The Five Summits

What a Team!

The good people of Gunnersbury Catholic School in west London came up with this great idea of running around the UK this summer and climbing the highest peaks in England, Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland and the Irish Republic. The only thing was, they elected to do them all in 5 days! It really did seem like a good idea at the time but as the day approached a wee bit of apprehension crept in over the enormity of the logistical and physical effort that would be required. In the event, it actually proved to be a brilliant idea, particularly as the boys raised a considerable amount of money for Macmillan’s Nurses! So my good self and 10 fine youngsters of the said school together with 3 staff to provide iron discipline (and that was just for me) met up at Birmingham Airport and well, what followed was something like this......

Snowdon (1085m)

Snowdon From the PYG Track

From the airport an empty M6 toll (only the Brits could ignore an empty motorway because of the extra toll) took us quickly towards north Wales. We even managed to find a parking place at Pen y Pass, an early indication of the good luck that was to follow us throughout the trip! A sunny afternoon saw us ready for the start up the much-improved PYG track from which even the most navigationally challenged walker would have difficulty straying!

Going Strongly for the Top!

The new cafe on the summit does what it has to do and is a big improvement on the dilapidated predecessor that (dis)graced the spot on countless previous visits. Snowdon will always be a busy mountain but it is still the greatest peak in Wales with grand ridges and impressive corries radiating out from it’s summit cone. Today, fellow walkers, helicopters and trains all combined to give the boys a taste of the Snowdon symphony.

Lliwedd and Llyn Glaslyn

Just over 2 hrs to the summit and a little quicker on the return down– and I remember when Snowdon used to take all day to conquer! Warm sunshine and great views accompanied us throughout and spirits were high. Oliver cut his finger on a rock near the summit; our first casualty. André asked a few questions, quite a few actually, and Liam started losing things, a habit he carefully crafted throughout the week! Fortunately, this didn't include his dad's expensive North Face jacket! It was a good start and the Swallow Falls youth hostel proved to be an ideal first night stop – even if William didn’t share his giant pizza with the staff!

Scafell Pike (978m)

Scafell Pike and Scafell Across Wastwater

Wasdale Head was a bit of a struggle to reach – they’d shut an access road and we ended up fighting our way up ever-narrowing country lanes to get to our start point. When we got there, a picnic of packed lunches in 23° afternoon sunshine melted the road miles away. Then it was up the good path alongside Lingmell Beck up Brown Tongue and Hollow Stones to the Lingmell Col and on to the boulder-strewn summit of England’s highest (but far from most distinguished) peak.

England's Highest Point

Again, quite a few folk were about undertaking evening ascents and a few straggly sheep grazed the grassy slopes – far fewer than there used to be. The usual sunshine and expansive views flavoured the summit experience. Oliver tripped on the way down and added yet more battle scars to his ever-receptive body. We returned down the same way in the evening sun to the former country mansion that now does for the Wasdale Hall youth hostel.

Evening Light on Wastwater

Another 4-hr saunter for the boys who were carrying all before them. Two down and only 3 to go now – and just a 6-hr minibus ride to the next challenge, the mighty Ben. And the weather forecast was on the dire side of absolutely atrocious....

Ben Nevis (1344m)

Ben Nevis

The boys were mightily impressed with the Green Welly Stop at Tyndrum. A feast of carbohydrates provided the ideal energy source for the impending haul up Ben Nevis. Very fortunately for us, the expected buckets of rain, 70mph winds and odd locust had all lost interest by the time we left the Glen Nevis youth hostel and walked up the tourist track rapidly shredding all our waterproofs and fleeces! Tom stuck doggedly to his Arsenal hat but there was nothing else to spoil the view! Having prepared the boys for the worse they must have been wondering what all the fuss was about. The promise of some snow on the summit helped restore some of my street cred!

High Above Glen Nevis

Having generally climbed the Ben in full winter conditions in recent years, this summer evening stroll up the much-repaired tourist path (with yet more welcome repair work underway above the Red Burn) proved to be a bit of a doddle with the boys striding manfully for the summit as the clouds lifted and even the bloody sun came out. Again! Even André stopped asking ‘is that the top?’ The summit was reached in only 2¾ hrs, a most creditable achievement by the guys who were climbing only their 3rd British mountain and in only 3 days!

High Point of the Trip!

Having set off late in the day we were expecting to have Ben Nevis to ourselves. In the event we were accompanied by 120 runners, walkers and staggerers from the Joint Service 3 Peaks Challenge. It made for a busy mountain. After a short stop on the summit we descended past a lingering snow patch where the boys were able to vent their inexhaustible energy with a snowball fight in July!

Gunnersbury Snowball Fight - in July!

Then it was down once again in evening sunshine to the youth hostel with dry clothes. Again! All was well with the party; even Oliver made it through unscathed! Surely our luck couldn’t last and the weather gods would get their revenge once we crossed the sea to Ireland...

Slieve Donard (850m)

'Where the Mountains of Mourne Sweep Down to the Sea'

An interminable drive across south-west Scotland to Stranraer was never going to be the highlight of the trip! What a rubbish location for a ferry terminal for sailings to Northern Ireland – you take ages to get there and then spend the first 45 mins of the crossing heading north out of Loch Ryan! Things improved though after a nice supper on the boat and gannets were diving into the harbour as we sailed into Belfast. A short drive in the gathering dusk brought us to Newcastle ‘where the mountains of Mourne sweep down to the sea’.

Glen River Path

Slieve Donard, named after an Irish saint, dominates the seaside town and is just begging to be climbed. The Slieve Donard Hotel was conveniently situated across the road from our humble youth hostel and some of the elder members of the party were able to partake in a rare opportunistic dram or two. The hotel guests paid us no mind resplendent in our hill gear and boots! Our money was as good as theirs and anyway, some of the wedding guests looked in far worse shape than we did! The next morning the boys led us out of town through Donard Park and up the Glen River path to the Mourne Wall.

So Where's This Wall Everyone Keeps Talking About?

This impressive structure was built to enclose a reservoir catchment area in the early 20th Century and is 22 miles long! It provided much-needed employment to many who needed it at the time. The boys followed the wall straight up to the huge summit marker (2½ hrs from the hostel) from where views north to the Belfast hills and south to rapidly approaching shower clouds gave food for thought!

Looking Back to Newcastle

Sure enough it was time for the gore-tex and we got a right soaking on the first part of the descent before normal service was resumed and sunshine returned as we descended back down into Newcastle.

Slieve Donard Summit Cairn

Some local runners were out and about in training for the Seven Mournes race. They were hardy souls in shorts and running tops and weren't about to let a sudden burst of Irish rain spoil their day. On the way back through what was now a pretty crowded seaside town one of the party slipped back from the main group and partook of the output of a local fish and chip shop - for research purposes only you understand. After a quick change we readied ourselves for the 7-hr drive across the Emerald Isle to our last summit.

Carrauntoohil (1038m)

Carrauntoohil and Beenkeragh

The Black Valley hostel nestling in the delightfully named Macgillycuddy’s Reeks (reeks = black stacks) proved to be an admirable home for our last night although we had to wait for the morning to see what it looked like – and where exactly we were – in daylight! The excitement began with a fallen tree across the access road which caused a few thinks bubbles amongst the team before the resourceful Mr Cronin turned up with his chainsaw. Nothing was going to stop the boys at this late stage! The weather at last took the upper hand and we were clad head-to-toe in gore-tex for our walk from Cronin’s Yard up the wide track which we were sharing with a fast flowing stream coming in the opposite direction! We would have had problems getting through but some new bridges and strategically placed stepping stones saved the day.

Don't Try This at Home!

Ronan’s glasses needed wipers for the wipers as the rain showed no sign of relenting as we fought our way up Hag’s Glen. The skyline is generally accessed by climbing the Devil’s Ladder which we approached with some intrepidation. This loose boulder-filled gulley is severely eroded and requires great care. The path, what there is of it, winds its delicate way up as the water flows freely down and a considerable amount of work is required here to stabilise the scree. An alternative path climbs up safer slopes a little to the east and should be taken by everyone - but it is not well marked just where it needs to be and could not be easily identified in the conditions. We proceeded up the ladder with extreme caution.

The Devil's Ladder

It was a relief to reach the skyline even if we were exposed to a cool gusty wind for the final climb to the summit of Carrauntoohil (Tuathal's sickle). William was asked to lead the way and look after his party – and promptly got ‘leader’s legs’ and marched off into the mist never to be seen again! It's OK mum, we soon caught up with him and there, looming out of the murk, was the 16ft high iron cross that adorns this highest point of the Irish Republic.

The Final Summit

There was quite a crowd on the summit but no-one there could match the achievement of the Gunnersbury boys. Quite rightly, the clouds parted and we were rewarded with wide views over County Kerry and the none-too-distant sea. With ferries to catch and flights to take we turned for home. Deciding against pushing our luck on a risky descent down the Devil’s Ladder, we traversed the ridge and descended down the safer path to the east which was now clearly visible. Typically, the eagle-eyed youngsters realised this necessitated a short climb and I’m sure I detected some quiet muttering in the ranks!

Getting Blown Away!

However, in true Gunnersbury fashion the cloud lifted and the sun came out for our return to the minibus. As we approached the car park you just knew that if you threw a football in to the adjacent farmer’s field the boys wouldn’t hesitate to run off and play a quick 5-a-side such was their unbounded energy. We adults would have loved to have joined them but looking after 10 miniature whirlwinds for 5 days ensuring they coped with all of the costume changes and didn’t hurl themselves down steep grassy slopes had taken its toll! I was deposited at Cork airport exhausted but sorry to see them go. We’d had a ball. The flight back from Cork proved memorable for one reason only – I got to close my eyes in Ireland and open them again in Scotland.

Me and Da Boys!

A big thank you to Paul Muncer, Tim Hayes and Steve Shillcock for their great company and support throughout the week and to my new buddies André, Adrian, Charlie, Joe, Joshua, Liam, Oliver, Ronan, Tom and William. Their resilience and endeavour knew no bounds throughout this amazing tour de force through the British Isles where they climbed unaided to 5 mighty summits in 5 short days. Well done guys – it was a pleasure to be on the hills with you.

Joshua's Logo for the Team Shirts

Knoydart - 2010

Loch Nevis

Great weather graced our first visit of the year to the remote peninsula of Knoydart on the west coast of Scotland across from Skye. The late cancellation of Jon’s London flight threatened a hasty re-plan but as the weekend weather forecast enabled Friday to be a spare day, he was able to catch the afternoon ferry and missed nothing. Meanwhile, Gayle and I made ourselves comfortable in the best bunkhouse on Knoydart: the Old Byre. We planned to take in both Luinne Bheinn and Meall Buidhe in one long day on Saturday followed by a slightly shorter day on mighty Ladhar Bheinn on Sunday. The Monday morning ferry would take us back to the mainland – or so it always seems that way on Knoydart where you have to keep reminding yourself you are already on the mainland!

Luinne Bheinn and Loch an Dubh-Lochain

Saturday started with the customary and unavoidable hike up to Mam Barrisdale (450m), a 3-hr walk on a reasonably good track for most of the way past an old fish hatchery and Loch an Dubh Lochain (black loch). A highlight today was the sight and sound of snipe darting above us with their distinctive ‘drumming’ created by their tail feathers. Sandpipers were playing along the loch shore but deer were nowhere to be seen. The track becomes a path that climbs up to the pass that heralds the start of the actual ascent of Luinne Bheinn (939m; swelling hill). The route is fairly easy, even in mist, as a line of rusting fence posts carry you around the southern flank of the hill before you strike for the summit up steep grassy slopes. The view to the north is stunning across Loch Hourn to Arnisdale and dear old Beinn Sgritheall, a favourite and memorable wee Munro.

Sgurr na Ciche From Meall Buidhe

Below you to the south the great ice-scoured corrie of Choire Odhair (dun-coloured corrie) fills the foreground and it is around the headwall of this mighty bowl that a good path leads you around to Meall Buidhe (946m; yellow hill). In clear conditions this hill always give great views to the west out over the sea and the islands of the Inner Hebrides. As it’s generally late in the day when I’m up here, these views are always enhanced by the sun sinking in the western sky and its shimmering reflection on the water. From the summit a long grassy ridge stretches south-westwards directly towards Inverie. You can descend from this ridge at the 500m level and drop down to a footbridge in Gleann Meadail. By late June however, the ferns are rampant on the lower slopes so we elected to stay with the ridge (Druim Righeanaich) all the way until it deposited us on the flat bogland opposite the Kilchoan estate bothy. A short walk across the dry bog and a convenient (but essential) bridge carried us back to our outward track and back to Inverie. It was a long day (25km; 9½ hrs), and tiring, but it breaks the back of the Knoydart Munros and leaves you with a more straightforward day to finish with for Ladhar Bheinn.

Ladhar Bheinn From the Folach Track

The horror that is wading through waist-deep ferns influenced our route selection on Sunday too! We decided to tackle Ladhar Bheinn directly from the south via the old shepherd’s cottage at Folach. Once you can fight your way out of Inverie (the track is not clearly marked and the pier has moved) you just follow the vehicle track north out of the trees and across the open pass of Mam Uidhe before dropping down to the bridge at Folach. Ladhar Bheinn is in view from the pass onwards and it’s not too long before you are climbing up easy grassy (and fern-free) slopes of An Diollaid on a sketchy path to the skyline.

Coire Dhorrcail

Again, great views open up to the north and the steep craggy cliffs of the mountain’s northern aspect contrast strongly with the more gentle grass on the southern slopes. The almost level summit ridge of this great mountain is punctuated by 3 cairns and a trig point; the actual summit is the cairn between the trig point and the eastern-most cairn – Ladhar Bheinn (1020m; hoof hill) From here spectacular views can be had in all directions. Mighty Coire Dhorrcail falls away beneath you, the mountain’s defining feature, whilst Barrisdale Bay, Loch Hourn and the other Knoydart peaks fill the eastern panorama.

Beinn Sgritheall and Arnisdale Across Loch Hourn

We returned the same way, heavy showers ensuring we didn’t get away scot-free. It didn’t matter however, we’d stood on 3 cloud-free summits and seen a lot of what Knoydart has to offer – wild country, great peaks and the unshakeable sense of being on an island. Don’t ever change!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Requiem For A Best Friend

On Iona in 2005

A chance meeting with a young family playing with a small bundle of fluff at the Cairngorm ski car park in August 1995 prompted a visit to the Glenmore village shop where a note was advertising golden retriever puppies. This in turn led to the introduction into our own lives of the most beautiful, loving and faithful companion anyone could wish for: Bonnie Girl. Bonnie was born on the 21st June 1995 to pedigree-stock golden retriever parentage in an outhouse at the Badaguish Outdoor Centre deep in the heart of the Glenmore Forest Park. She knew many homes and many guardians all of whom returned in equal share, her ever-constant love and affection. It was hard not to; she was just the perfect dog.

The Age of Innocence (for both of them)!

Bonnie accompanied me on 35 Munro ascents, from countless summer days on the Cairngorm plateau to a deep snowy winter’s day on the Five Sisters of Kintail when her shiny coat was matted in icy globules of snow. She visited Mull and Iona and even took a boat trip to Staffa! She accompanied me on so many walks over Scottish mountains, Worcestershire hills and the grassy fields of Wiltshire. She also knew well the cliffs and beaches of the Gower peninsula in south Wales and Sugar Loaf mountain above Abergavenny. Lochcarron was another favourite place for her and she even camped out with me one night high above the glen, straining at the leash to run after the deer. She never stopped running. Until today.

Must be Some Food About!

I will miss her terribly, as we all will; those of us who knew her sparkling eyes, shiny coat, amazing character and irrepressible canine guile and cunning. One day this summer, I will drive north to the Glenmore Forest Park and to Rothiemurchus where the two of us spent so many happy days together, each in our own true spiritual home. I will gaze up at the northern corries of that familiar skyline, flame-red in the evening sunshine, and stand amongst the aromatic native Scots Pines and juniper bushes and run my hands through the purple heather where Bonnie used to play.

Bonnie Girl: 1995 - 2010

Skye - 2010

The In Pinn Bristling With Climbers.

Another spell on Skye has just finished with some rewarding, but long and hard days on the Cuillin Ridge. The weather has been mixed, but never poor enough to curtail a day’s activity. The company has been second to none as first Mark and Peter, and then Callum, Doreen (from Peebles), Pete, Mark, Irene, Peter and Simon accompanied the good Doctor and myself up the length and breadth of the Misty Isle’s highest peaks.

Bla Bheinn on a Better day!

This mountain marathon started with a damp ascent of Bla Bheinn with Mark where all the views were virtual and the mountain quiet until four wonderful search and rescue border collies accompanied by local guide Tony Hanly arrived on the summit. Bla Bheinn offers a short day (and there aren’t many of those to be had around here) and is a good choice if the weather is not so good. But do try and climb it at least once on a good day as its isolated position away from the main ridge makes it a superlative viewpoint.

The second day gave us warm sunshine and we toiled up the Great Stone Shoot in Coire Lagan and up on to the spectacular summit cone of Skye’s highest point: Sgurr Alasdair. The visibility was not quite good enough to give us a view of St Kilda but we weren’t complaining and were just content that the rock was dry for our airy traverse of Sgurr Thearlich and Collie’s Ledge to our second Munro of the day: Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. This all went smoothly and Mark even agreed to pose at the end of a tight rope for a photo with the depths of Coire Lagan far below him (as he knew only too well)!

Mark, (Very) High Above Coire Lagan!

The third day, with Peter joining us, was a much less successful day in Coir a’Ghrunnda with low cloud, burns in spate and Mark’s troublesome knee all combining to give us a view-less and Munro-less day!

Sgurr a'Mhadaidh With Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh Behind.

Meeting up with the Doctor and our ever-growing band of budding alpinists saw an unusually long straggle of 9 ascending An Dorus (the door) for a stunning day on 2 ropes of the central peaks of Sgurr a'Mhadaidh, Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh and Sgurr na Banachdich. Pete declared he didn’t know such concentration existed as we snaked our cautious but exhilarating way along the sharpest arête in Britain around those familiar Cuillin landmarks that punctuate progress along the ridge: the black gash, the wart and the three teeth. We cuddled many a Cuillin that day!

Not Now Keith; I'm Concentrating!

From the final summit a long and tortuous descent down the scree and shale of Coire an Eich led us back to the Glen Brittle Youth Hostel and the sight of a large golden eagle (possibly a sea eagle) soaring above us in search of an evening meal. Thankfully, there was still sufficient life in our party (just) to suggest we had nothing to offer!

Poser on the Ridge - You Get a Lot of These!

Tuesday saw a return to Coire Lagan but not, thankfully, the Great Stone Shoot (an horrendous ascent route now). A reasonable climb up the edge of the An Stac screes placed us on the ridge for a there-and-back ascent of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and then, in gathering gloom and a bitter crosswind, a quick shin up the Inaccessible Pinnacle.

Cold? It's Just a State of Mind!

Everyone did really well and seemed to take this precariously perched flake of rock in their stride (and occasionally, straddle). Even the abseils went smoothly so well done everyone – firstly for climbing the Pinn and secondly for not catching hypothermia! A slow and complicated descent down Coire na Banachdich ensured another 10-hour day – you don’t get much time to write postcards or watch the footie when you’re climbing the Cuillin!

Doreen (from Peebles) Struts Her Stuff on the In Pinn!

And now for something different…. Oh no I forgot, and now for another 10-hour day in the cloud! This time it was the long, long trudge from the Glen Brittle campsite (the toilets are no longer public by the way!) and around into Coir a’Ghrunnda. The views were as non-existent as before but at least the water levels in the burns had receded and posed no problems. Shaley paths and seaside scrambling in the murk gave us Sgurr nan Eag and Sgurr Dubh Mor and a chance encounter with a lone walker who required rescuing that night by the Skye Mountain Rescue Team! Navigation in poor visibility remains the Cuillin’s greatest challenge (other than falling off them of course) and should not be underestimated. For such a sharp, well-defined ridge, finding your way about in thick cloud is surprisingly difficult. The last part of the day was spent traversing beneath the Thearlich-Dubh (T-D) Gap and up onto a very tricky and greasy Sgurr Alasdair. Skilful cricket skills enabled Peter to catch Irene at second slip at a delicate moment of the climb in a particularly greasy gulley and it was a relief all round to reach the summit! No view at all this time, let alone of St Kilda. It was not a place to linger today so it was down the Great Stone Shoot (in 30 mins; well done team!) and back down Coire Lagan in another 10-hr plus Cuillin Fest! No postcards; no footie – again!

Another Misty Summit!

We finished the week with ascents of the 3 northern peaks seen to such advantage from the Sligachan Hotel: Sgurr nan Gillean, Am Basteir and Bruach na Frithe (yes I know you can’t actually see the last one from Sligachan but you can use your imagination)! The ascent into Coire a’ Bhasteir provided a welcome change from Glen Brittle but the tops were mostly enshrouded in cloud as we hauled our weary selves below Am Basteir and it’s sinister Tooth up onto Bruach na Frithe. Regrettably, Irene’s knee was causing just too much pain to continue so I gallantly forsook an ascent of the last 2 peaks and accompanied her off the mountain whilst the remainder of the group followed the Doctor up and down Am Basteir’s east ridge and up and down Sgurr nan Gillean’s west ridge. This day proved to be the longest yet – 11 hrs!

The Doctor Leading From the Rear(s)!

Throughout the week the team’s spirits remained high despite many new experiences and unusual positions that many were probably not expecting. The humour flowed in line with the adrenalin and Doreen (from Peebles) was good enough to let me know what she thought of the life-cycle of the Common Lousewort…… Callum has very few Munros left to do, Pete has discovered new depths of concentration and I will be forever indebted to Simon for his invaluable insight into the formation of baked and chilled margins, isostatic rebound and sliken lines!

And now to Knoydart...

All Scrubbed Up at the Slig!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

To Skye With The Mighty Quinn(s)!

Loch Coruisk

This has not been a classic May so far, weather-wise, on the Misty Isle. But it was OK for my return last week when the highlight of the week was meeting up with the Quinn brothers, Michael and Chris who were closing in on their last 4 Cuillin Munros. Having warmed up on the Five Sisters of Kintail, they met up with me at Glen Brittle Youth Hostel where we decided which of the 4 remaining peaks the conditions would lend themselves to. In the event, we elected for the relatively safe route up into Coire a' Ghreadaidh to climb the 2 central peaks of Sgurr a' Mhadaidh and Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh.

Coire a' Ghreadaidh

The path leads up alongside the delightful waterfalls and rock pools that the Allt a' Choire Ghreadaidh has created to add interest to its relentless journey down the mountainside to the sea. Louseworts and milkworts provided some rare colour by the path but there was no sign of the golden eagle sighting I had rashly promised Michael. A passing shower dampened only the gore-tex as our spirits remained high given the rapid progress this route makes up on to the higher ground. You might expect any mountain day with the Irish to be entertaining and the boys didn’t let me down. I now know an awful lot more about the differences between Scottish and Irish Gaelic, how to service a Boeing 737, and the development of Soviet-Irish diplomatic relations, than I did last week! Cloud shrouded the ridgeline and did so for much of the day but we could clearly see our route up on to the scree and into our gateway to the skyline: An Dorus (the door), a sharp defile that provides a rare access route on to the main Cuillin ridge.

An Dorus

Whilst An Dorus itself is easily attained, it takes a tricky rock step to climb out of it on either side and a steady head – and hold or two – is required to make onward progress. One of these can be avoided on the left by leaving the gulley about 20m below the ridge and working your way up shaley ledges before scrambling up on to the rather anti-climactic summit of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh (918m; peak of the foxes). Just north of this summit the Cuillin ridge makes a 90 degree turn eastwards before continuing on to the northern peaks that culminate in the shapely spire of Sgurr nan Gillean. The only view we got today was of the day’s other objective: one of the Cuillin’s finest peaks: Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh. We returned to An Dorus the same way thus avoiding one difficult step; but there was no escaping the second one which gets you on your way southwards.

Sgurr a' Mhadaidh

Soon after leaving An Dorus you come across the rock crevice of Eag Dubh (black notch) which has been sliced out of the ridge and is narrow enough to give an Asda shopper a tight squeeze. It can however be avoided to the left and the ridge is again followed up past the Wart, an impressive prow of gabbro which appears to block the way from a distance but is in fact easily passed to the right.

Eag Dubh

A little after this the ridge narrows and a diminutive summit cairn marks the northern and highest summit of Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh (973m; peak of torment). The summit ridge of this fine mountain forms a twin-peaked sharp ridge which is the narrowest rock arête in Britain. Nowhere is it technically difficult but a steady head and sure foot is required throughout and the traverse of the mountain is totally absorbing. Do it on a fine day when this aerial walkway will give you one of your most memorable UK mountain experiences – but do it!

Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh From Sgurr a' Mhadaidh

If you decide to continue south from here, as I did earlier in the week, there are no escape routes off the ridge for some way so be warned. The ridge continues south-west from Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh past the rock pinnacles of the Three Teeth and over the cone of Sgurr Thormaid to the next Munro: Sgurr na Banachdich. Further on again and you come to Sgurr Dearg and its iconic summit prominence, the Inaccessible Pinnacle (which loomed out of the mist and was deserted today). You can then escape westwards down a good path back to Glen Brittle.

A Misty and Deserted Inaccessible Pinnacle

Today, however, the 3 of us returned to An Dorus and successfully negotiated the difficult step and made good our descent back the way we had come. One brief shower on the way down but still no golden eagles! The next day Michael and Chris endured a magnificent 10-hour day and secured their last 2 Cuillin Munros. Job done – as they say in Ireland! I bet some Guinness was downed that night....

The Ochil Hills

The Southern Wall of the Ochil Hills

Cool but clear weather this bank holiday weekend induced me to drive north to Dollar and explore the much-vaunted Ochil Hills, many locals’ favourite uplands. Ochil comes from the ancient Brittonic/Celtic word uchel = high. Their most impressive feature (by some margin) is the wall of steep grassy slopes arranged in a uniform line above the hillfoot towns of Menstrie, Alva, Tillicoultry and Dollar. The hills themselves extend for some 30km between Bridge of Allan and Auchterarder forming a dissected plateau of eroded lava flows that averages about 600m in height. The Ochils offer a number of circular options from the hillfoot towns with paths leading into steep-sided glens and up the numerous spurs that the higher ground throws down on to the flatlands of the mid-Forth valley. Today I planned one of the longer options: a 5-hour circuit from Dollar that would take in the Ochil’s highest point, Ben Cleugh.

Bank Hill and King's Seat Hill

Dollar has a nice rural feel about it and the town planners have done well to maximise the town’s position immediately below Dollar Glen. A hill road winds up alongside the Dollar Burn past the golf club to the first of 2 strategically placed car parks; these give a useful head start in elevation. I followed the lane up past Castle Campbell which is currently undergoing restoration work and is consequently shrouded in scaffolding and cladding. Then it was up the eastern tributary of the Dollar Burn, the beautifully named Water of Care (the other tributary bears the equally evocative title, the Water of Sorrow). The path is a right-of-way much-used in olden days for travel between Dunfermline and Blackford by, amongst others, chanters: travelling salesmen who were keen to avoid road tolls using the more conventional routes.

Ben Cleugh From King's Seat Hill

Just below the watershed before the Maiden’s Well, strike up the grassy hillside to your left and make a rising traverse for Whitewisp Hill (643m) which marks the eastern end of the higher Ochils. Great name for a hill! From here it’s a steady plod over a broad grassy ridge never undulating more than 100m and following an old fence past Tarmangie Hill (645m), Skythorn Hill, Andrew Gannel Hill (670m) and finally the highest point in the Ochils, Ben Cleuch (721m; hill of the ravine).

Summit View South From Ben Cleugh

An Ordnance Survey trig point and view indicator adorn the summit which gives wide views in all directions: west to Dumyat, the Campsie Fells and Ben Lomond; north to the ubiquitous twins of Ben Vorlich and Stuc a’Chroin, and the Ben Lawers group; east as far as the Lomond Hills, Bass Rock and North Berwick Law; and south to the Pentlands and Tinto Hill. Of closer interest though (and the hill’s best feature by some way) is the view down into Mill Glen which feeds into Tillicoultry. This aspect probably gives the hill its name.

Distant Stuc a'Chroin and Ben Vorlich From Ben Cleugh

After a fairly cool and breezy pause to take in the view, it was time to turn for home back over Andrew Gannel Hill and on to King’s Seat Hill (648m) where a large boulder cairn and windbreak mark the last summit of the day. The name may come from this being the reputed sight from where King Malcolm Canmore would observe his hunt. Maybe... From here Dollar fills the view once again as a good path descends steadily past some ice-scoured landslip troughs – the Banks of Dollar – and Bank Hill (346m). This brings you neatly down into Dollar Glen, a spectacular tree-lined gorge full of interest and spectacle. After hours of gentle plodding over drab grassland the world becomes a striking mix of cascading torrents, rich, vivid green vegetation, plummeting ravines and narrow cliff trails perched in places on timber walkways. Where the Burns of Sorrow and Care meet, Castle Campbell sits isolated on its Hill of Gloom, it’s impressive aura spoilt only by the temporary shroud of protective restoration cladding.

Castle Campbell

I returned to the car down the wee lane accompanied by the therapeutic sounds of the tinkling birdsong and cascading rhythm of the Dollar Burn, and the sweet, sweet aroma of Spring. It must be time to return once more to the Highlands, Skye is calling....

The Lomond Hills From Above Dollar Glen

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm