The Five Sisters of Kintail

The Five Sisters of Kintail

Lynn was fast approaching her 100^th Munro and needed a few days in Kintail to seal the deal!  The original plan had been to capture all 7 of the South Cluanie Ridge Munros in a day, add the Five Sisters of Kintail and pick up anything else the weather allowed over another couple of days.

Ah, Sunny Kintail.........

However, as what has become a rather wet and windy summer refused to play ball, we ended up, as always, compromising and grabbing what we could.

Creise

So, after pausing on the way up to climb Creise (and necessarily, Meall a’ Bhuiridh) above the Glen Coe ski complex, we decided to use the best day of the 4 traversing the Five Sisters ridge.  This was in the hope of seeing something of the amazing views that this always enjoyable traverse can give.

Saileag (on a good day)!

Leavin  the car at the end-point, and benefiting from a kindly lift part-way up Glen Shiel from David, we headed up the usual path (not as steep or as long as it looks from below) to the skyline at the Bealach an Lapain (730m).  It was a muggy old climb that soon entered thick cloud which was to linger for the next couple of hours.  On impulse, we decided to turn right instead of left and invest an additional 45 mins of our day adding a 4^th Munro to the day’s haul: Saileag (956m; little heel).  It didn’t take long, wasn’t very steep and we saw nothing!  But it was still Lynn’s 95^th Munro so was well worth climbing!

The North Cluanie Ridge

Back at the Bealach an Lapain, we reverted to Plan A and continued westwards along the ever-tightening ridge over various bumps and dips to Sgurr nan Spainteach (990m; peak of the Spaniard).  No Munro, but we wouldn’t have long to wait.  A steep, if short, descent to negotiate an interesting landslip followed by a modest re-ascent and a short boulder field brought us to our 2^nd Munro of the day: Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe (1027m; peak of the black chest).

Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe

By now, the cloud was beginning to noticeably thin and we were getting glimpses of Loch Duich far below and some of the surrounding hills.  By the time we had paused for some lunch at the intervening bealach, there were clear signs of a sunny afternoon to come.  First though, we had to climb up and over Sgurr na Carnach (1002m; rocky peak) and the ridge’s crowning peak: Sgurr Fhuaran (1067m; peak of the wolf) before the cloud started to leave us for good.

Sgurr Fhuaran

Descending from Sgurr Fhuaran, everything got better quickly and there then followed what has become a typically warm, bright and sunny traverse around Sgurr nan Saighead and Beinn Bhuidhe before dropping into Coire na Criche and following the delightful Allt a’ Chruinn back down to the waiting car.  Lovely!

West From Sgurr Fhuaran

Loch Duich From Coire na Criche

The following day, Lynn achieved her 100^th Munro on the South Cluanie Ridge.  Weather precluded us attempting a full traverse of all 7 peaks, but we managed the easternmost 3 and we celebrated her first century on Druim Shionnach - typically, in thick cloud!  The following day, in bright sunshine, we climbed Schiehallion on the way home thereby completing Lynn’s 102^nd Munro and ensuring we achieved the major aim of the trip.  Phew! 

 Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

The Fisherfield Five

Looking West From A' Mhaighdean

There is no easy way to climb these 5 very remote Munros tucked away in the vast road-less tract of mountain, moorland and glen between Dundonnell, Poolewe and Kinlochewe in the NW Highlands.  The fairly recent demotion of a 6^th Munro (Beinn a’ Chlaidheimh) following a re-survey has done little to reduce the considerable number of footsteps required to stand on their summits. 

Approaching the First 2 Munros: Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair & Sgurr Ban

Moreover, the geography of the group is such that splitting them into 2 days has little material effect on the distance covered.  For this reason, it is perhaps best to swallow the pill and take them all on in one go.  Providing you are hill-fit, choose the right day/time of the year, give some thought to the logistics and don’t plan anything for the day after, you have a good chance of success!

Looking North to Loch an Nid & An Teallach

So, after much deliberation, one previous attempt and with a mindset that oozed flexibility, Matt & Jenn went for it.  As if to illustrate the above points, we chose the week before the summer solstice to give us maximum daylight, put cars at 2 access points and took advantage of a prolonged dry spell so the river crossings would not be a problem.

Beinn Tarsuinn

Leaving a car at Corrie Hallie with the intention of walking out that way and reducing the overall distance by a modest, but precious 2 Km, we drove back along the Destitution Road and parked near Loch a’ Bhraoin (280m) at 08.15.  Five minutes later, the sight of an osprey taking flight immediately before us seemed like a promising omen! 

Climbing the Quartzite Slabs on Sgurr Ban

It was a welcome surprise to find a vehicle track leading all the way along the loch and a short way beyond Lochivraon cottage.  In 2hrs, we were taking our first big break immediately S of Loch an Nid with our first 2 Munros towering above us.  Sunny skies had seen us on our way, but as we toiled up the quartzite boulder field above Coire nan Clach, a cool breeze and cloud aplenty heralded a change.  As if to illustrate the distances involved in climbing these mountains, it was 4hrs 10mins before we stood on our first summit: Sgurr Ban (989m; white peak).

Sgurr Ban

From here we could see all of the day’s 5 Munros which form a horseshoe around Gleann na Muice.  It is probably at this point (and not before) that you can make a judgement call on whether you want to go for all 5 in one day.  The 2^nd hill, however, is very close and following a short, if steep, drop and re-ascent, we were standing on top of Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair (1019m; peak of the corrie of Farquhar’s son).  We had now been walking for 5hrs.

 

Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair

Hill No 3 is not far away either and after another short, steep descent and welcome traverse around the intervening lump of Meall Garbh, we paused again, at Bealach Odhar, before climbing the easy grass slopes of Beinn Tarsuinn (937m; transverse hill) which we summited after 6hrs 15mins.

Beinn Tarsuinn

The traverse of this mountain ridge is very Torridonian in feel (same rock and mountain architecture), but is short-lived before a steep, messy descent and short traverse ends on the wide saddle of Pollan na Muice (525m).  This was just short of half-way on our particular route so we took another long break before the long steady climb up easy grassy slopes to the stunning summit of Munro No 4: A’ Mhaighdean (967m; the maiden) which we attained after 8hrs 35mins. 

Three Down; 2 to Go!  Approaching A' Mhaighdean

This is one of the finest (and remotest) of Munro summits and gives a fantastic view west as the mountain plummets almost vertically to the Dubh and Fionn Lochs and beyond towards Poolewe and the distant sea.

Sugar Ban & Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair

Moving on, reluctantly, it doesn’t take long to descend to the intervening bealach and climb the steep sandstone bluff that leads to the flat summit of Munro No 5: Ruadh Stac Mor (918m; big red stack).  We achieved this at 9hrs 35mins from the car and although tired and pretty foot-sore, the elation at this point will be more than enough to get you home!

A' Mhaighdean & Ruadh Stac Mor

So it was that at 18.00 we started our 5hr walk-out - a sobering thought that once again underlines the uniqueness of the Fisherfield circuit.  As we descended past Fuar Loch Mor, we passed the most remote spot on the UK mainland (as calculated by an OS cartographer and based upon the distance to the nearest road (NH0202077000). 

South From A'Mhaighdean

The key to the first part of the walk-out is the excellent stalkers’ path that leads down into Gleann na Muice Beag to its junction with Gleann na Muice where the latter’s eponymous river provides the 2^nd of 3 potentially problematical river crossing on the route.  Fortunately, we encountered no such difficulty today and, after a 3^rd major break (another key to success),   were soon across and traversing the largely flat heathery ground into Strath na Sealga.

North From Ruadh Stac Mor: The Long Walk-Out Started Here!

In failing light, we crossed our last river obstacle (again, trouble-free), passing the rather forlorn decaying house of Achneigie before summoning one last bout of energy to climb out of Strath na Sealga on the vehicle track that leads (eventually) down into Gleann Chaorachain and ultimately to Corrie Hallie where we arrived at 22.55!

The Sun Going Down Over Strath na Sealga

In all, our round of the Fisherfield Munros involved 42 Kms (26 miles) of walking, 2,420m (7,940’) of climbing and 14 hrs 40 mins of our lives!

We took the next day off!

 

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Ben Lui

  

Ben Lui

The 4 Munros of the Ben Lui group hide above Tyndrum and give only fleeting views as you drive up the A82 or along the A85 to Oban.  On this occasion, we elected to split the group into 2 separate days - at either end of the Knoydart & Mull trip.

 Beinn Dubhchraig & Ben Oss

Ben Oss & Ben Lui

We took my usual walk-in from Tydrum Lower Station into Glen Cononish.  The steep climb up the grassy slopes leading to the NE shoulder of Beinn Dubhchraig was straightforward, if a little damp, as the only rain of the entire trip welcomed Matt & Jenn back to the Highlands.

Beinn Dubhchraig

We did have clear views throughout the day, however, and were soon traversing the broad ridge past the 2 small lochans that lead to the summit of Beinn Dubhchraig (978m; hill of the black rock).

Ben Oss

Retracing our steps to the lochans, we descended steeply (but mercifully briefly) to the bealach above Coire Buidhe before climbing steadily up the narrowing ridge that leads to Ben Oss (1029m; hill of the elk).

Beinn a’ Chleibh & Ben Lui

Ben Lui

The last day of the Knoydart & Mull trip saw us parking in Glen Lochy, fording the eponymous river (relatively easily in this dry spell) and negotiating the low headroom afforded by the railway bridge before finally starting the climb up the day’s mountains!  Doctor Jon joined us for this last day having decided the current spell of great weather was just too good to miss!

Fording the River Lochy

Forestry works further complicate the ascent just now but a clearly marked and helpful diversion make for easy-going and we were soon breaking out of the trees and heading up into Fionn Choirein.  Once on the skyline, we headed west and climbed the easy slopes to the large flat grassy summit of Beinn a’ Chleibh (916m; hill of the chest).  Despite being one of the lowest Munros, its western position gives great views in that direction.  It’s a nice wee hill.

Beinn a’ Chleibh

We descended back to the bealach and started the main climb of the day up the steady incline that leads to the dramatic twin summits of Ben Lui.  The sudden drop down into Coire Gaothach is all the more impressive following the relatively viewless ascent of the mountain from the west.

Ben Lui From Glen Lochy

Today, light wispy cloud obscured the best of the views, but it is always a pleasure to stand on top of this, one of the finest hills in the southern Highlands: Ben Lui (1130m; hill of the calf).

Ben Lui & Beinn a’ Chleibh

Despite the cloudy summit, we descended in good spirits, negotiating all the obstacles before arriving back at the car to see both mountains bathed in sunshine and clear skies!! Ah well, that’s the way it goes…

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Knoydart & Mull

The Hills of Knoydart

As if in reward for the seemingly endless mild, wet and sunless winter just gone, May 2016 has seen a sustained period of warm, dry and very sunny weather in the NW Highlands.  As such, our timing was perfect for 2 of the finest areas on the west coast of Scotland: the remote peninsula of Knoydart and the special island of Mull.

Ladhar Bheinn

Ladhar Bheinn

This majestic mountain (one of Scotland’s finest), is best approached from the north where the full glory of the mountain’s defining feature, Coire Dhorrcail, can be fully appreciated.  Unfortunately, logistically, Knoydart is best accessed by ferry from the south (Mallaig) with the walk beginning in Inverie.

The Knoydart Ferry

Logisitcs won out this time so immediately after arriving at Inverie we headed north out of the village and over Mam Uidhe into Gleann na Guiserein. At this point, Ladhar Bheinn’s uniformly steep southern grassy slopes loom into view and the climb ahead is pretty straightforward.

Beinn Sgritheall & Loch Hourn

The track ends at the bridge immediately before the ruin of Folach, after which a path curves left around a conifer plantation and climbs steadily to the skyline ridge of An Diollaid.  From here, the view northwards suddenly unfolds with peaks disappearing as far as the eye can see. 

The Summit Ridge of Ladhar Bheinn

Then it’s along the ever-tightening shoulder to the 400m-long summit ridge which is punctuated by a half-demolished trig point, the summit cairn itself and one further cairn which gives one of the finest viewpoints in the Highlands - Ladhar Bheinn (1020m; hoof hill).

Core Dhorrcail From the Eastern Summit

 views north and east are to die for so try and keep the mountain for a clear day. Immediately below you, the eye is led across the mighty chasm of Coire Dhorrcail to the fjord-like Loch Hourn and the mountains of Kintail and the Rough Bounds of Knoydart.  If you’re a hillwaker, try and make this viewpoint at least once!

The View Up Loch Hourn From the Summit

We returned the same way (no golden eagles this time, as on my last visit), and the long miles back up Gleann na Guiserein led us eventually to the welcome refuge of the Old Forge and much-needed sustenance!  

Luinne Bheinn & Meall Buidhe

Luinne Bheinn & Meall Buidhe From Loch Nevis

This is a walking day, much more than a climbing day.  The 2 Munros are not particularly high, complex or difficult.  But they are a long way from home however you do them and from Inverie, you will cover a little over 27Km to gain both summits.

Gleann an Dubh-Lochain

This time, I elected to do them in a clock-wise direction, starting with the long 10Km walk up Gleann an Dubh-Lochain to the pass of Mam Barrisdale (450m).  It is better to do this long walk-in in the morning, whilst relatively fresh, instead of facing it at the end of the day when the miles can feel very weary!

Luinne Bheinn 

From Mam Barrisdale,  we turned right and followed the line of fence-posts for 500m before traversing left up on to Bachd Mhic an Tossaich and the skyline ridge that leads to the summit of Luinne Bheinn (939m; angry hill). Again, great views in all directions await you with the green sward of Barrisdale immediately below you to the north.

Sgurr na Ciche

From the summit, we traversed over the slightly lower eastern top before descending steeply to the connecting ridge between the 2 Munros.  A good path leads over or around all the lumps and bumps before the final steep (but relatively short) climb up to Meall Buidhe’s eastern top. The view east across the Rough Bounds is superlative with the graceful cone of Sgurr na Ciche a particular highlight.  It’s a short hop across to the 2^nd Munro summit of the day: Meall Buidhe (946m; yellow hill).

Meall Buidhe

Not for the first time, the view west out to sea from this summit was bathed in sunshine with a sparkling sea and the islands of the Inner and Outer Hebrides proving to be a great reward for our efforts.  The view stays with you as you descend westwards - and will live long in the memory if you choose the right day!

The View West From the Summit

The most expeditious descent from the mountain’s W ridge begins just as it begins to narrow into Druim Righeanaich. You have a choice between steep grassy slopes or easier-going stony ground.  However, once June arrives, the waist-deep bracken will make any descent here tricky so plan accordingly!  Once down into Gleann Meadail, aim for the obvious bridge immediately east of the choke-point below Torr an Tuirc and pick up the track that leads all the way back to Inverie.

Mull - Ben More

Ben More From the Abhainn Dhiseig

We started, as I’ve always done, from Dhiseig and headed up the signposted track/path alongside the Abhainn Dhiseig.  Ben More doesn’t take long to climb - it’s a very straightforward route, mostly up grassy slopes with some volcanic scree as you approach the summit. 

A' Chioch From Ben More

There’s no walk-in as such, you just get out of the car and walk up the mountain.  The views across Loch na Keal expand steadily as you climb and Iona and Staffa are clearly visible to the west.  In the other direction, looking towards the mainland, there are mountains everywhere!

Although early in the season, we had plenty of company on the hill, but there was no summit string quartet as on a previous visit!  The summit itself is a fine viewpoint as you would expect from the highest point on any island.  This particular summit, however, is always a pleasure to visit: Ben More (966m; big hill).

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm