The Jaws of Drumochter

All this snow and an unexpected opportunity to get out for a solo romp over some Munros conspired to have me driving up a strangely traffic-free A9 at a dark early hour. My target for the day was the group of 4 hills which lie immediately to the west of the Pass of Drumochter (462m) overlooking the A9. On earlier visits, I had climbed these hills over 2 separate days but I was determined that all 4 would go in this single short winter’s day. Given the high start, easy-going on frozen ground and the close proximity of the A9, I knew it could be done.

The Drumochter hills hardly rate amongst Scotland’s greatest but there’s really no such thing as a bad Scottish hill! Sgairneach Mhor is a typically rounded Grampian lump with 3 well-defined spurs extending from the summit plateau. It’s most impressive feature is a cliff-girdled corrie cradled in its northern slopes: Coire Creagach. Beinn Udlamain, the highest of the group is simply a long ridge oriented NE to S with a line of old rusting fence posts extending along its entire length. A’ Mharconaich would be undistinguished but for its NE corrie which gives a graceful yet dramatic appearance driving south along the A9 . Regrettably, Geal-charn (one of 6 Munros so named) has no redeeming corrie to offset its rather plain appearance. Nevertheless, all are fine walking hills and on this bitterly cold yet clear February day, they were well placed to provide a memorable day far from the madding crowd.

The View South From Sgairneach Mhor Towards Schiehallion

I parked and crossed the railway and headed west up the stalkers’ track into Coire Dhomhain. Few others were going to share my footsteps and I didn‘t speak to a soul all day. After 2 km of undulating walking over the moraine heaps in the lower glen, I struck left up the open flanks of snow heading for the north east ridge of the hill. The climb does not take long but just as I reached the skyline, cloud descended over the plateau and I was enveloped in a white world of cloud, snow and a chilly wind. Soon after, the summit cairn loomed out of the mist and I reached the summit of Sgairneach Mhor (991m; big scree) some 90 minutes after leaving the A9.

Far From The Madding Crowd

Although the traverse around and across the head of Coire Dhomhain towards Beinn Udlamain is straightforward in clear conditions, today would require care and precise navigation to ensure staying on course. Right on schedule the corrie appeared and the small lochan I was using to locate the line for Beinn Udlamain lay directly ahead! Mist obscured the skyline 200m above me and consequently, the impending climb appeared much more daunting than I knew it to be. So it was that after quite short a climb, the slope eased and the appearance of a line of broken and rusted fence posts led me to the summit cairn of Beinn Udlamain (1011m; jointed, or unsteady hill). All I needed to do now was follow the fence posts north and easy slopes would take me eventually to my 3rd Munro of the day: A’ Mharconaich.

The Ridge North From Beinn Udlamain Towards A’ Mharconaich

Out came the sun, away went the map and compass, and on I went over the frozen stones and snow along the wide crest of the ridge. In the gathering gloom I pressed on - and on - until the second of 2 cairns appeared out of the mist and I stood once again on A’ Mharconaich (975m; place of horses) with a great view suddenly revealed north to Speyside over the mountain’s dramatic NE corrie. Time and daylight were now pressing and I hurried back to where the path on to Geal-charn descends to the intervening bealach above Coire Fhar. Fresh footsteps in the snow helped confirm the line to take and the bealach duly appeared with my last hill of the day looming towards me with its summit just in the clouds. Geal-charn (917m; white hill) is the 6th lowest Munro but its ascent was the 4th of the day a rewarding achievement on a short winter’s day! Fortunately, the line of this mountain is quite straightforward and the going was again easy on hard ground. I descended directly towards Balsporran cottages, strangely dark and quiet although I knew them to be inhabited, as the main road and traffic noise edged closer and closer. Eventually I re-crossed the railway and immediately afterwards came upon the cottages. The lights were indeed out but there were plenty of signs of occupation which was good to see - the highlands have too many ruins.

I left the darkened cottages behind and found the cycle-way which I knew ran parallel to the A9 hereabouts. Walking south, somewhat closer to the road than I had hoped, the glare from the on-coming car headlights kept blinding me and I frequently had to pause until they passed. But slowly, oh so slowly, the dark outline of the Boar of Badenoch slipped by in the darkness and the Jaws of Drumochter gathered me in and pointed the way home.

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm