Glen Coe

Bidean nam Bian

With only 7 Munros to go, David thought it prudent to get a little help with finishing off the big rocky mountains that line the southern fringe of majestic Glen Coe. Here, above the much-photographed Three Sisters, all ridges lead to the surprisingly diminutive cairn atop the big bulky massif of Bidean nam Bidean, the highest point in Argyll. This peak lies hidden from the A82 as it snakes its way down the ‘Glen of Weeping’. However, a second Munro, Stob Coire Sgreamhach, and the graceful cone of Stob Coire nan Lochan can be seen from the road and these 3 peaks make a great – and not overly long – mountain day in a stunning part of the Scottish Highlands.

Coire Gabhail - The Lost Valley

Setting off from the upper of the 2 adjacent car parks half-way down the Glen, we immediately lost 30m (a point not lost on David) in descending to cross the River Coe. Then it was up the excellent path that leads into Coire Gabhail - the Lost Valley - where the MacDonalds reputedly hid their stolen cattle, although stumbling over the boulders that guard the entrance to this hanging valley, it’s unclear exactly how they got them up here! A tree creeper flitting up and down a nearby birch provided added interest as did the occasional deer on the upper slopes (not long until the rut starts)! Once through the boulder field, the sudden flatness of the valley floor always surprises people on their first visit and it’s always good to be here.

Looking Back Down Coire Gabhail

The path crosses the flats and then climbs leisurely up the right-hand side of the valley towards the skyline. A gentle shower (the only rain of the day) threatened to spoil our day but soon relented, as did the clouds, and we picked our way up the ever-steepening headwall. Take care here as the much-repaired path gives way to slippery scree and the final 20m is tricky on pink rhyolite gravel in a steep narrow gulley. A small cairn marks th e point where the path meets the skyline at the Bealach Dearg (red pass). This route is probably best avoided in descent.

The Etive Hills

We turned left and climbed the easy 120m to the summit of Stob Coire Sgreamhach (1072m; peak of the dreadful corrie). The expansive views across the Etive hills to the south and east were enhanced by a cauldron of clouds that billowed and blew around the surrounding peaks. We had an excellent view of our remaining 2 peaks across the green void of Coire Gabhail.

Coire Gabhail & Bein Fhada From Stob Coire Sgreamhach

We returned the same way back to the Bealach Dearg, paused for lunch in a brief spell of sun, and then climbed through the clouds to our highest point of the day, Bidean nam Bian (1150m; pinnacle of the hills). No view today so we moved quickly on and down the NE ridge rapidly descending to the grassy bealach that separates Bidean from our 3rd peak of the day, Stob Coire nan Lochan (1115m; peak of the corrie of the lochan). The slopes of this fine peak fall away steeply on all sides but one and its eponymous corrie is one of the most popular destinations in the Highlands for winter skills. I’ve always thought it a mountain truly deserving of Munro status.

Stob Coire nan Lochan

In clearing conditions we descended the eastern arc of Coire an Lochan until the slope levelled out and we slipped left into the corrie itself and followed the excellent path down past numerous waterfalls into Glen Coe and so back to the car.

Stob Coire nan Lochan From Glen Coe

This was an exhilarating 6½ mountain day encompassing 3 fine peaks in pretty good conditions that has set me up nicely for next week and a return to Knoydart and then on to Kintail. Autumn is fast approaching and promises to be a busy fulfilling time! Bring it on!

A Happy Man - Only 5 To Go!!!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm