The Ullapool Road & The Far North

 A Distant Slioch & Loch a’Bhraoin

The original plan was to spend a week based in Ullapool climbing the Fannaich, Beinn Dearg and Fisherfield groups of hills.  A tall order requiring quite a few things to fall into place, not the least of which was the weather....

Sgurr Breac & A’ Chailleach

The Fannaichs (West):  Sgurr Breac & A’ Chailleach

We started from the small parking area on the A832 close to Loch a’Bhraoin.  The track leads down to a soon-to-be rebuilt ruined fishing lodge surrounded by new deer fencing.  A detour path leads through the small plantation on the left to the bridge over the loch’s outflow.

The Fisherfield Hills

Soon after, you leave the stalker’s path and strike out across open ground heading straight for the blunt nose of Druim Reidh.  A path winds its way through the steep crags and the top is gained without undue difficulty (although it’s a steep old pull for the start of a long week)!

Sgurr Breac

We followed the broad shoulder all the way to the culminating summit of Toman Coinich (935m) which is the centre of an entertaining ridge connecting today’s 2 Munros.  From this airy viewpoint, the whole of the northern Highlands suddenly appears with wide views from the Cairngorms to Torridon and from the Outer Hebrides to Ben Hope.

An Teallach

Today’s peaks are fairly close together so it didn’t take long to head E to the flat summit of Sgurr Breac (999m; speckled peak).

Sgurr Breac

Retracing our steps, we traversed around the S side of Toman Coinich along the rim of impressive Toll an Lochain before climbing one last time to the grassy summit of A’ Chailleach (997m; the old woman)!

A’ Chailleach

We returned to the car via the broad shoulder of Druim Reidh accompanied by great views across to Fisherfield and mighty An Teallach.

Seana Bhraigh & Eididh nan Clach Geala

The Hills of Assynt & Coigach From Seana Bhraigh

Seana Bhraigh vies with A’ Mhaighdean & Lurg Mhor for the title of most remote Munro.  Certainly, the near-14Km trek to reach its isolated summit supports such a contention!  Moreover, approaching the mountain from the S across fairly mundane grassy slopes means you have to wait until a few steps short of the summit before the peak’s defining feature suddenly drops away in front of you revealing one of the finest corries in the Highlands.  Go on, take a peep - it’s well worth the long walk!

Glen na Sguaib

We started from the newish car park at Inverlael and headed up the forestry track towards the old ruin of Glensquaib where extensive forestry operations have altered the landscape and created several new tracks. 

Cadha Dearg

As such, the start of the stalker’s path up the flanks of Druim na Saobhaidhe took a little finding but thereafter, the path does what its always done: leads you across the wide open moorland with just a few deer for company and no sign of Seana Bhraigh!  Eventually though, things start to happen and a string of lochans adds some texture to the surroundings as you approach the UK E/W watershed where the path peters out!  A short section of wild terrain (difficult in mist) leads to the majestic sweep of Cadha Dearg, a near-perfect U-shaped glacial valley hemmed in by very impressive cliffs. 

Cadha Dearg

It is as you round the head of this amazing defile that you actually start climbing Seana Bhraigh itself.  Its been a long wait!  A path (sketchy at first) climbs across wet and boggy grassland to the steepening slopes of the mountain’s S slopes until the cairn finally appears and your whole world drops away before your eyes into the awesome Luchd Choire.  If you’re lucky, as we were today, you’ll get amazing views in every direction, none finer than NW to the wonderful individual peaks of Assynt & Coigach!  It may be a long walk (4½ hrs) but this is a special place.  Try not to rush away.  Seana Bhraigh (926m; old height).

Luchd Choire, Seana Bhraigh

We returned (almost reluctantly), retracing our steps as far as the watershed.  From here, a rising traverse across open ground led us up grassy slopes and around the odd snow patch to the summit boulder field of our 2^nd peak of the day (playing very much a supporting role): Eididh nan Clach Geala (927m; web of the white stones).

The Summer Isles & Ullapool From Eididh nan Clach Geala

An easy descent, joining up the grassy patches between the boulder fields, led us back down to the broad shoulder of Druim na Saobhaidhe where we intercepted our inbound path.  We had been lucky - it had stayed dry, reasonably bright and fairly calm.  All of this was about to change!

The Fannaichs (East):  Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich, Sgurr Mor, Meal Gorm & An Coileachan

Meall Gorm

Today, we continued our quest to climb all 9 Munros in the Fannaich range during the week.  The 4 easternmost peaks, which include the range’s highest point (the distinctive cone of Sgurr Mor), are best accessed from the Ullapool road starting as we did from the weather station on the S side of the road close to an inflow of Loch Glascarnoch.  This gives the shortest access to the group as well as a helpful 270m start.   

From here, a narrow, but clear, path faithfully follows the meanders of the Abhainn an Torrain Duibh for 3 Km to its confluence with the Allt an Loch Sgeirich.  Here, we turned W over open ground to begin our ascent of Creag Dhubh Fannaich (757m) and soon after entering cloud, the broad stony summit of our 1^st Munro: Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich (954m; big grey hill of Fannaich).

Following a short ‘delicate’ descent W from the summit over loose boulders, we intercepted the stalker’s path that follows the rim of the impressive corrie of Loch a’ Mhadaidh.  The slope quickly increases as you climb up a series of solifluction levels to the sharp, conical summit of the Fannaichs’ highest point: Sgurr Mor (1110m; big peak).

Sgurr Mor

All was cloudy and windy so this superb spot was not a place to linger today, alas.  There then followed a long traverse in thick cloud, driving rain and strong, cold winds (late June!!!) along the main spine of the Fannaichs.  It was really just a matter of counting the bumps as we struggled manfully over 2 intermediate tops to the next Munro: Meal Gorm (949m; blue hill).

From here, more abject misery led over slippery boulders and the wet grass of Bealach Ban and eventually to the last hill of the day: An Coileachan (923m; the little cock)!  Another windswept and rainy summit in the clouds!

The Eastern Fannaichs

Down we went, following the mountain’s N ridge until Loch Gorm loomed out of the murk and we finally had a view!  We traversed the W slopes of Meallan Buidhe before crossing interminable heather nothingness aiming for the bridge over the Albhainn a’ Ghiuthais Li.  From here, the inbound path led us back to the car and the sweet relief of home sweet home.  A pretty yuk day!

Ben Klibreck

Ben Klibreck

We were beginning to get the message weather-wise by now so the rest of the week was subject to some rapid re-planning.  It started today, when the prospect of 4 big Munros in similar conditions to yesterday was firmly voted down and we opted instead for Ben Klibreck, a remote Munro further E and hopefully, out of the clutches of the west coast drizzle.

A long drive took us through Lairg and N on the Altnaharra road to the usual parking spot just N of Vagastie Farm.  The River Vagastie was just fordable here and we made a boggy bee-line across the moors to the outflow of Loch nan Uan.  Rising above us, like some heathery tidal wave, were the W ramparts of A’Chioch up which we then proceeded to stagger.  These safely negotiated, we turned N along the ridge that leads to the summit slopes of Meall nan Con, the highest point on Ben Klibreck: (962m; hill of the speckled cliff).

South From Ben Klibreck

We returned the same way, negotiating a slightly easier line down the steepest slopes and re-crossing the wonderfully wet blanket bog.  We were getting used to it by now!

The Fannaichs (Centre):  Sgurr nan Each, Sgurr nan Clach Geala & Meall a’ Chrasgaidh

The Central Fannaichs

Having given up on tackling the Fisherfield hills, we used our last day to finish off the Fannaichs.  Starting once again from the roadside on the A832, we took the track past Loch a’Bhraoin and on up the glen of the Allt Breabaig.  It is best to leave the stalker’s path 50’ past the bridge, turn E for ½ Km to cross the river by another bridge and then follow a boggy ‘path’ for 1 Km S until you intercept the original stalker’s path again.  This convoluted detour avoids a difficult crossing of the Allt Breabaig on the main stalker’s path.

The Allt Breabaig Glen

Two hours from the start, we reached the 550m bealach at the head of the glen and struck up open ground to the E, reaching the skyline at 810m.  Here, we entered cloud so had no views for the short easy traverse S to Sgurr nan Each (923m; peak of the horses).

All In A Day's Work - Sgurr nan Each

There then followed a pretty straightforward traverse N up grassy slopes and solifluction levels to the summit cairn and half-destroyed trig point atop Sgurr nan Clach Geala (1093m; peak of the white stones).  Unfortunately, we had no view down  the vertical cliffs into impressive Coire Mor and the splendour of this amazing viewpoint was rather lost on the group today.

Sgurr nan Clach Geala

Finally, a gentle descent and traverse of grassy Am Biachdaich (place of fattening) led us to the last climb of the day (and week) up onto Meall a’ Chrasgaidh (934m; hill of the crossing).

Meall a’ Chrasgaidh

All done, so we descended W down easy grassy slopes and then not-so-easy heathery slopes until we intercepted the inbound stalker’s path and retraced our squelchy steps to the car.

So, a long, hard and at times challenging week requiring flexibility and improvisation, not to mention considerable physical and mental effort!  Nevertheless, we achieved much of what we set out to do: the complete Fannaich range and one of the remotest Munros (Seana Bhraigh) with the added-on bonus of remote Ben Klibreck in the far north.  The stats for the week are pretty impressive too: 102 Km walked; 6,300m climbed and 12 Munros.  Well done guys - top effort!

Check out my plans for the summer at:  http://www.hillways.co.uk/   

Ben Vorlich

Ben Lomond & Loch Lomond From the Summit

Once in a while, near-perfect weather, great company and a nice wee hill combine to give a truly memorable day which lives long in the memory.  But until such a day comes along, Aileen, Pete & Audrey helped ease the wait by agreeing that Ben Vorlich in the Arrochar Alps would be a most agreeable way of spending  a spring Saturday!

Ben Vane from Coiregrogain

They’ve completed work on the new electricity sub-station in Coiregrogain so the short walk up the metalled road from Inveruglas is a little quieter these days.  Despite all the electricity paraphernalia, it is still a pretty part of the planet and the steep slopes of the surrounding hills add much to the scenic grandeur of the glen.

One kilometer from the Sloy dam, a small cairn marks the otherwise indistinct start to an occasionally wet path that climbs the steep grassy hillside.  Up we headed, in warm sunshine with the view improving rapidly with each footstep.  And then, as we crested the summit ridge, views exploded in all directions and the hard work was over.  So were the warm conditions (for a while, at least) as a cool breeze took the edge off the temperature.  The summit cairn (200m north of the trig point) was particularly drafty: Ben Vorlich (943m; hill of the bay). 

The Arrochar Alps

We did manage to find a sheltered spot for lunch though and I was treated to the best coronation chicken morning roll I’ve ever tasted.  Consequently, Audrey has kindly agreed to provide my lunch and accompany me on all future hills!  Well, I think that’s what she said…

A Distant Ben Vorlich from the Bonnie, Bonnie Banks

We descended, almost reluctantly, from our airy perch and the warmth returned once we out of the wind.  The sun kept shining and was still there for the après hill refreshment stop where some us drank soft drinks and coffee and some of us drank Sauvignon Blanc…..

A most agreeable day, and not such a long wait after all!

Check out my plans for the summer at:  http://www.hillways.co.uk/   

The Laggan Hills

Coire Ardair

The long hard week we had planned for our Newtonmore trip turned out to be a long hard week adjusting the itinerary because of the copious amounts of snow still lying on the Scottish mountains!  Although the more easterly peaks had relatively few patches of spring snow, those hills further west were plastered with the white stuff and summer hillwalking was not remotely possible!

Creag Pitridh, Geal Charn & Beinn a’ Chlachair

Beinn a’ Chlachair

There’s only one obvious access point for these 3 Munros that lie over 5Km S of the A86 mid-way between Newtonmore and Spean Bridge.  Leaving the car at the lay-by close to Moy Lodge, we headed up the track that traverses around the S flank of Binnein Shuas to Lochan na h-Earba.  The track then becomes an excellent stalker’s path and climbs to the skyline placing you conveniently at the centre of the group. 

Creag Pitridh & Geal Charn

Turning NW just before the skyline bealach, we picked off the easiest of the day’s hills - the small rounded cone of Creag Pitridh (924m; Petrie’s rock).  An easy start!  Returning to the stalker’s path, a slightly longer (but not much) detour placed us on the flat rocky summit of Geal Charn (1049m; white hill).  Here, we encountered our first snow patches of the week!

Geal Charn

Returning once more to the stalker’s path and back to the skyline bealach, a steep, if short, climb gave access to the long broad shoulder of our 3^rd Munro.  Now the cloud came down and we saw little but a monochrome world of snow and rocks as we picked our way to the eventual summit of Beinn a’ Chlachair (1087m; stonemason’s hill).

Beinn a’ Chlachair

Descending E, we traversed around the rim of Coire Mor a’ Chlachair before descending directly N to intercept the inward stalker’s path and returning to the car in a little over 8hrs.  Whilst we encountered only a moderate amount of snow today, we could look across to Ben Alder and see plenty of it on that high massif.  It was obvious we would have to come back another time for the Alder group.

Stob Coire Sgriodain & Chno Dearg

Sron na Garbh-bheinne

Today, we opted for a more straightforward day and Matt went off to play catch-up on another Munro as Jenn & Jon headed W to tackle 2 of the Loch Treig hills.

Stob Coire Sgriodain

Parking at Fersit, the leafy surroundings of the hamlet were soon replaced by the peat bog and heather slopes that guard the N flanks of the 2 hills.  A steep climb up the nose of Sron na Garbh-bheinne gives access to the gently undulating ridge that leads fairly easily to the rock-studded summit of Stob Coire Sgriodain (979m; peak of the corrie of the scree).  

Loch Treig

Fortunately, the clouds kept away long enough to allow us the spectacular view down to Loch Treig, immediately below us.

Chno Dearg

A straightforward traverse, with no significant ups or downs, connects the 2 Munros and an easy climb up grassy slopes leads to the stony, flat summit of Chno Dearg (1046m; red hill).  This was in cloud, and a compass bearing was necessary to get the initial descent line right.  But we were soon back in clear air and were able to take a direct line down assorted snowfields that afforded rapid progress before the wet grassy slopes led us back to Fersit.

Carn Liath, Stob Poite Coire Ardair & Creag Meagaidh

The Creag Meagaidh Hills

We left the round of Creag Meagaidh for the best weather of the week, or so we thought!  Alas, it was not to be and cloud, snow and rain all had a go at us as we made our way around Coire Ardair.  Oh, and did I mention the cold wind…?

Aberarder

Starting from Aberarder, the new path led us past the old farm and up into the birch woods.  Here, we left the main path and climbed NE up the heather slopes of Na Cnapanan and on to our 1^st peak of the day: Carn Liath (1006m; grey hill).

Cairn Liath

It’s usually an easy and enjoyable walk along the wide grassy ridge on to the next Munro, but today a cold and gusty headwind made for tough going.  Eventually though, a combination of narrowing ridgeline and old rusting fence-posts led us to the diminutive summit cairn atop Stob Poite Coire Ardair (1053m; peak of the pot of the high corrie).  This summit’s greatest feature is the close view it gives across to  the vertical cliffs of Coire Ardair and we were fortunate to get just such a view today.

Creag Meagaidh

A short, steep descent leads to The Window, the conspicuous U-shaped bealach that separates this peak from Creag Meagaidh itself. 

The Window

Climbing up the other side, we entered the cloud and crossed the snow-line at about 1000m and our world changed!  There then followed an hour’s micro-navigation in white-out conditions as we crossed the snow-covered plateau, gained the summit cairn and re-crossed the plateau to locate our return ridge. Creag Meagaidh (1130m; bogland rock).

The White-Out

The subsidiary top of Puist Coire Ardair leads to the onward ridge and the eventual descent back to Aberarder.  The cloud was in no hurry to leave us, neither were the wind and rain.  But Jon did manage to spot a dotterel which brightened things up.  A bit.

Drumochter East - A’Bhuidheanach Bheag & Carn na Caim

Drumochter

As the others departed for home, Jon and I took advantage of our 2 cars and managed an end-to-end traverse of the eastern Drumochter hills.  Cold and showery it may have remained (snow showers at that), but it stayed largely cloud-free as we traversed S-N heading up from the Pass and on to the flat grassy summit of  A’Bhuidheanach Bheag (936m; little yellow place).  As usual, red grouse, mountain hare, dunlin and dotterel added welcome interest.

A’Bhuidheanach Bheag

Then it was on across the windswept plateau and along the track to the final Munro of the week: Carn na Caim (941m; hill of the curve).  We returned, as usual, down the track from the disused quarry and back to the 2^nd car. 

Drumochter

Despite the difficulties, it was a great week and everyone went home happy.  But warm spring sunshine, where art thou…?

 Check out my plans for the summer at:  http://www.hillways.co.uk/