Liathach
Autumnal winds and rain combined to provide a challenging few days in Torridon last week but Christine was delighted with her first visit to this sublime land of monster mountains! Saving the best days for the best peaks, we filled in the remaining generally dreich days with some micro nav practice, one of Scotland’s finest Corbetts and a drive to Ullapool to check out the latte situation! The lengthening evenings were mainly spent watching my box set of Eddie Izzard DVDs whilst listening to the rain hammering against the windows!
Liathach
High on the Mountain
Always reserved for the best day of any visit to Torridon, Scotland’s most majestic mountain never fails to impress those I take on their first visit. Filling the view as you pass Loch Clair at the eastern entrance to Glen Torridon, this mighty battleship of a mountain appears impregnable. Fortunately, an excellent wee path leads almost directly up into the hanging corrie of Toll a’ Meitheach before climbing across the upper mountain-side to a small, sharp bealach immediately west of the easternmost top of the mountain.
The Summit Ridge of Liathach
We followed this path and were almost immediately rewarded by the sight of a golden eagle high above us flying powerfully against the strong southerly wind and maintaining height without one single wing flap. Very impressive - and it was the only bird we saw on the mountain all day! Those taking this route up on to the mountain – and there aren’t too many others to choose from – should always always always take time to take the short detour on to Liathach’s easternmost top, Stuc a’ Choire Dhuibh Bhig (915m; peak of the little black corrie). Apart from giving an excellent view across to neighbouring Beinn Eighe, it is from here you get the classic view of Liathach’s summit ridge. A roof-top of quartzite boulders twists and turns towards the mountain’s highest point above near-vertical red Torridonian sandstone terraces that fall away to the valley floor, far below.
Am Fasarinen Pinnacles
The next hour was spent winding our way along this highway in the sky before the final steep, if short, climb up to the summit of the mountain: Spidean a’ Choire Leith (1055m; peak of the grey corrie). It is only when you get to this point that Liathach’s central and western sections become visible with the sandstone pinnacles of Am Fasarinen leading the eye on to the distinctive summit of Mullach an Rathain.
The Alternative Path Avoiding Am Fasarinen
It remained very windy despite the sunshine and we opted out of the pinnacles mid-way along and traded the exposed ridgeline for the alternative path that traverses the southern side of the mountain a few metres below the crest. Am Fasarinen safely negotiated, we followed the path across a surprisingly broad patch of grass and up the increasingly defined ridge to our 2nd Munro of the day, Mullach an Rathain (1023m; summit of the pinnacles).
Mullach an Rathain, Liathach
Most folk’s daily walking schedule will ensure they get to this western summit in the late afternoon when a lower angle of sun and the warmest time of the day combine to enhance the view west out over Loch Torridon towards Skye. Always a pleasure; never a chore!
Spidean a’ Choire Leith From Mullach an Rathain
When descending from here directly south into Glen Torridon, take great care – the upper corrie of Toll Ban (white hole) is badly eroded and a real nightmare to negotiate. It is now much better – and safer – to keep to the western arm of Toll Ban for a few hundred metres before descending left down into the corrie. A reasonable path is intercepted and followed back down into Glen Torridon. The 3Km walk back along the floor of the Glen to the car is never tedious – just keep looking up at the soaring sandstone terraces of Liathach (the grey one) and reflect on what should be one of your great mountain days!
Fuar Tholl
Fuar Tholl
Fuar Tholl Above Achnashellach
To the south of Glen Torridon lie a clutch of peaks within the Coulin Forest. Lacking the insular property of the Torridonian giants, they nevertheless represent fine mountains deserving of a visit by more than just Munro baggers! Whilst it is the 3 Munros here that will attract most attention, my own favourite is the Corbett of Fuar Tholl. Whilst this impressive chunk of Torridonian sandstone presents gentle grassy slopes to the south, its most impressive features are the sheer buttresses and steep-sided corries that girdle the mountain’s northern and eastern aspects.
Fuar Tholl From the South-East
Regrettably, Chris got to see very little of my favourite Corbett as persistent rain and thick cloud denied her any meaningful glimpse of the upper mountain. However, she did get to enjoy the scenic climb up into Coire Lair from Achnashellach Station at the start of the day, as well as the colourful views of rain-washed upper Glen Carron once we emerged from the clouds sometime later! There was also the (usual) challenging crossing of the River Lair soon after leaving the main Coire Lair path for the Bhealaich Mhoir and Fuar Tholl’s northern corrie. In between it was very much head down and follow the leader with only the odd roaring stag and alpine flower to threaten the greyness!
The Coulin Forest Peaks
Someone has demolished the fine stone trig point on the summit – the saddest thing I saw all day. Now, only its small protective wall marks the summit of this fine hill, Fuar Tholl (907m; cold hole). Hopefully, the Fuar Tholl Preservation Society will rebuild it soon – once they have some members!
Beinn Eighe
Beinn Eighe
Beinn Eighe From Glen Torridon
Similar in length to Liathach, but composed mainly of Cambrian quartzite, hence its light-coloured appearance, Beinn Eighe (file mountain) looks more like a mountain range (similar to the Grey Corries perhaps) than a single mountain. Like Liathach, it also comprises 2 Munros and several intervening summits. However, its most spectacular feature lies hidden at the north-western end of the massif where the towering walls of the Triple Buttress enclose mighty Coire Mhic Fhearchair and its eponymous loch.
Liathach From Beinn Eighe
It was amazingly warm and windless as we left the car on the excellent path up into Coire an Laoigh (corrie of the calves) mid-way along the mountain’s southern flanks that sweep down into Glen Torridon. Two walkers we had encountered in the glen walking in the wrong direction appeared to be so disheartened to hear they’d walked an unnecessary additional 4Km at the start of their day, they promptly got back into their car and drove away! No such problems for us though as we climbed under gathering clouds up the steepening corrie headwall to the trig point (this one was still standing!) that marked our arrival on the main ridgeline.
Eastern Ridge of Beinn Eighe
The first Munro of the day lay just 200m to the east and we battled against the strengthening wind to quickly secure both the peak and the accompanying views in both directions along the long main ridge of the mountain: Spidean Coire nan Clach (993m; peak of the stony corrie).
Looking West From Spidean Coire nan Clach
Back at the trig point and still with great views despite the approaching clouds and heavy showers, we hastened westwards over quartzite boulders, sandstone pavements and lush grass to the level mossy summit of Coinneach Mhor (big moss) before leaving the main ridge for the northern spur that leads to the mountain’s highest point: Ruadh-stac Môr (1010m; big red peak). Chris whooped with delight at one last grand view from the summit cairn before the cloud and rain swept in with a vengeance and restricted us to views of each other as we returned via the outward route. Almost the last thing we saw was a big, noisy red deer stag moving down into Coire Mhic Fhearchair, his bellowing roar echoing around the mighty rock amphitheatre. We eventually descended below the cloud-line quite low down the mountain as we returned to Glen Torridon and the waiting car.
Beinn Eighe From Kinlochewe
The grim weather continued for the remainder of the week and there is only so much squelchy trudging you can tolerate in the pursuit of happiness. To her great credit, Chris agreed and she was happy to leave Slioch and Beinn Alligin for the return visit she had quickly realised it would take to do these amazing mountains justice!
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