Skye 2011 - Black Cuillin/Blue Sky

Sgurr nan Gillean From Sligachan

Black and blue were the only colours in town last week on the not-so-Misty Isle. Yes, the grass on the lower slopes is slowly turning green, a yellow sun ignited the landscape (literally, as it turned out in some parts) and a blue-green sea shimmered forever all around. However, it was the black gabbro of the Skye Ridge and the unbelievable blue of the Hebridean sky that predominated hour after hour as we scrambled, tip-toed and heaved ourselves over the UK’s finest mountain range.

Bla Bheinn & Loch Slapin

Bla Bheinn

This is always a good one to start with. A straightforward Scottish mountain complete with a short (but interesting) walk-in, towering (but avoidable) cliffs and a great (but great) view of the main Cuillin ridge a few miles to the west. As with all Cuillin summits, the climb starts from sea level from a much needed new car park on the shores of Loch Slapin.

The Skye Ridge From Bla Bheinn

The path follows the north bank of the Allt na Dunaiche and up into grassy Coire Uaigneich before climbing mixed ground up onto the rock-strewn summit of Bla Bheinn (928m; blue hill). Today – as in all the days that followed – the sun shone, the sky quickly dispatching any small cloud that dared to appear and the views just kept coming. We traversed across to the south summit and descended the tricky gravelly path back down into the corrie. There was even time for some sublime sunbathing.

Sgurr nan Gillean

For many, this is Skye’s finest peak and it is hard to argue the point. This graceful soaring rock cone sends down 3 sharp ridges from its perfect summit high above the surrounding glens and in clear view (on a good day) of the strategically-placed Sligachan Hotel. Such an aloof position doesn’t come without a hitch – the long walk-in from the ‘Slig’ can seem interminable, particularly on the descent when the white smudge of the hotel can appear to be getting no closer tired footstep after tired footstep!

Scrambling on Sgurr nan Gillean's South-East Ridge

This is a small price to pay though for attaining such a grand peak which is guaranteed to excite in the higher reaches of whatever ridge you take. For the hillwalker, this will generally be the ‘tourist route’ that follows the excellent path south from the Slig and into Coire Riabhach. The real climbing starts out of this corrie and up onto the mountain’s south-east ridge from where you will hopefully be able to see the whole Cuillin Ridge across wide Harta Corrie. Once again, sun and sky accompanied us as we turned right and climbed up the ever-steepening and narrowing ridge towards the summit.

Am Basteir & Bruach na Frithe From Sgurr nan Gillean

The scrambling is exposed in places and it is not a place for the faint-hearted; but the rewards are great and sooner than expected, the typically small summit cairn (Cuillin summits are too tiny for big cairns!) is yours and you too can by king for the day on Sgurr nan Gillean (964m; peak of the young men). We descended the same way (as you generally do on Gillean) and celebrated with a leisurely sunbathe/foot-soak beside the cooling waters of the Allt Dearg Beag. Eventually, the distant white smudge became the Sligachan hotel became Seamus’ Bar became a sweet pint of the Cuillin brewery’s finest! A grand day!

Marsco

Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, Sgurr Alasdair & Sgurr Mhic Choinnich

Day 3 and it was time to get serious with the Edinburgh bankers and Shauna from Canada all of whom were intent on burning up the miles for Munro glory! These 4 particular Munros, the ‘southern 4’ on the Skye Ridge, can be achieved in one very long day by a strong, fit and dedicated group with good weather and long daylight. We were fortunate to have all of these – in spades!

Sgurr nan Eag Above Coir a' Ghrunnda

We strode manfully out from the Glen Brittle campsite across the grass moors and eventually into the ice-scoured rock amphitheatre of Coir a’ Ghrunnda. Some minor entertainment was provided by the ringing rocks: boulders of peridotite, an igneous rock, that ring with a hollow tinny sound when struck with another rock (not your hand)! Then it was back to work with an ascent of the scree path and a short traverse to the day’s first (and easiest) summit, Sgurr nan Eag (924m; peak of the notches)
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Sgurr Alasdair Above Coir a' Ghrunnda

Photos taken, we re-traced our steps a short way before following the ridge north past the rock tower of the Castle and scrambling up on to Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn (938m; black peak of the two mountains). Here, we diverted from the main ridge to take in our second Munro of the day. This lies tantalisingly off the main ridge, albeit via a tricky descent to the intervening bealach and an even trickier zig-zag ascent of Sgurr Dubh Mor (944m; big black peak). Photos taken, we re-traced our steps (are you getting the picture) and found ourselves once again on Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn. Here, a brief demonstration with compass and gabbro highlighted a 90° swing in the compass needle – interesting but not really a problem for navigation if you hold the compass away from the rock (like you should do)!

Smartly Up Sgurr Dubh Mor!

We continued north below the deep gash of the Thearlaich-Dubh (TD) Gap and towering gabbro cliffs of Sgurr Alasdair to the Sgumain cave before ‘shinning up’ a convenient chimney (which Richard struggled to say nice things about) and scrambling up to the very top of Skye, the sublime airy summit of Sgurr Alasdair (993m; Alexander's Peak). Heat haze precluded a distant view of far-off St Kilda but we couldn’t complain as the sun continued to reign supreme over far and wide. As we left the summit, a young Polish couple approached us, he full of excitement as he grasped the summit cairn, she full of something else as she held back 100m short of the summit and not very sure at all about continuing. Not for the first time, Mr Hillways came to the rescue and with the help of the others, coaxed, cajoled and escorted her for the final few steps she needed to make her day complete. Think we all learned a few new Polish words that day!

The View South From Sgurr Alasdair

Next up was the intricate roof-top traverse of Sgurr Thearlaich (973m; Charlie's Peak); difficult to get up, difficult to get down; but a real highlight if you have the nerve (and route-finding skills)! This puts you below King’s Chimney that leads up the vertical southern nose of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. There’s no need for mere mortals to get the rope out though as the mountain’s most essential feature, the wonderful highway in the sky that is Collie’s Ledge, provides a fabulous, if unlikely, escape route around the mountain’s western face high above Coire Lagan. The ledge leads all too quickly back on to the ridge line which is followed south to the tiny summit cairn of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich (948m; Mackenzie's Peak). In warm evening sunlight we traversed back north to the top of the An Stac screes which we shuffled down before giving up the mountains for the day and following the well-made path back to Glen Brittle.

All Smiles on Collie's Ridge!

This is probably the biggest single day you can have on the Skye ridge, apart from undertaking the complete traverse. Today, it took us 11 hrs which is typical. It’s a day that needs to be taken at a measured pace and with great care over route finding and foot placement. In many places, the implications of a slip could spoil your whole day, so go carefully, take the right equipment and if in any doubt, employ a guide.

Looking Back at Coire Lagan

MGB - Sgurr a'Mhadaidh, Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh & Sgurr na Banachdich

An easier day than the previous one (not hard to find), but still a solid 8 hrs of exposed rock scrambling and airy ups and downs. We started as is normal for these 3 peaks from the Glen Brittle youth hostel. After some very impressive and typically pretty parking from Jim we followed the good path up into Coire a’ Ghreadaidh. Grassy slopes lead to scree and a stiff climb below the distinctive gash of An Dorus (the door).

Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh From Sgurr a' Mhadaidh

We left the sacks and quickly scrambled up our first Munro, and the lowest one on the ridge, Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh (918m; peak of the fox). Back to An Dorus to retrieve the sacks and then it was sweetly up the difficult step on the other side past the Eag Dubh (black notch), around the seemingly impassable Wart and quickly on to the diminutive summit cairn of Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh (973m; peak of torment).

Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh

From here the fun really starts and one of the country’s most sensational and exposed scrambles leads to the Ghreadaidh’s southern summit before the ridge turns south-west and descends steeply to a rare thing in the Cuillin - a grassy bealach! On the way Richard renewed his acquaintance with a couple he’d met the previous day when helping the lady – with some delicacy - down a difficult step on Sgurr Dubh Mor. From here, we climbed past the Teeth and up and over Sgurr Thormaid (927m; Norman's Peak) before scrambling up the scree to our last peak of the trip, Sgurr na Banachdich (965m; peak of smallpox). A raven circled, encouraged no doubt by our somewhat bedraggled state but we left him to the discarded pistachio nut shells on the summit and descended wearily into Coir’ an Eich for one last sunny trudge back into Glen Brittle.

The Skye Ridge

Tired, exhausted and sweat-soaked we may have been; but the achievement of climbing 7 Cuillin peaks in just 2 days over rocky spires, sharp ridges and the greatest scrambles in the land could not be dented and we walked into the sunset with heads held high and hearts on fire. There was also Jim’s parking to admire.....

Happy Days!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Skye - 2010

The In Pinn Bristling With Climbers.

Another spell on Skye has just finished with some rewarding, but long and hard days on the Cuillin Ridge. The weather has been mixed, but never poor enough to curtail a day’s activity. The company has been second to none as first Mark and Peter, and then Callum, Doreen (from Peebles), Pete, Mark, Irene, Peter and Simon accompanied the good Doctor and myself up the length and breadth of the Misty Isle’s highest peaks.

Bla Bheinn on a Better day!

This mountain marathon started with a damp ascent of Bla Bheinn with Mark where all the views were virtual and the mountain quiet until four wonderful search and rescue border collies accompanied by local guide Tony Hanly arrived on the summit. Bla Bheinn offers a short day (and there aren’t many of those to be had around here) and is a good choice if the weather is not so good. But do try and climb it at least once on a good day as its isolated position away from the main ridge makes it a superlative viewpoint.

The second day gave us warm sunshine and we toiled up the Great Stone Shoot in Coire Lagan and up on to the spectacular summit cone of Skye’s highest point: Sgurr Alasdair. The visibility was not quite good enough to give us a view of St Kilda but we weren’t complaining and were just content that the rock was dry for our airy traverse of Sgurr Thearlich and Collie’s Ledge to our second Munro of the day: Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. This all went smoothly and Mark even agreed to pose at the end of a tight rope for a photo with the depths of Coire Lagan far below him (as he knew only too well)!

Mark, (Very) High Above Coire Lagan!

The third day, with Peter joining us, was a much less successful day in Coir a’Ghrunnda with low cloud, burns in spate and Mark’s troublesome knee all combining to give us a view-less and Munro-less day!

Sgurr a'Mhadaidh With Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh Behind.

Meeting up with the Doctor and our ever-growing band of budding alpinists saw an unusually long straggle of 9 ascending An Dorus (the door) for a stunning day on 2 ropes of the central peaks of Sgurr a'Mhadaidh, Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh and Sgurr na Banachdich. Pete declared he didn’t know such concentration existed as we snaked our cautious but exhilarating way along the sharpest arête in Britain around those familiar Cuillin landmarks that punctuate progress along the ridge: the black gash, the wart and the three teeth. We cuddled many a Cuillin that day!

Not Now Keith; I'm Concentrating!

From the final summit a long and tortuous descent down the scree and shale of Coire an Eich led us back to the Glen Brittle Youth Hostel and the sight of a large golden eagle (possibly a sea eagle) soaring above us in search of an evening meal. Thankfully, there was still sufficient life in our party (just) to suggest we had nothing to offer!

Poser on the Ridge - You Get a Lot of These!

Tuesday saw a return to Coire Lagan but not, thankfully, the Great Stone Shoot (an horrendous ascent route now). A reasonable climb up the edge of the An Stac screes placed us on the ridge for a there-and-back ascent of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and then, in gathering gloom and a bitter crosswind, a quick shin up the Inaccessible Pinnacle.

Cold? It's Just a State of Mind!

Everyone did really well and seemed to take this precariously perched flake of rock in their stride (and occasionally, straddle). Even the abseils went smoothly so well done everyone – firstly for climbing the Pinn and secondly for not catching hypothermia! A slow and complicated descent down Coire na Banachdich ensured another 10-hour day – you don’t get much time to write postcards or watch the footie when you’re climbing the Cuillin!

Doreen (from Peebles) Struts Her Stuff on the In Pinn!

And now for something different…. Oh no I forgot, and now for another 10-hour day in the cloud! This time it was the long, long trudge from the Glen Brittle campsite (the toilets are no longer public by the way!) and around into Coir a’Ghrunnda. The views were as non-existent as before but at least the water levels in the burns had receded and posed no problems. Shaley paths and seaside scrambling in the murk gave us Sgurr nan Eag and Sgurr Dubh Mor and a chance encounter with a lone walker who required rescuing that night by the Skye Mountain Rescue Team! Navigation in poor visibility remains the Cuillin’s greatest challenge (other than falling off them of course) and should not be underestimated. For such a sharp, well-defined ridge, finding your way about in thick cloud is surprisingly difficult. The last part of the day was spent traversing beneath the Thearlich-Dubh (T-D) Gap and up onto a very tricky and greasy Sgurr Alasdair. Skilful cricket skills enabled Peter to catch Irene at second slip at a delicate moment of the climb in a particularly greasy gulley and it was a relief all round to reach the summit! No view at all this time, let alone of St Kilda. It was not a place to linger today so it was down the Great Stone Shoot (in 30 mins; well done team!) and back down Coire Lagan in another 10-hr plus Cuillin Fest! No postcards; no footie – again!

Another Misty Summit!

We finished the week with ascents of the 3 northern peaks seen to such advantage from the Sligachan Hotel: Sgurr nan Gillean, Am Basteir and Bruach na Frithe (yes I know you can’t actually see the last one from Sligachan but you can use your imagination)! The ascent into Coire a’ Bhasteir provided a welcome change from Glen Brittle but the tops were mostly enshrouded in cloud as we hauled our weary selves below Am Basteir and it’s sinister Tooth up onto Bruach na Frithe. Regrettably, Irene’s knee was causing just too much pain to continue so I gallantly forsook an ascent of the last 2 peaks and accompanied her off the mountain whilst the remainder of the group followed the Doctor up and down Am Basteir’s east ridge and up and down Sgurr nan Gillean’s west ridge. This day proved to be the longest yet – 11 hrs!

The Doctor Leading From the Rear(s)!

Throughout the week the team’s spirits remained high despite many new experiences and unusual positions that many were probably not expecting. The humour flowed in line with the adrenalin and Doreen (from Peebles) was good enough to let me know what she thought of the life-cycle of the Common Lousewort…… Callum has very few Munros left to do, Pete has discovered new depths of concentration and I will be forever indebted to Simon for his invaluable insight into the formation of baked and chilled margins, isostatic rebound and sliken lines!

And now to Knoydart...

All Scrubbed Up at the Slig!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm