Knoydart

The Approach From Mallaig

One day, The Professor, the Teacher and Superman gathered at Mallaig harbour to go Munro-bagging in Knoydart! I was leading 3 of Darren’s clients from http://www.hebrideanpathways.co.uk/ on a 4-day walkathon over the 3 Munros on this near-deserted peninsula of quintessential Scottish Highlands. The weather was on the good side of great and ensured clear views from all 3 summits and suntans all-round! We were staying in Torrie Shieling bunkhouse near Inverie, the only settlement on a peninsula that used to be home to several hundreds of people before sheep, deer and autocratic landlords conspired to drive them from their homes and away to the coast and then across the ocean! Logistics is the key to a successful Knoydart trip so the leader forgetting his towel and, more importantly, the spaghetti, made for an inauspicous start. Thanfully, clients Peter, Ray and Chris - and, unusually, Darren - were very kind and didn’t really go on about it very much........! Anyway, my delicious Bolognese sauce doesn’t require any pasta accompaniment, so there!

Meall Buidhe - and that Memorial!

A morning ferry from Mallaig on Day 1 ensured time was available to walk up the Barrisdale track, past the Brockett Memorial (a previous landowner’s disproportionate memorial to his family) and up Glean Meadail to climb Meall Buidhe (946m). From here there are good views to the east over the Rough Bounds of Knoydart and north across Choire Odhair to a tantalisingly close (but not THAT close) Luinne Bheinn, a second Munro that can be combined with Meall Buidhe to make a satisfying 2-Munro day. Today, however, a strong wind and travel fatigue combined to encourage us to descend Meall Buidhe’s long western ridge that leads in the general direction of our bunkhouse – a significant factor in today’s decision-making process! So it was back down into Gleann Meadail and along the Barrisdale track and past the Brockett Memorial, for some delicious Bolognese sauce! Pasta is so over-rated don’t you think?

Ladhar Bheinn

Day 2 was reserved for mighty Ladhar Bheinn (1020m) – pronounced Larven - a big mountain with more than its fair share of stunning rock architecture, impressive ridges and cavernous corries. There are no short cuts from Inverie so you have to work for your summit! Choose the right day though and you will be rewarded with spectacular views from the most westerly Munro on the Scottish mainland. In particular, the views north across Loch Hourn to Arnisdale and Beinn Sgritheall and down to Barrisdale in the noth-east emphasise Ladhar Bheinn’s splendid isolation. After my ceaseless attempts to get everyone interested in mountain flowers, I was greatly heartened when I thought I detected a nanosecond of excitement when Superman discovered an orchid! It didn’t last! Our approach gave us a bird’s eye view of the mountain’s pre-eminent feature: Coire Dhorrcail, a huge steep-sided corrie shaped by earth movements and ice into a stunning, silent ampitheatre. For a mountain with such stunning approach climbs, Ladhar Bheinn has a curious summit – a tent-shaped ridge complete with 3 summit markers (a bit like Beinn a’Ghlo – see April): 2 cairns and a half-destroyed OS trig point! The high point is the central pimple. All of this comes as some surprise after the ups and downs of the outlying ridges, but its very pleasant to wander along this level 500m of ridge and your departure should not be rushed (saving for, perhaps, the onset of hypothermia)!

Summit Ridge of Ladhar Bheinn

We descended the west ridge towards An Diollaid and peeled off down to Folach where a spot of rain tried to dampen our spirits. But it needn’t have bothered – the 7 kms walk out along a forest track was sufficient! The Teacher helped us pass the time with a sort of mobile pub quiz with subjects ranging from US presidents to Top of the Pops! The Professor was very kind and let me win! As it turned out, rain gave way to a beautiful sunny evening and venison casserole at the Old Forge with a glass of Merlot seemed an appropriate signing-off for a big mountain day - 9½ hrs!

Luinne Bheinn

The final hill day saw us stride manfully once more up the Barrisdale track, past the Brockett Memorial and all the way up to Mam Barrisdale before actually getting on to our mountain and achieving our third and final Knoydart Munro: Luinne Bheinn (939m). Again, warm sunshine adorned the summit and spectacular views in every direction capped a rewarding climb. We resisted the dubious temptation to re-take Meall Buidhe on the way home and instead, retraced our steps (exactly), our tired legs slowly consuming the long miles back down the Barrisdale track, past the Brockett Memorial.............

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Sunshine on Skye!

Cuillin Ridge

Last week I again helped out Darren with a party of Scotland’s finest youngsters on a couple of days climbing two of the easier peaks on the Cuillin Ridge of Skye. Perfect weather provided a magical backdrop to the climbs and afforded great views all along the ridge as well as to distant Ben Nevis in the south-east and the Outer Hebrides out to sea.

Day 1 saw us departing from the Glen Brittle youth hostel and wandering up past deep pools and waterfalls into Coire a’ Ghreadaidh. Half-way up, the grass gives way to good old Cuillin gabbro rock and the last part of the route is up a scree-filled gulley to An Dorus (the door) – a distinct notch on the main ridge which provides relatively easy access on to the skyline. The highlight for us today was the sight of a golden eagle right above us; for some of the party, it was their first such sighting! A left turn at the top up a tricky (for some) rock step opens the way to a short scramble along the ridge to the summit of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh (918m). The return route was modified slightly to avoid the rock step. We intercepted the scree gulley a little way below An Dorus and returned to a Glen Brittle bathed in hot sunshine under cloudless skies – Skye as you must experience it at least once in your life (although you may have to try quite a few times before succeeding)!

Am Basteir

Day 2 started from the Sligachan Hotel and we took the well-worn, but good quality path up towards the base of Sgurr nan Gillean’s Pinnacle Ridge before threading our way across Coire Bhasteir right below the imposing chisel-shaped rock peak of Am Basteir and its detached offspring, the Basteir Tooth. Once again, what should we see soaring above us but one of those golden eagles - and for some of the party it was their second such sighting! It was then just a short traverse across the odd soft snow patch to our summit of the day, the Cuillin’s easiest Munro: Bruach na Frithe (958m). From here we could again see along the length and breadth of the main ridge whilst that newly-familiar golden sun just kept on shining! Our descent took us down into Fionn Choire before following the bubbling waters of the Allt Dearg Mor back to ‘the Slig’.

Sgurr nan Gillean and Am Basteir From Bruach na Frithe

If you want to try your hand at the UK’s premier mountain chain and you have little experience of climbing and scrambling, treat the adventure (because that is what it will be) will a deal of respect. Research the Cuillin fully and gain as much understanding as you can of the complexities, difficulties and technical problems involved in traversing these enigmatic rock pinnacles. Unless you are very experienced, employ a local guide and get yourself very fit . You should be entirely comfortable with exposed ridges and rock ledges (not to mention route-finding prowess) to tackle the peaks separately and you will need rock climbing skills and experience in order to conquer Sgurr Dearg’s Inaccessable Pinnacle and some of the intervening steps along the Ridge.

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

The Pentland Hills

Looking South-East From Allermuir Hill

Having waited 30-odd years to set foot in these rounded dumplings of grass and heather which carry the Southern Uplands all the way to Edinburgh’s doorstep, I’ve now spent quite a few days wandering over them. Whilst they lend themselves to a variety of half-day circular walks from any direction, it is worth considering at least once, tackling all 13 of the north-eastern most hills in a single day. This ring of shapely hills form an elongated horseshoe encircling Glencorse Reservoir.

Carnethy Hill

My preferred start point is the car park at Bonaly on the southern outskirts of Edinburgh where a track leads up past an old reservoir and out on to the open hill. The route can be followed either clockwise or anti-clockwise and can be curtailed at almost any point by descdending to Glencorse Reservoir and retracing the path/track back to Bonaly.

Logan Burn

From Bonaly, I recommend going anti-clockwise thus taking the furthest – and highest - hills early and hopefully ending up with good views of Edinburgh in the evening sunlight! This route takes in the minor humps of Harbour Hill (421m) and Bell’s Hill (406m) before climbing over the dark heather hump of Black Hill (501m). A sharp descent to the Logan Burn leads to a good lunch spot before the climb up to the bealach between East and West Kip. The latter appears as a sharp cone from many aspects and serves as a useful navigation marker for the early part of the route.

The Distinctive Cone of West Kip

From West Kip (551m) which marks the furthest point from Bonaly, an excellent path follows the ridge north-eastwards over East Kip (534m), South Black Hill (563m), Scald Law (579m), Carnethy Hill (573m) and Turnhouse Hill (505m) before descending into the softer and greener landscape of Glencorse. You then pick your way around various path junctions before climbing out of the glen past the Army rifle range and on up to Castlelaw Hill (488m), keeping to the right side of the boundary fence if the red flags are flying (and even if they’re not, I would suggest)!

Turnhouse Hill From Castlelaw

From Castlelaw, a track leads down and over a conspicuous cattle grid before climbing sharply up to Allermuir Hill (493m) which suddenly brings Edinburgh and the Firth of Forth into view. From here, a diversion is made eastwards above the Hillend artificial ski slope to Caerketton Hill (c490m) the very last bump before Edinburgh. You then retrace your steps back over Allermuir and cross Capelaw Hill (454m) before descending back down to Bonaly.

Tackling all of these hills in a single day is straightforward for fit hillwalkers with 8 hrs to spare. Whilst some will want to spend longer savouring parts of the walk and will choose to split it up into separate days, the complete round is a very satisfying achievement. It should be contemplated at least once by those who tramp these picturesque hills frequently. For non-locals, who may only get one chance to sample the Pentlands, this day will give the complete package and an instant understanding of what they have to offer!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Tinto Hill

Tinto From the South

Tinto is the largest and most conspicuous prominence in the upper Clde valley and is the highest hill a motorist on the M74 will see close up after crossing the border at Gretna and before entering the Highlands. The name Tinto derives from the red felsite rocks of which much of the hill is composed.

The most obvious start is the car park at Fallburn on the A73 from where a well-graded path climbs easily around the flank of Totherin Hill before crossing the upper reaches of Maurice’s Cleuch and on up to the prominent cairn that sits atop a big pile of stones. From the summit (707m), there are good views in every direction with the Pentland Hills a line of distant bumps 26 miles away to the north-east. The summit is criss-crossed with sheep fences but otherwise the ground is clear of obstacles and the well-cropped heath is a joy to walk on. Today, the only hazard was the strong gusty wind which whipped the map from my pocket and carried it at some speed in the general direction of the North Sea! I returned the same way down the path which was neither wet nor muddy and saw not a soul on the hill. A lone meadow pipit and the musical call of a curlew were my only companions on this blustery day!

Approaching the Summit From the North

My quick saunter took just 90 minutes up and down, but a family group could comfortably stretch it out to an enjoyable half day, particularly if the outlying hills of Scaut Hill (586m) and Lochlyock Hill (529m) are included. These 2 hills combine with Tinto to make an entertaining east-west ridge walk provided that you can arrange transport at both ends.

So next time you’re flogging up the M74 towards more exotic peaks, why not pull over for a couple of hours and take a pleasant walk up this wee hill with a view. You might even find my map!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Beinn a' Ghlo

The view across the massif from Carn Liath

Easter this year offered the chance of a solo day in the southern Grampians. There's a few mountains to choose from here, but my favourite - and the finest hill in these parts - is the big twisting ridge of Beinn a' Ghlo above Blair Atholl. This imposing massif throws up 3 Munros and embraces 19 corries and legend has it that a gun fired in any one of the corries cannot be heard in any other! A high start (340m) from the road-end by Loch Moraig ensures you get a rapid and impressive return for your efforts with this mountain and the first summit of Carn Liath (975m) should be achievable within 90 mins from setting out. I was lucky with the weather on Easter Saturday and was rewarded with an impressive view of the whole mountain from the first summit of the day. Great views abound in all directions as you would expect from Beinn a' Ghlo's position at the southern end of the Grampians.

Looking Back at Carn Liath

From Carn Liath an excellent path guides you along the swerving spine of the massif, descending gently to a narrow col (760m) before climbing steadily to the second summit, Braigh Coire Chruinn-bhalgain, a smashing name for a Munro (1070m). Northwards from here the Cairngorms really don't look that far away and the entire vista between north and south-east is filled with rolling mountains. A modest descent to a final col (847m) leads to the steady climb up to the mountain's crowning summit, Carn nan Gabhar (1129m). The summit ridge is adorned with 3 possible summit markers: a large cairn, an Ordnance Survey trig point and a further cairn, all at about 200m intervals. The actual summit is the 3rd of these, the easternmost cairn beyond the trig point - don't be short-changed in misty conditions!

From Carn na Gabhar, the usual return is made back along the summit ridge you've just traversed to its SW end over the subsidary top of Airgiod Bheinn (1061m). A shaly path descends steeply to the surrounding heather tableland and a return to the car is made along a good path which joins the track back to Loch Moraig. Allow a full day for this fine mountain day and expect to complete it in 6-8 hrs.

The Hercules Memorial Cairn

On this day though, I left the growing number of fellow hillwalkers I'd seen along the way and descended the deserted eastern slopes of the mountain down into Glen Loch to pay my respects at a memorial cairn marking the site where a RAF Hercules aircraft crashed on 27th May 1993 taking the lives of 9 servicemen, some of them colleagues of mine - and one of them a close friend. Despite the incipient sadness, this is a wonderfully remote highland spot, a long way from any public road and seldom visited by hillwalkers. A visit to the cairn will increase the day by a good 2 hrs. The long walk out below the southern ramparts of all the day's summits and a potentially difficult crossing of the Allt Coire Lagain won't be to everyone's liking - but sometimes you just have to do what you have to do. RIP bonnie lads.

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm