Knoydart 2011

Ladhar Bheinn From Barrisdale Bay

Just back from my first visit to Knoydart this year and an interesting week it proved to be. One client, one hill and one day that didn’t happen! I don’t have many photos for you, just a couple of library shots of the mountain we did climb and some pretty pics taken on the way to the pub!

Inverie

We knew Day 2 was going to be wetter than a wet thing so we planned our mountains for Days 1 and 3. Consequently, no sooner were we off the ferry and unpacked than we were heading out for Knoydart’s finest: Ladhar Bheinn. This mighty mountain, the mainland’s western-most Munro, is most easily climbed from the Folach, a ruined house at the end of a good track 6km north of Inverie. Given the late start and a keen eye for an easy life, I was extra receptive to any means of shortening the day. Consequently, a suggestion from our accommodation manager (thanks Christine!) to make use of the neighbourly 4X4 taxi service was seized upon with gleeful anticipation! So it was we shaved a good hour of track-trudging off our afternoon and eliminated the long walk-in that Ladhar Bheinn demands from her southern approaches.

Looking NE From Ladhar Bheinn (a view we didn't see)!

Accompanied for part of the climb by soon-to-be Munroist David (7 to go as I write this!), we climbed the easy grassy slopes and not-so-easy wet path to the skyline of An Diollaid before turning right for the summit ridge. We entered cloud half way to the top and a cool breeze took the edge off most things. It then started to rain on top albeit for no more than 10 mins. Regrettably I only enjoyed the benefit of my waterproofs for 2 of those mins having waited too long for ‘the passing shower’ to pass!

Looking East From Ladhar Bheinn (another view we didn't see)!

Ironically, we had cloud, wind and rain for the otherwise entertaining summit ridge of Ladhar Bheinn (1020m; pr = larven = hoof hill). No views unfortunately, so it was back the same way to the Folach and then the 90 min stroll back to Inverie, Elaine’s first Munro safely in the bag.

On The way To The Pub!

As expected, Day 2 was cloudy and wet and we lay low in preparation for an assault on Meall Buidhe on the following morn. That morn broke bright and sunny and we set off up the Barrisdale track waiting for our hill to come into sight. A short while later 2 landrovers passed: a stalking party complete with cigar-smoking client away to slither in the wet grass in some remote corrie in pursuit of stalking glory. After a while we came to one of the landrovers parked untended on the track. We moved past and continued on our way; I could see no activity up on the hillside opposite the mountain we were aiming for. Then Elaine stopped and confessed she was uncomfortable with being in such close proximity to the ‘hunters on the hill’ and had no desire to go on. I knew it would be wrong to try and persuade her otherwise given the genuineness and seriousness of her concern so our short mountain day was over and we returned (safely) to Inverie.

On The Way Back From The Pub!

The next day we returned to Mallaig on the morning ferry all set for a night-stop in Fort William and a walk up Ben Nevis on which to end the week. However, on disembarking at the pier at Mallaig, Elaine declared a change of heart and announced she had decided to return to Knoydart for a few days, such had been the effect of the peninsula on her. Consequently, we parted company a day and a mountain early and went our own ways. Knoydart can have that effect on you; it is quite special. I’ve never lost a client there before though!

West Coast Sunset!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Knoydart

The Approach From Mallaig

One day, The Professor, the Teacher and Superman gathered at Mallaig harbour to go Munro-bagging in Knoydart! I was leading 3 of Darren’s clients from http://www.hebrideanpathways.co.uk/ on a 4-day walkathon over the 3 Munros on this near-deserted peninsula of quintessential Scottish Highlands. The weather was on the good side of great and ensured clear views from all 3 summits and suntans all-round! We were staying in Torrie Shieling bunkhouse near Inverie, the only settlement on a peninsula that used to be home to several hundreds of people before sheep, deer and autocratic landlords conspired to drive them from their homes and away to the coast and then across the ocean! Logistics is the key to a successful Knoydart trip so the leader forgetting his towel and, more importantly, the spaghetti, made for an inauspicous start. Thanfully, clients Peter, Ray and Chris - and, unusually, Darren - were very kind and didn’t really go on about it very much........! Anyway, my delicious Bolognese sauce doesn’t require any pasta accompaniment, so there!

Meall Buidhe - and that Memorial!

A morning ferry from Mallaig on Day 1 ensured time was available to walk up the Barrisdale track, past the Brockett Memorial (a previous landowner’s disproportionate memorial to his family) and up Glean Meadail to climb Meall Buidhe (946m). From here there are good views to the east over the Rough Bounds of Knoydart and north across Choire Odhair to a tantalisingly close (but not THAT close) Luinne Bheinn, a second Munro that can be combined with Meall Buidhe to make a satisfying 2-Munro day. Today, however, a strong wind and travel fatigue combined to encourage us to descend Meall Buidhe’s long western ridge that leads in the general direction of our bunkhouse – a significant factor in today’s decision-making process! So it was back down into Gleann Meadail and along the Barrisdale track and past the Brockett Memorial, for some delicious Bolognese sauce! Pasta is so over-rated don’t you think?

Ladhar Bheinn

Day 2 was reserved for mighty Ladhar Bheinn (1020m) – pronounced Larven - a big mountain with more than its fair share of stunning rock architecture, impressive ridges and cavernous corries. There are no short cuts from Inverie so you have to work for your summit! Choose the right day though and you will be rewarded with spectacular views from the most westerly Munro on the Scottish mainland. In particular, the views north across Loch Hourn to Arnisdale and Beinn Sgritheall and down to Barrisdale in the noth-east emphasise Ladhar Bheinn’s splendid isolation. After my ceaseless attempts to get everyone interested in mountain flowers, I was greatly heartened when I thought I detected a nanosecond of excitement when Superman discovered an orchid! It didn’t last! Our approach gave us a bird’s eye view of the mountain’s pre-eminent feature: Coire Dhorrcail, a huge steep-sided corrie shaped by earth movements and ice into a stunning, silent ampitheatre. For a mountain with such stunning approach climbs, Ladhar Bheinn has a curious summit – a tent-shaped ridge complete with 3 summit markers (a bit like Beinn a’Ghlo – see April): 2 cairns and a half-destroyed OS trig point! The high point is the central pimple. All of this comes as some surprise after the ups and downs of the outlying ridges, but its very pleasant to wander along this level 500m of ridge and your departure should not be rushed (saving for, perhaps, the onset of hypothermia)!

Summit Ridge of Ladhar Bheinn

We descended the west ridge towards An Diollaid and peeled off down to Folach where a spot of rain tried to dampen our spirits. But it needn’t have bothered – the 7 kms walk out along a forest track was sufficient! The Teacher helped us pass the time with a sort of mobile pub quiz with subjects ranging from US presidents to Top of the Pops! The Professor was very kind and let me win! As it turned out, rain gave way to a beautiful sunny evening and venison casserole at the Old Forge with a glass of Merlot seemed an appropriate signing-off for a big mountain day - 9½ hrs!

Luinne Bheinn

The final hill day saw us stride manfully once more up the Barrisdale track, past the Brockett Memorial and all the way up to Mam Barrisdale before actually getting on to our mountain and achieving our third and final Knoydart Munro: Luinne Bheinn (939m). Again, warm sunshine adorned the summit and spectacular views in every direction capped a rewarding climb. We resisted the dubious temptation to re-take Meall Buidhe on the way home and instead, retraced our steps (exactly), our tired legs slowly consuming the long miles back down the Barrisdale track, past the Brockett Memorial.............

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm