Knoydart & Mull

The Hills of Knoydart

As if in reward for the seemingly endless mild, wet and sunless winter just gone, May 2016 has seen a sustained period of warm, dry and very sunny weather in the NW Highlands.  As such, our timing was perfect for 2 of the finest areas on the west coast of Scotland: the remote peninsula of Knoydart and the special island of Mull.

Ladhar Bheinn

Ladhar Bheinn

This majestic mountain (one of Scotland’s finest), is best approached from the north where the full glory of the mountain’s defining feature, Coire Dhorrcail, can be fully appreciated.  Unfortunately, logistically, Knoydart is best accessed by ferry from the south (Mallaig) with the walk beginning in Inverie.

The Knoydart Ferry

Logisitcs won out this time so immediately after arriving at Inverie we headed north out of the village and over Mam Uidhe into Gleann na Guiserein. At this point, Ladhar Bheinn’s uniformly steep southern grassy slopes loom into view and the climb ahead is pretty straightforward.

Beinn Sgritheall & Loch Hourn

The track ends at the bridge immediately before the ruin of Folach, after which a path curves left around a conifer plantation and climbs steadily to the skyline ridge of An Diollaid.  From here, the view northwards suddenly unfolds with peaks disappearing as far as the eye can see. 

The Summit Ridge of Ladhar Bheinn

Then it’s along the ever-tightening shoulder to the 400m-long summit ridge which is punctuated by a half-demolished trig point, the summit cairn itself and one further cairn which gives one of the finest viewpoints in the Highlands - Ladhar Bheinn (1020m; hoof hill).

Core Dhorrcail From the Eastern Summit

 views north and east are to die for so try and keep the mountain for a clear day. Immediately below you, the eye is led across the mighty chasm of Coire Dhorrcail to the fjord-like Loch Hourn and the mountains of Kintail and the Rough Bounds of Knoydart.  If you’re a hillwaker, try and make this viewpoint at least once!

The View Up Loch Hourn From the Summit

We returned the same way (no golden eagles this time, as on my last visit), and the long miles back up Gleann na Guiserein led us eventually to the welcome refuge of the Old Forge and much-needed sustenance!  

Luinne Bheinn & Meall Buidhe

Luinne Bheinn & Meall Buidhe From Loch Nevis

This is a walking day, much more than a climbing day.  The 2 Munros are not particularly high, complex or difficult.  But they are a long way from home however you do them and from Inverie, you will cover a little over 27Km to gain both summits.

Gleann an Dubh-Lochain

This time, I elected to do them in a clock-wise direction, starting with the long 10Km walk up Gleann an Dubh-Lochain to the pass of Mam Barrisdale (450m).  It is better to do this long walk-in in the morning, whilst relatively fresh, instead of facing it at the end of the day when the miles can feel very weary!

Luinne Bheinn 

From Mam Barrisdale,  we turned right and followed the line of fence-posts for 500m before traversing left up on to Bachd Mhic an Tossaich and the skyline ridge that leads to the summit of Luinne Bheinn (939m; angry hill). Again, great views in all directions await you with the green sward of Barrisdale immediately below you to the north.

Sgurr na Ciche

From the summit, we traversed over the slightly lower eastern top before descending steeply to the connecting ridge between the 2 Munros.  A good path leads over or around all the lumps and bumps before the final steep (but relatively short) climb up to Meall Buidhe’s eastern top. The view east across the Rough Bounds is superlative with the graceful cone of Sgurr na Ciche a particular highlight.  It’s a short hop across to the 2^nd Munro summit of the day: Meall Buidhe (946m; yellow hill).

Meall Buidhe

Not for the first time, the view west out to sea from this summit was bathed in sunshine with a sparkling sea and the islands of the Inner and Outer Hebrides proving to be a great reward for our efforts.  The view stays with you as you descend westwards - and will live long in the memory if you choose the right day!

The View West From the Summit

The most expeditious descent from the mountain’s W ridge begins just as it begins to narrow into Druim Righeanaich. You have a choice between steep grassy slopes or easier-going stony ground.  However, once June arrives, the waist-deep bracken will make any descent here tricky so plan accordingly!  Once down into Gleann Meadail, aim for the obvious bridge immediately east of the choke-point below Torr an Tuirc and pick up the track that leads all the way back to Inverie.

Mull - Ben More

Ben More From the Abhainn Dhiseig

We started, as I’ve always done, from Dhiseig and headed up the signposted track/path alongside the Abhainn Dhiseig.  Ben More doesn’t take long to climb - it’s a very straightforward route, mostly up grassy slopes with some volcanic scree as you approach the summit. 

A' Chioch From Ben More

There’s no walk-in as such, you just get out of the car and walk up the mountain.  The views across Loch na Keal expand steadily as you climb and Iona and Staffa are clearly visible to the west.  In the other direction, looking towards the mainland, there are mountains everywhere!

Although early in the season, we had plenty of company on the hill, but there was no summit string quartet as on a previous visit!  The summit itself is a fine viewpoint as you would expect from the highest point on any island.  This particular summit, however, is always a pleasure to visit: Ben More (966m; big hill).

Check out my plans for similar walks at: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm