Return to Skye - Red Cuillin

Beinn Dearg Mhor and Beinn Dearg Beag Across Loch Slapin

Back on Skye and an opportunity to try something different: the Red Cuillin hills in the east of the island. These rounded granite hills contrast markedly with the more famous and popular serrated pinnacles of the volcanic Black Cuillin which make up the Skye Ridge. As you approach Broadford shortly after crossing the Skye Bridge a clutch of prominent rounded peaks loom up above the small town. Foremost amongst these and seemingly guarding Broadford in a protective embrace is Beinn na Caillich (peak of the old woman). This surprisingly high hill (732m) is connected to two similar hills, Beinn Dearg Mhor (709m) and Beinn Dearg Bheag (584m) and the circuit of all 3 makes for a fine half-day’s hill-walking.

Beinn Dearg Bheag and Beinn na Caillich From Broadford

The hills can be accessed directly on foot from Broadford although some may like to leave a car at Old Corry, a couple of miles to the west. Leave the road a little before the first house and head up over climbing moorland aiming for the right-hand skyline of Beinn na Caillich. Avoid a lochan to the left and clamber over some boulders to access easier, but steeper ground up the right-hand skyline. A sketchy path helps and the views widen quickly as you climb. A huge cairn crowns the summit which gives the views you’d expect from the easternmost hill on Skye. To the east, the mainland Munros of Torridon, Kintail and Knoydart can be clearly seen whilst westwards, the Skye Ridge and the other Red Cuillin peaks fill the view. Immediately below you, Coire Fearchair makes for an impressive sight right under your feet! The huge cairn can be seen for miles around and is said to be the burial place of a Norwegian princess from the time of the Viking occupation of Skye. According to legend, she wanted to feel the winds from her homeland around her grave. She would not have been disappointed today although, typically, she failed to show up in person whilst I was there! And I waited ages!

Beinn Dearg Bheag

The going is thankfully much easier as a ridge is followed initially westwards towards a col before sweeping up to the summit of Beinn Dearg Mhor (big red hill). From here, there follows a very tricky steep descent on the most unhelpful type of scree southeast to Bealach Coire Sgreamhach (pass of the scree!). Take care here; trekking poles will help aid balance and keep you upright as you descend. From the bealach, continue up the other side to Beinn Dearg Bheag (little red hill). On this walk, the hills just keep getting lower! From here, head back to Old Corry via the eastern ridge. There is a path initially, but this peters out as you reach the lower slopes and the final mile is over sometimes boggy moorland. Today, this was home to a herd of frisky cows and what I hoped was a non-too frisky bull! I survived long enough to persuade Darren to come and pick me up on the offer of a free beer at the Broadford Inn!

So next time you hurtle over the Skye Bridge bound for the greater challenge of the Black Cuillin, spare a thought for these graceful red hills and and make some time to try a day out on them; you will not be disappointed. But don’t bank on that Norwegian Princess turning up!

She's Under There Somewhere!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm