Ben Nevis - A Battle Royal!

The Only Photo Taken All Day!

Well the MWIS forecast wasn't quite spot on - we were spared the 100mph winds - but it did rain on our parade, very heavily and all day long! Niall flew over from Ireland, Michelle came all the way from New York City and Laura just popped up from Edinburgh - and the 4 of us battled gamely away in the most atrocious conditions all the way to the summit cairn and all the way down again.

Congratulations all on a very impressive achievement. It was not a day for the faint-hearted, nor polite conversation, leisurely picnics or sunbathing. It was a day for hunkering on down and fighting each step of the way; the drive home was pretty ferocious too!

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

Ben Nevis - First Snow of Winter!

The week has started with a pretty brisk up and down the Ben with Cheryl who decided that climbing the highest mountain in the British Isles to raise money for Rett UK ( http://www.rettuk.org/rettuk-public/rettuk.html ) was a great way of remembering a close friend. It certainly was.

The weather forecast was atrocious – strong winds, heavy showers and snow! Accordingly, we started up the hill with an open mind and I took along the ice axes just as a precaution. As it was, we enjoyed the best of the day with little wind and no showers. Yes there was snow and some ice on the upper part of the mountain and yes it started snowing once we were on top, but we had no complaints.

The snow turned to rain and remained with us all the way down but it couldn’t take away Cheryl’s amazing personal achievement, climbing her first mountain in a most creditable time (6½hrs from start to finish) and raising over £1,000 for a great cause.

It was a privilege to guide her.

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

North Wales 2011 – Bringing It All Back Home

Y Garn From Tryfan

A series of energetic convective fronts have seemingly straddled northern Britain for as long as I can remember this late summer/early autumn. This has resulted in repeated and sustained precipitation in all heatwave-excluded areas of the UK leading to swollen rivers, waterlogged ground and the most miserable meteorological conditions. This will not have gone unnoticed by anyone attempting to ply an honest trade in the upland areas of this windswept little island that clings – with some obstinacy it seems – to the eastern fringes of the mighty Atlantic Ocean!

In other words, it’s been raining for ever!

Carnedd Dafydd & the Black Ladders

Long ago and far away a far-sighted local education authority in NW London bought some old stables in a beautiful valley on the western edge of Snowdonia. School parties from the area were organised, initially to work on the stables to make them habitable, and then to use it them a base for outdoor activities. Thus began my life-long love affair with mountains and all that goes with them. The mountains of N Wales will always have a special place in my heart and so I was delighted when Jennifer asked me to return there with her and help her get to know them better. Needless to say, most of the accompanying photos come from another time!

Carnedd Dafydd From Carnedd Llywelyn

Regrettably, the weather gods conspired to dent our master plan of completing all fourteen 3,000’ peaks in the Snowdonia National Park over a 4-day period and we ultimately spent just 2 days of trudging through the wind and rain on what turned out to be a largely viewless return to my mountain roots.

Pen y Ole Wen From Llyn Idwal

Day 1 saw a welcome ‘high’ start (305m) from the eastern end of Lyn Ogwen for a gentle climb up the well-marked, if squelchy, path alongside the Afon Lloer. Just before reaching the well-hidden glacial tarn of Ffynnon Lloer (fountain of the moon), we turned left up some entertaining scrambles through a couple of rock bands before gaining the upper ridge that leads to the surprisingly flat summit of Pen yr Ole Wen (978m; hill of the white light). No views of course and it took some concentrated map and compass work to locate the rounded ridge that leads NW and then N from here to the other peaks of the Carneddau range.

Carnedd Dafydd From Pen y Ole Wen

These followed in quick succession, largely insignificant knuckles on a gently meandering ridge with intermittent boulder fields proving to be decidedly dodgy in the wet. Carnedd Dafydd (1044m; David’s Cairn) came and went and we had no sight of the dark dank cliffs of Ysgolion Duon (black ladders) that plunge into the abyss on the N side of the ridge. Then came the sneaky left turn in the ridge at Craig Llugwy before the final easy climb to Carnedd Llywelyn (1064m; Llywelyn’s Cairn).

Carnedd Llywelyn From Pen yr Helgi Du

Still no views and very wet and windy so we decided against any further misery and descended to the Ogwen valley SE via Ffynnon Llugwy. Soon after leaving the summit, the clouds finally relented and wide, if misty, vistas opened out over lonely Cwm Eigiau with its deserted slate mine buildings. We were also granted a view of the sharp wedge of Tryfan across the Ogwen valley. Immediately below us we were now able to inspect the vertical cliffs of Craig yr Ysfa whilst ahead lay the shapely mounds of Pen yr Helgi Du (hill of the black hound) and Pen Lithrig y Wrach (the delightfully named slippery hill of the witch)!

Pen Lithrig y Wrach and Pen yr Helgi Du

The long straight metalled reservoir access road took us quickly back to the A5 which we followed for a mercifully short mile back to the car. We were almost dry by the time we got to the car. Almost…

Tryfan

Day 2 saw a return to Llyn Ogwen this time to tackle some peaks in the Glyder range on the opposite side of the road. Unfortunately, an unrelenting fine drizzle was falling out of thick and very low clouds and we limited ourselves to an extended circuit of the finest corrie in Wales, Cwm Idwal. The excellent path carried us up to the cwm, past the Idwal Slabs and up the distinctive gash of Twll Du (black hole a.k.a. Devil’s Kitchen).

Cwm Idwal

Once on the skyline, we passed by Llyn y Cwn almost invisible in the murk before the steady climb to the big pile of stones and shelter that marks the summit of Y Garn (947m; the cairn). Shortly after leaving the summit we left the windy ridge for the peaceful calm of the mountain’s NE corrie and, whilst the drizzle persisted, the absence of wind was as welcome as it was sudden.

Pen y Ole Wen Across Cwm Idwal

The path descends steeply back into Cwm Idwal and is being repaired lower down – more excellent work from the National Park path-builders! Soon Llyn Idwal emerged from the cloud, then the outward path and finally the road. In 3½hrs we had visited a great corrie, been close to some amazing rock architecture and climbed one the region’s finest peaks. All we really had to show for our efforts were wet clothes and a couple of unused cameras!

Yet Another Heavy Shower (this one missed)!

So in the face of unrelenting rain, 4 days became 2 days and we spent the rest of the time driving around some old haunts, drinking copious amounts of coffee and reading vast amounts of Sunday newsprint. There’s only so much punishment you can take. Better luck next year! Perhaps…..

It was still great to be back though!

Defiant in the Face of Adversity!

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

Torridon 2011

Liathach

Autumnal winds and rain combined to provide a challenging few days in Torridon last week but Christine was delighted with her first visit to this sublime land of monster mountains! Saving the best days for the best peaks, we filled in the remaining generally dreich days with some micro nav practice, one of Scotland’s finest Corbetts and a drive to Ullapool to check out the latte situation! The lengthening evenings were mainly spent watching my box set of Eddie Izzard DVDs whilst listening to the rain hammering against the windows!

Liathach

High on the Mountain

Always reserved for the best day of any visit to Torridon, Scotland’s most majestic mountain never fails to impress those I take on their first visit. Filling the view as you pass Loch Clair at the eastern entrance to Glen Torridon, this mighty battleship of a mountain appears impregnable. Fortunately, an excellent wee path leads almost directly up into the hanging corrie of Toll a’ Meitheach before climbing across the upper mountain-side to a small, sharp bealach immediately west of the easternmost top of the mountain.

The Summit Ridge of Liathach

We followed this path and were almost immediately rewarded by the sight of a golden eagle high above us flying powerfully against the strong southerly wind and maintaining height without one single wing flap. Very impressive - and it was the only bird we saw on the mountain all day! Those taking this route up on to the mountain – and there aren’t too many others to choose from – should always always always take time to take the short detour on to Liathach’s easternmost top, Stuc a’ Choire Dhuibh Bhig (915m; peak of the little black corrie). Apart from giving an excellent view across to neighbouring Beinn Eighe, it is from here you get the classic view of Liathach’s summit ridge. A roof-top of quartzite boulders twists and turns towards the mountain’s highest point above near-vertical red Torridonian sandstone terraces that fall away to the valley floor, far below.

Am Fasarinen Pinnacles

The next hour was spent winding our way along this highway in the sky before the final steep, if short, climb up to the summit of the mountain: Spidean a’ Choire Leith (1055m; peak of the grey corrie). It is only when you get to this point that Liathach’s central and western sections become visible with the sandstone pinnacles of Am Fasarinen leading the eye on to the distinctive summit of Mullach an Rathain.

The Alternative Path Avoiding Am Fasarinen

It remained very windy despite the sunshine and we opted out of the pinnacles mid-way along and traded the exposed ridgeline for the alternative path that traverses the southern side of the mountain a few metres below the crest. Am Fasarinen safely negotiated, we followed the path across a surprisingly broad patch of grass and up the increasingly defined ridge to our 2nd Munro of the day, Mullach an Rathain (1023m; summit of the pinnacles).

Mullach an Rathain, Liathach

Most folk’s daily walking schedule will ensure they get to this western summit in the late afternoon when a lower angle of sun and the warmest time of the day combine to enhance the view west out over Loch Torridon towards Skye. Always a pleasure; never a chore!

Spidean a’ Choire Leith From Mullach an Rathain

When descending from here directly south into Glen Torridon, take great care – the upper corrie of Toll Ban (white hole) is badly eroded and a real nightmare to negotiate. It is now much better – and safer – to keep to the western arm of Toll Ban for a few hundred metres before descending left down into the corrie. A reasonable path is intercepted and followed back down into Glen Torridon. The 3Km walk back along the floor of the Glen to the car is never tedious – just keep looking up at the soaring sandstone terraces of Liathach (the grey one) and reflect on what should be one of your great mountain days!

Fuar Tholl

Fuar Tholl Above Achnashellach

To the south of Glen Torridon lie a clutch of peaks within the Coulin Forest. Lacking the insular property of the Torridonian giants, they nevertheless represent fine mountains deserving of a visit by more than just Munro baggers! Whilst it is the 3 Munros here that will attract most attention, my own favourite is the Corbett of Fuar Tholl. Whilst this impressive chunk of Torridonian sandstone presents gentle grassy slopes to the south, its most impressive features are the sheer buttresses and steep-sided corries that girdle the mountain’s northern and eastern aspects.

Fuar Tholl From the South-East

Regrettably, Chris got to see very little of my favourite Corbett as persistent rain and thick cloud denied her any meaningful glimpse of the upper mountain. However, she did get to enjoy the scenic climb up into Coire Lair from Achnashellach Station at the start of the day, as well as the colourful views of rain-washed upper Glen Carron once we emerged from the clouds sometime later! There was also the (usual) challenging crossing of the River Lair soon after leaving the main Coire Lair path for the Bhealaich Mhoir and Fuar Tholl’s northern corrie. In between it was very much head down and follow the leader with only the odd roaring stag and alpine flower to threaten the greyness!

The Coulin Forest Peaks

Someone has demolished the fine stone trig point on the summit – the saddest thing I saw all day. Now, only its small protective wall marks the summit of this fine hill, Fuar Tholl (907m; cold hole). Hopefully, the Fuar Tholl Preservation Society will rebuild it soon – once they have some members!

Beinn Eighe

Beinn Eighe From Glen Torridon

Similar in length to Liathach, but composed mainly of Cambrian quartzite, hence its light-coloured appearance, Beinn Eighe (file mountain) looks more like a mountain range (similar to the Grey Corries perhaps) than a single mountain. Like Liathach, it also comprises 2 Munros and several intervening summits. However, its most spectacular feature lies hidden at the north-western end of the massif where the towering walls of the Triple Buttress enclose mighty Coire Mhic Fhearchair and its eponymous loch.

Liathach From Beinn Eighe

It was amazingly warm and windless as we left the car on the excellent path up into Coire an Laoigh (corrie of the calves) mid-way along the mountain’s southern flanks that sweep down into Glen Torridon. Two walkers we had encountered in the glen walking in the wrong direction appeared to be so disheartened to hear they’d walked an unnecessary additional 4Km at the start of their day, they promptly got back into their car and drove away! No such problems for us though as we climbed under gathering clouds up the steepening corrie headwall to the trig point (this one was still standing!) that marked our arrival on the main ridgeline.

Eastern Ridge of Beinn Eighe

The first Munro of the day lay just 200m to the east and we battled against the strengthening wind to quickly secure both the peak and the accompanying views in both directions along the long main ridge of the mountain: Spidean Coire nan Clach (993m; peak of the stony corrie).

Looking West From Spidean Coire nan Clach

Back at the trig point and still with great views despite the approaching clouds and heavy showers, we hastened westwards over quartzite boulders, sandstone pavements and lush grass to the level mossy summit of Coinneach Mhor (big moss) before leaving the main ridge for the northern spur that leads to the mountain’s highest point: Ruadh-stac Môr (1010m; big red peak). Chris whooped with delight at one last grand view from the summit cairn before the cloud and rain swept in with a vengeance and restricted us to views of each other as we returned via the outward route. Almost the last thing we saw was a big, noisy red deer stag moving down into Coire Mhic Fhearchair, his bellowing roar echoing around the mighty rock amphitheatre. We eventually descended below the cloud-line quite low down the mountain as we returned to Glen Torridon and the waiting car.

Beinn Eighe From Kinlochewe

The grim weather continued for the remainder of the week and there is only so much squelchy trudging you can tolerate in the pursuit of happiness. To her great credit, Chris agreed and she was happy to leave Slioch and Beinn Alligin for the return visit she had quickly realised it would take to do these amazing mountains justice!

Check out my future plans for this winter on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/winter/winter.htm

Knoydart & Kintail

The Five Sisters of Kintail - Sgurr Fhuaran

We sailed into Knoydart with the remnants of Hurricane Katia bearing down on us. We sailed out 3 days later in sublime west coast sunshine, a flat calm and blue skies! In between, we sat out the storm and waited for conditions to allow us one big mountain day before moving on to Kintail where we faired somewhat better. Catherine will have to return to Knoydart to add Ladhar Bheinn to her rapidly growing list of Munros but her accomplished traverse of the Forcan Ridge in Kintail in difficult conditions more than made up for any unclimbed mountains.

Knoydart: Meall Buidhe & Luinne Bheinn

The Knoydart Munros From the Inverie Ferry

This 26Km round of 2 Munros and the huge, ice-stripped bowl of Coire Odhair is never easy but we managed it in under 9hrs in reasonable conditions and with some views. For the 2nd time in as many months, a stalking group passed us on the walk-in and the sight of them and some fishermen on the Inverie River reminded us that this is very much a working estate, not just a hill-walkers playground. We walked up into Gleann Meadail before striking up the bracken-covered hillside on to Druim Righeanaich and followed the long, gently climbing ridge to the summit of Meall Buidhe (946m; yellow hill). There’s a 70m dip before the final climb to the summit which less than impressed Catherine I can tell you, so be warned of false summits!

Catherine 'Bathing' in the Sunshine on Luinne Bheinn!

The mountain’s SE Top lies a short distance away from where the path plunges steeply (but clearly) down and then over a series of humps and hillocks that form the enclosing ridge of Coire Odhair. This route can be tricky in cloudy conditions so take care and avoid any difficulties by staying on the west side of the ridge. The view to the east includes the distinctive cone of Sgurr na Ciche and the very impressive Corbett of Ben Aden. A smidgen of sun emerged from behind dark clouds – enough for Catherine to declare we were now officially ‘bathing’ in sunshine! Being from Oban, her views on what constitutes meaningful sunshine obviously differ from mine…

Luinne Bheinn

The lowest point on the ridge (684m) comes just before the climb up steep grassy slopes to the next Munro: Luinne Bheinn (939m; swelling hill). Like Meall Buidhe, this peak has 2 summits; in this case, the highest point is again the western-most one which is 2m higher and 500m to the west of the lower summit. Great views suddenly emerged down to Barrisdale and across Loch Hourn to Arnisdale – one (and probably the only) advantage of Luinne Bheinn being such a steeply-sided mountain on all sides!

Meall Buidhe & Sgurr na Ciche From Inverie

With our long 2hr walk-out stretched out below us we descended to the bealach (pass) of Mam Barrisdale and picked up the squelchy, but reasonable, track that took us nearly all the way home. I say nearly as, right on cue, our stalking friends appeared in their fully-functioning land rover and kindly carried us without any effort from our own legs the short (but very important) last mile to the bunkhouse!

Kintail: The Saddle & Sgurr na Sgine

The Forcan Ridge of The Saddle

Unfortunately, Jon couldn’t make the Kintail leg of our trip so it was just the 2 of us who journeyed north from Fort William in brilliant sunshine to climb some classic west coast mountains. The drive down Glen Shiel never fails to impress and that first view of the coast at Loch Duich as you round the curve at Shiel Bridge is always a special moment. The fire damage from last April when widespread wind-driven flames leapt up the lower slopes of the Five Sisters of Kintail was hardly noticeable. Mother Nature has once again woven her magic spell in covering the charred hillside in lush, new verdant greenery!

Approaching the Forcan Ridge

The next day (naturally), dawned grey, windy and wet. The cloudbase was pretty high though and we embarked on one of the area’s finest excursions: the ascent of The Saddle via that mountain’s scintillating Forcan Ridge! One of the best stalkers’ paths in Scotland leads up from the road and across the slopes of Meallan Odhar. An hour leads to an intervening ridge which curves and climbs up to below The Saddle’s rocky E Top: Sgurr na Forcan to become the Forcan Ridge. What follows can easily be avoided in hostile weather by traversing to the south and remaining below the ridge. Today, however, it was just good enough to continue and we remained on the ridgeline as it reared up into what becomes a sharp, rocky knife-edge of a ridge that concentrates the mind wonderfully!

The Saddle

After reaching the top of Sgurr na Forcan, a more horizontal ridge continues, but it remains very exposed on both sides with some difficult steps that require great care. A short way after leaving Sgurr na Forcan, a seemingly impossible down-step can be avoided down a greasy gulley on the south side of the ridge that enables the ridge to be regained after the difficult step. Eventually, the ground rises to another rocky summit beyond which a short horizontal ridge leads to the summit of The Saddle (1010m). This is the only Munro to have solely an English name with no Gaelic equivalent. It is a great, complex mountain with ridges radiating in all directions and views – on a good day – as good as anywhere. An OS trig point lies 1m lower and 100m further to the W of the main summit.

The Forcan Ridge

After the excitement of the Forcan Ridge, we descended the easy way to the S of the summit, down steep slopes and over a slippery boulder field to the Bealach Coire Mhalagain. Here, a small lochan provides a useful navigation feature in misty conditions. A sketchy path then climbs the hillside to the SE on to the skyline. Here we saw our only people of the day: passing huddles of gore-tex that were returning from our next peak. Soon after, the clouds lifted to reveal bright, if fleeting, sunshine and views along the S Glen Shiel Ridge and across Loch Hourn to the familiar peaks of Knoydart. Ahead, beyond an intermediate Top, lay our 2nd Munro: Sgurr na Sgine (946m; peak of the knife). Don’t be fooled by the gentle approach – the mountain plummets down near-vertical cliffs immediately to the SE of the summit cairn!

Sgurr na Sgine

We returned to the bealach and traversed below Sgurr na Forcan to pick up our outward route and follow it back to the car.

Kintail: Bheinn Fhada & A’Ghlas-bheinn.

Bheinn Fhada

Bheinn Fhada is another fine, complex mountain that extends for 8Km and embraces steep corries, unrelenting grassy slopes and, unusually for these parts, a great flat plateau on top - the Plaide Mhor (great blanket).

The Gates of Affric

We parked, as always, in the woods at Dorusduain and crossed the essential footbridge over the Abhainn Chonaig before joining the excellent path from Morvich. This leads into scenic Gleann Choinneachan which today, was very green, very quiet and very warm! The sunshine continued as we climbed up into Coire an Sgairne and on to the skyline. This is the best route on to Bheinn Fhada – an excellent stalkers’ path that leads all the way on to the Plaide Mhor and with the precipitous northern corries of the mountain and rain-swelled burns for added interest!

Gleann Choinneachan

Once on the plateau, a more sketchy path led us across the Plaide Mhor and eventually up the flat summit and trig point of Bheinn Fhada (1032m; long hill). The views are great: east along Glen Affric to the Great Glen, west across the Plaide Mhor to the sea and a distant Skye, and south to the Five Sisters of Kintail. It is a place to linger on a good day and savour the location.

The Summit of Bheinn Fhada & the Plaide Mhor

We returned part way down our stalkers’ path before traversing around and up to the Bealach an Sgairne: the Gates of Affric. This glacial meltwater channel is the closest point that Scotland’s E-W watershed comes to the west coast. Above it, to the north, a clear and easy path climbs on to the interminable hummocky SE ridge of our 2nd Munro: A’Ghlas-bheinn (918m; the grey-green hill). This otherwise unremarkable hill holds good memories and deserves to be visited occasionally. It is best descended along its broad, grassy W ridge that drops in steps to a beautiful spot by a new bridge where the Strath Croe path to the Falls of Glomach emerges from the forest.

Strath Croe & Loch Duich From A’Ghlas-bheinn

We followed the forest tracks back down to Dorusduain in bright sunshine but with a black sky chasing us and the green glen bedecked with brilliant rainbows. It was yet another golden moment, one of several I’ve enjoyed in this glen over the years. As if to underline how lucky we had been, we drove back to the accommodation in torrential rain!

Rainbow & Dark Skies Over A’Ghlas-bheinn!

It’s been an singularly unspectacular summer weather-wise and this week’s autumnal winds and heavy showers do not bode well for next week’s trip to Torridon. You never know though………

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm