To Skye With The Mighty Quinn(s)!

Loch Coruisk

This has not been a classic May so far, weather-wise, on the Misty Isle. But it was OK for my return last week when the highlight of the week was meeting up with the Quinn brothers, Michael and Chris who were closing in on their last 4 Cuillin Munros. Having warmed up on the Five Sisters of Kintail, they met up with me at Glen Brittle Youth Hostel where we decided which of the 4 remaining peaks the conditions would lend themselves to. In the event, we elected for the relatively safe route up into Coire a' Ghreadaidh to climb the 2 central peaks of Sgurr a' Mhadaidh and Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh.

Coire a' Ghreadaidh

The path leads up alongside the delightful waterfalls and rock pools that the Allt a' Choire Ghreadaidh has created to add interest to its relentless journey down the mountainside to the sea. Louseworts and milkworts provided some rare colour by the path but there was no sign of the golden eagle sighting I had rashly promised Michael. A passing shower dampened only the gore-tex as our spirits remained high given the rapid progress this route makes up on to the higher ground. You might expect any mountain day with the Irish to be entertaining and the boys didn’t let me down. I now know an awful lot more about the differences between Scottish and Irish Gaelic, how to service a Boeing 737, and the development of Soviet-Irish diplomatic relations, than I did last week! Cloud shrouded the ridgeline and did so for much of the day but we could clearly see our route up on to the scree and into our gateway to the skyline: An Dorus (the door), a sharp defile that provides a rare access route on to the main Cuillin ridge.

An Dorus

Whilst An Dorus itself is easily attained, it takes a tricky rock step to climb out of it on either side and a steady head – and hold or two – is required to make onward progress. One of these can be avoided on the left by leaving the gulley about 20m below the ridge and working your way up shaley ledges before scrambling up on to the rather anti-climactic summit of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh (918m; peak of the foxes). Just north of this summit the Cuillin ridge makes a 90 degree turn eastwards before continuing on to the northern peaks that culminate in the shapely spire of Sgurr nan Gillean. The only view we got today was of the day’s other objective: one of the Cuillin’s finest peaks: Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh. We returned to An Dorus the same way thus avoiding one difficult step; but there was no escaping the second one which gets you on your way southwards.

Sgurr a' Mhadaidh

Soon after leaving An Dorus you come across the rock crevice of Eag Dubh (black notch) which has been sliced out of the ridge and is narrow enough to give an Asda shopper a tight squeeze. It can however be avoided to the left and the ridge is again followed up past the Wart, an impressive prow of gabbro which appears to block the way from a distance but is in fact easily passed to the right.

Eag Dubh

A little after this the ridge narrows and a diminutive summit cairn marks the northern and highest summit of Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh (973m; peak of torment). The summit ridge of this fine mountain forms a twin-peaked sharp ridge which is the narrowest rock arête in Britain. Nowhere is it technically difficult but a steady head and sure foot is required throughout and the traverse of the mountain is totally absorbing. Do it on a fine day when this aerial walkway will give you one of your most memorable UK mountain experiences – but do it!

Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh From Sgurr a' Mhadaidh

If you decide to continue south from here, as I did earlier in the week, there are no escape routes off the ridge for some way so be warned. The ridge continues south-west from Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh past the rock pinnacles of the Three Teeth and over the cone of Sgurr Thormaid to the next Munro: Sgurr na Banachdich. Further on again and you come to Sgurr Dearg and its iconic summit prominence, the Inaccessible Pinnacle (which loomed out of the mist and was deserted today). You can then escape westwards down a good path back to Glen Brittle.

A Misty and Deserted Inaccessible Pinnacle

Today, however, the 3 of us returned to An Dorus and successfully negotiated the difficult step and made good our descent back the way we had come. One brief shower on the way down but still no golden eagles! The next day Michael and Chris endured a magnificent 10-hour day and secured their last 2 Cuillin Munros. Job done – as they say in Ireland! I bet some Guinness was downed that night....

The Ochil Hills

The Southern Wall of the Ochil Hills

Cool but clear weather this bank holiday weekend induced me to drive north to Dollar and explore the much-vaunted Ochil Hills, many locals’ favourite uplands. Ochil comes from the ancient Brittonic/Celtic word uchel = high. Their most impressive feature (by some margin) is the wall of steep grassy slopes arranged in a uniform line above the hillfoot towns of Menstrie, Alva, Tillicoultry and Dollar. The hills themselves extend for some 30km between Bridge of Allan and Auchterarder forming a dissected plateau of eroded lava flows that averages about 600m in height. The Ochils offer a number of circular options from the hillfoot towns with paths leading into steep-sided glens and up the numerous spurs that the higher ground throws down on to the flatlands of the mid-Forth valley. Today I planned one of the longer options: a 5-hour circuit from Dollar that would take in the Ochil’s highest point, Ben Cleugh.

Bank Hill and King's Seat Hill

Dollar has a nice rural feel about it and the town planners have done well to maximise the town’s position immediately below Dollar Glen. A hill road winds up alongside the Dollar Burn past the golf club to the first of 2 strategically placed car parks; these give a useful head start in elevation. I followed the lane up past Castle Campbell which is currently undergoing restoration work and is consequently shrouded in scaffolding and cladding. Then it was up the eastern tributary of the Dollar Burn, the beautifully named Water of Care (the other tributary bears the equally evocative title, the Water of Sorrow). The path is a right-of-way much-used in olden days for travel between Dunfermline and Blackford by, amongst others, chanters: travelling salesmen who were keen to avoid road tolls using the more conventional routes.

Ben Cleugh From King's Seat Hill

Just below the watershed before the Maiden’s Well, strike up the grassy hillside to your left and make a rising traverse for Whitewisp Hill (643m) which marks the eastern end of the higher Ochils. Great name for a hill! From here it’s a steady plod over a broad grassy ridge never undulating more than 100m and following an old fence past Tarmangie Hill (645m), Skythorn Hill, Andrew Gannel Hill (670m) and finally the highest point in the Ochils, Ben Cleuch (721m; hill of the ravine).

Summit View South From Ben Cleugh

An Ordnance Survey trig point and view indicator adorn the summit which gives wide views in all directions: west to Dumyat, the Campsie Fells and Ben Lomond; north to the ubiquitous twins of Ben Vorlich and Stuc a’Chroin, and the Ben Lawers group; east as far as the Lomond Hills, Bass Rock and North Berwick Law; and south to the Pentlands and Tinto Hill. Of closer interest though (and the hill’s best feature by some way) is the view down into Mill Glen which feeds into Tillicoultry. This aspect probably gives the hill its name.

Distant Stuc a'Chroin and Ben Vorlich From Ben Cleugh

After a fairly cool and breezy pause to take in the view, it was time to turn for home back over Andrew Gannel Hill and on to King’s Seat Hill (648m) where a large boulder cairn and windbreak mark the last summit of the day. The name may come from this being the reputed sight from where King Malcolm Canmore would observe his hunt. Maybe... From here Dollar fills the view once again as a good path descends steadily past some ice-scoured landslip troughs – the Banks of Dollar – and Bank Hill (346m). This brings you neatly down into Dollar Glen, a spectacular tree-lined gorge full of interest and spectacle. After hours of gentle plodding over drab grassland the world becomes a striking mix of cascading torrents, rich, vivid green vegetation, plummeting ravines and narrow cliff trails perched in places on timber walkways. Where the Burns of Sorrow and Care meet, Castle Campbell sits isolated on its Hill of Gloom, it’s impressive aura spoilt only by the temporary shroud of protective restoration cladding.

Castle Campbell

I returned to the car down the wee lane accompanied by the therapeutic sounds of the tinkling birdsong and cascading rhythm of the Dollar Burn, and the sweet, sweet aroma of Spring. It must be time to return once more to the Highlands, Skye is calling....

The Lomond Hills From Above Dollar Glen

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm