Hillways: Swiss Alps

Castor and Pollux

Having relocated to Zermatt from Zinal (see previous entry), the plan was to continue with fitness and acclimatisation walks with the eventual aim of climbing one of the 4000m snow peaks in the area and even perhaps the mighty Monte Rosa, the second highest mountain in the Alps! One day was spent on ropework and basic climbing/glacier crossing techniques, and another rockclimbing on the Rifflehorn (2927m) where the local guides like to take their prospective Matterhorn clients to check on their basic climbing skills. Our plan to climb the Monte Rosa was scuppered by poor weather but we managed a further 3 days of alpine walking which included a near success on one of the 4000m peaks above Zermatt.

Oberrothorn (3414m)

Not a very photogenic mountain but a useful one for acclimatisation! A quick ride up the Sunnegga funicular railway deposited us above the tree line in bright sunshine. This put us in excellent shape to traverse through classic alpine walking terrain to the Fluhalp Hut (2616m) for drinks various and a welcome breather before the real climb of the day. From the hut, a ski track leads up through a rock-strewn landscape to a windy col just below 3000m where some small lingering snow patches entertained the party. Then it was up a well-engineered path that climbs steadily up to the rocky belvedere of the Oberrothorn from which wide views open out in every direction. On returning to the col we climbed up over the Unterrothorn (3103m) before descending down a tightly zig-zagging path and back to Sunnegga. The Unterrothorn is a good location to take in the sunrise over the Zermatt skyilne following a short nighstop at the Fluhalp Hut.

Mettelhorn (3406m)

No leisurely walk-in today, let alone welcoming funicular! No, just turn left in the High Street and climb, climb, climb! This is a minimum 8hr day involving almost 1800m of climbing. And it’s a steep, unrelenting climb as well up past the Edelweiss Restaurant and up into the Trift gorge. Fortunately, our fitness and acclimatisation programme was working and the height was gained reasonably comfortably. In a little under 2 hrs we were at the Hotel du Trift, a large mountain hut with a stunning location below the Ober Gabelhorn and Zinalrothorn. Here, the path turns right and continues climbing to an exposed col above the Hohlicht glacier at just above 3100m. The upper reaches of the climb were covered in late spring snow and a cautious detour eliminated much of the good time we had made in our workmanlike ascent! From the col, the Mettelhorn finally comes into view – a rock pyramid situated 800m across a snowfield which, although generally tame, deserves prudent respect in case of any lurking crevasses. The Mettelhorn gives excellent views down the Mattertal, effectively the Zermatt valley, as well as a front row seat of the mighty Weisshorn, one of the Alps’ most graceful (and highest) peaks. We returned the same way, foregoing any refreshment at the Hotel du Trift in favour of hot chocolate and carrot cake at the Edelweiss!

Castor (4223m)

The mountains will always be there tomorrow; the secret is to make sure you are! A climber who sets out with those wise words firmly lodged in his mind, will never let a sense of failure cloud what would otherwise be a quality mountain day! Thus it was that our unsuccessful attempt at Castor remains as a positive memory of a great day out surrounded by snow, ice and rock with much of it spent close to 4000m. In order to limit the climb to one day, we took the Klein Matterhorn gondola up above the ski slopes and started the glacier traverse from the top station at 3817m. Bedecked with climbing harnesses, helmets, ice axes and crampons, our small party of family and friends roped up and trailed over the Breithorn Pass, traversing below the Breithorn and Pollux until we stood at the foot of the snow dome of Castor, one of the easier 4000m alpine peaks. All the time, however, dark clouds were approaching from the west and as we began our final climb heavy snow showers could be clearly seen over the Zermatt valley. Just after passing the 4000m point in our steady plod up the final icy slope to the summit we called a halt and turned to retrace our steps back to the gondola station. We still had 45 mins to go to the summit, a further 2 hrs for the return and the weather didn’t look like it was going to do us any favours. Under the circumstances, it was a prudent if disappointing decision. At least the day gave the group good experience of the factors involved in tackling the higher alpine peaks and proved to be a useful introduction to glacier travel. The views weren’t bad either – we even got to see Mont Blanc before the clouds rolled in!