The Sierra Nevada of the western United
States are a 400-mile long chain of granite peaks that separate the fertile
Central Valley of California from the upland deserts of California and
Nevada. Rising gently from the west and
extending for some 70-miles eastwards, they plummet sharply on their eastern
side. The highest point is the granite
spire of Mt Whitney (14,497’) the
highest point in the contiguous USA.
They are criss-crossed by a multitude of hiking trails, most notably the
John Muir Trail from Whitney to Yosemite and the Pacific Crest Trail
(PCT). The latter traverses the High Sierra watershed on its long and
winding journey between the Mexican and Canadian borders, a walk that can take
over 4 months to complete!
Tina and I didn’t have 4 months and anyway,
there’s a distinct lack of baristas and margarita bars on the PCT! We chose a couple of shorter walks instead.
The Whitney Portal
There are 2 recognised paths up Mt Whitney:
the Main Whitney Trail and the Mountaineer’s Route. Both originate from the Whitney Portal at 8,360’
on the mountain’s eastern side. Both
start with excellent paths that climb up through the pines. Both get you to small scenic mountain lakes
that sit at about 10,000’ and do not require permits to do so. Both get you home in time for tea.
The High Sierra
Lone Pine Lake
Escaping the 40°C heat of the Mojave desert, we set off from
the Portal relishing the relative coolness of the mid-80s! The Main Trail is an easy gradient of gentle
zig-zags that meander upwards below towering, near-vertical granite slabs. Chipmunks, Sierra Bluebirds and the odd sand
lizard all provided added interest and entertainment.
The Whitney Portal From Lone Pine Lake
Taking it all very gently and carrying
nothing much but water and sun cream, we reached Lone Pine Lake (9,850’) in about 2hrs. There had been snow here on my last visit but
that was never going to happen today!
Thirty minutes spent sitting on a rock and watching the fish jump
provided a most agreeable interlude before we headed back down the way we had
come ready for a return to the desert heat!
Lone Pine Lake
As we descended, serial (and serious)
American hikers passed us heading upwards, laden with big heavy sacks which
seem to be the norm around here. They
obviously enjoy their creature comforts when out camping and are prepared to
suffer for them!
Cheeky Chappie!
Lower Boy Scout Lake
The Mountaineer’s Route takes a much shorter
– and steeper – route up Mt Whitney.
However, the first couple of hours is similar, with one notable
exception, to the Main Trail. Indeed,
both routes share the first half-mile of trail until you reach the North Fork
of Lone Pine Creek.
Here, the Mountaineer’s Route diverges and
climbs relatively steeply up through the pines and willow groves before
flattening out for a short distance. The
Creek is crossed twice, but summer water levels shouldn’t pose any
difficulties. What may do, however, are
the Ebersbacher Ledges, a sequence of eroded cracks and ledges that offer a
safe, if a little exposed, route up the granite slabs that enclose the northern
side of the North Fork chute.
The Ebersbacher Ledges!
These
won’t suit everyone and a steady head is required. However, the objective and technical difficulties
are minimal and can be overcome easily, provided the subjective ones can be put
to bed! Unfortunately for us today, a
fallen tree trunk at a critical point on the ledges proved to be a step too far
under the circumstances and I heeded my climbing companion’s advice and got my
arse out of there! Tina’s version of
events may differ slightly from mine, but you get the picture…..
Behind You!!
We still had a cracking day out and lived to
tell the tale and laugh about it afterwards.
We’ll just have to come back and try for the Whitney summit next time…..
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