Lochaber 2012

Ben Nevis & Carn Mor Dearg

The last trip of the year (definitely; maybe) saw some great autumnal weather (with the exception of one snow blizzard!) and some quality hillwalking.  We also found time for some challenging winter navigation practise!  Based in Fort William, Leanne, Fiona and myself ventured forth each day to all 4 points of the compass attaining 7 Munro summits and covering over 50km of assorted tarmac road, estate tracks, hill paths and quality mountain bog!

Glen Coe - Buachaille Etive Beag

In view of Leanne’s 5-train trek from Norfolk and the lack of readily-available lumpy mountain things in that part of the country, we opted for a modest first day.  Driving around to Glen Coe, we parked at 250m just above The Study and set off up a relatively new - and excellent - path that took us all the way to the skyline at the bealach that splits the short 2km-long ridge of Buachaille Etive Beag (little shepherd of Etive).

Stob Dubh From Stob Coire Raineach

Much of the ridge remained in cloud all day but there was no rain and we did get occasional views across to Buachaille Etive Mor and Glen Coe.  There are 2 Munros here, one at each end of the ridge, and it doesn’t matter which order you tackle them.  We opted for the southern end first and an easy 1½km of cloud-swathed ridge walking took us to the summit cairn of Stob Dubh (958m; black peak).  No view, but no problem – we were off and running and in the mountains!

Glen Coe

The pained roar of rutting stags was a persistent soundtrack to our short day in the clouds.  We retraced our steps to the bealach before tackling the short easy climb to our 2^nd Munro – Stob Coire Raineach (925m; peak of the corrie of bracken).   The ascent of Buachaille Etive Beag offers one of the easiest, and certainly most straightforward, double Munro days in the Highlands.  As such, it’s a useful first or last day to keep up your sleeves on a trip to these parts!

Glenfinnan – Sgurr nan Coireachan & Sgurr Thuilm

For Day 2, we were thinking of tackling the serrated and pinnacled ridge of Aonach Eagach that borders the N side of Glen Coe.  However, thick cloud at dawn and the prospect of clambering along one of Scotland’s finest ridges in cold, damp and viewless murk prompted a rethink.  Accordingly, we headed west to Glen Finnan, home (thanks to H Potter) of the now famous eponymous viaduct.  Typically, no sooner were we on our way when the cloud started to clear but not before giving us some fabulous atmospherics as walked up the glen towards our 2 Munros.

Early Morning Atmospherics in Glen Finnan

There has been considerable hydro and forestry work going on up the glen so be prepared to see new tracks (roads really) everywhere as you wander up from the car park.  The start of the excellent stalker’s path up Sgurr nan Coireachan is clearly marked though (1½km beyond Corryhully bothy) and it’s still the best way of doing these hills i.e. clockwise.  All the clouds then disappeared and we were left with blue skies for much of the day.  Apart from nearly taking Fiona out with a loose rock half way up the climb, it was an uneventful ascent and there were no further near-death experiences as we continued steadily upwards!  

Lunch!

A spot of lunch by a delightful pool and then the first Munro of the day was ours:  Sgurr nan Coireachan (956m; peak of the corries).

Sgurr nan Coireachan

The connecting ridge to Sgurr Thuilm which is effectively the crest of the headwall to Glen Finnan is longer than it looks with quite a few ups and downs and the odd delicate step.  However, there are great views north over Glen Pean and the Rough Bounds of Knoydart and to the west to the Inner Hebrides.  A line of rusting fence posts help mark the way, not that we needed any help on this fine day.

Sgurr Thuilm

Soon after the penultimate hump of the ridge, you can bear left over open ground and take a direct line for the summit of Sgurr Thuilm (963m; peak of the rounded hillock).  Some thin cloud spoiled the summit views but we couldn’t complain.  It was then just a matter of following the long ridge down off the mountain, initially S and then SW over Druim Coire a’ Bheithe to the valley floor.  The path (greasy lower down) leads to the upgraded hydro track just before the new concrete sluice dam.  In failing light we traipsed wearily back down the main glen to the car under a stunning moon and increasingly starry skies.  A long (22km; 9 hrs) day, but very rewarding and with plenty to take in.  Best save it for some nice weather though! 

   

The Viaduct

Aonach Mor & Aonach Beag

Following the previous day’s exertions, we were all happy for something shorter and the ladies were also interested in trying out some winter navigation.  We left one car at the road-end in Glen Nevis and took the Nevis Range gondola to 650m before heading up the line of the Warrens ski run to the beckoning skyline.  The weather had turned decidedly wintery with a cold wind and a menacing threat of winter showers.  We reached the skyline in cloud but not before spotting ptarmigan and a mountain hare as well as evidence of pine martins from the occasional pile of undigested rowan berries!

Leanne Gets Her Winter Hillwalking Tick!

Soon after starting the micro-nav session on top of the mountain, however, everything changed and a ferocious snow shower swept in on the back of a ferociously cold wind.  This provided just a little too much realism for the ladies who nevertheless clung on to their maps and compasses to guide us straight to the diminutive summit cairn of Aonach Mor (1221m; big ridge). 

Ben Nevis

Then it was quickly on S in deepening snow (and lowering temperatures) to the bealach immediately before the short  steep climb up on to Aonach Beag (1234m; little ridge).  Navigation and blizzard demonstration over, we wasted no time in descending the mountain’s SW ridge and suddenly stepping out of the cloud to be greeted by wonderfully clear views across to Ben Nevis and the Mamores.

Clouds Clearing over the Mamores

We picked up the Glen Nevis path at Steall and descended through the gorge to the waiting car and some much-cherished heat!   

Beinn Teallach

Temperatures remained low and the threat of more winter showers and perhaps some sustained snow suggested a more straightforward day.  Accordingly, we headed E for the 2^nd lowest Munro of them all which, with a reasonably high start-point, seemed to tick all the boxes.

Beinn Teallach

If a hill could be boring (which, obviously, they can’t be), this would be one of them!  The track through the forest from Roughburn gets you away from the trees and then an unproblematic river crossing and a squelchy path lead you to the corner of another plantation.  Here, the open hillside climbs uniformly for 500m to deposit you at a very shallow saddle and the choice of 2 cairns!  As ever, it’s best to take in both of them to guard against future surveys and re-classification!  We were rewarded with good views given that the expected winter showers failed to materialise.  That said, the brisk N wind ensured we were well wrapped up for most of the short day – Beinn Teallach (915m; hill of the forge).

The View South From Beinn Teallach

The return was a straightforward reversal of the upward route except for a tiny wee diversion through the woods where I just managed to avoid us being swallowed up by some very inconveniently placed quagmires!  Sorry girls; it seemed like a good idea at the time…..

Glen Nevis

With Fiona returning to Glasgow, Leanne was content to undertake a more modest walk along Glen Nevis to the ancient hill fort of Dun Deardail.  Unsurprisingly for such a fortification, this sits in a commanding position just off the West Highland Way where that route crosses into Glen Nevis at 330m.  Perfect – if cold - autumnal weather made for a pleasurable walk up through the forest accompanied by the occasional small bird sighting and associated birdsong.  Across the glen, Ben Nevis appeared to be unusually quiet for a Saturday morning and there weren’t many about on such a fine day.  Come early afternoon, however, and an ominous sheet of dark cloud appeared from the NW and rolled inexorably in replacing the blue sky, sun and frost.  Just after returning to the car the first raindrops appeared and by late afternoon in was fair persisting it down.  It was the only rain we saw all week!

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

    

Torridon 2012

Rainbow Over Beinn Eighe

Ben Nevis

Last week started with another ascent of Ben Nevis with Mike from Canada who accomplished an impressive up-and-down in just over 5 hrs.  We delayed the climb by a day whilst yet another decaying hurricane brushed the NW coast of Britain.  This enforced an early start the following morning (a bit of a shock, I can tell you)!  However, any thoughts of a quiet mountain were soon quashed as hundreds of Ben Nevis and Three Peaks charity walkers were already swarming up the mountain!

Busy Ben!

Our early start did, however, provide the best weather window of the day and we had a clear summit (of sorts) as reward for our efforts.  We were down by 2 and soon away – Mike with a long drive to London to endure and myself with a much-anticipated return to Torridon and the greatest mainland mountains in the country!

Gardyloo Gulley

Torridon

As it turned out, we didn’t actually climb many mountains, not that the week was any less enjoyable for that.  Jacqui’s return to full fitness did not quite extend to climbing up and down the soaring sandstone terraces of the Torridon inselbergs. So I made alternative arrangements with her and Yvonne whilst more experienced hillwalker Peter agreed to try the bigger stuff by himself.  Plans for a mid-week traverse of Liathach were also scuppered when he was called away to a job interview.  I told you it was a funny old week!

Slioch From Fionn Bheinn

We did all start together, however, with a short drive to Achnasheen for an attempt at Fionn Bheinn, the most southerly of the Fannaichs and a straightforward grassy hill blessed with a high start and modest Munro height.  The ladies made a good go at it, traipsing through unseasonably wet bog, peat hags and grass towards what turned out to be an elusive summit.  Some 200m shy of the trig point, we gave up the chase and turned for home, leaving Peter to continue and claim his 10^th Munro. 

Fionn Bheinn

Over the next few days, whilst Peter enjoyed 4-season weather whilst traversing Slioch and Beinn Alligin, I showed the girls some of the more interesting and entertaining low-level walks in this part of the world.  There are plenty of them!

Glen Docherty & Loch Maree

The Fairy Lochs above Badachro near Gairloch are always good for dreich days.  They can be a sombre experience though, bearing as they do, a sad yet touching memorial to young US servicemen whose journey home after the war was tragically cut short when their Liberator aircraft crashed here.  Aircraft debris still lies scattered around the lochs together with flags, plaques and wreaths.  In bleak weather, this can be  a mournful place in every sense.  Uplifting too.

Fuar Tholl

Next day we drove around to Achnashellach for the ever-pleasant climb up into Coire Lair.  The heavy showers were short-lived and the gaps between them thankfully long as we set off through the rhododendrons.  Crossing the railway line by the station, we climbed through the mixed woodland and up the excellent stalkers path below the towering cliffs of Fuar Tholl and into the corrie.  All the encircling mountains were in full view for much of the time and it was a grand day out.  This walk never disappoints.

                                    

Coire Lair

Wednesday took us to the Torridon Inn and another hill path that starts up through rampaging rhododendrons and then Caledonian pines onto the open hillside.  This time it was another favourite wet weather alternative of mine, the hill path up Beinn Damh.  

Beinn Damh

We emerged above the tree line and stopped a short way on beside a very photogenic sequence of pools, rapids and a 30m waterfall as the Allt Coire Roill tumbles down to Loch Torridon.  Beinn Alligin and Liathach look great from this side of Glen Torridon.

Allt Coire Roill Below Beinn Damh

Finally, Thursday took us to Applecross up and over the hairpins of the Bealach na Ba (pass of the cattle) to the useful car park at the top of the pass.  From here, we traversed across the sandstone plateau, passing a watchful herd of Red Deer before the earth fell away in dramatic suddenness to reveal the stunning mountain landscape that the Applecross Hills have to offer.  

Bealach na Ba

Yvonne paused to admire the view as Jacqui and I traversed the few entertaining humps that lead to the Corbett summit of Sgurr a’Chaorachain (792m; peak of the little field of berries).

Sgurr a’Chaorachain

Apart from the deer (they were still there on the way back), we also came across a wee baby rabbit that popped out from under a rock before we carefully replaced it before Mr Eagle came calling.  A lone ptarmigan completed the most interesting wildlife day of the week as we returned to the car.  Then it was down to Applecross for some cullen skink and a welcome bowl of chips!  

Over the Sea to Skye

A visit to the walled garden of Applecross House and a walk along the Applecross river and beach completed the day - and the week - in glorious sunshine.  The girls want to go back!  

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Last of the Summer Wine – Southern Highlands

Ben Lawers From Meall Greigh

Doctor Jon returned to Scotland last week and I was only too pleased to help him nudge his Munro count towards his first 100.  Time and logistics restricted our options to the southern Highlands and the weather forecast sealed the deal: a day on Ben Lawers and a day in the Arrochar Alps!

The Eastern Lawers Peaks: Meall Greigh, Meall Garbh & An Stuc

Ben Lawers & An Stuc From Meall Garbh

Jon had only the 3 easternmost peaks to climb in the Ben Lawers group above Loch Tay.  We headed for the private lay-by opposite the bone-carving shop in Lawers village, duly paid our £5 contribution to bone-carving research and headed up the pretty path that climbs alongside the Lawers Burn.

We entered cloud soon after leaving the burn to climb the grassy slopes of Meall Greigh and made our own way up the pathless, but quite straightforward, terrain that led to (today’s) unseen skyline.  The sun threatened to appear occasionally but we were still in cloud when we intersected the ridge (and path) that led us in short order to the our first summit:  Meall Greigh (1001m; hill of horse studs).

Jon Emerges From the Cloud (Just Before it Cleared)!

Lunch beckoned in a sheltered hollow (we had a cool wind all day) and no sooner had we sat down, when the cloud clearly got bored and promptly disappeared.  Suddenly, we could see for miles – north to the Glen Lyon hills, west to Ben Lawers and south to the Loch Earn and Crianlarich hills.  The day now became very easy and we followed the clear path and fence across the wide ridge and up to the rather more interesting summit ridge of Meall Garbh (1118m; rough hill).

Meall Garbh

Once here, the view became dominated by Ben Lawers itself and right in front of us, the sharp wedge of today’s final Munro: An Stuc.  It’s less than a kilometre away but you have to descend steeply to the narrow bealach between the peaks and then climb even more steeply up the fairly eroded path that leads up a greasy gulley to the small summit of the mountain – An Stuc (1118m; the peak).  This is the most photogenic and interesting of today’s 3 Munros and it is well placed directly above the feline-shaped Lochan nan Cat which sits snugly beneath the encircling cliffs of An Stuc’s eastern aspect.

An Stuc

The way home was straightforward.  We descended SW to the Bealach Dubh (black pass) and then peeled off left and descended steeply to the W shore of the Lochan and followed it until we picked up that morning’s path for a very entertaining descent back down to Lawers village.  A most agreeable day!

The Arrochar Alps:  Beinn Narnain & Beinn Ime

The Cobbler

Today was to prove slightly harder work in tougher conditions.  Whilst it remained largely clear and dry all day, a strong cold wind and some cloud on Beinn Ime made for some distinctly bleak conditions at times!

Beinn Narnain From Beinn Ime

We started from the car park (£1 all day) at the head of Loch Long at Succoth and climbed the new and well-engineered path/track that climbs through the young woods before spitting you out at 300m in full view of the finest peak in these parts: The Cobbler.  It was our plan (as it should be everybody’s) to include the wee man (a Corbett) whenever taking in the 2 higher Munros.

Loch Long From Beinn Narnain

From the treeline, the route leads shortly to a small weir and from here the excellent path follows the Allt a’Bhalachain (the delightfully named Buttermilk Burn) up towards the Cobbler with Beinn Narnain rising to the right.  When we reached the unmistakable Narnain Boulders, we left the path and climbed to our right up into the pathless, boulder-strewn slopes towards the Spearhead – the conspicuous rocky wedge that crowns the summit ridge.

High on Beinn Narnain

On reaching the skyline we intercepted the path that runs up the SE ridge of the mountain and gratefully followed it (avoiding the Spearhead to its right) until the flat summit plateau suddenly appeared.  In a further 200m we were at the cairned summit of our first peak of the day: Beinn Narnain (926m; hill of the notches).  This is a good viewpoint with the shapely cone of Ben Lomond away to the SE and the other Arrochar Alps all around.  Beinn Ime, in particular, looks quite impressive from here.

Beinn Ime From Beinn Narnain

We descended NW down a path that threads a couple of boulder fields before becoming clearer over grass and leading to a stile over a fence in the centre of the ever-muddy Bealach a’Mhaim.  I’ve never been here on a warm, sunny day and today was no exception!  We departed unhesitatingly up the muddy path that leads up the fairly drab, grassy southern slopes of Beinn Ime (1011m; hill of butter).  In fairness, just before reaching the large summit cairn, the path intercepts the encircling ridge of the mountain’s impressive eastern slopes and things do get a little more interesting, scenically at least.

The Cobbler From Beinn Ime

It was mid-afternoon by now and blowing a gale so we regrettably, but sensibly, opted to omit the Cobbler from our itinerary and returned straight down to the Bealach a’Mhaim and followed the Buttermilk Burn back along that morning’s path and down through the trees to the car.  The Arrochar Alps are smashing wee hills and conveniently placed  However, they do tend to have steep slopes on all sides and it is better not to try and do too many in any one day if they are to be appreciated and enjoyed to the full.  

Ben Lomond From Above Arrochar

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm