The first storm of the autumn put paid to the
first 2 days of this week. Consequently,
we spent the rest of the time playing catch-up.
In the end, we managed quite a few hills, some significant Munro
landmarks and finished on a high note with a classic Highland ridge!
The Saddle & Sgurr na Sgine
The tail-end of the storm ensured a wet and
windy morning and it was enough to deter the later starters who followed us a
short way from the car park as we climbed
the excellent stalkers’ path that leads from the A87 around Meallan
Odhar.
The Forcan Ridge looked off-limits so we
traversed below it in slowly improving weather beside the curiously-placed dry
stane dyke to the Bealach Coire Mhalagain.
From here, it was slow, careful progress across slippery wet boulder
fields until we reached the skyline.
From here, a clear path led us up a further 90m to an intervening top
before turning SE for the final easy traverse to the summit cairn of Sgurr na
Sgine (946m).
As we approached the summit cairn, which is
perched right on the edge of the mountain’s almost vertical SE face, we were
greeted by warm sunshine and expansive views in all directions. A welcome, if surprising, change of fortune!
Bealach Coire Mhalagain
We retreated back down to the bealach by
which time the clouds had rolled away from the Saddle. Consequently, it was with distinctly higher
spirits that we resumed our traverse below the Forcan Ridge and were soon
climbing the steep, but easy, slopes that lead almost directly to the trig
point atop the mountain. From here, a
short airy traverse eastwards brought us to the 2nd Munro of the
day, the only one without a Gaelic name: The Saddle (1010m).
Those wishing to traverse the Forcan Ridge
are strongly recommended to climb it rather than descend it! We chose the latter in light of the calmer
wind conditions and absence of cloud but it was a slow old process as many of
the holds are hidden from view in descent and the rock was still slippery from
the morning rain. We were certainly
glad to be done with it and were treated to some amazing atmospherics as we
descended back down to the Glen Shiel.
We certainly earned our Munros that day!
Bla Bheinn
By way of a change from mainland ridges,
today we opted for a quick trip to Skye and the always-enjoyable (and short)
ascent of Bla Bheinn.
Marsco From Bla Bheinn
A much better day saw us climbing up from the
shores of Loch Slapin and up into Coire Uaigneich and remaining clear of cloud
until well up the mountain. We were soon
amongst the summit rocks and although denied a view, were grateful for the
easier day and another Munro for Matt & Jennifer. Bla Bheinn (928m).
Loch Slapin
We descended the same way and were back at
the car in a little over 5hrs – and almost dry!
North Cluanie Ridge
West From the A87
Doctor Jon had now joined us for the remainder
of the week so we wasted no time in getting some serious Munro-bagging in! We left the car 2 miles W of the Cluanie Inn
and headed N along a pretty reasonable path from Spot Height 246. This led us in a mile to a circular sheep
fank after which the serious climbing started.
There followed almost 600m of unrelenting
steep grassy slopes that led almost directly to the flat summit of Aonach
Meadhoin (1001m). There are no easy ways on to this mountain,
but this is the most direct and the hard work only lasts for a couple of hours!
Aonach Meadhoin From the South
Although immersed in cloud from here on in,
we were still able to enjoy the well-defined, largely grassy ridge that leads
westwards to the interesting summit of Sgurr a’Bhealaich Dheirg (1036m).
The summit cairn lies 100m N of the main ridge and it’s a tricky wee
traverse on wet rocks as you follow a short dry stane dyke along to the very
large cairn.
Sgurr a’Bhealaich Dheirg
Finally, we traversed along the easy 2Km to
the final summit of the day: Saileag (956m). This peak is not much more than a bump on the
main ridge and it has an appropriately diminutive cairn as if to acknowledge
the fact!
From here, still in cloud, we descended
quickly to the Bealach an Lapain before turning S and descending very slowly
down what has become a very badly worn excuse of a path that led us down to the
A87.
The Cluanie Hills
Sgurr nan Conbhairean
What at first had been planned as a 5-Munro
day quickly became (very sensibly) a 3-Munro day. And nobody felt in any way short-changed!
We parked at Lundie and followed the old
military road for a kilometre to the radio mast before taking the stalkers’
path north. Boggy at first, the path
becomes drier and more defined once the climbing starts. Soon, we were established on the ridge that
leads to the large flat summit plateau of Carn Ghluasaid (957m). Once again, the summit cairn sits on the edge of a
precipitous corrie rim; it’s a habit in these parts! This was Matt’s 60th Munro so it
was inevitable that Jennifer would waste no time in trumping that particular
milestone….
Carn Ghluasaid
The wind increased dramatically as we
traversed over Creag a’ Chaorainn and we could hardly stand as we crossed the
Glas Bhealach. Thankfully, it relented
equally quickly as we climbed the solifluction levels up to the graceful summit
of Sgurr nan Conbhairean (1109m). Here we celebrated Jennifer’s 100th
Munro (told you!) and took a million photographs in doing so! There was no real view alas, but nothing was
going to spoil such a singular achievement.
Well done Ma’am!
All we had to do now was descend (interesting
in the cloud) a short way before picking up the N ridge of the mountain and
following it for about a mile to pick up our 3rd Munro of the day,
the fairly unspectacular outlier of Sail Chaorainn (1002m). For once, the Munro
is the nearer of 2 almost identical tops that crown this rather flat ridge.
Sail Chaorainn
We did at least enjoy some splendid views
across upper Glen Affric and down into the impressive eastern corries of these
mountains. We returned the way we had
come, traversing just below the summit of Sgurr nan Conbhairean before being
almost blown away once again at the Glas Bhealach. Then it was a descending traverse around the
head of Coire nan Clach to intercept the Carn Ghluasaid path that led us back
to the car.
A’ Chralaig & Mullach Fraoch-choire.
Mullach Fraoch-choire From A' Chralaig
Matt & Jenn had left for home so it was
just Jon and myself who soldiered up (once again) the steep grassy southern
slopes that are the price you pay for these 2 mountains. Keeping a watchful eye on some stalkers in
the glen below, we gained the S ridge that gives much easier going and rapidly
increasing views from this fine
mountain.
Soon it seemed, we were traversing high above
impressive eastern corries before gaining the impressive pillar that serves as
the summit cairn of A’ Chralaig (1120m). From here, the rest of the day spread out
before us as we studied the fine ridge that twists and turns its way N between
the 2 Munros.
We were soon over the intervening top of Stob
Coire na Cralaig and then busy negotiating the increasingly narrow (but
entertaining) ridge that leads to the shapely summit of Mullach Fraoch-choire (1102m) high above upper Glen Affric.
Having usually descended from this mountain
at the earliest opportunity down Coire Odhar, I would recommend staying high
and putting up with the re-ascent of Stob Coire na Cralaig (it’s only 60m). From here, you can descend that hill’s SW
ridge down into An Caorann Mor, the wide glen that leads back to the road. This is a more straightforward route and you
avoid the boggy watershed between Cluanie and Affric. You also reach the floor of the glen close to
the end of the rough track that leads back to the A87.
Try and save these 2 hills and the fine
interconnecting ridge for a clear day.
It’s a great day out and the views are spectacular.
Am Bathach From Cluanie
So another memorable week in Kintail (plus a
day on Skye) came to a close and everyone had something to show for it! I need some warm sun so I’m off to the
Pyrenees where the storms of autumn can’t find me……..
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