Following the challenging week on Skye I
journeyed north to Ullapool and spent a week showing Melanie the wonderful
hills of Coigach. This is a trip of
which I never tire and I rarely return without seeing something special; this
latest foray proved to be no exception!
Apart from the stunning hills, an amazing
coastline and some sublime west coast sunsets, we were treated to regular views of red-throated divers from the
accommodation, some bullfinches beside the roadside and best of all, an otter
in the bay!
Cul Mor
This shapely and slightly complex mountain
offers a relatively high start and an excellent stalker’s path to tempt you up
into its hidden recesses. It is the
highest of the Coigach hills and a Corbett to boot, and it’s location helps provide wonderful views in
all directions. It is well worth the
modest effort required to climb it.
We started opposite the Knockan Crag
visitor’s centre and headed up the obvious path across the open moorland. Soon after rounding an obvious bend, the path
becomes less distinct as it crosses some wetter ground before climbing the easy
slopes of Meallan Diomhain. The flat
summit of this quartzite mound can be passed to its north where the quartzite
gives way to Torridonian sandstone and a broad ridge leads to the steep NE
ridge of the mountain.
Coire Gorm
Pausing only to admire the view across to
Suilven and the impressive Coire Gorm, we then returned to the quartzite as we
climbed the final 200m of boulder field before emerging on the fine summit of
Cul Mor (849m; big back).
Blessed with clear weather, the whole of the
mountain was visible as were all the surrounding peaks of Assynt &
Coigach. It was too nice a day for a
straight descent so we ventured out along Sron Gharbh - the NW ridge of Cul Mor
- where we took lunch overlooking the impressive ‘knockan and lochan’ landscape
of the Inverpolly National Nature Reserve spread out in all its glory below our
lofty perch.
We returned via the bealach between Cul Mor
and its subsidiary top, Creag nan Calman and descended E again avoiding the
summit of Meallan Diomhain (this time to the S) before intercepting the
stalker’s path and following it back to the car. As always, a fine mountain day!
Ben Mor Coigach
Today, we drove the long and winding
single-track road that leads W from Drumrunie to give Melanie a close-up view of
the Summer Isles and Achiltibuie. We
parked at the road’s end at Culnacraig and took the path that climbs (steeply
at first) up on to the broad shoulder that runs SW from Sgurr an
Fhidhleir.
Having passed immediately below today’s
summit, we zig-zagged our way up the grassy slopes that flank the mountain’s N
side and were soon admiring the view from our summit cairn: Ben Mor Coigach (743m; big hill of Coigach).
Following a brief wander over to the
mountain’s main ridge for a view S towards a distant Ullapool and along the ridge to Garbh Choireachan,
we descended the inbound route and were back at the car long before the
promised rain arrived.
Stac Pollaidh
On a blustery day with the threat of heavy
showers, Melanie was quite content with a half-day’s circumnavigation of this
ever-delightful sandstone cone. We took
the excellent path up and around the hill’s E side, briefly visiting the summit
ridge for an airy, if breezy view of the surrounding hills. Then it was on in an anti-clockwise direction
all the way around the hill and back to the car. Stac Pollaidh (612m; steep rock at the pool).
Cul Beag
Cul Beag
Our last day turned out to be cloudy and wet
so we settled for a quick, no frills, up-and-down plod up Cul Mor’s little
brother. We parked close to Spot Height
84m on the Achiltibuie road and launched ourselves up the rough, wet ground
before the steeper summit slopes appeared out of the gloom to lead us to the
cloud-enshrouded summit. No views, so no
photos - from this day anyway! Cul Beag
(769m; little back).
We returned the same way finally emerging
from the clouds only when well down the mountain!
A wonderful holiday taken as part of my 'get fit for Nepal' regime. Keith could not have been a more congenial companion and guide. Next time it's definitely Munro bashing!
ReplyDeleteThank you Melanie. It was a pleasure to guide you. Good luck on the Annapurna Circuit and look forward to hearing all about it!
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