GR54 – Hut-to-Hut in the French Alps

Classic GR54 Scenery

The Parc National des Écrins (Écrins National Park) is the largest and highest national park in France and the area it covers, one of the most challenging of alpine environments. The GR54 long distance footpath carves a circular route through and around these mountains and is considered to be one of the toughest multi-day treks in Europe. That said, no technical skills are required although some scrambling ability, sure-footedness and a reasonable head for heights all come in useful.

Le Sirac Dominates the Col de Vallonpierre

The GR54 runs to 110 miles in length, crosses 14 high passes and ascends almost 13,000m/42,000 ft. It is usually completed in 10-13 days. Our combined group of trekkers planned to undertake a 6-day circumnavigation of the most remote and challenging section of the route covering over 60 of those miles and crossing 9 of the high passes. This segment of the GR54 twists and turns around the flanks of high alpine peaks, climbs over high passes before plunging into deep, remote valleys far from most permanent settlements. The trail is generally clearly defined and well maintained although some exposed sections on the high passes require care.

Day 1

The trek began at the road-head west of the village of Vallouise, 20km SW of Briançon. We followed the path alongside a fast-flowing glacial stream through a pine-scented wooded valley in 30°stifling heat pausing frequently for rest and water!

The Climbing Begins!

Eventually the climbing begins, up over stony ground and some scree and then compacted shale (dodgy when wet) to the first of 2 cols: the Col de l’Aup Martin (2761m), the highest point on the GR54. Here the temperature was mercifully comfortable although we knew the heat would return on the descent. A short traverse over scree led to the Pas de la Cavale (2735m) en route to which, an unavoidable spray waterfall gave us all a refreshing shower!

Traversing Between the Cols

There then followed the first of several long weary descents steeply down to the grasslands of the Vallée de Champoléon and the first night’s accommodation at the Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette, a 62-bed mountain refuge at 1790m. This hut provided excellent facilities, good food and was constantly surrounded by marmots which provided a soundtrack of chirps and whistles to this welcome alpine fastness.

Day 2

Yesterday’s 2-col sweetener was trumped by today’s 3-col roller-coaster ride. An early start gave us shade and welcome coolness for the climb up the Vallon de la Pierre up switchbacks to the first high pass of the day: the Col de la Vallette (2668m). The path drops steeply from here, but not for long, before crossing a grassy valley to the Col de Gouiran (2597m).

Col de la Vallette

Some lingering snowfields and a charming lake provided some scenic interest and the traverse to the second col took only 45 mins. The descent from this col is more straightforward than the previous ones and crosses a series of eroded shaley ribs before climbing to the Col de Vallonpierre (2607m).

Col de la Vallette From Col de Gouiran

Much of today’s route circumnavigated the distinctive peak of Le Sirac (3441m) which looms above this last col. We resisted the good doctor’s exhortations to throw in an alpine ascent of a snow peak into our itinerary and enjoyed the spectacular views instead! We then descended steadily to the delightful, if crowded, Refuge de Vallonpierre standing on the edge of the glass-like Lac de Vallonpierre.

Le Sirac

After a break for lunch we continued down into the green wooded Vallée du Valgaudemar and our second night’s accommodation: the Refuge du Clot, a homely 50-bed hut surrounded by trees at 1400m. Another excellent meal, hut guardians Pierre and Caroline and some very friendly chickens (you had to be there) all combined to make a memorable evening. We even saw the only chamois of the trek – albeit a distant speck high on the valley wall!

Le Sirac From the Head of the Vallée du Valgaudemar

Day 3

Our third day began with an easy valley walk for 2 hrs before stopping for coffee and croissants at the only permanent settlement we came across, the small outdoor activity centre of La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar. A further hour along the valley floor to Villar-Loubière and we could put it off no longer: the 4hr hot, steep and dusty 1500m slog up to the Col de la Vaurze (2498m). This was definitely the crux of the whole week! The only respite was a brief drinks stop at the well-placed Refuge des Souffles (1975m).

Col de la Vaurze - the Crux!

There followed an interesting traverse across the upper valley headwall before more interminable switchbacks brought us to the Col de la Vaurze. From here we looked directly down on our night’s destination, Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey (1255m) nestling in the valley below – but it would still take another 2hrs to reach the hamlet from the col.

The Descent to Le Désert

The Gîte le Désert provided basic accommodation but the highlight of the stop-over was definitely the €1.20 a shot whisky the good doctor and I imbibed ourselves with for much of the evening whilst trying to work out why you can’t see the dark side of the moon (you had to be there)! Most agreeable.

Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey

Day 4

Following 3 big days, the walking was about to become a little easier and the days shorter as we entered the western part of the Écrins National Park. The scenery also becomes a little softer and the cols a little less austere. From Le Désert, we climbed in early morning comfort and on a good path to the grassy Col de Côte Belle (2290m) before descending through stands of alpenrose and pine forest to the village of Valsenestre (1294m).

The View South From the Col de Côte Belle

Beautiful and idyllic in mid-summer, the hamlet’s summer residents desert the place for winter before snow and avalanches cut off the valley! The very comfortable 25-bed Gîte Le Beranger provided excellent rooms, facilities and food for our valiant band of trekkers. The afternoon off was most welcome!

Day 5

Having originally planned to cover the trek in 6 days, we decided to combine the last 2 relatively easy days into one last big day. Although tiring, this would give us a full day off at the end of the trek for some welcome respite and maybe even lunch in Briançon! We started by returning along the previous day’s route for half an hour before climbing up through grass, then rock, and finally a steep shale cone to the Col de la Muzelle (2625m).

Col de la Muzelle

Much of this was achieved in welcome shade and a cool breeze before the temperature started rising again as we descended over snowfields (nice nose-dive Toity!) down into a grassy valley to the Lac de la Muzelle and its attendant Refuge de la Muzelle.

Col de la Muzelle From the Muzelle Refuge and Lake

Just before reaching the refuge we turned left for the 90-min climb up switchbacks to the Col du Vallon (2531m) our last high pass of the week. Soaring eagles and distant views of snowy peaks entertained us as we plodded ever upwards. There followed a long and twisting descent to the blue-green waters of one of the highlights of the whole GR54, the picturesque Lac Lauvitel (1540m). We just had to stop here in this sublime setting - the girls went for a swim and the guys paddled and everyone sunbathed (like we really needed more sun)! From the lake, a short 30 min descent brought us to journey’s end and a waiting car at the village of La Danchére.

Lac Lauvitel

Overall, we covered 95km and climbed 7260m! This is definitely the most challenging – and rewarding – part of the GR54 and we were not disappointed. If you are planning to check it out, the GR54 is usually attempted between mid-July and late September when snow and ice are normally no longer a factor. However, some isolated patches of late Spring snow may be encountered and for that reason it is prudent to consider carrying an ice axe if travelling early in the season. Otherwise, you can expect very warm weather (hot in the valleys) with the occasional afternoon thunderstorm. Oh, and have plenty of Radox waiting at home for when you get back!

Approaching the Col de la Muzelle

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/alpine/alpine.htm

The Five Summits

What a Team!

The good people of Gunnersbury Catholic School in west London came up with this great idea of running around the UK this summer and climbing the highest peaks in England, Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland and the Irish Republic. The only thing was, they elected to do them all in 5 days! It really did seem like a good idea at the time but as the day approached a wee bit of apprehension crept in over the enormity of the logistical and physical effort that would be required. In the event, it actually proved to be a brilliant idea, particularly as the boys raised a considerable amount of money for Macmillan’s Nurses! So my good self and 10 fine youngsters of the said school together with 3 staff to provide iron discipline (and that was just for me) met up at Birmingham Airport and well, what followed was something like this......

Snowdon (1085m)

Snowdon From the PYG Track

From the airport an empty M6 toll (only the Brits could ignore an empty motorway because of the extra toll) took us quickly towards north Wales. We even managed to find a parking place at Pen y Pass, an early indication of the good luck that was to follow us throughout the trip! A sunny afternoon saw us ready for the start up the much-improved PYG track from which even the most navigationally challenged walker would have difficulty straying!

Going Strongly for the Top!

The new cafe on the summit does what it has to do and is a big improvement on the dilapidated predecessor that (dis)graced the spot on countless previous visits. Snowdon will always be a busy mountain but it is still the greatest peak in Wales with grand ridges and impressive corries radiating out from it’s summit cone. Today, fellow walkers, helicopters and trains all combined to give the boys a taste of the Snowdon symphony.

Lliwedd and Llyn Glaslyn

Just over 2 hrs to the summit and a little quicker on the return down– and I remember when Snowdon used to take all day to conquer! Warm sunshine and great views accompanied us throughout and spirits were high. Oliver cut his finger on a rock near the summit; our first casualty. André asked a few questions, quite a few actually, and Liam started losing things, a habit he carefully crafted throughout the week! Fortunately, this didn't include his dad's expensive North Face jacket! It was a good start and the Swallow Falls youth hostel proved to be an ideal first night stop – even if William didn’t share his giant pizza with the staff!

Scafell Pike (978m)

Scafell Pike and Scafell Across Wastwater

Wasdale Head was a bit of a struggle to reach – they’d shut an access road and we ended up fighting our way up ever-narrowing country lanes to get to our start point. When we got there, a picnic of packed lunches in 23° afternoon sunshine melted the road miles away. Then it was up the good path alongside Lingmell Beck up Brown Tongue and Hollow Stones to the Lingmell Col and on to the boulder-strewn summit of England’s highest (but far from most distinguished) peak.

England's Highest Point

Again, quite a few folk were about undertaking evening ascents and a few straggly sheep grazed the grassy slopes – far fewer than there used to be. The usual sunshine and expansive views flavoured the summit experience. Oliver tripped on the way down and added yet more battle scars to his ever-receptive body. We returned down the same way in the evening sun to the former country mansion that now does for the Wasdale Hall youth hostel.

Evening Light on Wastwater

Another 4-hr saunter for the boys who were carrying all before them. Two down and only 3 to go now – and just a 6-hr minibus ride to the next challenge, the mighty Ben. And the weather forecast was on the dire side of absolutely atrocious....

Ben Nevis (1344m)

Ben Nevis

The boys were mightily impressed with the Green Welly Stop at Tyndrum. A feast of carbohydrates provided the ideal energy source for the impending haul up Ben Nevis. Very fortunately for us, the expected buckets of rain, 70mph winds and odd locust had all lost interest by the time we left the Glen Nevis youth hostel and walked up the tourist track rapidly shredding all our waterproofs and fleeces! Tom stuck doggedly to his Arsenal hat but there was nothing else to spoil the view! Having prepared the boys for the worse they must have been wondering what all the fuss was about. The promise of some snow on the summit helped restore some of my street cred!

High Above Glen Nevis

Having generally climbed the Ben in full winter conditions in recent years, this summer evening stroll up the much-repaired tourist path (with yet more welcome repair work underway above the Red Burn) proved to be a bit of a doddle with the boys striding manfully for the summit as the clouds lifted and even the bloody sun came out. Again! Even André stopped asking ‘is that the top?’ The summit was reached in only 2¾ hrs, a most creditable achievement by the guys who were climbing only their 3rd British mountain and in only 3 days!

High Point of the Trip!

Having set off late in the day we were expecting to have Ben Nevis to ourselves. In the event we were accompanied by 120 runners, walkers and staggerers from the Joint Service 3 Peaks Challenge. It made for a busy mountain. After a short stop on the summit we descended past a lingering snow patch where the boys were able to vent their inexhaustible energy with a snowball fight in July!

Gunnersbury Snowball Fight - in July!

Then it was down once again in evening sunshine to the youth hostel with dry clothes. Again! All was well with the party; even Oliver made it through unscathed! Surely our luck couldn’t last and the weather gods would get their revenge once we crossed the sea to Ireland...

Slieve Donard (850m)

'Where the Mountains of Mourne Sweep Down to the Sea'

An interminable drive across south-west Scotland to Stranraer was never going to be the highlight of the trip! What a rubbish location for a ferry terminal for sailings to Northern Ireland – you take ages to get there and then spend the first 45 mins of the crossing heading north out of Loch Ryan! Things improved though after a nice supper on the boat and gannets were diving into the harbour as we sailed into Belfast. A short drive in the gathering dusk brought us to Newcastle ‘where the mountains of Mourne sweep down to the sea’.

Glen River Path

Slieve Donard, named after an Irish saint, dominates the seaside town and is just begging to be climbed. The Slieve Donard Hotel was conveniently situated across the road from our humble youth hostel and some of the elder members of the party were able to partake in a rare opportunistic dram or two. The hotel guests paid us no mind resplendent in our hill gear and boots! Our money was as good as theirs and anyway, some of the wedding guests looked in far worse shape than we did! The next morning the boys led us out of town through Donard Park and up the Glen River path to the Mourne Wall.

So Where's This Wall Everyone Keeps Talking About?

This impressive structure was built to enclose a reservoir catchment area in the early 20th Century and is 22 miles long! It provided much-needed employment to many who needed it at the time. The boys followed the wall straight up to the huge summit marker (2½ hrs from the hostel) from where views north to the Belfast hills and south to rapidly approaching shower clouds gave food for thought!

Looking Back to Newcastle

Sure enough it was time for the gore-tex and we got a right soaking on the first part of the descent before normal service was resumed and sunshine returned as we descended back down into Newcastle.

Slieve Donard Summit Cairn

Some local runners were out and about in training for the Seven Mournes race. They were hardy souls in shorts and running tops and weren't about to let a sudden burst of Irish rain spoil their day. On the way back through what was now a pretty crowded seaside town one of the party slipped back from the main group and partook of the output of a local fish and chip shop - for research purposes only you understand. After a quick change we readied ourselves for the 7-hr drive across the Emerald Isle to our last summit.

Carrauntoohil (1038m)

Carrauntoohil and Beenkeragh

The Black Valley hostel nestling in the delightfully named Macgillycuddy’s Reeks (reeks = black stacks) proved to be an admirable home for our last night although we had to wait for the morning to see what it looked like – and where exactly we were – in daylight! The excitement began with a fallen tree across the access road which caused a few thinks bubbles amongst the team before the resourceful Mr Cronin turned up with his chainsaw. Nothing was going to stop the boys at this late stage! The weather at last took the upper hand and we were clad head-to-toe in gore-tex for our walk from Cronin’s Yard up the wide track which we were sharing with a fast flowing stream coming in the opposite direction! We would have had problems getting through but some new bridges and strategically placed stepping stones saved the day.

Don't Try This at Home!

Ronan’s glasses needed wipers for the wipers as the rain showed no sign of relenting as we fought our way up Hag’s Glen. The skyline is generally accessed by climbing the Devil’s Ladder which we approached with some intrepidation. This loose boulder-filled gulley is severely eroded and requires great care. The path, what there is of it, winds its delicate way up as the water flows freely down and a considerable amount of work is required here to stabilise the scree. An alternative path climbs up safer slopes a little to the east and should be taken by everyone - but it is not well marked just where it needs to be and could not be easily identified in the conditions. We proceeded up the ladder with extreme caution.

The Devil's Ladder

It was a relief to reach the skyline even if we were exposed to a cool gusty wind for the final climb to the summit of Carrauntoohil (Tuathal's sickle). William was asked to lead the way and look after his party – and promptly got ‘leader’s legs’ and marched off into the mist never to be seen again! It's OK mum, we soon caught up with him and there, looming out of the murk, was the 16ft high iron cross that adorns this highest point of the Irish Republic.

The Final Summit

There was quite a crowd on the summit but no-one there could match the achievement of the Gunnersbury boys. Quite rightly, the clouds parted and we were rewarded with wide views over County Kerry and the none-too-distant sea. With ferries to catch and flights to take we turned for home. Deciding against pushing our luck on a risky descent down the Devil’s Ladder, we traversed the ridge and descended down the safer path to the east which was now clearly visible. Typically, the eagle-eyed youngsters realised this necessitated a short climb and I’m sure I detected some quiet muttering in the ranks!

Getting Blown Away!

However, in true Gunnersbury fashion the cloud lifted and the sun came out for our return to the minibus. As we approached the car park you just knew that if you threw a football in to the adjacent farmer’s field the boys wouldn’t hesitate to run off and play a quick 5-a-side such was their unbounded energy. We adults would have loved to have joined them but looking after 10 miniature whirlwinds for 5 days ensuring they coped with all of the costume changes and didn’t hurl themselves down steep grassy slopes had taken its toll! I was deposited at Cork airport exhausted but sorry to see them go. We’d had a ball. The flight back from Cork proved memorable for one reason only – I got to close my eyes in Ireland and open them again in Scotland.

Me and Da Boys!

A big thank you to Paul Muncer, Tim Hayes and Steve Shillcock for their great company and support throughout the week and to my new buddies André, Adrian, Charlie, Joe, Joshua, Liam, Oliver, Ronan, Tom and William. Their resilience and endeavour knew no bounds throughout this amazing tour de force through the British Isles where they climbed unaided to 5 mighty summits in 5 short days. Well done guys – it was a pleasure to be on the hills with you.

Joshua's Logo for the Team Shirts