Mat, whose walking lessons were showing clear signs of benefit! Below the snow we passed once again the Sarradets hut and continued down, down, down to the beautiful green valley of the Vallee des Pouey Aspe across the Plateau de Bellevue and down into Gavarnie where food, drink and porcelain awaited, probably in reverse order of importance!

The Gavarnie Valley

In all we trekked 41 miles/65 Km and climbed 19,000'/5100m over the 5 days. Well done everyone and a big thank you to Mat, Ollie, Emma, Chris, Chris, Jack, Matt, Jackson, Selina and Rosie for being such great company. And to Helene and Dave, where's my bloody t-shirt?!!! This particular trek can be walked in either direction but I would recommend our route as it splits up the hut stops and gives a better balanced route profile. In Gavarnie we stayed at the Hotel le Mabore http://www.lemarbore.com the best place in town for location, accommodation and friendly and effective service. Say Hi to Bernard and Roselyne if you’re passing through but watch out for Jack Daniels – especially if your name’s Helene!

Assynt & Coigach 2011 – Walking Through Time

2011-06-25T21:57:00.006+01:00

Suilven

Jennifer put down her fancy software analysis testing tool (sorry, hammer) and decided she should check out the far north-west of Scotland with a visit to the rather special mountain paradise that is Assynt & Coigach. The area immediately to the north of the bespoke fishing village/foreign tourist magnet of Ullapool boasts a unique combination of colour, light and scenery that comes with a generous array of ⅔ scale mountains. These model hills give a great return for the relatively modest amount of energy required to climb them. As an added bonus – and partly due to pesky weather re-thinks – we ventured a little further afield and also enjoyed good days on Ben Hope and mighty An Teallach.

The Coigach Hills

Ben More Coigach

First up, the usually reliable opening-day hill of Ben More Coigach (743m; big hill of Coigach) couldn’t shake off its cloak of orographic cloud and we traversed its impressive sandstone wall enshrouded in mist with only occasional – and tantalising – glimpses of the surrounding hills and the sea at our feet. A noisy, though welcome, golden plover and a young family of ptarmigan were the only warm-blooded creatures we saw all day, apart from each other – although at times the keen northerly wind threatened to make that a contentious point!

Cul Mor From Stac Pollaidh

Similar conditions on Day 2 gave us an almost identical experience on Cul Mor (849m; big back), the highest of the Coigach hills, but on this occasion, one with few views, no shadows and little reason to linger on the high tops.

Ben Hope

Come Day 3 and we started to turn things around. A planned attempt on Suilven was soon dismissed as cloud and rain made driving, let alone walking, difficult! Jennifer had already decided that Scotland’s most northerly Munro deserved her close attention and so we duly ventured north to the end of the known world and a 3hr drive brought us to the foot of this fine peak. It never takes long to climb Ben Hope. A good path, no discernible walk-in and a summit that sits just over 3Km from the start point ensure you can normally complete the ascent in under 2hrs. Some begin (and were doing so today) from Alltnacaillich farm further up the glen. Although longer, this route gives an enjoyable traverse along the crest of the amphibolite sill of Leitir Mhuiseil that leads to the mountain’s southern ridge. Both routes then converge and climb steadily above the mountain’s steep western flanks until the small flat summit is reached: Ben Hope (927m; hill of the bay). Remember to seek out the trig point though as it is easy to mistake the small pile of stones that mark the end of the climbing for the summit. It’s one hell of a distance to travel to make that mistake (and I’d have never heard the end of it…)!

Ben Hope - The Ascent Route

As if the mountain day wasn’t memorable enough, the long journey home was greatly enhanced by the sight of a snipe bursting from the verge-side followed a few miles later by some close formation flying by a great spotted woodpecker! And just when you thought it couldn’t get any better, we had that amazing first sight of Suilven from Strath Oykel – a view that never palls.

Stac Pollaidh

This diminutive, perky and pert little peak (try saying that after your 2nd single malt) never ceases to provide a half day’s entertainment. At last, we got our first cloudless summit and a bit of sun to warm the rock as we scrambled along, over and around the sandstone pinnacles that form the rapidly eroding summit crest of this model mountain. Jennifer proved that steady concentration and a few deep breaths were all that was needed to tackle the most difficult problems. She also demonstrated a commendable lack of hesitation in nimbly negotiating the final ‘difficult step’ that leads to the summit cairn at the western end of the kilometre-long summit ridge.

Jennifer in Her (New) Element!

We had the summit to ourselves and did it justice by remaining there for a good half-hour mesmerised by the amazing panoramic view this gem of a hill provides: Stac Pollaidh (612m; steep rock at the pool). We returned the same way (you don’t have much choice) and took time to visit the far eastern end of the summit ridge which is slightly less eroded than the remainder of the crest. Finally, we begrudgingly descended around the back of the hill thereby ensuring we covered just about all the angles of this fine peak. As always, this was a fun day!

Suilven

Suilven From Elphin

After a long absence, Suilven finally lifted her petticoats for me again and reminded me why this masterpiece of mountain architecture will always repay the long drive and walk-in (not to mention walk-out)! We started from close by Glencanisp Lodge and followed the excellent path/track past Suileag bothy (an hour’s walking, and unseen from the path), to the small wooden bridge (1½ hrs) and thence across country to the base of the climb up the Bealach Mor (2½ hs). Patience and a steady pace will bring you to each landmark in turn and there is no point in rushing – save some energy not only for the climb, but also to enjoy Suilven's piece de resistance: the mountain's sublime summit ridge.

Suilven's Summit Ridge

This priceless – and only – weakness in the slopes of this battleship of a hill is the key to the climb. A clear, but steep, path (which won’t suit every software-testing analysist) eventually leads you to where you’ve been yearning to get for the past 3 hrs – the summit ridge of the finest peak in Assynt and a permanent resident of Scotland’s Top Ten: Suilven (the pillar). On this occasion, and with timing, choreography and stagecraft that I take full credit for, our arrival on the ridge was heralded by a majestic flypast by a golden eagle so close you could hear the airflow hissing over this sublime flier’s primary wing feathers. You couldn’t have scripted it!

Suilven From Glencanisp Lodge

A short walk along the ridge leads you to the mountain’s highest point, Caisteal Liath (731m; grey castle). As with Stac Pollaidh, this is a really special place and a spot to linger as your eyes gaze out over the ‘knockan and lochan’ landscape of the Inverpolly National Nature Reserve towards the blue shining waters of the Minch and the islands of the Outer Hebrides.

Suilven From Stac Pollaidh

Closer to home, the inselberg peaks of Assynt & Coigach stand their ground whilst back along the summit crest, Suilven’s eastern summits send an impressive wedge skywards and complete a spectacular picture show. Make sure you always save Suilven for a clear day; otherwise, little of what I have described will make sense. But as for that eagle, well I’m afraid that’s reserved for Hillways gold card holders!

An Teallach

Corrag Bhuidhe

Best day, best mountain: it was as simple as that! By common consent, this mighty castellated cathedral of Torridonian sandstone with quartzite trimmings is one of the 2 greatest mainland peaks in the UK and holds within its ramparts one of the 2 greatest corries in the land! As usual, we started from Corrie Hallie and walked down the road for 10 mins to the beginning of the path. As usual, it was raining. As usual, Jennifer was loving it!

Sail Liath Across Toll an Lochain

Half way up the climb and well into the imposing corrie of Glas Tholl, the weather cleared and stayed fair for the remainder of the day. A passing walker in running shoes and lycra shorts threatened to upset Jennifer’s equilibrium but she soon recovered when she realised she was stuck with me for the rest of the day! Three hours from the car we stood on top of the mountain’s highest point: Bidean a’ Ghlas Thuill (1062m; pinnacle of the grey-green hollow). The view from the summit trig point across the yawning depths of Toll an Lochain to Sgurr Fiona must be the single most impressive view from any UK mountain top and never fails to take your breath away (unless you do it on a cloudy day of course)! We paused to take it all in. I recommend you do likewise!

Sgurr Fiona From Bidean a’ Ghlas Thuill

It never seems to take very long to descend and re-ascend the connecting ridge to An Teallach’s 2nd Munro: Sgurr Fiona (1060m; white peak). This is probably due to the magnificence of the surroundings as much as the relatively short distance (1 km). Again, this is a magical spot from where countless mountains, islands and lochs can be viewed – not to mention the blue waters of both the Moray Firth to the east and The Minch to the west.

The View From Sgurr Fiona

Following a leisurely lunch, we (she) decided we would dispense with the traverse of the jaw-dropping leaning spire of Lord Berkeley’s Seat and the sandstone pinnacles of Corrag Bhuidhe. We opted instead for the narrow path that skirts the south-western slopes of the mountain. The path is no walk in the park though and care should be exercised – the drop may concentrate the mind of those not well-acquainted with airy sandstone terraces.

The Fisherfield Six From Sgurr Fiona

Eventually the path re-joined the ridgeline and we continued up and over Stob Cadha Gobhlach and Sail Liath before descending the tricky quartzite scree path that led us to Lochan na Bradhan. Everything started to happen quickly now and we were soon intercepting the track back to Corrie Hallie and the waiting car. Such an amazing day justified a truly special dining celebration and so it proved to be. Fish, chips and mushy peas never tasted better………!

Thanks to Jennifer for being such an enthusiastic companion on some of my favourite hills. It's off to the Pyrenees next week with a party of 12 - and a slightly different group dynamic! I love my job!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Skye 2011 - A Romp Around the Cuillin!

2011-06-10T17:50:00.020+01:00

All Smiles - Only 11 To Go!

This past week I have been helping out the good doctor (http://www.darrenmcaulay.com) guiding clients on the Black Cuillin of Skye. Whilst the weather was significantly better than on my previous trip last month, a relentless succession of depressions, fronts and troughs conspired to ensure a flexible approach to the daily programme!

Loch Coruisk

By the week’s end, all 12 Cuillin Munros had been climbed by at least some of the group including a full house on the west ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean and the Inaccessible Pinnacle!

Classic Skye Scrambling

Throughout the week, Fergus has been regaling us with his full repertoire of...err...jokes, Duncan has been reeling off his various club memberships and demonstrating the virtues of a healthy lifestyle, Lynn has been chatting away (and occasionally head-butting the gabbro) and Julie has been trying to forget she’s an overworked vet!

Am Basteir

Subjects discussed included the relative merits of adding a third lane to the M8; whether boiled potatoes taste better unpeeled; just how many apples can one man eat and what colour of a mountain guide’s trousers most appeals to a female veterinary surgeon!

Sgurr nan Gillean From Am Basteir

Throughout the week, Darren was his usual cool, efficient self, tying knots and stuff and pretending he wasn’t interested in the louseworts. As for myself, I trailed dutifully behind, did what I was told, removed bits of climbing gear and, like the rest of the party, listened to Fergus……..

Me & the Doc!

Here are some pictorial highlights of the week showing what we got up (and down) to!

Lynn Starts Up the In Pinn

Half-Way Up The In Pinn

Julie Contemplating the Colour of Mountain Guides' Trousers...

Duncan Abseils Off the In Pinn

Climbing the Difficult Step on Am Basteir

Evening Rainbow On Loch Harport

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

The Far North

2011-06-04T14:47:00.014+01:00

Quinag & Loch Assynt From Conival

Having been well and truly flushed out of Skye, I travelled north up the Ullapool road to join Pete and Jackie for some hills of an altogether different hue! The main aim of the week were the Fisherfield Six – a remote and inconvenient clutch of 6 Munros far from roads, settlements and most significantly of all as it turned out, bridges! There a number of other mountains in the far north to be climbed first though……

A Study in Grey Skies, Windswept Summit & Gore-tex!

Ben Klibreck

What a squelchathon this mountain proved to be! Every time I climb it, I vow never to return. Fate (and Pete) brought me back for another look – just in case I was being unduly pessimistic. I wasn’t! The water in the River Vagastie was high so there was to be no convenient crossing at the usual start point close to Spot Height 176. Instead, we parked a mile further up the glen and crossed the burn at the footbridge near Vagastie. Whilst this gave us a dry crossing of the river, it also introduced an additional 4 miles of soft, squelchy bog to trudge across through water-logged ground, over flooded burns and around lochs before we gained the higher ground.

Ben Klibreck

The short sharp ascent of A'Chioch seemed almost welcome after the tiring bog-plod. This took us up on to the good path (the first, and only, one of the day!) that follows the ridge that leads quickly to the fine summit cone of the mountain: Ben Klibreck (962m; hill of the speckled cliff). A small group of ptarmigan provided a colourful diversion whilst the plaintive wail of a golden plover seemed an appropriate soundtrack to the empty lands that surround this isolated Munro. Our relief at reaching the summit was tempered by the knowledge that we would need to retreat the same way all the way back to the car. And that's just what we did!

Man of Action - Pete Conquers Mother Nature!

I'm sorry to sound so negative about Klibreck. It has a fine airy ridge, a graceful summit cone and an isolated position that makes it conspicuous for many miles around thereby demanding the attention of hillwalkers. If it just wasn't surrounded by so much wetness....

Ben More Assynt & Conival

Conival From Ben More Assynt

These 2 big mountains are the only Munros in Assynt and are distinguished by their pale quartzite colour and peri-glacial boulderfield that litters their 2 summits and the intervening ridge. Start from the obvious car park at Inchnadamph and locate the not-so-obvious start to the walk by walking along the A837 for 300 yds and turning right once across the bridge over the River Traligill. A track leads to Glenbain cottage before becoming a path that leads up the limestone cleft of Gleann Dubh (black glen).

Ben More Assynt From Conival

Quite a few folk (not all of them quite sure of where they were going!) were taking advantage of the drier weather as we climbed steadily up the boggy path to the bealach that gives access to Conival’s north ridge. Here the boulder-hopping starts although the path is still good and expansive views open out in all directions. Westwards, there are great views of the distinctive monoliths of Assynt & Coigach although it is the closer quartzite-covered hills either side of Gleann Dubh that catch the eye. Eastwards, Ben More Assynt is now clearly in view, together with the intervening ridge and expansive views of the wastelands of Sutherland open out. You can even see dear old Ben Klibreck! A big cairn marks the summit of Conival (987m; adjoining hill).

The Hills of Coigach From Ben More Assynt

It can take up to an hour to traverse the ridge across to Ben More Assynt, particularly when wet. The slippery quartzite boulders are here because these 2 high tops were left exposed 40m above the top of the glaciers in the last ice age. This left the quartzite exposed to the elements which shattered the rock into boulders that the ice left behind. Lower summits in the area have been largely swept clean by the glaciers that covered them. There are a few intervening ups and downs before you finally secure your 2nd summit of the day – it’s the northerly of the 2 rockpiles that adorn this highest summit for miles around: Ben More Assynt (998m; big hill of Assynt).

Conival From Gleann Dubh

If you really can't face returning back over Conival, then it's probably safer cutting the corner off to the north, into Coire a'Mhadaidh (corrie of the foxes), rather than the steep, slippery southern slopes surrounding the Dubh Loch Mor (big black loch). We did the former and it definitely saved time; be careful to pick the right line through the scree though!

The Fisherfield Si
x

Strath na Sealga

High rainfall, a huge water catchment area and a distinct lack of bridges conspired to thwart our plans to tackle the Fisherfield 6. Instead, we cycled in from Corrie Hallie to the north by way of a reconnaissance in preparation for a return later in the summer. We left the bikes soon after the (very) rough track starts to descend into Strath na Sealga and walked down and along the fast flowing river eyeing likely crossing points and route options.

Beinn Dearg Mor

The fording points I’d used before were OK but we really only found one place where it was safe to cross – and then only by removing boots, socks and trousers! Ironically, it turned out to be a beautiful, warm and sunny day unspoilt by midges and with only the occasional sandpiper for company. We determined to return another time, probably with a tent, with the intention of completing all 6 in one day as I have done previously. It would have been an excellent day for An Teallach whose majestic sandstone ramparts adorned the view for much of the day.

A Bridge Too Far (No Bridge Actually)!

Glen Strathfarrar

As compensation for Pete for having missed out on Fisherfield, I suggested we drive around to beautiful Strathfarrar, west of Inverness, where 4 Munros form the northern line of a whole series of big mountains that surround the ‘great glens’ of Strathfarrar, Cannich and Affric. Mountain days here tend to be long and memorable and should be a highlight of any Munroist’s experience.

Carn nan Gobhar & Sgurr a' Choire Ghlais

Great spotted woodpeckers darted in front of the car as we drove up the glen (note the restricted opening times of the locked gate that gives access to the glen). Other sources recommend doing the route from east-to-west but I have always preferred west-to-east. The initial climb is much easier up a good stalkers’ path and the mountains get lower a the day progresses - no contest!

The Strathfarrar Ridge From Sgurr a' Choire Ghlais

We duly traversed the 4 Munros and 2 Tops linked, for the most part, by a classic ridge that twists and turns above a series of steep-sided north-facing corries. Everyone else seemed to have opted for the ‘book route’ and passed us going the other way. For us, a fine stalkers’ path carried us almost effortlessly and pretty swiftly up to Sgurr Fuar-thuill (1049m; peak of the cold hollow) from where easy ridge walking led to the highest and most impressive peak of the range, Sgurr a’ Choire Ghlais (1083m; peak of the grey-green corrie). A steep descent leads to the boulder-strewn hump of Carn nan Gobhar (992m; hill of the goats) from where easy slopes lead to a sharp little defile and equally easy slopes on the other side lead directly to the undistinguished summit of Sgurr na Ruaidhe (993m; peak of the redness).

How Many Summit Cairns Does One Hill Need?

A squelchy descent over grassy slopes deposited us on the rough path that leads out of Coire Mhuillidh and back down to the road where Jackie was waiting conveniently for us. We really didn’t need to trek the 6Km back up the tarmac to the start point - no matter how pretty Glen Strathfarrar undoubtedly is!

Can I Have a Day Off Now Please...?

Skye 2011 - Payback Time!

2011-05-28T20:40:00.018+01:00

Sgurr nan Gillean & Am Basteir

Am Basteir & Bruach na Frithe

Following the dismal showing in Kintail earlier in the week, I’ve now returned to Skye hoping for a return to the balmy sun-kissed conditions we had at the start of the month. Forget it!

The Basteir Gorge

The NW Highlands are currently experiencing atrocious weather as an endless string of deep depressions scream in from the Atlantic whipping up winds of 100kts and rain enough to please the driest garden in SE England! In these conditions, you have to grab what you can and be prepared to fight to place your feet on any Scottish summit, let alone the challenging pinnacles of the Black Cuillin. Indeed, most of the Skye Ridge is currently off-limits and most sensible self-respecting folk will just give up and go home to their stamp collections. Not so us though!

Despite their bad press, ex-RBS bankers are made of stern stuff and have a tough strip of metal running through them (that they probably get from their banknotes)! Approaching the end of their Munro quest, Richard, Jim and Luigie were prepared to sit out the worst of the weather and try for their last 3 Cuillin Munros whenever the chances of success rose above 50%.

The Northern Cuillin

First off was an attempt on Am Basteir and Bruach na Frithe on what looked like a half-reasonable day (i.e. one where you could actually stand when you got out of the car)! We gamely trooped off from the Sligachan Hotel towards the dark brooding shapes of the northern Cuillin prepared at least to give them a go. Jim couldn’t find his gloves but was good enough to wait until I’d unpacked my rucksack to give him my spare pair before remembering where his were (his son Mark was always less trouble)! Apart from the odd hosing down with heavy showers, nothing stopped us gaining the ridge-line below our first peak (not even Richard’s cruel riposte to my rather interesting chat about geological landforms which he preferred to classify as rocky lumps)! Wet rock and increasing wind made for a challenging but successful snake up the thin flake of Am Basteir’s east ridge and after circumventing the ‘difficult step’ we fought our way to bedraggled glory and stood on (or clung to) the summit of Am Basteir (935m; the executioner).

Am Basteir

This not being a time or place to linger long, we smartly retraced our steps down into Coire Basteir and fought our way westwards in increasingly dire conditions to the rather more straightforward summit of Bruach na Frithe (958m; slope of the forest). Once again, there was nothing here to suggest loitering so we descended into Fionn Choire for the long march home. Only it wasn’t quite that straightforward...

Several hours of persistent rain had made its mark on water levels and everywhere, water was running off the hillsides. Burns became raging torrents, trickles became significant watercourses and any flat bog started growing lochans! By the time we reached the Allt Dearg Mor (big red stream) it was impossible even to contemplate crossing. Unfortunately, returning to the Sligachan on the uphill side of this now thundering torrent forced us into having to cross several other enlarged burns, saturated bogs and impromptu lochans before we reached the main Sligachan path which itself was beginning to disappear under water!

Water, Water Everywhere...

Stayed in bed today!

Sgurr nan Gillean

Sgurr nan Gillean & Am Basteir

We took advantage of a wee weather window this morning to climb Sgurr nan Gillean. We traipsed up into Coire Riabhach and up on to the mountain’s SE ridge following the so-called Tourist Route. There was little wind and only the occasional shower. Jim remembered where his gloves were! The rock was wet but apart from taking it very carefully (and using our bums a lot when the rock looked dodgy) no serious problems were encountered and after a little over 3hrs we gained the cloud-enshrouded summit of Sgurr nan Gillean (965m; peak of the young men).

Sgurr nan Gillean

As expected, the descent and walk out were undertaken in increasingly heavier rain as our morning weather window came to a dramatic and unequivocal end. We trudged home, entertaining each other with really interesting quiz questions and thoughts of whisky, hot baths and dry clothes.

I think it’s going to rain tomorrow……

Sgurr Mhic Choinnich

Approaching Coire Lagan

Jackie and Charles sold their cottage, gave away their children and drove all the way up from Edinburgh just to climb their penultimate Cuillin Munro. The least I could do was ignore the apocalyptical weather, slip on the old gore-tex and guide them to their goal.

Loch Coire Lagan

At least it promised to be a shorter day than of late so it was with some energy and enthusiasm that we left the water’s edge at the Glenbrittle campsite and walked up into Coire Lagan. The mountains were invisible behind their grey cloak of stratus as we climbed, well-trussed up against a peppering of short sharp showers of hard rain. After reaching Loch Coire Lagan, the serious climbing started. We moved up and around the edge of the An Stac screes until the ridge-line came into view - the benevolent wind and cessation of rain suggesting the summit was within our grasp. We celebrated impending success with some outstanding hot Thai chicken soup which Jackie (sorry, St Jackie) produced from her rucksack. There followed 40 mins of cautious, deliberate ridge-straggling (mainly on our bums) over very slippery basalt until the diminutive summit cairn of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich (948m; McKenzies’s Peak) was ours. Top effort!

Sgurr Mhic Choinnich

We re-traced our ‘steps’ back along the ridge and descended the same way to the lochan. The rain kept off until, as it always does, it returned with a vengeance 10 mins from the car. Let’s face it, getting home bone dry just wouldn’t have been manly now would it………?

Day off tomorrow; off to Ullapool to try some different hills. Maybe a change in location will produce nicer weather…….? I’ll get back to you on that!

Afternoon Brightness on Loch Brittle

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Kintail – Blown Away!

2011-05-24T20:02:00.004+01:00

Best (And Only) View of the Week!

Just a brief entry to record that the expected Munro haul planned for Kintail this week didn’t quite materialise due to horrendous weather, dangerous conditions and the absence of a client who sensibly decided that discretion was (and still is) the better part of valour! We’re going to try again in September; meanwhile, here’s a couple of pretty photos to prove I was actually here sheltering whilst I counted the storms passing overhead!

Eilean Donan Castle About to Float Away!

Skye 2011 - Black Cuillin/Blue Sky

2011-05-02T21:54:00.003+01:00

Sgurr nan Gillean From Sligachan

Black and blue were the only colours in town last week on the not-so-Misty Isle. Yes, the grass on the lower slopes is slowly turning green, a yellow sun ignited the landscape (literally, as it turned out in some parts) and a blue-green sea shimmered forever all around. However, it was the black gabbro of the Skye Ridge and the unbelievable blue of the Hebridean sky that predominated hour after hour as we scrambled, tip-toed and heaved ourselves over the UK’s finest mountain range.

Bla Bheinn & Loch Slapin

Bla Bheinn

This is always a good one to start with. A straightforward Scottish mountain complete with a short (but interesting) walk-in, towering (but avoidable) cliffs and a great (but great) view of the main Cuillin ridge a few miles to the west. As with all Cuillin summits, the climb starts from sea level from a much needed new car park on the shores of Loch Slapin.

The Skye Ridge From Bla Bheinn

The path follows the north bank of the Allt na Dunaiche and up into grassy Coire Uaigneich before climbing mixed ground up onto the rock-strewn summit of Bla Bheinn (928m; blue hill). Today – as in all the days that followed – the sun shone, the sky quickly dispatching any small cloud that dared to appear and the views just kept coming. We traversed across to the south summit and descended the tricky gravelly path back down into the corrie. There was even time for some sublime sunbathing.

Sgurr nan Gillean

For many, this is Skye’s finest peak and it is hard to argue the point. This graceful soaring rock cone sends down 3 sharp ridges from its perfect summit high above the surrounding glens and in clear view (on a good day) of the strategically-placed Sligachan Hotel. Such an aloof position doesn’t come without a hitch – the long walk-in from the ‘Slig’ can seem interminable, particularly on the descent when the white smudge of the hotel can appear to be getting no closer tired footstep after tired footstep!

Scrambling on Sgurr nan Gillean's South-East Ridge

This is a small price to pay though for attaining such a grand peak which is guaranteed to excite in the higher reaches of whatever ridge you take. For the hillwalker, this will generally be the ‘tourist route’ that follows the excellent path south from the Slig and into Coire Riabhach. The real climbing starts out of this corrie and up onto the mountain’s south-east ridge from where you will hopefully be able to see the whole Cuillin Ridge across wide Harta Corrie. Once again, sun and sky accompanied us as we turned right and climbed up the ever-steepening and narrowing ridge towards the summit.

Am Basteir & Bruach na Frithe From Sgurr nan Gillean

The scrambling is exposed in places and it is not a place for the faint-hearted; but the rewards are great and sooner than expected, the typically small summit cairn (Cuillin summits are too tiny for big cairns!) is yours and you too can by king for the day on Sgurr nan Gillean (964m; peak of the young men). We descended the same way (as you generally do on Gillean) and celebrated with a leisurely sunbathe/foot-soak beside the cooling waters of the Allt Dearg Beag. Eventually, the distant white smudge became the Sligachan hotel became Seamus’ Bar became a sweet pint of the Cuillin brewery’s finest! A grand day!

Marsco

Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, Sgurr Alasdair & Sgurr Mhic Choinnich

Day 3 and it was time to get serious with the Edinburgh bankers and Shauna from Canada all of whom were intent on burning up the miles for Munro glory! These 4 particular Munros, the ‘southern 4’ on the Skye Ridge, can be achieved in one very long day by a strong, fit and dedicated group with good weather and long daylight. We were fortunate to have all of these – in spades!

Sgurr nan Eag Above Coir a' Ghrunnda

We strode manfully out from the Glen Brittle campsite across the grass moors and eventually into the ice-scoured rock amphitheatre of Coir a’ Ghrunnda. Some minor entertainment was provided by the ringing rocks: boulders of peridotite, an igneous rock, that ring with a hollow tinny sound when struck with another rock (not your hand)! Then it was back to work with an ascent of the scree path and a short traverse to the day’s first (and easiest) summit, Sgurr nan Eag (924m; peak of the notches)
.

Sgurr Alasdair Above Coir a' Ghrunnda

Photos taken, we re-traced our steps a short way before following the ridge north past the rock tower of the Castle and scrambling up on to Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn (938m; black peak of the two mountains). Here, we diverted from the main ridge to take in our second Munro of the day. This lies tantalisingly off the main ridge, albeit via a tricky descent to the intervening bealach and an even trickier zig-zag ascent of Sgurr Dubh Mor (944m; big black peak). Photos taken, we re-traced our steps (are you getting the picture) and found ourselves once again on Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn. Here, a brief demonstration with compass and gabbro highlighted a 90° swing in the compass needle – interesting but not really a problem for navigation if you hold the compass away from the rock (like you should do)!

Smartly Up Sgurr Dubh Mor!

We continued north below the deep gash of the Thearlaich-Dubh (TD) Gap and towering gabbro cliffs of Sgurr Alasdair to the Sgumain cave before ‘shinning up’ a convenient chimney (which Richard struggled to say nice things about) and scrambling up to the very top of Skye, the sublime airy summit of Sgurr Alasdair (993m; Alexander's Peak). Heat haze precluded a distant view of far-off St Kilda but we couldn’t complain as the sun continued to reign supreme over far and wide. As we left the summit, a young Polish couple approached us, he full of excitement as he grasped the summit cairn, she full of something else as she held back 100m short of the summit and not very sure at all about continuing. Not for the first time, Mr Hillways came to the rescue and with the help of the others, coaxed, cajoled and escorted her for the final few steps she needed to make her day complete. Think we all learned a few new Polish words that day!

The View South From Sgurr Alasdair

Next up was the intricate roof-top traverse of Sgurr Thearlaich (973m; Charlie's Peak); difficult to get up, difficult to get down; but a real highlight if you have the nerve (and route-finding skills)! This puts you below King’s Chimney that leads up the vertical southern nose of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. There’s no need for mere mortals to get the rope out though as the mountain’s most essential feature, the wonderful highway in the sky that is Collie’s Ledge, provides a fabulous, if unlikely, escape route around the mountain’s western face high above Coire Lagan. The ledge leads all too quickly back on to the ridge line which is followed south to the tiny summit cairn of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich (948m; Mackenzie's Peak). In warm evening sunlight we traversed back north to the top of the An Stac screes which we shuffled down before giving up the mountains for the day and following the well-made path back to Glen Brittle.

All Smiles on Collie's Ridge!

This is probably the biggest single day you can have on the Skye ridge, apart from undertaking the complete traverse. Today, it took us 11 hrs which is typical. It’s a day that needs to be taken at a measured pace and with great care over route finding and foot placement. In many places, the implications of a slip could spoil your whole day, so go carefully, take the right equipment and if in any doubt, employ a guide.

Looking Back at Coire Lagan

MGB - Sgurr a'Mhadaidh, Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh & Sgurr na Banachdich

An easier day than the previous one (not hard to find), but still a solid 8 hrs of exposed rock scrambling and airy ups and downs. We started as is normal for these 3 peaks from the Glen Brittle youth hostel. After some very impressive and typically pretty parking from Jim we followed the good path up into Coire a’ Ghreadaidh. Grassy slopes lead to scree and a stiff climb below the distinctive gash of An Dorus (the door).

Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh From Sgurr a' Mhadaidh

We left the sacks and quickly scrambled up our first Munro, and the lowest one on the ridge, Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh (918m; peak of the fox). Back to An Dorus to retrieve the sacks and then it was sweetly up the difficult step on the other side past the Eag Dubh (black notch), around the seemingly impassable Wart and quickly on to the diminutive summit cairn of Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh (973m; peak of torment).

Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh

From here the fun really starts and one of the country’s most sensational and exposed scrambles leads to the Ghreadaidh’s southern summit before the ridge turns south-west and descends steeply to a rare thing in the Cuillin - a grassy bealach! On the way Richard renewed his acquaintance with a couple he’d met the previous day when helping the lady – with some delicacy - down a difficult step on Sgurr Dubh Mor. From here, we climbed past the Teeth and up and over Sgurr Thormaid (927m; Norman's Peak) before scrambling up the scree to our last peak of the trip, Sgurr na Banachdich (965m; peak of smallpox). A raven circled, encouraged no doubt by our somewhat bedraggled state but we left him to the discarded pistachio nut shells on the summit and descended wearily into Coir’ an Eich for one last sunny trudge back into Glen Brittle.

The Skye Ridge

Tired, exhausted and sweat-soaked we may have been; but the achievement of climbing 7 Cuillin peaks in just 2 days over rocky spires, sharp ridges and the greatest scrambles in the land could not be dented and we walked into the sunset with heads held high and hearts on fire. There was also Jim’s parking to admire.....

Happy Days!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Ben Ledi

2011-04-09T21:11:00.006+01:00

Ben Ledi From Callander

This distinctive Corbett presents a noble cone from much of the Forth valley due largely to it’s prominent position on the southern edge of the Highland boundary fault. Having driven past it a million times en route to bigger, higher, harder mountains further north, I chose this first real day of spring to finally park the car and put my feet on it. I should have done it years ago!

Approaching the Summit

An excellent path rises through the conifers from the car park at the southern end of Loch Lubnaig. After crossing a small but lively burn above the tree line, it turns south and climbs to the skyline intercepting the mountain’s long southern ridge at about 500m. Morning mist and clearing cloud precluded much in the way of grand views but a clearer day undoubtedly gives a great vista west across the Trossachs towards Ben Lomond and the Arrochar Alps. Similarly, to the east you will see across the upper Forth valley back towards Stirling and the Ochils whilst to the south, the Campsie Fells fill the horizon. The path now rises over a series of false summits, none of them particularly arduous until you get to the top of Ben Ledi (879m; hill of the slope).

The Crowded Summit

This being Saturday and a nice day to boot, it was no surprise to see many others on such an accessible hill. That said, the summit, when it arrived complete with cairn, memorial cross and OS trig point, was fair teeming with assorted couples, families and one pretty large walking club! No matter, the sun was out now and it was very warm – allowing shorts and t-shirt to be worn for the first time this year! You now have a view north to complement the other directional vistas. Ben Lui to the NW and the Ben Lawers group, Ben More and Stob Binnean to the NE, are particularly conspicuous.

Descending the North Ridge

North from the summit, an obvious ridge, marked with rusting fence posts, descends and winds its way for 6Km to another Corbett: Benvane. The first part of this ridge forms the corrie headwall of the unfortunately named Stank Glen (stank = Scots: watercourse or drain) and this offers the best way down with or without the inclusion of Benvane in your day. Today, after pausing (for quite some time) in the warm sun at the equally unfortunately named Lochan nan Corp (small loch of the dead), leaving Benvane for another day seemed entirely appropriate!

Ben Ledi From the Stank Glen

The key to locating the descent route is the bealach just south of the lochan. The bealach is also named after the dead, this being an old ‘coffin route’ along which the locals would carry their dead from Glen Finglas to St Bride’s Chapel on the shores of Loch Lubnaig. The descent route follows the Stank burn eastwards into the Stank Glen to pick up an excellent way-marked footpath that leads easily back down through the forest to the shores of Loch Lubnaig. The circuit is about 10Km long and would make a good short winter’s day or, perhaps much better, a long, warm summer stroll complete with several sunbathing stops!

A Fine Hill

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Climbing Again in the French Alps – Rock & Ice!

2011-03-10T11:49:00.003Z

La Meije (3984m)

Winter has returned to much of Scotland and shows no sign of relinquishing its persistent grip on the bens and glens - or even the lowlands, as this weekend has shown! So it was particularly welcome to get away to the French Alps again last week for some blue skies, warm sunshine and the occasional foray up assorted rock faces and frozen waterfalls!

Hot Rock

Naturally, appropriate time was set aside for copious sampling of local fromage et vin, pastis and tarteflette. Research also demanded that the afternoon temperature on the good doctor’s sun balcony be recorded at regular intervals. However, I did manage to overcome the insidious lethargy and malaise of dreamland to get dragged up some Grade V – VI rock climbs and a 30m frozen waterfall!

Cold Ice

Such were the consecutive days of unbroken sunshine and sublime warmth of the sun on my face, that the opportunities for off-piste skiing, ski touring and snowshoe plods were all quietly forsaken for the chance to lie in the sun and wonder what the poor people were doing.......!

Check out my plans for the coming summer at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Ben Nevis – A Winter Ascent

2011-02-26T21:42:00.001Z

This weekend saw a quick return to Fort William to introduce Philip from Holland to the delights of a Scottish winter mountain ascent. He decided to begin at the top and elected to make the mighty Ben his first conquest of a Scottish peak – and in winter! My Dutch was no match for Philip’s English (fortunately) and we only lost ourselves in translation once. Philip seemed unusually unimpressed when I told him that sea eagles could now be seen in Scotland. He thought I was talking about seagulls!

Sunshine in Glen Nevis

Following a milder – and wetter – week, the snow has receded up the mountain during the past week and the lower half of the mountain was clear. This enabled a relatively quick ascent to the Red Burn crossing and no real levels of snow were encountered until about 900m. The crampons came on soon after and the cloud came down to ensure a completely different atmosphere and ambience from the sun-lit glen below.

Approaching the Snowline

The summit arrived after 3¼hrs together with assorted climbers and walkers who were milling around as if waiting for the clearance that never quite came. A lone snow bunting provided added interest but it was not a place to linger long on this day. We headed down, breaking cloud half-way down the zig-zags and finished the day in warm sunshine and with maybe, just maybe, a slight hint of Spring in the air!!!

Spring is in the Air (Perhaps)!

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

Lochaber – Winter Skills

2011-02-18T21:16:00.004Z

View From the Ben!

The last week has been spent in the sometimes wild, often wintry, but always interesting mountains of Lochaber. This area of the West Highlands, based around the rather grim, if useful town of Fort William, is home to 4 of the 9 highest mountains in the UK, including the highest: Ben Nevis. It also hosts one of the most picturesque glens in the country: Glen Nevis, a major ski complex, many, many Munros and the stunning defile of Glen Coe. The height of the mountains and the advantage of mountain uplift from the Nevis Range gondola and chairlifts make this an excellent venue for winter skills and is an annual entry on the Hillways calendar. On this trip, Dave was returning for a refresher whilst Sue was trying her hand for the first time in the noble art of winter mountaineering!

Descending Ben Nevis

Whilst I wouldn’t normally start with the biggest day first, promising weather coupled with an unpromising forecast encouraged us to climb Ben Nevis on Day 1. We were not disappointed. A dry day with a high cloudbase and a generally kind wind enabled us to ascend the Tourist Route fairly easily, pausing to don crampons just above the half-way point, and continue to a summit wrapped in mist and deep in snow. There was no view from the top, but the clouds parted early in the descent to give us great views of the upper part of the mountain and a glimpse of the precipitous north face with its 600m/2000’ cliffs. The whole day took 7hrs, a creditable time given the conditions, and it gave us an ideal introduction to the week’s activities.

High Point of the Week!

Day 2 was dreicher than dreich with cloud, rain and snow filling the view out of the window to such an extent that a day in the classroom met will all-round approval! It proved to be time well-spent though; the passing horrors outside and frequent cups of exotic infusions (Sue) and tea (Dave) bearing witness to informed, entertaining and illuminating discourses from yours truly on everything from how to survive an avalanche to the origin of the Ordnance Survey! The relative merits of fish pie compared to steak casserole may also have crept in at some stage....!

Day 3 saw us ascending the Nevis Range gondola (enclosed) and chairlift (distinctly unenclosed) to over 900m up the northern flank of Aonach Mòr.

Tight Rope!

Shrouded in mist, we spent the next 5hrs inspecting the snow pack, peering over massive cornices, and striding off (as much as you can in soft snow) on compass bearings determined by Dave and Sue’s (very) recently acquired navigation skills! Much to their credit, and in near white-out conditions, they located the diminutive snow-covered pile of stones that does for the summit cairn of the UK’s 8th highest mountain: Aonach Mòr (big ridge; 1221m). We continued south for a further 1Km until the intimidating snow-girt cliffs of Aonach Beag loomed out of the mist. We roped up for the tricky steep ascent through ice-caked boulders and on to the UK’s 7th highest mountain: Aonach Beag (small ridge; 1234m). This fine mountain lacks any marker at all in winter other than a point on a snowy cone that you judge to be higher than the rest! I probably choose a different point each year!

Approaching Aonach Beag

The limited time available until the last gondola down forced a bit of a route march upon us for the return. However, we still found time to peer over the cornices above Coire an Lochan and enjoy stunning views over the Great Glen before removing crampons, stowing ice axes and descending serenely to the valley floor.

Day 4 started bright and sunny and promised clear conditions for a traverse of the westernmost Mamores. However, danger signs of troubled times ahead soon became evident as we looked up to see clouds flashing over the skyline and storms of spindrift swirling over the ridges.

Sue Mans Up!

Sure enough, as we climbed above the tree-line up the steep, awkward and snow-covered flank of Mullach nan Coirean’s north ridge, we began to be bombarded by gusty winds and eye-stinging spindrift! Progress became wearingly-slow and a decision to retire gracefully was as sensible as it was inevitable. Interestingly, a pair of climbers on an adjacent ridge whom we had been watching battling against the spindrift had clearly come to the same conclusion. Reassuringly, the Scottish Avalanche Information Service (SAIS) forecaster for Lochaber that day also commented in his daily blog http://saislochaber.blogspot.com/ on the number of parties returning early from Ben Nevis due to the difficult conditions.

Fresh Snow in Glen Nevis

Day 5 was spent at lower altitudes, walking up Glen Nevis to visit the ‘rites of passage’ 3-wire bridge and spending the afternoon practising micro-navigation skills above Fort William. Sue distinguished herself by deftly negotiating the bridge with great aplomb – no sign whatsoever of clenched fists (or anything else, for that matter)!

That Bridge!

We squelched over to get up close and personal to the always impressive Steall waterfall before returning back over the bridge. The micronav went very well during the afternoon with every insignificant contour line wiggle successfully located in the otherwise featureless bog!

Man on a Mission!

Day 6 saw bright sunshine, blue skies and cold, clear air. We took the Nevis Range gondola up to the top station on the northern flank of Aonach Mòr and practised various set pieces covering examination of the snow pack, snow belays and ice axe arrests. The latter provided welcome entertainment to the passing skiers and snowboarders against a backdrop of snow white peaks stretching away to the far north west and distant Kintail, Torridon and Skye.

Winter Skills

All in all, we enjoyed a full week of winter skills in an excellent location well suited to the winter mountaineer!

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

The Lake District – Mountain Leader (ML) Training

2011-02-03T16:52:00.017Z

Summer Mountain Leader Training

Memory-jarring early starts from opposite ends of the country brought Dave and I together in the Lake District this week for 3 days of summer mountain leader training prior to his ML assessment next month. The term ‘summer’ is a relative term at this time of year of course and so it proved as the full spectrum of UK February weather descended upon us and helped fully concentrate our minds!

Day 1: The Lion & The Lamb – Ropework Skills on Helm Crag

Hot-foot from the M6, we chose the model mountain of Helm Crag (405m) to practise some navigation, group management skills and ML ropework. Sitting modestly above Grasmere, this shapely wedge is a popular landmark with it’s distinctive summit rocks long ago christened the Lion & the Lamb.

Helm Crag

A good, well-marked path climbs comfortably up through bands of crags and on to closely-cropped grassy slopes that lead to the narrow, if short, summit ridge. A landslip has created a rocky trench above which 2 sets of rock pinnacles guard each end of the summit ridge; the southern formation earning the big cat/small sheep sobriquet when seen from the valley.

Helm Crag - Summit Rocks

The rocks provided an ideal spot for Dave to practise his deft rope skills sheltered from the biting wind. The entertainment was greatly enhanced by the surprising and impressive sight of a peregrine falcon flying strongly against the wind immediately above us before diving out of view! After expending his repertoire of direct and indirect belays, Italian hitches and abseil techniques, Dave pronounced himself competent. I agreed (naturally) and by way of some navigation legs, we duly returned to the valley floor via some conveniently placed ring contours and well-concealed ruins whilst discussing everything from access legislation to map scales!

Day 2: You’re Only As Good As Your Last Sheepfold!

Atrocious weather created the ideal conditions for Dave to get to grips with a day of micro-navigation: navigating short legs using map, compass and pacing. It is a key element of the summer ML syllabus and one that catches many folk out. You cannot practise it enough! Loughrigg Fell (335m), a scenic area of low hills, hummocks and miniature water features immediately above our base in Ambleside, proved to be an ideal location for our activities - particularly in the cloud.

Should be a Gate Somewhere Around Here....

During the course of this wild, wet and windy day, Dave successfully negotiated all that I (and the weather) could throw at him by way of insignificant contour shapes, sheepfolds and tiny tarns! This was no mean feat in appalling conditions and in a discipline requiring concentration, accuracy and excellent map-reading skills. He found every one of the chosen points and was still going strong when the mind of this observer had long ago turned to thoughts of steak and chips and a long, lazy glass of red........

Blencathra From High Rigg

Day 3: More Ropework; More Nav!

The final morning saw us in greatly changed weather with snow on the tops and a bitter wind blowing storm clouds our way. Again, relatively low ground provided all we needed – grassy hummocks, tiny water features and small crags. We chose High Rigg (355m) above the delightfully named St John's in the Vale. You don’t always need to go to the tops of the mountains to achieve your aims (which was just as well given this week’s weather)!

Storm Clouds Over Thirlmere

We beat the rain though, and consolidated all the previous days’ activities leaving Dave all set for the rigours of his ML assessment. He also managed to pick a likely looking spot for the family to go wild camping when they come back for their summer holiday – although I’m not sure if he’s actually told Paula yet............

Easedale

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

Pentland Hills – Kip Skipping!

2011-01-24T19:02:00.006Z

The Kips From Black Hill

My favourite amongst the shapely Pentland Hills is the distinctive conical ridge of West Kip (551m). Whilst the name derives from the Celtic word for pointed hill (caep) this miniature mountain alternates in appearance from being a sharp cone when viewed from either NE or SW, to a short flat-topped ridge (which is actually what it is) when seen from the NW or SE. The final approach to the hill, from whatever direction you choose, is guaranteed to be rewarding with steep grassy slopes rising to a delightful roof-top ridge wide enough for its traversing path but not much else! Notwithstanding these plaudits, West Kip is but one highlight of an excellent out-and-back walk from the evocatively named hamlet of Nine Mile Burn on the A702 Edinburgh – Biggar road. The spot is 9 old Scots miles from Edinburgh (about 11 miles in new money)!

West Kip From Monks Rig

This 11Km route follows clearly-marked or good quality paths throughout and loses nothing in forcing you to return via the outward route. My only problem earlier this week was the skin-stripping wind that came in off the North Sea and took no prisoners as it scoured these exposed tops! It really dominated the walk and at times impeded progress to the point of frustration – probably not helped by the absence of my gore-tex jacket! Nevertheless, it was – and is – a cracking wee walk and took just 3 hrs to traverse West and East Kip, Scald Law and South Black Hill before returning me, sand-blasted but fulfilled, to Nine Mile Burn!

West Kip From South Black Hill

From the car park opposite the line of cottages now mercifully by-passed from the speeding traffic, follow the signpost to Balerno, through the kissing gate. Follow the dry stane dyke around the field eventually crossing a stile on to the open grassy shoulder known as Monks Rig. On the way you pass the Font Stane, a shaped piece of local rock with a sculptured recess thought to be the base for a cross, now long gone. Coins in the recess are evidence that the age old tradition of making an offering at the cross continues to this day! This is the course of the old Monk’s Road between Newhall Monastery and Dunfermline Abbey. Continue over the flat top of Cap Law beside a distinctive clutch of wind-sculpted larches from where a scenic vista opens up.

East Kip, Scald Law & South Black Hill From Cap Law

Now you can see the shapely cone of West Kip and the rest of the day’s hills that encircle the hollow of Eastside Farm and its eponymous burn. Here, the wind really took hold and it was head down to the base of West Kip before the short, sharp pull up to the summit. This would normally be a great place to linger but not today! It was smartly down (as all descents from West Kip are) and then up and over East Kip (534m) before descending to Cross Sward, the grassy col between the Kips and the main Pentland ridge. From here, a clear path takes a rising traverse up to the Pentlands’ crowning summit, complete with white trig point and expansive views - Scald Law (579m).

The View From West Kip Along the Pentland Chain

Braced against the relentless wind I ran down to South Black Hill (563m) which is effectively the SW Top of Scald Law and is adorned by a pile of red trachyte stones arranged in a shallow circular retaining wall. It didn’t offer much shelter today so it was quickly back down to Cross Sward and over the Kips, running with the wind back over Cap Law and down to the merciful shelter of Nine Mile Burn and the waiting car!

West Kip

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

MLTA Workshop – Winter Mountaineering

2011-01-20T08:35:00.008Z

Twelve months on and it was back to Fort William for another Mountain Leader Training Association (MLTA) (www.mlta.co.uk) workshop with British Mountain Guide Tim Blakemore. Tim runs a series of workshops at this time of year on behalf of the MLTA aimed at instructing/refreshing mountain leaders on useful topics. Apart from the obvious benefit of such training, participants also receive points towards their continuing professional development (CPD) a newly-introduced requisite for maintaining one’s mountain qualifications.

This was just a one-day workshop but Tim still managed to get a lot across to our group of 6. The main aim was to explore the grey area between non-technical mountain leading and winter mountaineering. This entailed practice in leading clients on steep ground using ‘short roping’ techniques. The leader and followers are tied on to the same rope with the former taking any spare rope around his body in coils. He then controls the distance between himself and the No 2 by holding or releasing hand coils. This technique enables a group to move steadily over difficult terrain without set climbing pitches and fixed protection.

Needless to say, it was a typically cold, blustery January day that we climbed into the Nevis Range gondola for the ride up to the top station. The biting wind and occasional snow shower ensured we all remained tightly wrapped in gore-tex all day! The crampons came on soon after leaving the top station, together with helmets, harnesses and ice axes. Splitting into groups of 2 or 3 we spent the day examining the snowpack, leading each other up and down steep ‘gnarly’ ground and looking at various ice axe belays. There was some invaluable ropework for us non-climbers and some discussion on the effectiveness of ice axe arresting. The empty promise of a nice hot coffee (I forget from whom....) ensured we descended to the gondola station in plenty of time to beat the last ride down and a short de-brief saw us on our way before darkness.

A big thank you to Tim (http://www.northernmountainsport.co.uk) for giving up his nice French alpine apartment for the joys of Fort William so that we could fill in our knowledge gaps and improve our experience. He’ll be back next year, and so will I!

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

Pentland Hills and Winter Skills!

2010-12-23T23:01:00.014Z

Just 15 Minutes From Edinburgh!

Friend, bush craft expert and survival guru Nigel popped up for a few days before Christmas just in time to feel the full icy blast of our on-going winter. The idea was to practise some winter skills techniques and we were originally going to head for the Cairngorms where we knew snow would be guaranteed. Needless to say, these days if it’s snow you want, all you need do is open your front door! So it was last week and we forsook the dodgy drive up and down the A9 for the short trip to the Edinburgh city limits where we found all we needed on the steep northern slopes of Caerketton Hill at the north-eastern end of the Pentland Hills.

Grade 1 Ground - Pentlands Style!

Some of the approach lanes to the Pentlands have been difficult to negotiate during the snowy weather but the car park at Swanston has remained open and duly served as our starting point for each day’s activities. Within 10 mins of leaving the car we were ankle-deep in powder snow which overlay a hard icy base. Higher up we encountered some surface ice patches and areas of freshly created soft windslab. These contrasting snow conditions gave us just what we needed to rehearse a string of winter techniques including ice axe and crampon work, snow belays and avalanche assessment.

Nigel Busy Burying His Ice Axe

On leaving the summit of Caerketton Hill we came across stark evidence of nature at work. Amongst the myriad of footprints, ski and animal tracks in the soft snow, Nige was quick to spot – and identify - something different. A raptor, maybe a kestrel, had swooped down and taken a small rodent or something similar leaving a clear imprint of its wing feathers just at the point where the unfortunate prey’s tracks came to an abrupt and ominous end! Try clicking on the photograph to enlarge it and you should see the details.

A View to a Kill

On Day 2 we climbed straight to the base of one of the crags immediately below the summit of Caerketton Hill and took turns leading up a steep snow gulley that we had spotted the previous day. It was good to get the rope out; it proved particularly reassuring for the near-vertical ice field that we found at the top end of the gulley! In the absence of any recognised named climbs on this part of the gently rolling (!) Pentland Hills we christened it Supermarket Gulley. The previous day whilst surveying the view over Edinburgh we somehow got into an amazingly banal unbloke-ish exchange of views on the merits of different supermarkets! You can see quite a few from here!! It’s alright, I don’t expect you to understand - you had to be there!!!

Nigel Leads the Way up Supermarket Gulley

On Day 3, we climbed yet another steep gulley, topped Allermuir Hill and then finished off with some interesting micro-navigation looking for insignificant snow-covered hummocks, ring contours and stream beds using map, compass and pacing. All very enjoyable – and successful. In the end, we achieved everything we wanted to and Nigel left a happy and contented man. I suppose we did miss out on a night in a snowhole but when I suggested it all I could see of him was his back fast disappearing off in the general direction of the Swanston clubhouse. Beer and chips seemed to offer a more appetising alternative to a night in the snow! I ask you! Maybe next time Nige?

Tea O'Clock!

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

Arthur’s Seat – A First Winter Ascent!

2010-12-05T16:55:00.010Z

Arthur's Seat

Having spent most of the past week with a shovel in my hand constantly digging my way to the outside world, today it was time to get the winter gear out and enjoy a hill-walk in the snow. The distinctive volcanic mound of Arthur’s Seat (251m) can seem like the middle of the country (as opposed to the middle of Edinburgh) at the best of times. Cover it with ice and a healthy foot or two of snow and you very much are a million miles away from the surrounding streets of the city. Blue skies, clear air and bright sunshine completed the magical mix which ensured a superb couple of hours of winter walking.

Looking Across Salisbury Crags to Edinburgh

Such is the amount of snow that has fallen in these parts during the past 7 days, it was hardly surprising to see an avalanche warning issued for this wee hill a couple of days ago. Come the weekend though and the snow has consolidated pretty well and there’s a greater danger from snow falling from high rooftops in the city than on the steep slopes of Arthur’s Seat. The paths are all compacted snow now which is icy enough to make progress slow and thoughtful. The summit rocks are passable with care but if you have crampons and an ice axe, you will certainly benefit from using them. Avoid the steeper paths on the way down and try and stay on the softer snow to remain upright.

The Summit

On the lower slopes, sledgers and skiers mingled with walkers, dogs and children all savouring the wonderful winter experience that is a Sunday stroll on sun-kissed snow! Don’t worry if you didn’t get out this weekend, something tells me there will be many more opportunities before we get to see our back lawns again!

Global Warming On Hold!

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

The Seven Hills of Edinburgh

2010-11-10T21:08:00.011Z

Arthur's Seat From the Braid Hills

By common convention, the Seven Hills of Edinburgh are a septet of volcanic plugs dispersed around this fine city all of which give great views in all directions. The highest is less than 1000’ above sea level and the lowest a mere 350’ high. Once a year, on the 3rd Saturday in June, a combined race/challenge is held in which hardened runners and keen walkers can undertake a rapid run or walk of all 7 hills (last year’s winning time was 1 hr 40 mins)! Alternatively, they can be climbed at a more leisurely pace, either singly, or in convenient clutches of two or more. But at least once, they deserve to be tackled in one circuitous walk which combines the city centre, suburban Edinburgh and the hills themselves.

Castle Rock From Calton Hill

Today was a dazzling autumnal day in the city, cold but cloudless and an ideal opportunity to squeeze the complete round into the ever-shortening days. An 0845 start from Festival Square in the heart of the city seemed as convenient a start/finish point as any and a brisk walk through the cold morning air led to Princes St Gardens and a rapid zig-zag up the side of Castle Rock to the Edinburgh Castle esplanade. A quick logic check suggested that the purist approach to actually standing on all 7 summits didn’t quite justify the £12 entrance fee to the castle so the esplanade was deemed to represent the high point of Castle Rock (131m) for the day and it was on rapidly to hill number 2!

Calton Hill

A descent of the Mound followed by a quick passage of Princes St Gardens past Waverley Station and on to the eastern end of Princes St led quickly to the foot of Calton Hill (108m). This diminutive lump nevertheless commands impressive views across Edinburgh and out across the Forth all the way to the southern Highlands where snow was clearly visible. The hill is decorated with various monuments, follies and towers, not all of them finished (and never will be!) that give added interest. However, it is the views you will remember and Calton Hill gives great reward for the minimal effort required to conquer it!

Arthur's Seat

The next hill – the highest of the seven - does, however, require some effort to climb it. Arthur’s Seat is a sizeable lump of grass and rock to find in the middle of a capital city and it certainly repays repeat visits. These first 3 summits are grouped conveniently close together and it didn’t take long to descend from Calton Hill, scamper past the architectural experiment and financial folly that is the Scottish parliament building and the far more impressive – and timeless – Palace of Holyrood before the climbing started again. A number of options present themselves but I recommend traversing the top of the impressive Salisbury Crags (take care) and then follow the excellent path up to the white trig point that crowns the summit of Arthur’s Seat (251m). Obviously, the views excel in every direction and you can see all the other Edinburgh hills from here quite clearly. It was still relatively early and given the time of year there were very few other folk about. In summer you can expect to find quite a crowd up here!

Arthur's Seat From Blackford Hill

I descended quite steeply to the western gate of Holyrood Park and walked past the Royal Commonwealth Pool before heading south down through the leafy streets of Newington and a welcome coffee break. You don’t need to carry your lunch (or much else for that matter) on this city walk! Blackford Hill (164m) marks the northernmost point of a large open area in the south of the city and is criss-crossed by a number of paths that snake their way through the grass and gorse. The hill’s flanks are home to the Royal Observatory, a golf course and Blackford Pond. To the south, the slopes fall steeply to the delightful wooded glade of the Braid Burn and the Hermitage of Braid beyond which lay my next objective, the Braid Hills. There is much to see here and it’s worth returning when you have more time to explore the area.

Blackford Hill

Today though, it was down from Blackford Hill, across the conveniently placed footbridge over the Braid Burn and along the quaintly named Lang Linn Path that leads up to busy Braid Hills Drive. This I crossed picking my way cautiously up through the public golf course to the trig point and view indicator that crown the highest point of the Braid Hills (213m). Suddenly, the Pentland Hills seemed very close (they were) and they served as a timely reminder of just how far I’d walked since leaving the city centre!

The Craiglockhart Hills From Braid Hills

From the summit of Braid Hills, it was westwards down through Morningside and across to the 2 hills of Craiglockhart. Unfortunately, the higher of these twins (Wester Craiglockhart Hill; 175m) is private property (I ask you!) and has no public access. So you have to make do with Easter Craiglockhart Hill (157m) which poses no access difficulties and is attained with minimal effort. You share much of the 2 hills with the Merchants of Edinburgh Golf Club and Napier University so no wonder there are access issues!

Corstorphine Hill

The sun was starting to sink in the south-western sky now and it would be a rush to gain the last hill before darkness. However, I could clearly see Corstorphine Hill a few short kilometres away and I wasn’t going to lose my last hill having come so far! Unfortunately, to get there you need to thread your way around the south-western suburbs of the city across busy streets, under railway lines past a prison and various industrial units before you get to the wooded slopes of the final summit. The summit of Corstorphine Hill (162m) lies at the southern end of a wooded ridge and is marked by the dark shape of Clermiston Tower. Much of the southern flank of the hill is shared with Edinburgh Zoo. I got to the top just after sunset, some 7 hrs after leaving Castle Rock and it got dark almost immediately. Whilst Corstorphine Hill marked the end of my particular conquest of the Seven Hills, personal pride dictated that it was only right to walk back to my start point in Festival Square. At this time of year, this entailed a long walk under the streetlights through leafy Murrayfield and Ravelston to Dean Village and eventually back to Princes St and Festival Square.

Clermiston Tower

The complete round, taken at a steady pace and including a generous coffee/lunch stop, was 19 miles/27 Km long and took 8 hr 30 min to complete. Go do it! I may just enter the race next June...

Climbing in France

2010-10-20T18:53:00.005+01:00

As the sun heads south for winter and the days start shortening I just managed to squeeze a few days with the rock god of the Ecrins National Park in the French Alps. Following the previous week’s exertions tramping over the length and breadth of the Cairngorms, more hill-walking was not high on the agenda. Instead, and much to the good doctor’s pleasure, we close to get up close and personal to some French rock.

First up was a local via ferrata (Italian = iron road), a system of ladders, rungs and cables that are run up vertical rock faces to enable mere mortals like me to put there soft pink bodies where they have no earthly right to be! They were developed by the Italian army to help wage war against their Austrian counterparts in the South Tyrol, particularly the Dolomites, on the Austrian/Italian border (a moveable boundary for some of the 20th Century)! The doctor knew of a suitable local cliff to start on, it’s only disadvantage being it’s position on the shadowy side of the valley. At this time of year you need all the warmth of the sun you can get. Having donned our via ferrata climbing harnesses and strained our necks peering up at our stairway to heaven, I followed the man up the ironwork pretending I wasn’t at all phased by the rapidly disappearing valley floor below my feet! The GR54 long distance footpath runs close to here but there were no witnesses to my deft climbing skills alas! Half way up we changed over and I was given the honour of leading us out into the bright (and, thankfully, warm) sunshine! That was quite enough for one day so it was back to the car and off to find a restaurant so I could start boring folk with my tales of derring do high on a sheer cliff face.

A day and autumn storm or two later, the sun came out again and the doctor decided it was time to return to the rock, but this time without any accompanying ironwork! So we drove south and found a suitable (completely hold-less), sun-kissed (hot), and accessible (5 mins walk from the car) crag on which to spend the afternoon posing for photographs. There followed a series of climbs of French Grade 4/5 standard which typically took the good doctor no more than 5 mins and yours truly about half-an-hour to complete! It was all very enjoyable until I lost the use of my arms through chronic fatigue having used them to cling to the rock all afternoon!

It was the last of the sun – and the heat – for the week, and probably the year. It certainly was for the doc who is about to leave for his 3 months stint on the ice of Antarctica – which was almost the same amount of time we experienced snow for in much of Scotland last winter. What will this winter bring? Better days, that’s for sure...

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

The Cairngorms in Autumn – The Cairngorm 4000ers

2010-10-11T23:15:00.004+01:00

The High Peaks of the Western Cairngorms

There are 9 separate mountains accorded Munro status in Scotland above 4000’. Five of these lie within the Cairngorms massif and they constitute 5 of the 6 highest mountains in the British Isles. Because Pete needed to do them and because Andy didn’t stop me, I suggested doing them all in one day (and half of the night as it transpired)! The ensuing mountain marathon proved many things: the wisdom of carrying head-torches at all times, the perils of combining big hands with small maps and just because someone says they have a good idea it doesn’t mean you have to do it!

The Kincardine Hills From the Northern Corries of the Cairngorms

But hey, what else was there to do? The brilliant autumnal weather was continuing and we had enjoyed the previous day above Glen Feshie so we went for it. And what an endurance test it proved to be – 14 hrs of walking, climbing and stumbling over the highest upland massif in the land. We’ll be using the winter to recover!

The View West From Cairn Gorm

We started from the Cairngorm ski car park and headed up through the skiing detritus and under the funicular railway where we were overtaken for the only time during the day - by the first train of the morning. We sped past the Ptarmigan restaurant top station and up the flagstones to the summit of Cairn Gorm (1245m; blue hill) all of which took just over an hour. The views ranged from Ben Wyvis and the distant Fannichs to the north-west to Beinn a’ Ghlo in the south and Creag Meagaidh and the Laggan hills away to the west.

Descending Cairn Gorm; Only 6 Munros to go!

The summit was ours alone at this early hour but we had much to do and descended without delay westwards before traversing the rocky rim of Coire an t-Sneachda. From the top of the goat track we struck out across the plateau in glorious sunshine before pausing for some early lunch beside wee Lochan Buidhe (green lochan) the highest named tarn in Britain. Near here in November 1971, a party of 5 schoolchildren and their assistant instructor from Ainslie Park High School in Edinburgh perished in a snow blizzard. The tragedy led to the removal of nearly all mountain refuges in the Cairngorms as it was felt their presence could encourage walkers to press on in bad weather. These sobering thoughts seemed a world away in the warm sunshine as we continued south up the boulder-strewn slopes that led to our second peak of the day: Ben Macdui (1309m; hill of Macduff). More folk were about now, as were the snow buntings, and we barely paused at this 2nd highest peak in Britain before heading onwards.

The View South From Ben Macdui Towards Distant Beinn a'Ghlo

We descended south to pick up the Tailor burn, named after 3 tailors who died in snow one New Year’s Eve in an attempt to dance a highland reel on both Deeside and Speyside during the same night. The burn’s left bank took us to a small saddle connecting Ben Macdui with our 3rd Munro of the day (a late addition for Pete’s benefit) Carn a’ Mhaim (1037m; hill of the pass). The summit is placed rather inconveniently at the southern end of the mountain’s 2km summit ridge but it eventually came our way and suddenly we were about to turn and head back towards the car instead of continuing on to Edinburgh which felt just as close!

Braeriach, the Lairig Ghru & Ben Macdui From Carn a' Mhaim

Below us the mighty defile of the Lairig Ghru the finest mountain pass in Britain led north over its 835m summit to Strathspey. Immediately beneath our feet, 500m below us on the valley floor, lay the conspicuous shiny roof of Corrour Bothy surrounded by it’s bright green moat of grass. This former deer-watcher’s cottage was built in 1877 and the last watcher left in the 1920s. We moved a little south from the summit before exploiting a break in the mountain’s western wall of crags to commence a descending traverse into the southern entrance of the Lairig Ghru.

The Lairig Ghru

High mountains towered all around us now, a sobering sight given that we still had to climb most of them! We paused at the footbridge carrying the path to the bothy for some food and a cold soak in the waters of the infant Dee. At 3.30 on this mid-October afternoon (hell of a time to start climbing a mountain) we paused briefly to inspect the bothy’s new facilities before beginning the steep climb up into Coire Odhar and onto yet another Munro, the euphemistically titled Devil’s Point (1004m). The original gaelic name inferred a more phallic translation and was changed to appease Victorian virtues! This is a splendid viewpoint which gives great views in all directions the least inspiring one being that to the north that heralded our next big climb up on to Cairn Toul.

The Devil's Point Towering Over the Corrour Bothy

A definite evening feel to the day accompanied our short descent from the Devil’s Point and immediate climb to the 1213m top overlooking rock-strewn Coire an t-Saighdeir (corrie of the soldier) before a short descent and re-ascent on to the short summit ridge of Cairn Toul (1291m; hill of the barn). This mighty peak, the 4th highest mountain in Britain and the sharpest of the high Cairngorms, acts as a high watchtower over the southern part of the Lairig Ghru whilst also giving extensive views far to the west.

Carn a' Mhaim From Cairn Toul

A short, sharp descent and almost identical climb took us on to our penultimate peak of the day, Sgor an Lochain Uaine (1258m; peak of the green lochan). The sun was about to sink below the distinct profile of Creag Meagaidh in the west and we could only just see the dark waters of Lochan Uaine cradled in the deep north-eastern corrie of the mountain. A quarter moon just visible low in the southern sky told us we could expect very little by way of night-time illumination from that particular source. So we staggered ever on...

Cairn Toul & Sgor an Lochain Uaine

We now began the circular traverse of the most magnificent corrie in the Cairngorms, An Garbh Choire (rough corrie), a vast open amphitheatre, almost 3 km across at its entrance, gouged out of these huge mountains. The lowest point on this traverse is 1130m! As the sun finally left us we picked our way in the last vestiges of twilight around the corrie which still bore a tiny snow patch from the previous winter! Two-thirds of the way round we crossed the infant Dee a few hundred metres from its source and climbed up on to our final summit, mighty Braeriach (1296m; brindled upland) the 3rd highest mountain in the country. The summit cairn is perched right above the vertical cliffs of Coire Bhrochain although we could see precious little of anything anymore! It was now 7PM, quite dark and we still had 12 km to go across some wild and rugged country. Ah well; we had nothing else on that evening.

Braeriach

Remaining close together now and with just my own head-torch for illumination we found the connecting col to Sròn na Lairige and headed north towards the twinkling (but distant) lights of Aviemore under a million stars. The path proved to be elusive in the blackness, even with the torch, and seemed determined to lose us. Eventually it did, but using the Plough and Polaris, the North Star, to navigate (easier than using the compass) we stumbled on through deep heather, tricky boulder fields and occasional grass until we intercepted our path once more just as it met the Lairig Ghru path at the northern entrance to that familiar pass.

The Devil's Point & Cairn Toul

We paused again, taking in welcome water in the icy freshness of the Allt Druidh, before crossing that burn and climbing up into the Chalamain Gap. This short-lived but impressively deep gash in the heather hillsides is a glacial melt-water channel that has deposited a great number of awkward boulders. These are slippery when wet or, as now, damp, and required great care and some luck to negotiate safely. Andy managed to use his mobile phone as an effective supplementry light source which helped. As if to celebrate getting through the gap, we looked up to see the Northern Lights (aurora borealis) glowing translucent green in the northern sky! This is an incredible sight at any time, but to these weary stravaigers, it proved to be a most welcome diversion on the long trudge home. After an eternity we escaped out the other side and picked up an excellent path that we gratefully followed past the reindeer pens to just below the Cairngorm ski road. Here, a new path led us upwards one more time to the long-sought lights of the Ski car park and the oh so welcome refuge of Pete’s car.

For the record, we covered over 40 kms/27 miles; climbed over 2400m/8000’ and after 14 long hours had climbed 7 Munros including 5 of the 6 highest mountains in Britain. We probably won’t be doing it again anytime soon!

Some Day!

The Cairngorms in Autumn - The Glen Feshie Hills

2010-10-10T20:00:00.003+01:00

Sgòran Dubh Mor

Autumn has come to the Scottish Highlands. The thermometer in Pete’s impressive new VW Bluemotion Golf (72 mpg, and even more with the engine off!) read a sobering zero degrees as we drove south from Aviemore down beautiful Glen Feshie. The whiteness of the early morning frost in the fields of Strathspey contrasted with the blazing autumnal tints on the silver birches and a blue, blue sky that promised a golden day on the high tops.

Autumn Tints in Glen Feshie

Leaving the car at the car park just north of Auchlean farm, we strolled off in that confident gait that comes from light sacks, no waterproofs and brilliant weather. The excellent Foxhunters’ Path carries you almost effortlessly up on to the skyline and deposits you at a small cairn on the long north-south plateau-ridge, much of it above 1000m, that towers above Glen Feshie. This upland forms the western rampart of the Cairngorm mountains. Despite the near idyllic conditions in the glen, it wasn’t all plain sailing. Orographic cloud clung stubbornly to the top of the ridge and a bitter arctic wind swept in from the north-east and forced out the jackets and gloves.

Coire Garbhlach

We endured the icy blast for twenty minutes and the cloud forced some deft map and compass work from the good-looking multi-talented mountain leader and blog author in the party as we struck out across the featureless plateau. And then it was gone, the cloud, the wind, the map, the compass and very shortly afterwards the jackets and gloves. There was our blue sky and bright sun again and there in front of us the first of our two Munros for the day.

Mullach Clach a' Bhlair Across the Featureless Miles of the Moine Mhor

A short side-step around the headwall of impressive Coire Garbhlach led us to the estate track that winds its way across the plateau hereabouts and then we were standing by the modest pile of stones that marks the summit of Mullach Clach a’ Bhlair (1019m; hill of the stony plain). Views from this diminutive but strategically-placed lump encompass, on a good day, much of the Central Highlands.

A Distant Cairn Toul From Carn Bàn Mor

Some 7 km to the north, just peeping over the horizon, lay the pyramidal summit cone of our second Munro, Sgor Gaoith. Off we strode on our carpet of grass and moss over the undulating plateau, the high peaks of the western Cairngorms, including Braeriach and Cairn Toul, now clearly visible across the featureless miles of the Moine Mhor (great moss). You wouldn’t want to be stranded here in cloud or at night without a map and compass – here be dragons! We continued north over Carn Bàn Mor scattering Ptarmigan in our wake and slowly but surely our peak drew closer.

Sgor Gaoith

Suddenly people were everywhere with at least a dozen folk peppering the summit, two of them with cycles! The ground immediately to our right dropped spectacularly to reveal the deep glacial trough of Gleann Einich with its eponymous loch framed on the other side by the majestic western corries of Braeriach. This is an impressive spot and we lingered for some time on top of our second Munro of the day, Sgor Gaoith (1118m; peak of the wind).

Braeriach From Sgor Gaoith

As the afternoon sun arced away to the south-west, we descended north over a succession of minor mounds and dips past Sgòran Dubh Mor and the delightful rock pinnacle of Sgòran Dubh Beag with great views left across Strathspey and right to the northern corries of the Cairngorms. We put up a flock of dunlin and watched gliders from Feshiebridge soaring above us.

Coutts' Stone

On Creag Dhubh we passed the small tors of Clach Choutsaich (Coutts’ Stone) and Clach Mhic Cailein (the Argyll Stone) where the eponymous duke rested following defeat in battle. Eventually we reached the final promontory of Cadha Mòr and were looking down on sweet Loch an Eilein with the evening sun lighting up the rustic coloured bark of its protective army of scots pines.

Loch an Eilean

From this last high viewpoint we left the easy walking of the granite and tundra vegetation for what we knew would be a messy pathless descent. Sure enough, there followed a rag-tag ankle-wrenching controlled tumble down through the deep tussocky heather and scots pines each of us in turn stumbling over hidden rocks or disappearing down unseen holes. An impressive red deer stag bounded away seemingly immune from our travelling difficulties. Eventually, the blissful sanctuary of the cycle track coming up from Loch an Eilein rescued us from purgatory and that familiar oft-walked and oft-cycled track led us north through the scented pines of Rothiemurchus to the waiting car and promises of a hot fish pie and an ice-cold beer. Even I had a beer that evening. Er, even I had several beers that evening...

Evening Reflections in Rothiemurchus

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

The Black Cuillin of Skye – Sgurr nan Eag & Sgurr Dubh Mor

2010-09-18T21:24:00.003+01:00

The Cuillin Ridge From Sgurr Dubh Mor

The 2 southernmost Munros on the Skye Ridge make for a long day but can – under the right conditions – give memorable views. Northwards, the Skye ridge snakes its sinuous way towards Sgurr nan Gillean whilst to the east, Bla Bheinn stands in splendid isolation leading the eye towards the Munros of Knoydart. Out to sea, beyond the nearer islands of Rum, Eigg and Canna, you can see South Uist and Barra and the other islands of the Outer Hebrides.

The Island of Rum (on a very good day)!

This week gave mixed conditions on Skye with four-seasonal weather making its presence felt. Wind, rain and hail mingled with clear skies and sunshine (not in the most favourable of proportions) to ensure the weather was anything but boring. Unfortunately for my battle-hardened aspirant Munroists from Dalkeith, by the time they arrived to tackle their penultimate Skye Munros all the variety had gone out of the weather and it was low cloud and rain almost all the way!

Coir a'Ghrunnda

A family of red deer were taking a dip in the River Brittle and eyed me passively as I drove down to the Glen Brittle road-end. From here we donned waterproofs and set out along the well-constructed path that leads in an hour to the concealed entrance to Coir a’Ghrunnda. Here, Maggie wisely decided that discretion was the greater part of valour and courageously decided to return to the car and pursue alternative activities for the remainder of the day. Geoff donned his fetching grape-coloured cap as we turned north and climbed into the corrie. We followed the sketchy and at times indeterminate path that climbs up some scree, across a boulder field and up 2 rock bands before reaching the impressive Loch Coir a’Ghrunnda, a blue sheet cradled in a rocky amphitheatre which remains hidden until the last moment.

Sgurr Alasdair Towers Above Loch Coir a'Ghrunnda

Naturally, most of the finer details of this spectacular location were not so evident today! From the loch a fairly steep 180m climb up a stony slope puts you on the ridge line and a further 10 mins of fairly level ground leads to the conspicuous summit cairn of Sgurr nan Eag (924m; notched peak). No view today of course but those visiting on a good day will want to linger long and take in the wide and impressive panorama.

Sgurr nan Eag - Summit Pic!

The route on to Sgurr Dubh Mor leads back the way you came until half way down the stony slope when you bear right on to the ridge itself and traverse along below the rock pillar of Caisteal a’Garbh-choire (the castle of the rough corrie) which is best avoided to the right. Here, much evidence of pyroclastic volcanic activity suggests this was not a spot to be standing 60 million years ago when the future use of Skye as a mountaineering mecca was being established! Whilst Jackie and Charles set about devouring their comprehensive collection of continental cheeses (and I tucked into my pasty) the clouds briefly cleared to show us Loch Coruisk far below where the Bella Jane from Elgol was entertaining its passengers by drawing tight circles with her wake in the emerald coloured waters. After lunch further climbing – more like entertaining seaside scrambling – for 20 mins brought us to the summit of Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn (944m; black peak of the two mountains).

Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn From Sgurr Dubh Mor

Here, as I so ably demonstrated to my windswept and interested clients, holding a magnetic compass close to the summit rock can give a significant deflection of the needle. From here we descended through the murk along the outlying ridge to our second Munro.

Scrambling Up Sgurr Dubh Mor

Whilst this summit lies only 200m off the main ridge and requires only 50m descent and re-ascent to achieve, route finding here is difficult in the clearest of conditions. In mist it can be treacherous so take care and know what you’re doing. Deftly we picked our way down, along and up snaking our way over and around the various cliffs, crags and crevices that seek to hinder your progress to the top. And then suddenly we were there atop this peskiest of Cuillin Munros that really does try to make things difficult for you: Sgurr Dubh Mor (979m; big black rocky peak). Again, no view. Sorry folks; you should have been here yesterday!

Distant Sgurr nan Gillean From Sgurr Dubh Mor

We retraced our steps down, along and back up to Sgurr Dubh na Da Bheinn wisely deciding not to repeat the compass trick as the novelty had no doubt worn off in the rain! We traversed north along the ridge a few hundred metres before turning left and returning down into Coir a’Ghrunnda. We paused once more at the loch before descending back to Glen Brittle where we knew Maggie, the cars, some lightly sautéed potatoes and a glass of ale would serve as a fitting end to our day in the clouds.

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Late Summer on the Pentlands

2010-08-28T19:36:00.002+01:00

The Pentland Chain From Allermuir Hill

It’s late summer in the hills and mountains of Scotland. The swallows are still with us but the ospreys are all but gone, back to the heat of west Africa for the winter and we await the arrival of the redwings and fieldfares from Scandinavia to herald the onset of autumn. Time to get some more hill-time before the autumn clients arrive so I spent the day on the Pentlands making the most of the dying embers of what in other parts of the world is known as summer!

Approaching Caerketton Hill

The walks – and the hills – are all familiar to me now of course and I’m free to make up any number of route combinations as I go along. I’ve also experienced these model mountains in all weathers and seasons, all of which have something to offer in their own way. Right now, however, it is the colours that take the eye: the heather is in full bloom, the grasses still have some green-ness in them and there are still some flowers to enjoy. Add to this some warm sunshine and you have all the ingredients for a great day out above festival-gripped Edinburgh!

Turnhouse Hill and Glencorse Reservoir

I spent the day on the eastern hills, taking in Allermuir and Caerketton Hills, Castlelaw, the Flotterstone Glen and Glencorse Reservoir. The distances aren't great and the height climbed very modest; but the rucksack is still full of memories!

Black Hill Above Glencorse Reservoir

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

GR54 – Hut-to-Hut in the French Alps

2010-07-20T19:00:00.001+01:00

Classic GR54 Scenery

The Parc National des Écrins (Écrins National Park) is the largest and highest national park in France and the area it covers, one of the most challenging of alpine environments. The GR54 long distance footpath carves a circular route through and around these mountains and is considered to be one of the toughest multi-day treks in Europe. That said, no technical skills are required although some scrambling ability, sure-footedness and a reasonable head for heights all come in useful.

Le Sirac Dominates the Col de Vallonpierre

The GR54 runs to 110 miles in length, crosses 14 high passes and ascends almost 13,000m/42,000 ft. It is usually completed in 10-13 days. Our combined group of trekkers planned to undertake a 6-day circumnavigation of the most remote and challenging section of the route covering over 60 of those miles and crossing 9 of the high passes. This segment of the GR54 twists and turns around the flanks of high alpine peaks, climbs over high passes before plunging into deep, remote valleys far from most permanent settlements. The trail is generally clearly defined and well maintained although some exposed sections on the high passes require care.

Day 1

The trek began at the road-head west of the village of Vallouise, 20km SW of Briançon. We followed the path alongside a fast-flowing glacial stream through a pine-scented wooded valley in 30°stifling heat pausing frequently for rest and water!

The Climbing Begins!

Eventually the climbing begins, up over stony ground and some scree and then compacted shale (dodgy when wet) to the first of 2 cols: the Col de l’Aup Martin (2761m), the highest point on the GR54. Here the temperature was mercifully comfortable although we knew the heat would return on the descent. A short traverse over scree led to the Pas de la Cavale (2735m) en route to which, an unavoidable spray waterfall gave us all a refreshing shower!

Traversing Between the Cols

There then followed the first of several long weary descents steeply down to the grasslands of the Vallée de Champoléon and the first night’s accommodation at the Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette, a 62-bed mountain refuge at 1790m. This hut provided excellent facilities, good food and was constantly surrounded by marmots which provided a soundtrack of chirps and whistles to this welcome alpine fastness.

Day 2

Yesterday’s 2-col sweetener was trumped by today’s 3-col roller-coaster ride. An early start gave us shade and welcome coolness for the climb up the Vallon de la Pierre up switchbacks to the first high pass of the day: the Col de la Vallette (2668m). The path drops steeply from here, but not for long, before crossing a grassy valley to the Col de Gouiran (2597m).

Col de la Vallette

Some lingering snowfields and a charming lake provided some scenic interest and the traverse to the second col took only 45 mins. The descent from this col is more straightforward than the previous ones and crosses a series of eroded shaley ribs before climbing to the Col de Vallonpierre (2607m).

Col de la Vallette From Col de Gouiran

Much of today’s route circumnavigated the distinctive peak of Le Sirac (3441m) which looms above this last col. We resisted the good doctor’s exhortations to throw in an alpine ascent of a snow peak into our itinerary and enjoyed the spectacular views instead! We then descended steadily to the delightful, if crowded, Refuge de Vallonpierre standing on the edge of the glass-like Lac de Vallonpierre.

Le Sirac

After a break for lunch we continued down into the green wooded Vallée du Valgaudemar and our second night’s accommodation: the Refuge du Clot, a homely 50-bed hut surrounded by trees at 1400m. Another excellent meal, hut guardians Pierre and Caroline and some very friendly chickens (you had to be there) all combined to make a memorable evening. We even saw the only chamois of the trek – albeit a distant speck high on the valley wall!

Le Sirac From the Head of the Vallée du Valgaudemar

Day 3

Our third day began with an easy valley walk for 2 hrs before stopping for coffee and croissants at the only permanent settlement we came across, the small outdoor activity centre of La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar. A further hour along the valley floor to Villar-Loubière and we could put it off no longer: the 4hr hot, steep and dusty 1500m slog up to the Col de la Vaurze (2498m). This was definitely the crux of the whole week! The only respite was a brief drinks stop at the well-placed Refuge des Souffles (1975m).

Col de la Vaurze - the Crux!

There followed an interesting traverse across the upper valley headwall before more interminable switchbacks brought us to the Col de la Vaurze. From here we looked directly down on our night’s destination, Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey (1255m) nestling in the valley below – but it would still take another 2hrs to reach the hamlet from the col.

The Descent to Le Désert

The Gîte le Désert provided basic accommodation but the highlight of the stop-over was definitely the €1.20 a shot whisky the good doctor and I imbibed ourselves with for much of the evening whilst trying to work out why you can’t see the dark side of the moon (you had to be there)! Most agreeable.

Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey

Day 4

Following 3 big days, the walking was about to become a little easier and the days shorter as we entered the western part of the Écrins National Park. The scenery also becomes a little softer and the cols a little less austere. From Le Désert, we climbed in early morning comfort and on a good path to the grassy Col de Côte Belle (2290m) before descending through stands of alpenrose and pine forest to the village of Valsenestre (1294m).

The View South From the Col de Côte Belle

Beautiful and idyllic in mid-summer, the hamlet’s summer residents desert the place for winter before snow and avalanches cut off the valley! The very comfortable 25-bed Gîte Le Beranger provided excellent rooms, facilities and food for our valiant band of trekkers. The afternoon off was most welcome!

Day 5

Having originally planned to cover the trek in 6 days, we decided to combine the last 2 relatively easy days into one last big day. Although tiring, this would give us a full day off at the end of the trek for some welcome respite and maybe even lunch in Briançon! We started by returning along the previous day’s route for half an hour before climbing up through grass, then rock, and finally a steep shale cone to the Col de la Muzelle (2625m).

Col de la Muzelle

Much of this was achieved in welcome shade and a cool breeze before the temperature started rising again as we descended over snowfields (nice nose-dive Toity!) down into a grassy valley to the Lac de la Muzelle and its attendant Refuge de la Muzelle.

Col de la Muzelle From the Muzelle Refuge and Lake

Just before reaching the refuge we turned left for the 90-min climb up switchbacks to the Col du Vallon (2531m) our last high pass of the week. Soaring eagles and distant views of snowy peaks entertained us as we plodded ever upwards. There followed a long and twisting descent to the blue-green waters of one of the highlights of the whole GR54, the picturesque Lac Lauvitel (1540m). We just had to stop here in this sublime setting - the girls went for a swim and the guys paddled and everyone sunbathed (like we really needed more sun)! From the lake, a short 30 min descent brought us to journey’s end and a waiting car at the village of La Danchére.

Lac Lauvitel

Overall, we covered 95km and climbed 7260m! This is definitely the most challenging – and rewarding – part of the GR54 and we were not disappointed. If you are planning to check it out, the GR54 is usually attempted between mid-July and late September when snow and ice are normally no longer a factor. However, some isolated patches of late Spring snow may be encountered and for that reason it is prudent to consider carrying an ice axe if travelling early in the season. Otherwise, you can expect very warm weather (hot in the valleys) with the occasional afternoon thunderstorm. Oh, and have plenty of Radox waiting at home for when you get back!

Approaching the Col de la Muzelle

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/alpine/alpine.htm

The Five Summits

2010-07-04T18:00:00.009+01:00

What a Team!

The good people of Gunnersbury Catholic School in west London came up with this great idea of running around the UK this summer and climbing the highest peaks in England, Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland and the Irish Republic. The only thing was, they elected to do them all in 5 days! It really did seem like a good idea at the time but as the day approached a wee bit of apprehension crept in over the enormity of the logistical and physical effort that would be required. In the event, it actually proved to be a brilliant idea, particularly as the boys raised a considerable amount of money for Macmillan’s Nurses! So my good self and 10 fine youngsters of the said school together with 3 staff to provide iron discipline (and that was just for me) met up at Birmingham Airport and well, what followed was something like this......

Snowdon (1085m)

Snowdon From the PYG Track

From the airport an empty M6 toll (only the Brits could ignore an empty motorway because of the extra toll) took us quickly towards north Wales. We even managed to find a parking place at Pen y Pass, an early indication of the good luck that was to follow us throughout the trip! A sunny afternoon saw us ready for the start up the much-improved PYG track from which even the most navigationally challenged walker would have difficulty straying!

Going Strongly for the Top!

The new cafe on the summit does what it has to do and is a big improvement on the dilapidated predecessor that (dis)graced the spot on countless previous visits. Snowdon will always be a busy mountain but it is still the greatest peak in Wales with grand ridges and impressive corries radiating out from it’s summit cone. Today, fellow walkers, helicopters and trains all combined to give the boys a taste of the Snowdon symphony.

Lliwedd and Llyn Glaslyn

Just over 2 hrs to the summit and a little quicker on the return down– and I remember when Snowdon used to take all day to conquer! Warm sunshine and great views accompanied us throughout and spirits were high. Oliver cut his finger on a rock near the summit; our first casualty. André asked a few questions, quite a few actually, and Liam started losing things, a habit he carefully crafted throughout the week! Fortunately, this didn't include his dad's expensive North Face jacket! It was a good start and the Swallow Falls youth hostel proved to be an ideal first night stop – even if William didn’t share his giant pizza with the staff!

Scafell Pike (978m)

Scafell Pike and Scafell Across Wastwater

Wasdale Head was a bit of a struggle to reach – they’d shut an access road and we ended up fighting our way up ever-narrowing country lanes to get to our start point. When we got there, a picnic of packed lunches in 23° afternoon sunshine melted the road miles away. Then it was up the good path alongside Lingmell Beck up Brown Tongue and Hollow Stones to the Lingmell Col and on to the boulder-strewn summit of England’s highest (but far from most distinguished) peak.

England's Highest Point

Again, quite a few folk were about undertaking evening ascents and a few straggly sheep grazed the grassy slopes – far fewer than there used to be. The usual sunshine and expansive views flavoured the summit experience. Oliver tripped on the way down and added yet more battle scars to his ever-receptive body. We returned down the same way in the evening sun to the former country mansion that now does for the Wasdale Hall youth hostel.

Evening Light on Wastwater

Another 4-hr saunter for the boys who were carrying all before them. Two down and only 3 to go now – and just a 6-hr minibus ride to the next challenge, the mighty Ben. And the weather forecast was on the dire side of absolutely atrocious....

Ben Nevis (1344m)

Ben Nevis

The boys were mightily impressed with the Green Welly Stop at Tyndrum. A feast of carbohydrates provided the ideal energy source for the impending haul up Ben Nevis. Very fortunately for us, the expected buckets of rain, 70mph winds and odd locust had all lost interest by the time we left the Glen Nevis youth hostel and walked up the tourist track rapidly shredding all our waterproofs and fleeces! Tom stuck doggedly to his Arsenal hat but there was nothing else to spoil the view! Having prepared the boys for the worse they must have been wondering what all the fuss was about. The promise of some snow on the summit helped restore some of my street cred!

High Above Glen Nevis

Having generally climbed the Ben in full winter conditions in recent years, this summer evening stroll up the much-repaired tourist path (with yet more welcome repair work underway above the Red Burn) proved to be a bit of a doddle with the boys striding manfully for the summit as the clouds lifted and even the bloody sun came out. Again! Even André stopped asking ‘is that the top?’ The summit was reached in only 2¾ hrs, a most creditable achievement by the guys who were climbing only their 3rd British mountain and in only 3 days!

High Point of the Trip!

Having set off late in the day we were expecting to have Ben Nevis to ourselves. In the event we were accompanied by 120 runners, walkers and staggerers from the Joint Service 3 Peaks Challenge. It made for a busy mountain. After a short stop on the summit we descended past a lingering snow patch where the boys were able to vent their inexhaustible energy with a snowball fight in July!

Gunnersbury Snowball Fight - in July!

Then it was down once again in evening sunshine to the youth hostel with dry clothes. Again! All was well with the party; even Oliver made it through unscathed! Surely our luck couldn’t last and the weather gods would get their revenge once we crossed the sea to Ireland...

Slieve Donard (850m)

'Where the Mountains of Mourne Sweep Down to the Sea'

An interminable drive across south-west Scotland to Stranraer was never going to be the highlight of the trip! What a rubbish location for a ferry terminal for sailings to Northern Ireland – you take ages to get there and then spend the first 45 mins of the crossing heading north out of Loch Ryan! Things improved though after a nice supper on the boat and gannets were diving into the harbour as we sailed into Belfast. A short drive in the gathering dusk brought us to Newcastle ‘where the mountains of Mourne sweep down to the sea’.

Glen River Path

Slieve Donard, named after an Irish saint, dominates the seaside town and is just begging to be climbed. The Slieve Donard Hotel was conveniently situated across the road from our humble youth hostel and some of the elder members of the party were able to partake in a rare opportunistic dram or two. The hotel guests paid us no mind resplendent in our hill gear and boots! Our money was as good as theirs and anyway, some of the wedding guests looked in far worse shape than we did! The next morning the boys led us out of town through Donard Park and up the Glen River path to the Mourne Wall.

So Where's This Wall Everyone Keeps Talking About?

This impressive structure was built to enclose a reservoir catchment area in the early 20th Century and is 22 miles long! It provided much-needed employment to many who needed it at the time. The boys followed the wall straight up to the huge summit marker (2½ hrs from the hostel) from where views north to the Belfast hills and south to rapidly approaching shower clouds gave food for thought!

Looking Back to Newcastle

Sure enough it was time for the gore-tex and we got a right soaking on the first part of the descent before normal service was resumed and sunshine returned as we descended back down into Newcastle.

Slieve Donard Summit Cairn

Some local runners were out and about in training for the Seven Mournes race. They were hardy souls in shorts and running tops and weren't about to let a sudden burst of Irish rain spoil their day. On the way back through what was now a pretty crowded seaside town one of the party slipped back from the main group and partook of the output of a local fish and chip shop - for research purposes only you understand. After a quick change we readied ourselves for the 7-hr drive across the Emerald Isle to our last summit.

Carrauntoohil (1038m)

Carrauntoohil and Beenkeragh

The Black Valley hostel nestling in the delightfully named Macgillycuddy’s Reeks (reeks = black stacks) proved to be an admirable home for our last night although we had to wait for the morning to see what it looked like – and where exactly we were – in daylight! The excitement began with a fallen tree across the access road which caused a few thinks bubbles amongst the team before the resourceful Mr Cronin turned up with his chainsaw. Nothing was going to stop the boys at this late stage! The weather at last took the upper hand and we were clad head-to-toe in gore-tex for our walk from Cronin’s Yard up the wide track which we were sharing with a fast flowing stream coming in the opposite direction! We would have had problems getting through but some new bridges and strategically placed stepping stones saved the day.

Don't Try This at Home!

Ronan’s glasses needed wipers for the wipers as the rain showed no sign of relenting as we fought our way up Hag’s Glen. The skyline is generally accessed by climbing the Devil’s Ladder which we approached with some intrepidation. This loose boulder-filled gulley is severely eroded and requires great care. The path, what there is of it, winds its delicate way up as the water flows freely down and a considerable amount of work is required here to stabilise the scree. An alternative path climbs up safer slopes a little to the east and should be taken by everyone - but it is not well marked just where it needs to be and could not be easily identified in the conditions. We proceeded up the ladder with extreme caution.

The Devil's Ladder

It was a relief to reach the skyline even if we were exposed to a cool gusty wind for the final climb to the summit of Carrauntoohil (Tuathal's sickle). William was asked to lead the way and look after his party – and promptly got ‘leader’s legs’ and marched off into the mist never to be seen again! It's OK mum, we soon caught up with him and there, looming out of the murk, was the 16ft high iron cross that adorns this highest point of the Irish Republic.

The Final Summit

There was quite a crowd on the summit but no-one there could match the achievement of the Gunnersbury boys. Quite rightly, the clouds parted and we were rewarded with wide views over County Kerry and the none-too-distant sea. With ferries to catch and flights to take we turned for home. Deciding against pushing our luck on a risky descent down the Devil’s Ladder, we traversed the ridge and descended down the safer path to the east which was now clearly visible. Typically, the eagle-eyed youngsters realised this necessitated a short climb and I’m sure I detected some quiet muttering in the ranks!

Getting Blown Away!

However, in true Gunnersbury fashion the cloud lifted and the sun came out for our return to the minibus. As we approached the car park you just knew that if you threw a football in to the adjacent farmer’s field the boys wouldn’t hesitate to run off and play a quick 5-a-side such was their unbounded energy. We adults would have loved to have joined them but looking after 10 miniature whirlwinds for 5 days ensuring they coped with all of the costume changes and didn’t hurl themselves down steep grassy slopes had taken its toll! I was deposited at Cork airport exhausted but sorry to see them go. We’d had a ball. The flight back from Cork proved memorable for one reason only – I got to close my eyes in Ireland and open them again in Scotland.

Me and Da Boys!

A big thank you to Paul Muncer, Tim Hayes and Steve Shillcock for their great company and support throughout the week and to my new buddies André, Adrian, Charlie, Joe, Joshua, Liam, Oliver, Ronan, Tom and William. Their resilience and endeavour knew no bounds throughout this amazing tour de force through the British Isles where they climbed unaided to 5 mighty summits in 5 short days. Well done guys – it was a pleasure to be on the hills with you.

Joshua's Logo for the Team Shirts

Knoydart - 2010

2010-06-28T17:30:00.006+01:00

Loch Nevis

Great weather graced our first visit of the year to the remote peninsula of Knoydart on the west coast of Scotland across from Skye. The late cancellation of Jon’s London flight threatened a hasty re-plan but as the weekend weather forecast enabled Friday to be a spare day, he was able to catch the afternoon ferry and missed nothing. Meanwhile, Gayle and I made ourselves comfortable in the best bunkhouse on Knoydart: the Old Byre. We planned to take in both Luinne Bheinn and Meall Buidhe in one long day on Saturday followed by a slightly shorter day on mighty Ladhar Bheinn on Sunday. The Monday morning ferry would take us back to the mainland – or so it always seems that way on Knoydart where you have to keep reminding yourself you are already on the mainland!

Luinne Bheinn and Loch an Dubh-Lochain

Saturday started with the customary and unavoidable hike up to Mam Barrisdale (450m), a 3-hr walk on a reasonably good track for most of the way past an old fish hatchery and Loch an Dubh Lochain (black loch). A highlight today was the sight and sound of snipe darting above us with their distinctive ‘drumming’ created by their tail feathers. Sandpipers were playing along the loch shore but deer were nowhere to be seen. The track becomes a path that climbs up to the pass that heralds the start of the actual ascent of Luinne Bheinn (939m; swelling hill). The route is fairly easy, even in mist, as a line of rusting fence posts carry you around the southern flank of the hill before you strike for the summit up steep grassy slopes. The view to the north is stunning across Loch Hourn to Arnisdale and dear old Beinn Sgritheall, a favourite and memorable wee Munro.

Sgurr na Ciche From Meall Buidhe

Below you to the south the great ice-scoured corrie of Choire Odhair (dun-coloured corrie) fills the foreground and it is around the headwall of this mighty bowl that a good path leads you around to Meall Buidhe (946m; yellow hill). In clear conditions this hill always give great views to the west out over the sea and the islands of the Inner Hebrides. As it’s generally late in the day when I’m up here, these views are always enhanced by the sun sinking in the western sky and its shimmering reflection on the water. From the summit a long grassy ridge stretches south-westwards directly towards Inverie. You can descend from this ridge at the 500m level and drop down to a footbridge in Gleann Meadail. By late June however, the ferns are rampant on the lower slopes so we elected to stay with the ridge (Druim Righeanaich) all the way until it deposited us on the flat bogland opposite the Kilchoan estate bothy. A short walk across the dry bog and a convenient (but essential) bridge carried us back to our outward track and back to Inverie. It was a long day (25km; 9½ hrs), and tiring, but it breaks the back of the Knoydart Munros and leaves you with a more straightforward day to finish with for Ladhar Bheinn.

Ladhar Bheinn From the Folach Track

The horror that is wading through waist-deep ferns influenced our route selection on Sunday too! We decided to tackle Ladhar Bheinn directly from the south via the old shepherd’s cottage at Folach. Once you can fight your way out of Inverie (the track is not clearly marked and the pier has moved) you just follow the vehicle track north out of the trees and across the open pass of Mam Uidhe before dropping down to the bridge at Folach. Ladhar Bheinn is in view from the pass onwards and it’s not too long before you are climbing up easy grassy (and fern-free) slopes of An Diollaid on a sketchy path to the skyline.

Coire Dhorrcail

Again, great views open up to the north and the steep craggy cliffs of the mountain’s northern aspect contrast strongly with the more gentle grass on the southern slopes. The almost level summit ridge of this great mountain is punctuated by 3 cairns and a trig point; the actual summit is the cairn between the trig point and the eastern-most cairn – Ladhar Bheinn (1020m; hoof hill) From here spectacular views can be had in all directions. Mighty Coire Dhorrcail falls away beneath you, the mountain’s defining feature, whilst Barrisdale Bay, Loch Hourn and the other Knoydart peaks fill the eastern panorama.

Beinn Sgritheall and Arnisdale Across Loch Hourn

We returned the same way, heavy showers ensuring we didn’t get away scot-free. It didn’t matter however, we’d stood on 3 cloud-free summits and seen a lot of what Knoydart has to offer – wild country, great peaks and the unshakeable sense of being on an island. Don’t ever change!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Requiem For A Best Friend

2010-06-24T11:00:00.002+01:00

On Iona in 2005

A chance meeting with a young family playing with a small bundle of fluff at the Cairngorm ski car park in August 1995 prompted a visit to the Glenmore village shop where a note was advertising golden retriever puppies. This in turn led to the introduction into our own lives of the most beautiful, loving and faithful companion anyone could wish for: Bonnie Girl. Bonnie was born on the 21st June 1995 to pedigree-stock golden retriever parentage in an outhouse at the Badaguish Outdoor Centre deep in the heart of the Glenmore Forest Park. She knew many homes and many guardians all of whom returned in equal share, her ever-constant love and affection. It was hard not to; she was just the perfect dog.

The Age of Innocence (for both of them)!

Bonnie accompanied me on 35 Munro ascents, from countless summer days on the Cairngorm plateau to a deep snowy winter’s day on the Five Sisters of Kintail when her shiny coat was matted in icy globules of snow. She visited Mull and Iona and even took a boat trip to Staffa! She accompanied me on so many walks over Scottish mountains, Worcestershire hills and the grassy fields of Wiltshire. She also knew well the cliffs and beaches of the Gower peninsula in south Wales and Sugar Loaf mountain above Abergavenny. Lochcarron was another favourite place for her and she even camped out with me one night high above the glen, straining at the leash to run after the deer. She never stopped running. Until today.

Must be Some Food About!

I will miss her terribly, as we all will; those of us who knew her sparkling eyes, shiny coat, amazing character and irrepressible canine guile and cunning. One day this summer, I will drive north to the Glenmore Forest Park and to Rothiemurchus where the two of us spent so many happy days together, each in our own true spiritual home. I will gaze up at the northern corries of that familiar skyline, flame-red in the evening sunshine, and stand amongst the aromatic native Scots Pines and juniper bushes and run my hands through the purple heather where Bonnie used to play.

Bonnie Girl: 1995 - 2010

Skye - 2010

2010-06-20T13:00:00.002+01:00

The In Pinn Bristling With Climbers.

Another spell on Skye has just finished with some rewarding, but long and hard days on the Cuillin Ridge. The weather has been mixed, but never poor enough to curtail a day’s activity. The company has been second to none as first Mark and Peter, and then Callum, Doreen (from Peebles), Pete, Mark, Irene, Peter and Simon accompanied the good Doctor and myself up the length and breadth of the Misty Isle’s highest peaks.

Bla Bheinn on a Better day!

This mountain marathon started with a damp ascent of Bla Bheinn with Mark where all the views were virtual and the mountain quiet until four wonderful search and rescue border collies accompanied by local guide Tony Hanly arrived on the summit. Bla Bheinn offers a short day (and there aren’t many of those to be had around here) and is a good choice if the weather is not so good. But do try and climb it at least once on a good day as its isolated position away from the main ridge makes it a superlative viewpoint.

The second day gave us warm sunshine and we toiled up the Great Stone Shoot in Coire Lagan and up on to the spectacular summit cone of Skye’s highest point: Sgurr Alasdair. The visibility was not quite good enough to give us a view of St Kilda but we weren’t complaining and were just content that the rock was dry for our airy traverse of Sgurr Thearlich and Collie’s Ledge to our second Munro of the day: Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. This all went smoothly and Mark even agreed to pose at the end of a tight rope for a photo with the depths of Coire Lagan far below him (as he knew only too well)!

Mark, (Very) High Above Coire Lagan!

The third day, with Peter joining us, was a much less successful day in Coir a’Ghrunnda with low cloud, burns in spate and Mark’s troublesome knee all combining to give us a view-less and Munro-less day!

Sgurr a'Mhadaidh With Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh Behind.

Meeting up with the Doctor and our ever-growing band of budding alpinists saw an unusually long straggle of 9 ascending An Dorus (the door) for a stunning day on 2 ropes of the central peaks of Sgurr a'Mhadaidh, Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh and Sgurr na Banachdich. Pete declared he didn’t know such concentration existed as we snaked our cautious but exhilarating way along the sharpest arête in Britain around those familiar Cuillin landmarks that punctuate progress along the ridge: the black gash, the wart and the three teeth. We cuddled many a Cuillin that day!

Not Now Keith; I'm Concentrating!

From the final summit a long and tortuous descent down the scree and shale of Coire an Eich led us back to the Glen Brittle Youth Hostel and the sight of a large golden eagle (possibly a sea eagle) soaring above us in search of an evening meal. Thankfully, there was still sufficient life in our party (just) to suggest we had nothing to offer!

Poser on the Ridge - You Get a Lot of These!

Tuesday saw a return to Coire Lagan but not, thankfully, the Great Stone Shoot (an horrendous ascent route now). A reasonable climb up the edge of the An Stac screes placed us on the ridge for a there-and-back ascent of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and then, in gathering gloom and a bitter crosswind, a quick shin up the Inaccessible Pinnacle.

Cold? It's Just a State of Mind!

Everyone did really well and seemed to take this precariously perched flake of rock in their stride (and occasionally, straddle). Even the abseils went smoothly so well done everyone – firstly for climbing the Pinn and secondly for not catching hypothermia! A slow and complicated descent down Coire na Banachdich ensured another 10-hour day – you don’t get much time to write postcards or watch the footie when you’re climbing the Cuillin!

Doreen (from Peebles) Struts Her Stuff on the In Pinn!

And now for something different…. Oh no I forgot, and now for another 10-hour day in the cloud! This time it was the long, long trudge from the Glen Brittle campsite (the toilets are no longer public by the way!) and around into Coir a’Ghrunnda. The views were as non-existent as before but at least the water levels in the burns had receded and posed no problems. Shaley paths and seaside scrambling in the murk gave us Sgurr nan Eag and Sgurr Dubh Mor and a chance encounter with a lone walker who required rescuing that night by the Skye Mountain Rescue Team! Navigation in poor visibility remains the Cuillin’s greatest challenge (other than falling off them of course) and should not be underestimated. For such a sharp, well-defined ridge, finding your way about in thick cloud is surprisingly difficult. The last part of the day was spent traversing beneath the Thearlich-Dubh (T-D) Gap and up onto a very tricky and greasy Sgurr Alasdair. Skilful cricket skills enabled Peter to catch Irene at second slip at a delicate moment of the climb in a particularly greasy gulley and it was a relief all round to reach the summit! No view at all this time, let alone of St Kilda. It was not a place to linger today so it was down the Great Stone Shoot (in 30 mins; well done team!) and back down Coire Lagan in another 10-hr plus Cuillin Fest! No postcards; no footie – again!

Another Misty Summit!

We finished the week with ascents of the 3 northern peaks seen to such advantage from the Sligachan Hotel: Sgurr nan Gillean, Am Basteir and Bruach na Frithe (yes I know you can’t actually see the last one from Sligachan but you can use your imagination)! The ascent into Coire a’ Bhasteir provided a welcome change from Glen Brittle but the tops were mostly enshrouded in cloud as we hauled our weary selves below Am Basteir and it’s sinister Tooth up onto Bruach na Frithe. Regrettably, Irene’s knee was causing just too much pain to continue so I gallantly forsook an ascent of the last 2 peaks and accompanied her off the mountain whilst the remainder of the group followed the Doctor up and down Am Basteir’s east ridge and up and down Sgurr nan Gillean’s west ridge. This day proved to be the longest yet – 11 hrs!

The Doctor Leading From the Rear(s)!

Throughout the week the team’s spirits remained high despite many new experiences and unusual positions that many were probably not expecting. The humour flowed in line with the adrenalin and Doreen (from Peebles) was good enough to let me know what she thought of the life-cycle of the Common Lousewort…… Callum has very few Munros left to do, Pete has discovered new depths of concentration and I will be forever indebted to Simon for his invaluable insight into the formation of baked and chilled margins, isostatic rebound and sliken lines!

And now to Knoydart...

All Scrubbed Up at the Slig!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

To Skye With The Mighty Quinn(s)!

2010-05-15T21:56:00.011+01:00

Loch Coruisk

This has not been a classic May so far, weather-wise, on the Misty Isle. But it was OK for my return last week when the highlight of the week was meeting up with the Quinn brothers, Michael and Chris who were closing in on their last 4 Cuillin Munros. Having warmed up on the Five Sisters of Kintail, they met up with me at Glen Brittle Youth Hostel where we decided which of the 4 remaining peaks the conditions would lend themselves to. In the event, we elected for the relatively safe route up into Coire a' Ghreadaidh to climb the 2 central peaks of Sgurr a' Mhadaidh and Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh.

Coire a' Ghreadaidh

The path leads up alongside the delightful waterfalls and rock pools that the Allt a' Choire Ghreadaidh has created to add interest to its relentless journey down the mountainside to the sea. Louseworts and milkworts provided some rare colour by the path but there was no sign of the golden eagle sighting I had rashly promised Michael. A passing shower dampened only the gore-tex as our spirits remained high given the rapid progress this route makes up on to the higher ground. You might expect any mountain day with the Irish to be entertaining and the boys didn’t let me down. I now know an awful lot more about the differences between Scottish and Irish Gaelic, how to service a Boeing 737, and the development of Soviet-Irish diplomatic relations, than I did last week! Cloud shrouded the ridgeline and did so for much of the day but we could clearly see our route up on to the scree and into our gateway to the skyline: An Dorus (the door), a sharp defile that provides a rare access route on to the main Cuillin ridge.

An Dorus

Whilst An Dorus itself is easily attained, it takes a tricky rock step to climb out of it on either side and a steady head – and hold or two – is required to make onward progress. One of these can be avoided on the left by leaving the gulley about 20m below the ridge and working your way up shaley ledges before scrambling up on to the rather anti-climactic summit of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh (918m; peak of the foxes). Just north of this summit the Cuillin ridge makes a 90 degree turn eastwards before continuing on to the northern peaks that culminate in the shapely spire of Sgurr nan Gillean. The only view we got today was of the day’s other objective: one of the Cuillin’s finest peaks: Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh. We returned to An Dorus the same way thus avoiding one difficult step; but there was no escaping the second one which gets you on your way southwards.

Sgurr a' Mhadaidh

Soon after leaving An Dorus you come across the rock crevice of Eag Dubh (black notch) which has been sliced out of the ridge and is narrow enough to give an Asda shopper a tight squeeze. It can however be avoided to the left and the ridge is again followed up past the Wart, an impressive prow of gabbro which appears to block the way from a distance but is in fact easily passed to the right.

Eag Dubh

A little after this the ridge narrows and a diminutive summit cairn marks the northern and highest summit of Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh (973m; peak of torment). The summit ridge of this fine mountain forms a twin-peaked sharp ridge which is the narrowest rock arête in Britain. Nowhere is it technically difficult but a steady head and sure foot is required throughout and the traverse of the mountain is totally absorbing. Do it on a fine day when this aerial walkway will give you one of your most memorable UK mountain experiences – but do it!

Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh From Sgurr a' Mhadaidh

If you decide to continue south from here, as I did earlier in the week, there are no escape routes off the ridge for some way so be warned. The ridge continues south-west from Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh past the rock pinnacles of the Three Teeth and over the cone of Sgurr Thormaid to the next Munro: Sgurr na Banachdich. Further on again and you come to Sgurr Dearg and its iconic summit prominence, the Inaccessible Pinnacle (which loomed out of the mist and was deserted today). You can then escape westwards down a good path back to Glen Brittle.

A Misty and Deserted Inaccessible Pinnacle

Today, however, the 3 of us returned to An Dorus and successfully negotiated the difficult step and made good our descent back the way we had come. One brief shower on the way down but still no golden eagles! The next day Michael and Chris endured a magnificent 10-hour day and secured their last 2 Cuillin Munros. Job done – as they say in Ireland! I bet some Guinness was downed that night....

The Ochil Hills

2010-05-02T23:02:00.019+01:00

The Southern Wall of the Ochil Hills

Cool but clear weather this bank holiday weekend induced me to drive north to Dollar and explore the much-vaunted Ochil Hills, many locals’ favourite uplands. Ochil comes from the ancient Brittonic/Celtic word uchel = high. Their most impressive feature (by some margin) is the wall of steep grassy slopes arranged in a uniform line above the hillfoot towns of Menstrie, Alva, Tillicoultry and Dollar. The hills themselves extend for some 30km between Bridge of Allan and Auchterarder forming a dissected plateau of eroded lava flows that averages about 600m in height. The Ochils offer a number of circular options from the hillfoot towns with paths leading into steep-sided glens and up the numerous spurs that the higher ground throws down on to the flatlands of the mid-Forth valley. Today I planned one of the longer options: a 5-hour circuit from Dollar that would take in the Ochil’s highest point, Ben Cleugh.

Bank Hill and King's Seat Hill

Dollar has a nice rural feel about it and the town planners have done well to maximise the town’s position immediately below Dollar Glen. A hill road winds up alongside the Dollar Burn past the golf club to the first of 2 strategically placed car parks; these give a useful head start in elevation. I followed the lane up past Castle Campbell which is currently undergoing restoration work and is consequently shrouded in scaffolding and cladding. Then it was up the eastern tributary of the Dollar Burn, the beautifully named Water of Care (the other tributary bears the equally evocative title, the Water of Sorrow). The path is a right-of-way much-used in olden days for travel between Dunfermline and Blackford by, amongst others, chanters: travelling salesmen who were keen to avoid road tolls using the more conventional routes.

Ben Cleugh From King's Seat Hill

Just below the watershed before the Maiden’s Well, strike up the grassy hillside to your left and make a rising traverse for Whitewisp Hill (643m) which marks the eastern end of the higher Ochils. Great name for a hill! From here it’s a steady plod over a broad grassy ridge never undulating more than 100m and following an old fence past Tarmangie Hill (645m), Skythorn Hill, Andrew Gannel Hill (670m) and finally the highest point in the Ochils, Ben Cleuch (721m; hill of the ravine).

Summit View South From Ben Cleugh

An Ordnance Survey trig point and view indicator adorn the summit which gives wide views in all directions: west to Dumyat, the Campsie Fells and Ben Lomond; north to the ubiquitous twins of Ben Vorlich and Stuc a’Chroin, and the Ben Lawers group; east as far as the Lomond Hills, Bass Rock and North Berwick Law; and south to the Pentlands and Tinto Hill. Of closer interest though (and the hill’s best feature by some way) is the view down into Mill Glen which feeds into Tillicoultry. This aspect probably gives the hill its name.

Distant Stuc a'Chroin and Ben Vorlich From Ben Cleugh

After a fairly cool and breezy pause to take in the view, it was time to turn for home back over Andrew Gannel Hill and on to King’s Seat Hill (648m) where a large boulder cairn and windbreak mark the last summit of the day. The name may come from this being the reputed sight from where King Malcolm Canmore would observe his hunt. Maybe... From here Dollar fills the view once again as a good path descends steadily past some ice-scoured landslip troughs – the Banks of Dollar – and Bank Hill (346m). This brings you neatly down into Dollar Glen, a spectacular tree-lined gorge full of interest and spectacle. After hours of gentle plodding over drab grassland the world becomes a striking mix of cascading torrents, rich, vivid green vegetation, plummeting ravines and narrow cliff trails perched in places on timber walkways. Where the Burns of Sorrow and Care meet, Castle Campbell sits isolated on its Hill of Gloom, it’s impressive aura spoilt only by the temporary shroud of protective restoration cladding.

Castle Campbell

I returned to the car down the wee lane accompanied by the therapeutic sounds of the tinkling birdsong and cascading rhythm of the Dollar Burn, and the sweet, sweet aroma of Spring. It must be time to return once more to the Highlands, Skye is calling....

The Lomond Hills From Above Dollar Glen

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Return of the Sun

2010-04-12T21:38:00.009+01:00

Allermuir Hill and Castlelaw Hill from the Head of Flotterstone Glen

After the snowiest UK winter I can remember, the sun has returned to lighten the spirit and quicken the step. Temperatures in the high teens earlier this week prompted a return to the nearby Pentland Hills for some airy ridge-walking in the warm sunshine. Shorts, t-shirt and sun cream received their first outing of the year and a 7-hour romp from Balerno to Flotterstone and back (inclusive of pub lunch and a spot of sunbathing) made for a memorable day. I was going to cycle but the prospect of walking the tops in the sun was just too great; and you can cycle any day!

Green Cleugh

Leaving the car at Threipmuir Reservoir, I followed the road to Bavelaw Castle and on to the solid path that winds its way through the steep defile of Green Cleugh (green ravine) which gives access into the heart of the Pentlands. Soon after crossing the 350m summit of the cleugh I struck up the hillside to the right, crossed the Logan Burn and climbed up on to the steep cone of West Kip (from the Celtic word caep = pointed hill; 551m). From the narrow, if short, summit ridge of this pretty wee hill, views opened out in all directions although the heat haze precluded any long distance views. The main spine of the Pentlands now led north-eastwards over East Kip (534m) and up on to Scald Law (579m), the highest point in the range. Then it was down steeply, and back up equally steeply on to bulky Carnethy Hill (from ancient British word carneddau - hill of the cairns; 573m) before the final drop and climb on to grassy Turnhouse Hill (506m).

The Kips

From here the scenery softens as you descend down into Flotterstone Glen past some distinctive wind-sculptured larches and down to the Glencorse Burn. This is crossed just before you join the aptly named Glen Road for the short walk to the Flotterstone Inn and a welcome lunch in the sun in the beer garden.

The Pentland Spine from West Kip

On resuming the walk, the nearby ranger centre is worth a few minutes of your time if you want to learn something about the water industry in the glen. Then it was back up Glen Road, diverting left to take in the old filter beds via a path that follows the burn up a narrow wooded gorge before returning to the road near Glen Cottage. I followed the road alongside Glencorse Reservoir for a mile before turning right up the path to Harlaw. This well-made path climbs up through Maiden's Cleugh between Bell’s Hill and Harbour Hill to a gate/stile at 350m before descending across moorland and then through fields to another ranger centre at Harlaw. Here, Scottish Water played its late afternoon joker by closing off my return route to the car by deciding to rebuild the dam of Harlaw Reservoir! Fortunately, I avoided having to detour all the way to Balerno by finding a conveniently placed footpath through Balleny Farm which got me back to the car without too many additional miles!

This circular route from Threipmuir (equally done from Harlaw) has much to commend it - and not just on a warm sunny day! The topography, scenery and views are constantly changing, you get an excellent feel for the Pentland Hills, and the only pub on the route is perfectly placed after most of the hard work is done. Enjoy!

Descending Turnhouse Hill

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Cairngorms

2010-03-24T20:57:00.001Z

Lairig Ghru

It has been wild and wintery on the Cairngorms plateau this week but a walk through Rothiemurchus forest gave some softer images as winter slowly gives way to spring:

Braeriach

Lochan Deo

Meall a'Bhuachaille

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Ben Lomond

2010-03-16T21:35:00.003Z

Ben Lomond

The opportunity to complete a 3rd ascent of Scotland’s most southerly Munro presented itself this week and was readily grasped given some good weather, clear tops and the lingering challenge of winter conditions on high. This is a straightforward, uncomplicated Munro with a well-engineered path that climbs steadily through some de-forested woodland and over a broad grassy shoulder before zigzagging up a short sharp ramp. This puts you on the impressive summit ridge that arcs around a precipitous north-eastern corrie.

Up Loch Lomond to the Arrochar Alps

The car park at Rowardennan was surprisingly busy for a midweek morning in March and bets were soon laid on the chances of a family of 3 clad in trainers and shorts setting foot on the summit! Following the deforestation of the lower slopes, the mountain is visible for much of the early stages and 20 mins normally sees you out of the remaining trees and on to the open hillside. A great view of Loch Lomond opens out to the south and further afield, the Ochils, Central Belt and even the Pentland Hills can be seen on clear days!

Delicate Footwork on the Summit Ridge

As expected, snow and ice were still very much in evidence on the summit ridge and care was again needed to negotiate the summit ridge up to the solitary trig point. Given several days of higher temperatures and the southerly aspect of the mountain’s main route of ascent, the snow was generally soft enough to take a boot and wherever ice was encountered, it could be by-passed without having to revert to ice axe or crampons.

The Summit

The view north encompassed the familiar Arrochar Alps, the Crianlarich hills and a distant Ben Lawers away to the north-east. A young woman on the summit clad in full winter gear announced she was making good use of a month off work by working her way up the western Highlands. And with that, she cheerfully picked up her ice axe and headed off for Torridon!

The View South Across Loch Lomond

The descent was swift and many groups were passed, still heading up this popular and accessible peak which probably has more repeat ascents (amongst Glaswegians, in particular) than most other Munros. Unsurprisingly, there was no sign of the family in trainers!

On the way home, I couldn’t resist the temptation of having my photograph taken at the beginning of the West Highland Way. Not a walk that particularly appeals to this stravaiger of the Scottish mountains, but it was fun to pretend for a few minutes and to be wished good luck by a few good folk of Milngavie!

The Imposter!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Ben Vane - Again!

2010-03-13T20:10:00.007Z

Ben Vane

Yet another visit to the Arrochar Alps this weekend and a return to that straightforward and uncomplicated wee Munro - Ben Vane. Hah!

The southern highland glens are all free of snow now. Up top, the snow is largely confined to the upper half of the higher peaks. When you do encounter the snow, it is generally soft and patchy. But as you climb higher....

Rainbow on Ben Vorlich

The ascent route was the normal one from Inveruglas viewpoint and up Coire Grogain(see Feb 10 entry). A cold NW wind took the edge off the warmish sunshine and the summits of the surrounding peaks were generally clear. A large number of assorted groups of walkers heralded the approach of Spring and improving weather. The steep 600m flog up the SE face of Ben Vane was as unrelenting as always but widening views across to Ben Vorlich and the other Arrochar Alps provided welcome distraction from the toiling. Best of all though, the shapely white cone of Ben Lomond stood out clearly to the SE looking mightily impressive in its winter raiment.

Ben Lomond

Once on the summit ridge of Ben Vane things changed markedly and rapidly. The snow suddenly hardened to an icy crust, a strong bitter wind made walking difficult and the air temperature dropped significantly! The remaining 300m distance to the summit cairn proved to be a real struggle. Ice axe replaced trekking poles (got very close to donning crampons), mittens replaced gloves and everything suddenly became a real challenge. Fortunately, after struggling up one particular icy step, the cairn finally hove into view and a brief sense of achievement interrupted the hard concentration. In such conditions, a brief pause on the summit was all that was required and an about turn was followed by another 20 mins of ‘careful does it’ before easier conditions were encountered and a straightforward descent accomplished back down the mountain.

On the Icy Summit Ridge

This was a singular lesson in Scottish winter hillwalking. Apparently benign conditions in the glen belying a different world of winter hazards on the summits all waiting to ensnare the unprepared or unequipped walker. Take care folks and always carry ice axe and crampons between November and April – or be prepared to turn back as soon as your boots strikes ice!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Springtime in the Pentlands

2010-03-06T21:00:00.007Z

Glencorse Reservoir

After almost 3 months of snow, the sun has finally come out and struggled high enough into the sky to give a little warmth! Suddenly, everyone’s talking about Spring and buds and bulbs everywhere are beginning to poke nervous green shoots out of the thawing ground. The Pentland Hills near Edinburgh have had their fair share of snow this winter and have at times been plastered completely in deep powder. During the last few days though, the snow has finally started to recede and the combination of sun, snow and increasing daylight suggested a wander into these unpretentious uplands would give a handsome reward.

Walking in from the Flotterstone Inn and up the metalled road past Glencorse Reservoir, everything was bathed in warm sunshine and people, dogs and children were everywhere. The reservoir was still partly frozen though and a lingering chill in the air provided a necessary reminder that Spring still had some way to go before it would need to start paying council tax! This road walk was very much the preferred option today as the hill routes would have proved to be a messy and tiring struggle in soft snow and saturated ground. However, given the settled weather forecast for the next week or so, this is likely to be a temporary state of affairs and a return to the higher routes will not be far off now.

East Kip and Loganlea Reservoir

A friendly fisherman stopped to bemoan the paucity of gullible rainbow trout in the reservoir and he trundled off seeking a more rewarding spot from which to cast his line. A typically scatty collection of Pentland sheep got themselves into a manic state of distress and quite unnecessarily launched themselves across the icy waters of the Logan Burn in order to escape a non-existent threat from innocent walkers. Having reached Loganlea Reservoir, the upper reservoir in the glen, a growing appetite for a late lunch suggested an about turn and the road was followed back down to the Flotterstone Inn car park. Again, the winning combination of sun and snow – now both beginning to lose their influence on the scene – provided a stunning backdrop to the late afternoon landscape.

These soft, rolling hills were beautiful today and there convenience, being so close to Edinburgh, and what they have to offer, should not be underestimated. But now it’s time to return to the high mountains and some not too distant Munros are calling.......

Castlelaw Hill and Glencorse Reservoir

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm