The Five Sisters of Kintail
The day after the thrills and (no) spills on
the Inn Pin, we returned to the mainland where Doctor Jon joined us from
darkest Wiltshire for his 3rd attempt at the green hills of
Kintail. Whilst the weather had turned
cooler and cloudier, the tops were all still clear and there was still plenty
of blue sky around.
The South Cluanie Ridge
Aonach air Chrith From the East
As the A87 climbs west from the Great Glen,
past the ugly Cluanie Dam and begins its slow and scenic descent to the sea
through majestic Glen Shiel, Munros spring up everywhere. On your right, rising up from the Cluanie Inn,
starts an 11 mile ridge of 12 peaks including 6 Munros that culminate at their
western end in the Five Sisters of Kintail.
To the left, slightly further back from the road, a long, undulating
ridge extends westwards. Nowhere else in
Scotland do 7 Munros arrange themselves so conveniently that their conquest in
a single day becomes a realistic proposition for mere mortals.
Glen Shiel
Given the benefit of 2 cars, we were able to
dispense with long walk-ins/outs and concentrate our efforts on traversing the
ridge. Be warned though – one effect of
traversing 7 conjoined hills in succession is that they tend to merge into one
another and your memories of the day tend to be of a ridge traverse rather than
7 individual ascents. This makes it no
less enjoyable, but even after 3 traverses I find it hard to recall the precise
characteristics – or the names – of all of them! What does stand out from our day on the
ridge, however, were the expansive views in all directions with mountains,
mountains everywhere. The distinctive
bulk of not-so-distant Ben Nevis, the ever-present (on this trip) serrated
outline of the Skye Cuillin and the familiar shapes of the Torridon giants were
constant companions. Nearer to hand,
Knoydart seemed within touching distance and across Glen Shiel, the Five
Sisters beckoned us for the morrow!
The Five Sisters From Druim Shionnach
We started from the Cluanie Inn and went up
the fine stalkers path that begins a mile along the old road. In under 2 hrs we were on our first peak: Druim
Shionnach (987m; ridge of foxes). This is the penultimate peak at the eastern
end of the ridge so we were faced with a
quick ‘out and back’ to gain the easternmost peak: Creag a’ Mhaim (947m; rock of the large rounded hill). This we achieved within 45 mins although a
crowd of over a dozen folk having lunch on the summit ensured we beat a hasty
retreat back to Druim Shionnach!
We were now committed to completing the full
traverse. In this, we were assisted
partly by great views all around, partly by the fact that we were effectively walking
back to the car we’d left at the foot of the glen, and partly by the thought of
having to climb back up on to the ridge on another day if we failed to capture
all 7 Munros!
Snow in June!
Soon after leaving Druim Shionnach, we
experienced our only hill precipitation of the 3 weeks. Not rain, as you might expect for early June,
but snow, yes snow, that fell in 2 short sharp showers as we hurried along in
waterproofs that had not been out of the sack in 2½ weeks! They didn’t last long though, and we were not
to see further snow or rain for the remainder of the trip.
Sgurr a' Mhaoraich From the South Cluanie Ridge
And so we traversed the South Cluanie Ridge
(also known as the South Glen Shiel Ridge), up and down and along and along and
still the Munros kept coming. One by one
we stood triumphant (and increasingly knackered) on successive summits as Jon’s
Munro count soared into the 80s and Jennifer’s raced towards the 50 mark. Aonach air Chrith (1021m; ridge of trembling) came and went and then the ridge narrowed
before the climb to Maol Chinn-dearg (981m;
bald red hill). Then came the
longest gap between Munros on the ridge and a slightly ‘draggy’ climb that
eventually brought us to Sgurr an Doire Leathain (1010m; peak of the broad oak grove). The summit lies on a grassy spur about 100m
north of the ridge so don’t miss it in thick cloud!
Sgurr an Lochain
The most distinctive peak on the ridge, by
some margin, is Sgurr an Lochain (1004m;
peak of the little loch). As its
name implies, it is a sharp, pointy thing with a wee lochan nestling in its NE
corrie. Although it looks a steep climb,
it’s actually less of a slog than some of the other peaks prove to be in the
latter part of the day once the legs start getting a teeny weeny bit tired! It’s a fine peak.
Sgurr an Lochain From the West
The penultimate hill on the ridge (Sgurr
Beag) is neither Munro nor Corbett and can be avoided by a traversing path on
its southern side without upsetting too many folks’ moral code. And then the last peak (the lowest on the
ridge, helpfully) was ours and we were all smiles on top of Creag nan Damh (918m; rock of the stags). All we had to do now was descend to the car.
Glen Quoich From Creag nan Damh
Today, I tried something new – a more direct
descent straight from the summit to the Glen Shiel 1719 battle site just a
couple of miles away – oh, and 3000’ below us.
A lot of these feet were grabbed in a very short time as the sketchy
path plunged down the steep headwall of Am Fraoch-choire. Suddenly, we were down on gentler slopes and
following an excellent stalkers’ path to what we hoped would be a rapid return to
the car. No chance: new fencing brought
our wonderful path to an abrupt halt and things got very messy when we followed
what was clearly a hillwalkers’ detour into a forest plantation that sprung a
steep slippery slope upon us! So our
majestic day on the high tops and one of Scotland’s finest ridge traverses
ended in an untidy, slippery, midge-ridden, battle through dense spruce
branches and gorse bushes and a rush to the bar for dinner.
Creag nan Damh From the North Glen Shiel Ridge
No matter.
We’d sauntered, strolled and struggled over a total of 8 Munros (did one
twice of course) and felt quite chuffed with our 9½ hr day high
above beautiful Glen Shiel.
The Five Sisters of Kintail
The Five Sisters From Auchtertyre
Today would be shorter with fewer Munros. It
would be no less enjoyable and certainly no less scenically impressive. Half-way up Glen Shiel, an imposing uniformly
steep grass slope (which I once bum-slid down in deep snow one New Year’s Day with
Bonnie) sweeps up to the Bealach an Lapain.
I’ve never seen a rabbit up here, but for just an hour’s effort, you do
get the easiest possible access to the skyline of the North Glen Shiel Ridge!
Approaching the Bealach an Lapain
With our hills of the previous day stretched
out across the other side of the glen and menacing dark clouds away to the NE
(where they stayed, thankfully), we headed west along the entertaining sharpish
ridge that leads to the warm-up act for the Five Sisters: Sgurr nan Spainteach
(990m; hill of the Spaniards). From here, our 3 Munros of the day seemed
suddenly close and we continued on our busy (Bank Holiday Monday) ridge eager
to claim our first Munro – and sister – of the day! This we duly achieved and we were rewarded
with the fabulous views westwards along Loch Duich and out to sea that were to
remain with us for the rest of the day. Sgurr
na Ciste Dubhe (1027m; peak of the black
chest) was finally ours!
Sgurr na Ciste Dubhe
Accompanied by the odd ptarmigan, we
descended quickly to the grassy bealach that was considered low enough in the
1997 Munro revision to ensure that our next peak should now be a Munro. And quite right too! The Sisters are quite bouldery peaks but good
clear paths make their traverse simple enough.
They are also very close together and it wasn’t long before we on top of
our next peak: Sgurr na Carnach (1002m;
rocky peak).
Sgurr na Carnach & Sgurr Fhuaran
Slightly repetitively,
we descended steeply and climbed equally steeply up to our 3rd and
final Munro – and highest point - of the day: Sgurr Fhuaran (1067m; peak of the wolf). This is the crowning point in all Kintail and
is a superb summit and vantage point.
You can also expect it to be busy on good days. It was! Still, a nice lady took our photo and a quick
peep over the very impressive NE slopes of the mountain was well worth the
effort.
Sgurr na Carnach From Sgurr Fhuaran
The main SW ridge of Sgurr Fhuaran descends
directly from the summit to sea level near the foot of Glen Shiel making it one
of the longest unbroken slopes in the country.
It will let your knees know all about it though and can deposit you
inconveniently away from suitable parking spots for a waiting car. Far better, therefore, to descend that ridge for
only a short way before turning sharp right and descending to the NW to the
grassy bealach that marks the continuation of the Five Sisters ridge.
Summit of Sgurr Fhuaran
The next peak was the double ‘arrow-head’ of
Sgurr nan Saighead and Beinn Bhuidhe but we were content to traverse around them
given our big effort yesterday.
Sgurr nan Saighead
We also
decided we didn’t need to take in the flat, stony 5th Sister of
Sgurr na Moraich and instead opted for a delightful descent down into Coire na
Criche where we disturbed a lone deer!
Here, we picked up an excellent stalkers’ path and followed it westwards
beside the bank of the Allt a’ Chruinn into a descending sun that put a
beautiful shimmer on Loch Duich and a smile on our faces!
Descending Towards Loch Duich
Our classic Kintail mountain day ended with a
short but memorable descent through the
heather to Allt na Chrinn and, as we’d been very clever, a waiting car!
Ciste Dubh
Ciste Dubh From the Cluanie Inn (on a good day)!
Doctor Jon had returned south, happy with his
2-day haul of 10 Munros and 438 photographs!
Lady Jennifer had enjoyed her big, multi-Munro extravaganzas but didn’t
feel the need to perpetuate them as the norm.
We agreed therefore, to try being conventional for a change and doing
what normal people do. We’d attempt just
one Munro a day!
Ciste Dubh From the South Cluanie Ridge
Ciste Dubh is a fine wee peak that hides away
5 Km N of the Cluanie Inn although you will get a fleeting glimpse of most of
it (if you’re quick) as you drive past the Inn.
This was to be our only cloudy summit of the 3 weeks and we set off up the
wide grassy glen of An Caorann Beag in overcast conditions though still dry - as
we had been for so long now.
Ciste Dubh
Ninety
minutes from Cluanie, we were standing on the grassy Bealach a’ Choinich at the
head of the glen looking at the steep slope that leads up to the mountain
proper. Thinking we had the place to
ourselves, a lone walker suddenly appeared out of nowhere from a remote glen to
the NW. Soon after, other folk appeared
and our grand illusion of isolation was shattered. A further hour of steep climbing, gentle
traversing and short, sharp undulations led us to one of the tidiest cairns in
Scotland and the wee pointy summit of Ciste Dubh (979m; black chest).
Looking Back Down to Cluanie From Ciste Dubh
We returned the same way and were finished in
a little over 4 hrs. So this was what a
normal Munro day was like…
Beinn Sgritheall
Beinn Sgritheall From Corran Ferry
The idea of spending half a day climbing just
one hill seemed really most agreeable so we decided to repeat the experience
for the last day of Lady Jennifer’s Munro marathon. We drove around the old familiar road that
takes you through Glenelg, past Gavin Maxwell’s Camusfearna (Sandaig) and
eventually to wonderful Arnisdale, that quiet reclusive village that sits so
prettily on a curve of the shore of Loch Hourn.
I don’t pretend that this can’t be the most wild, wet and windy place in
the country when an Atlantic depression sweeps in, but I make a point of only
ever visiting it in beautiful weather so my memories will always be of heaven
on earth!
Toiling Up From Arnisdale
Ben Sgritheall is only one mountain and is
only a mile from the road, but that means you have over 3000’ to climb very
quickly and the ascent can be quite brutal!
The views more than make up for it though and you do gain height quickly
if you take it steadily.
Ladhar Bheinn Across Loch Hourn
There is only
one tricky bit – above the Bealach Arnasdail you have to climb (and descend on
the way back) a steep scree slope to gain the mountain’s summit crest. Take care here, it’s not nice! Persevere, however, and your world will open
out and the mountain’s summit will suddenly appear enticingly close to you
across a lovely wide grassy ridge.
The Summit Ridge
A short climb up the other side and we were
standing on our last Munro of the trip, Beinn Sgritheall (974m; scree hill). Far below
lay the blue shimmering waters of Loch Hourn whilst a short way across the loch
lay mighty Ladhar Bheinn and the familiar peaks of Knoydart. Skye, obviously, is very close and the view
out over the sea to the SW is sublime.
No wonder that Sir Hugh Munro thought this the finest view from any of his
eponymous hills – on the perfect day it can be!
The Skye Cuillin From Beinn Sgritheall
So down we went, returning the same way
rather than taking the alternative way down to the west that deposits you on
the road some 3 miles short of Arnisdale.
Delightful though that walk (or cycle) can be, we didn’t need no road
walk after our 3-week marathon!
Jennifer’s 3-week Munro odyssey had taken us from the heat of Highland
Perthshire and the rounded hills of the Grampians to the rocky spires of sunny
Skye to the grassy ridges of Kintail.
She had walked 95 miles, climbed 40,000’ and climbed 29 Munros. When I poured her out of the car at Inverness
airport the following morning, I couldn’t help thinking how relieved I was that
there are only 283 Munros…………
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