Ben Nevis & Glen Coe

Gardyloo Gulley

It’s all go!  I’m back from Cyprus, and there was just time for a quick pause for breath before leaving the next day for Lochaber and a couple of days with David & Elizabeth from Long Island, New York.  Whilst their main aim was to climb Ben Nevis, we also had a second day for something a little less strenuous.

Ben Nevis

Entering the Death Zone!

A forecast of heavy showers, cold winds and persistent snow above 800m did not auger well for an easy climb.  However, Day 1 dawned bright and clear and we set off in conditions that have been sadly lacking this spring!   And so it was we made good progress with David & Elizabeth thoroughly enjoying (each in their own way) a new experience – life on Scottish mountain. 

Made It!

We crossed the snow-line half-way up the zig-zags and the cloud followed soon after.  The summit plateau was still covered in deep snow and the observatory and much of the trig point platform were still largely buried.  In a little over 4hrs we were there and I was busy congratulating David when Elizabeth suddenly fell dead on the ground!  Or so it seemed….

Dead Tourist!

The descent was uneventful with sunshine and great views for some of the way before a passing shower reminded us we weren’t going to be THAT lucky!  A little under 7½hrs was a most respectable time for a couple who had no previous experience of the Highlands and had gamely chosen to start at the top!  Good effort guys!   

The Lost Valley, Glen Coe

The Lost Valley

Day 2 perpetuated our good luck with plenty of blue sky on display and some, if rather modest, warmth from the sun.   Elizabeth had a way of indicating that one 7hr tramp in the snow per week was enough for any New Yorker so we opted for something shorter: a visit to the Lost Valley in Glen Coe.

Glen Coe

This is probably the most entertaining short walk in the Glen.  An excellent path descends from the main road and crosses the impressive ravine of the River Coe.  The distinctive ‘chat’ of a cock stonechat and the sight of him flitting over the heather was an early highlight and a necessary reminder that it was spring! 

Winter Was Never Far Away!

After crossing the Coe, the path climbs up into a gorge high above the rushing waters and blue-green pools of the Allt Coire Gabhail.  Eventually, river and path meet and the resultant crossing can be difficult after heavy rain.  Today, David & Elizabeth managed it with some flair and dry feet (on the way up at least) and a few minutes later we stood at the threshold of one of the finest hanging valleys in the Highlands: Coire Gabhail, the Lost Valley.

World Freestyle River Crossing Champions!

Despite the blue sky and warm sunshine, snow on the corrie headwall and the encircling ridges underlined just how wintery conditions still were on the higher ground.  Very nice it all looked though and a wee chaffinch completed the scene by giving us a close & confident inspection!

Confident or What?

We returned the same way (there’s not a lot of choice).  The highlight of the descent was easily Elizabeth’s hop, skip & jump through (not over, alas) the river which saw her camera’s waterproofness being tested to a depth of several inches!

Heading Down

Scotch broth and a latte at the Green Welly on the way home rounded off a splendid couple of days in excellent company; most agreeable!  I’m looking forward to the return fixture in New York!

    

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Ben Nevis – Winter Lingers On!

New Snow on Old Snow

This idea of flying half-way across the world to climb Ben Nevis is obviously catching on. This time, it was Louisa who decided to nip back to Blighty from Saudi Arabia and sample a bit of hillwalking. She brought Laura with her (but only from Edinburgh) for moral support. Neither had much previous experience of Scottish (or Arabian) mountains so anything we accomplished was likely to be a great achievement and hopefully a memorable experience. No pressure then!

Only 9 hrs To Go!

Hopes of an uncomplicated ‘summer’ ascent were dashed 48hrs before our arrival when the icy blast of winter returned and deposited fresh snow on the upper part of the mountain. Fortunately, the sun is high enough now to carry some heat and this, coupled by us carrying crampons up and down the mountain, ensured we were not troubled by ice this time!

Clear Air Between the Showers

We set off in warm sunshine, along with quite a few other folks, and didn’t really encounter any cool breeze until approaching the half-way lochan. Assorted groups passed by including one numpty in shorts and football shirt looking every bit the pratt he was!

Onwards & Upwards!

The Red Burn was a mere trickle compared to recent visits but as we trooped up the zig-zags, the snow depth steadily increased until there was solid cover by the time we picked up the first of the large cairns that mark the route to the summit. A couple of snow buntings flittered around us for a few minutes on an opportunistic foray after picnic crumbs!

Approaching the Summit

Once on the summit plateau, the cloud came down bringing the visibility with it and suddenly, out of the blue, we were caught in a vicious hailstorm. The winter jacket came out of the sack lightning quick (there’s a pun there somewhere) but you could still feel the sting of the hailstones through the material. Not nice, but fortunately short-lived. On we went and there were the 3 cairns marking the top of Gardyloo Gulley and the left turn for the final 150 yds to the summit. At 5hrs 20mins this was no record-breaking day, but the girls were happy and we still had plenty of daylight to spare.

Made It!

The descent was largely uneventful although a 20 minute snow shower kept the hoods up for most of the zig-zags. The first wheatear of the year confirmed Spring had definitely arrived and the birch trees and larches are turning a welcome green. Then the snow stopped, the clouds cleared and evening sunshine ensured a very pleasant return to the car - albeit almost 10 hrs since we left it!

The Sun Shines on the Righteous!

Louisa is returning in August hoping to tackle the 3 Peaks. Hopefully, this dress rehearsal will have give an indication of what to expect. I noticed Laura didn’t rush to suggest she would be joining her!

Evening Sun on Stob Ban

Check out my future plans for similar walks on:http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm