The Glen Carron Hills

Sgorr Ruadh & Fuar Tholl From Achintee

Hidden away, far and unseen from public roads, lie 3 (very) remote Munros which the aspiring Munroist will have to tackle at some stage.  By far the best way to access these awkwardly-placed hills is by bike, even if you will have to push it uphill for a while on your way in!  On this occasion, however, we were resigned to walking all the way and the hot, windless conditions made for 2 of  the most challenging hill-days in Matt & Jenn’s Munro campaign.

Bidein a’ Choire Sheasgaich & Lurg Mhor

Bidein a’ Choire Sheasgaich & Lurg Mhor

Lurg Mhor is one of the 3 remotest Munros in Scotland and together with ‘Cheescake’, will demand a long old day from you, however you choose to do them.  The 3 usual options start from Craig in Glen Carron (you have to climb over an intervening Corbett in and out!), Attadale beside Loch Carron (a bike-able track accounts for ⅔ of the distance) or on foot from Achintee. 

Approaching Bendronaig Lodge

Today, we walked in from Achintee, near Strathcarron (33 Kms round-trip) using the hill path for the first 2 hrs as far as the Bealach Alltan Ruairidh.  It is only now that you get your first view of the hills, and they don’t look particularity close even from here!  

Bendronaig Lodge & Bothy

It was only when we intercepted the Attadale track after 8 Kms that we realised that on-going hydro construction works have greatly improved the quality of the track and now make the bike option even more attractive.

Bidein a’ Choire Sheasgaich & Lurg Mhor From Sail Riabhach

After 10 Kms, you pass lonely Bendronaig Lodge (everything is lonely around here!) and its accompanying bothy.  From here, the track continues E past Loch Calavie to Pait Lodge on the shores of Loch Monar. 

Loch Calavie

We followed this through the energy-sapping heat for another 2 Kms before the climbing started in earnest with a tiring flog up the grassy bowl of Coire na Sorna and on to Sail Riabhach (771m).  From this intermediate top, our 1^st Munro finally looked something like close!  And indeed, after a gentle traverse with a welcome breeze and a short, final climb, we reached the rather fine (if small) summit of Bidein a’ Choire Sheasgaich (945m; pinnacle of the corrie of the fallow cattle).

Bidein a’ Choire Sheasgaich From Lurg Mhor

Apart from the obvious relief of attaining our 1^st summit, our spirits were further lifted by the obvious close proximity of Lurg Mhor.  The intervening bealach is a lowly 735m, but the relatively modest height of the 2 Munros make for a straightforward re-ascent up 2 rock steps to the very welcome summit cairn of Lurg Mhor (986m; big shank).  As if to underline our hard-won Munro, a pair of golden eagles soared above us in the bright blue sky.

Lurg Mhor

Any heightened sense of relief following our 2^nd summit was muted by the knowledge we were only just half-way through our long day.  So it was with some weariness that we descended the grassy slopes of Coire Calavie back down to the Bendronaig track from where we started the long weary trudge all the way back to Achintee.

Maoile Lunndaidh

Maoile Lunndaidh From Glenuaig

The following day (as if the previous day’s exertions weren’t enough), we donned boots again and headed up yet another track in debilitating heat.  Today’s 27 Kms sojourn started at Craig in Glen Carron and followed the now familiar improved track alongside the Allt a’ Chonais to Pollan Buidhe.  Shortly before reaching Glenuaig Lodge, we left the track and cut right across some very rough and uneven ground to begin what became a very difficult climb up the steep flank of Fuar-tholl Mor and up on to the open hillside.  Being a flat-topped mountain, the summit cairn didn’t appear until the last minute but it was a mighty relief when it did.  At least there was some sort of breeze up there: Maoile Lunndaidh (1007m; bare hill of the wet place).

Below Fuar-tholl Mor

Still a long way from home, we traipsed wearily down the way we had come, descending steeply down into Gleann Fhiodhaig and making a direct line for Glenuaig Lodge where some very kind tenants offered cake!  We were still the best part of 2 hrs from the car and the heat never really relented.  So it was 3 very tired bunnies who eventually staggered back to Craig eagerly anticipating a day-off!

Approaching Glenuaig Lodge

That day-off was largely spent moving across to Speyside where we encountered markedly different conditions cycling down Loch Ericht for 15 Kms to Culra Bothy for a wet and windy few hours attempting 4 of the Ben Alder group.  We achieved 2 of them before scuttling back to Dalwhinnie wondering what is the more challenging - debilitating heat, or wild and windy weather……..

 Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Gleouraich & Spidean Mialach

The View Across Loch Quoich Towards Knoydart

Returning to Loch Quoich one month after an unusually challenging hot and humid ascent of Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich, much kinder conditions awaited Matt, Jenn & I for this first class circular traverse of 2 fine mountains far down Glen Garry.

Gairich Across Loch Quoich

The hills were surprisingly quiet for mid-August and we saw very few people in a week that encompassed one of the Glen Etive hills, these 2 today, 3 very remote hills above Glen Carron and a partly-successful tilt at the Ben Alder group.

The View SW From Gleouraich

A network of excellent stalkers’ paths in the Loch Quoich hills make for very enjoyable (and easier) hillwalking than it would otherwise be.  These 2 hills are no exception with a fabulous stalkers’ path leading from the roadside to just 200m below the first summit.  Thereafter, a clear mountain path leads over both summits and part-way down the 2^nd peak before another stalkers’ path returns you to the road.  Moreover, in keeping with many parts of the Highlands, there has been a lot of recent hill track/road building in mountain glens and one of these alongside the Allt a’ Mheil gives an even easier descent from Spidean Mialach.

Gleouraich

So off we set, quite steeply at first, up on to the ridge of Sron a’ Chuilinn which gives stunning views down over Loch Quoich towards Knoydart and further W.  The path is a real ‘highway in the sky’ and quickly leads you to the upper part of the mountain.  Just before the stalkers’ path terminates high above Coire Peitireach, we took the obvious ridgeline which climbs and curves around to the substantial summit cairn of Gleouraich (1035m; roaring noise).

Spidean Mialach From Gleouraich

Both mountains have widely differing aspects with the summit crests separating deep rocky corries to the N from much gentler grassy slopes to the  S.  The dividing bealach (Fiar Bealach) dips down to a slightly mean 740m, but you can hardly complain given the shortness of the day!  The ascent from the bealach is grassy at first, but becomes increasingly stony as you approach the summit.  Once there though, you get 2 cairns for the price of one and fantastic views in every direction, particularly E where you can see the Cairngorms on a clear day!  Spidean Mialach (996m; peak of deer).

Gleouraich From Spidean Mialach

After admiring said views and someone’s very fair copy of a west Highland trig point using local stone, we took the obvious path down into Coire Dubh.  The path turned boggy in places so it was an easy decision to opt for the new Hydro track from about 400m rather than stay with the squelchy path!  Whilst the track meets the road further from the car than the path, the extra kilometer is a small price to pay to get onto firmer ground sooner.

Descending Into Sun

And anyway, the sun was still shining and the view across the shimmering waters of Loch Quoich towards the Rough Bounds of Knoydart and the distinctive outline of Sgurr na Ciche never looed better!

 Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm