Torridon 2012

Rainbow Over Beinn Eighe

Ben Nevis

Last week started with another ascent of Ben Nevis with Mike from Canada who accomplished an impressive up-and-down in just over 5 hrs.  We delayed the climb by a day whilst yet another decaying hurricane brushed the NW coast of Britain.  This enforced an early start the following morning (a bit of a shock, I can tell you)!  However, any thoughts of a quiet mountain were soon quashed as hundreds of Ben Nevis and Three Peaks charity walkers were already swarming up the mountain!

Busy Ben!

Our early start did, however, provide the best weather window of the day and we had a clear summit (of sorts) as reward for our efforts.  We were down by 2 and soon away – Mike with a long drive to London to endure and myself with a much-anticipated return to Torridon and the greatest mainland mountains in the country!

Gardyloo Gulley

Torridon

As it turned out, we didn’t actually climb many mountains, not that the week was any less enjoyable for that.  Jacqui’s return to full fitness did not quite extend to climbing up and down the soaring sandstone terraces of the Torridon inselbergs. So I made alternative arrangements with her and Yvonne whilst more experienced hillwalker Peter agreed to try the bigger stuff by himself.  Plans for a mid-week traverse of Liathach were also scuppered when he was called away to a job interview.  I told you it was a funny old week!

Slioch From Fionn Bheinn

We did all start together, however, with a short drive to Achnasheen for an attempt at Fionn Bheinn, the most southerly of the Fannaichs and a straightforward grassy hill blessed with a high start and modest Munro height.  The ladies made a good go at it, traipsing through unseasonably wet bog, peat hags and grass towards what turned out to be an elusive summit.  Some 200m shy of the trig point, we gave up the chase and turned for home, leaving Peter to continue and claim his 10^th Munro. 

Fionn Bheinn

Over the next few days, whilst Peter enjoyed 4-season weather whilst traversing Slioch and Beinn Alligin, I showed the girls some of the more interesting and entertaining low-level walks in this part of the world.  There are plenty of them!

Glen Docherty & Loch Maree

The Fairy Lochs above Badachro near Gairloch are always good for dreich days.  They can be a sombre experience though, bearing as they do, a sad yet touching memorial to young US servicemen whose journey home after the war was tragically cut short when their Liberator aircraft crashed here.  Aircraft debris still lies scattered around the lochs together with flags, plaques and wreaths.  In bleak weather, this can be  a mournful place in every sense.  Uplifting too.

Fuar Tholl

Next day we drove around to Achnashellach for the ever-pleasant climb up into Coire Lair.  The heavy showers were short-lived and the gaps between them thankfully long as we set off through the rhododendrons.  Crossing the railway line by the station, we climbed through the mixed woodland and up the excellent stalkers path below the towering cliffs of Fuar Tholl and into the corrie.  All the encircling mountains were in full view for much of the time and it was a grand day out.  This walk never disappoints.

                                    

Coire Lair

Wednesday took us to the Torridon Inn and another hill path that starts up through rampaging rhododendrons and then Caledonian pines onto the open hillside.  This time it was another favourite wet weather alternative of mine, the hill path up Beinn Damh.  

Beinn Damh

We emerged above the tree line and stopped a short way on beside a very photogenic sequence of pools, rapids and a 30m waterfall as the Allt Coire Roill tumbles down to Loch Torridon.  Beinn Alligin and Liathach look great from this side of Glen Torridon.

Allt Coire Roill Below Beinn Damh

Finally, Thursday took us to Applecross up and over the hairpins of the Bealach na Ba (pass of the cattle) to the useful car park at the top of the pass.  From here, we traversed across the sandstone plateau, passing a watchful herd of Red Deer before the earth fell away in dramatic suddenness to reveal the stunning mountain landscape that the Applecross Hills have to offer.  

Bealach na Ba

Yvonne paused to admire the view as Jacqui and I traversed the few entertaining humps that lead to the Corbett summit of Sgurr a’Chaorachain (792m; peak of the little field of berries).

Sgurr a’Chaorachain

Apart from the deer (they were still there on the way back), we also came across a wee baby rabbit that popped out from under a rock before we carefully replaced it before Mr Eagle came calling.  A lone ptarmigan completed the most interesting wildlife day of the week as we returned to the car.  Then it was down to Applecross for some cullen skink and a welcome bowl of chips!  

Over the Sea to Skye

A visit to the walled garden of Applecross House and a walk along the Applecross river and beach completed the day - and the week - in glorious sunshine.  The girls want to go back!  

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm