The Rough Bounds of Knoydart

Looking West From Sgurr Mor

At the end of the long, lonely single-track road that extends for 20 Kms west from Achnacarry alongside Loch Arkaig, lies the gateway to an isolated area of very rugged mountains and corries and wet glens.  These comprise the eastern border of the Knoydart peninsula hence the area’s appropriately descriptive title.

Strathan, at the Head of Loch Arkaig

There are at least 2 full hill days to be had here, taking in 4 Munros.  Whilst they can, in extremis, be combined into one very long gruelling traverse, it is not to be recommended.  With winter approaching and a Munro round to finish off, I didn’t have the luxury of conservative planning.  And after all, I was only looking to climb 3 of the 4 hills.

Glen Dessary

Leaving the car at the newly enlarged car park at the end of Loch Arkaig, I used the bike for the first 2½ Kms of good track to the estate buildings at Glendessary (the 5 Kms saving on walking was significant, given the length of my day).  Thereafter, I continued on foot along a Glen Dessary bathed in autumn colours and weak sunshine. 

Climbing Above Glen Dessary

After the cottage at Upper Glendessary, the track becomes a rough path and then a rough, wet path alongside a forestry plantation until you reach the crossing of the Allt Coire nan Uth.  Patches of early morning (I’d been up since 6.30) valley cloud and mist added to the atmospherics of this remote place, but the summits were all clear.  There was no mistaking the season of the year.

West From Garbh Chioch Bheag

Turning right off the main path, I started up the S ridge of Sgurr nan Coireachan (a good path) until about 600m before veering left up into the adjoining corrie to reach the skyline at the Bealach Coire nan Gall (733m).  The next 2 hrs were taken up picking my way delicately along the rough, prickly ridge of the Garbh Chiochs - a succession of rocky ups and downs which, even with the aid of a clear path, made for slow painstaking progress.  A dry stone dyke accompanies you the whole way!

Garbh Chioch Mhor & Sgurr na Ciche

The ridge eventually ends at the distinctive shapely cone of Sgurr na Ciche, but today I only had to go as far as Garbh Chioch Mhor (1013m; big rough hill of the breast).  The views are spectacular of course, west out to sea and the Small Isles; north and south across endless peaks. 

West From Garbh Chioch Mhor

Retracing my steps to the Bealach Coire nan Gall, it was time to start climbing again with a  short, sharp pull on to Munro No 2: Sgurr nan Coireachan (953m; peak of the corries).  

Sgurr nan Coireachan

You are now perched mid-way between Glen Dessary and Loch Quoich with wide vistas all around.  My 3^rd Munro of the day (Sgurr Mor) lay some way off to the NW and required 2 intermediate ascents before reaching the last col (750m) prior to the final ascent.  This is why most people quite rightly treat it as a separate hill-day.

A Distant Sgurr Mor From Sgurr nan Coireachan

Still, the weather stayed dry and clear as I traversed around to An Eag and then up and over Sgurr Beag before one final toil up the final climb of the day to one of the more remote Munro summits: Sgurr Mor (1003m; big peak).  

Sgurr Mor

Still 8 Kms from the car, I didn’t have too much time to admire the views - back across the Rough Bounds to Knoydart and onwards across Loch Quoich - before heading down into Glen Kingie.

East from Sgurr Mor Towards Gairich & Loch Quoich

The route is now both wet and pathless for half of the way home.  Crossing the infant River Kingie can be problematical in spate, but there were no such difficulties today.  Be prepared to have to detour upstream in wet conditions.

Sugar Mor From the South

A slight climb to a boggy saddle at 360m enables you to intercept the stalkers’ path from Glen Kingie which then leads down to Glendessary.  The bike whisked me back to the car in 10 mins! 

               

Check out my plans for similar walks at http://www.hillways.co.uk/.htm