To Skye With The Mighty Quinn(s)!

Loch Coruisk

This has not been a classic May so far, weather-wise, on the Misty Isle. But it was OK for my return last week when the highlight of the week was meeting up with the Quinn brothers, Michael and Chris who were closing in on their last 4 Cuillin Munros. Having warmed up on the Five Sisters of Kintail, they met up with me at Glen Brittle Youth Hostel where we decided which of the 4 remaining peaks the conditions would lend themselves to. In the event, we elected for the relatively safe route up into Coire a' Ghreadaidh to climb the 2 central peaks of Sgurr a' Mhadaidh and Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh.

Coire a' Ghreadaidh

The path leads up alongside the delightful waterfalls and rock pools that the Allt a' Choire Ghreadaidh has created to add interest to its relentless journey down the mountainside to the sea. Louseworts and milkworts provided some rare colour by the path but there was no sign of the golden eagle sighting I had rashly promised Michael. A passing shower dampened only the gore-tex as our spirits remained high given the rapid progress this route makes up on to the higher ground. You might expect any mountain day with the Irish to be entertaining and the boys didn’t let me down. I now know an awful lot more about the differences between Scottish and Irish Gaelic, how to service a Boeing 737, and the development of Soviet-Irish diplomatic relations, than I did last week! Cloud shrouded the ridgeline and did so for much of the day but we could clearly see our route up on to the scree and into our gateway to the skyline: An Dorus (the door), a sharp defile that provides a rare access route on to the main Cuillin ridge.

An Dorus

Whilst An Dorus itself is easily attained, it takes a tricky rock step to climb out of it on either side and a steady head – and hold or two – is required to make onward progress. One of these can be avoided on the left by leaving the gulley about 20m below the ridge and working your way up shaley ledges before scrambling up on to the rather anti-climactic summit of Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh (918m; peak of the foxes). Just north of this summit the Cuillin ridge makes a 90 degree turn eastwards before continuing on to the northern peaks that culminate in the shapely spire of Sgurr nan Gillean. The only view we got today was of the day’s other objective: one of the Cuillin’s finest peaks: Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh. We returned to An Dorus the same way thus avoiding one difficult step; but there was no escaping the second one which gets you on your way southwards.

Sgurr a' Mhadaidh

Soon after leaving An Dorus you come across the rock crevice of Eag Dubh (black notch) which has been sliced out of the ridge and is narrow enough to give an Asda shopper a tight squeeze. It can however be avoided to the left and the ridge is again followed up past the Wart, an impressive prow of gabbro which appears to block the way from a distance but is in fact easily passed to the right.

Eag Dubh

A little after this the ridge narrows and a diminutive summit cairn marks the northern and highest summit of Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh (973m; peak of torment). The summit ridge of this fine mountain forms a twin-peaked sharp ridge which is the narrowest rock arête in Britain. Nowhere is it technically difficult but a steady head and sure foot is required throughout and the traverse of the mountain is totally absorbing. Do it on a fine day when this aerial walkway will give you one of your most memorable UK mountain experiences – but do it!

Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh From Sgurr a' Mhadaidh

If you decide to continue south from here, as I did earlier in the week, there are no escape routes off the ridge for some way so be warned. The ridge continues south-west from Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh past the rock pinnacles of the Three Teeth and over the cone of Sgurr Thormaid to the next Munro: Sgurr na Banachdich. Further on again and you come to Sgurr Dearg and its iconic summit prominence, the Inaccessible Pinnacle (which loomed out of the mist and was deserted today). You can then escape westwards down a good path back to Glen Brittle.

A Misty and Deserted Inaccessible Pinnacle

Today, however, the 3 of us returned to An Dorus and successfully negotiated the difficult step and made good our descent back the way we had come. One brief shower on the way down but still no golden eagles! The next day Michael and Chris endured a magnificent 10-hour day and secured their last 2 Cuillin Munros. Job done – as they say in Ireland! I bet some Guinness was downed that night....

The Ochil Hills

The Southern Wall of the Ochil Hills

Cool but clear weather this bank holiday weekend induced me to drive north to Dollar and explore the much-vaunted Ochil Hills, many locals’ favourite uplands. Ochil comes from the ancient Brittonic/Celtic word uchel = high. Their most impressive feature (by some margin) is the wall of steep grassy slopes arranged in a uniform line above the hillfoot towns of Menstrie, Alva, Tillicoultry and Dollar. The hills themselves extend for some 30km between Bridge of Allan and Auchterarder forming a dissected plateau of eroded lava flows that averages about 600m in height. The Ochils offer a number of circular options from the hillfoot towns with paths leading into steep-sided glens and up the numerous spurs that the higher ground throws down on to the flatlands of the mid-Forth valley. Today I planned one of the longer options: a 5-hour circuit from Dollar that would take in the Ochil’s highest point, Ben Cleugh.

Bank Hill and King's Seat Hill

Dollar has a nice rural feel about it and the town planners have done well to maximise the town’s position immediately below Dollar Glen. A hill road winds up alongside the Dollar Burn past the golf club to the first of 2 strategically placed car parks; these give a useful head start in elevation. I followed the lane up past Castle Campbell which is currently undergoing restoration work and is consequently shrouded in scaffolding and cladding. Then it was up the eastern tributary of the Dollar Burn, the beautifully named Water of Care (the other tributary bears the equally evocative title, the Water of Sorrow). The path is a right-of-way much-used in olden days for travel between Dunfermline and Blackford by, amongst others, chanters: travelling salesmen who were keen to avoid road tolls using the more conventional routes.

Ben Cleugh From King's Seat Hill

Just below the watershed before the Maiden’s Well, strike up the grassy hillside to your left and make a rising traverse for Whitewisp Hill (643m) which marks the eastern end of the higher Ochils. Great name for a hill! From here it’s a steady plod over a broad grassy ridge never undulating more than 100m and following an old fence past Tarmangie Hill (645m), Skythorn Hill, Andrew Gannel Hill (670m) and finally the highest point in the Ochils, Ben Cleuch (721m; hill of the ravine).

Summit View South From Ben Cleugh

An Ordnance Survey trig point and view indicator adorn the summit which gives wide views in all directions: west to Dumyat, the Campsie Fells and Ben Lomond; north to the ubiquitous twins of Ben Vorlich and Stuc a’Chroin, and the Ben Lawers group; east as far as the Lomond Hills, Bass Rock and North Berwick Law; and south to the Pentlands and Tinto Hill. Of closer interest though (and the hill’s best feature by some way) is the view down into Mill Glen which feeds into Tillicoultry. This aspect probably gives the hill its name.

Distant Stuc a'Chroin and Ben Vorlich From Ben Cleugh

After a fairly cool and breezy pause to take in the view, it was time to turn for home back over Andrew Gannel Hill and on to King’s Seat Hill (648m) where a large boulder cairn and windbreak mark the last summit of the day. The name may come from this being the reputed sight from where King Malcolm Canmore would observe his hunt. Maybe... From here Dollar fills the view once again as a good path descends steadily past some ice-scoured landslip troughs – the Banks of Dollar – and Bank Hill (346m). This brings you neatly down into Dollar Glen, a spectacular tree-lined gorge full of interest and spectacle. After hours of gentle plodding over drab grassland the world becomes a striking mix of cascading torrents, rich, vivid green vegetation, plummeting ravines and narrow cliff trails perched in places on timber walkways. Where the Burns of Sorrow and Care meet, Castle Campbell sits isolated on its Hill of Gloom, it’s impressive aura spoilt only by the temporary shroud of protective restoration cladding.

Castle Campbell

I returned to the car down the wee lane accompanied by the therapeutic sounds of the tinkling birdsong and cascading rhythm of the Dollar Burn, and the sweet, sweet aroma of Spring. It must be time to return once more to the Highlands, Skye is calling....

The Lomond Hills From Above Dollar Glen

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Return of the Sun

Allermuir Hill and Castlelaw Hill from the Head of Flotterstone Glen

After the snowiest UK winter I can remember, the sun has returned to lighten the spirit and quicken the step. Temperatures in the high teens earlier this week prompted a return to the nearby Pentland Hills for some airy ridge-walking in the warm sunshine. Shorts, t-shirt and sun cream received their first outing of the year and a 7-hour romp from Balerno to Flotterstone and back (inclusive of pub lunch and a spot of sunbathing) made for a memorable day. I was going to cycle but the prospect of walking the tops in the sun was just too great; and you can cycle any day!

Green Cleugh

Leaving the car at Threipmuir Reservoir, I followed the road to Bavelaw Castle and on to the solid path that winds its way through the steep defile of Green Cleugh (green ravine) which gives access into the heart of the Pentlands. Soon after crossing the 350m summit of the cleugh I struck up the hillside to the right, crossed the Logan Burn and climbed up on to the steep cone of West Kip (from the Celtic word caep = pointed hill; 551m). From the narrow, if short, summit ridge of this pretty wee hill, views opened out in all directions although the heat haze precluded any long distance views. The main spine of the Pentlands now led north-eastwards over East Kip (534m) and up on to Scald Law (579m), the highest point in the range. Then it was down steeply, and back up equally steeply on to bulky Carnethy Hill (from ancient British word carneddau - hill of the cairns; 573m) before the final drop and climb on to grassy Turnhouse Hill (506m).

The Kips

From here the scenery softens as you descend down into Flotterstone Glen past some distinctive wind-sculptured larches and down to the Glencorse Burn. This is crossed just before you join the aptly named Glen Road for the short walk to the Flotterstone Inn and a welcome lunch in the sun in the beer garden.

The Pentland Spine from West Kip

On resuming the walk, the nearby ranger centre is worth a few minutes of your time if you want to learn something about the water industry in the glen. Then it was back up Glen Road, diverting left to take in the old filter beds via a path that follows the burn up a narrow wooded gorge before returning to the road near Glen Cottage. I followed the road alongside Glencorse Reservoir for a mile before turning right up the path to Harlaw. This well-made path climbs up through Maiden's Cleugh between Bell’s Hill and Harbour Hill to a gate/stile at 350m before descending across moorland and then through fields to another ranger centre at Harlaw. Here, Scottish Water played its late afternoon joker by closing off my return route to the car by deciding to rebuild the dam of Harlaw Reservoir! Fortunately, I avoided having to detour all the way to Balerno by finding a conveniently placed footpath through Balleny Farm which got me back to the car without too many additional miles!

This circular route from Threipmuir (equally done from Harlaw) has much to commend it - and not just on a warm sunny day! The topography, scenery and views are constantly changing, you get an excellent feel for the Pentland Hills, and the only pub on the route is perfectly placed after most of the hard work is done. Enjoy!

Descending Turnhouse Hill

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Cairngorms

Lairig Ghru

It has been wild and wintery on the Cairngorms plateau this week but a walk through Rothiemurchus forest gave some softer images as winter slowly gives way to spring:

Braeriach

Lochan Deo

Meall a'Bhuachaille

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Ben Lomond

Ben Lomond

The opportunity to complete a 3rd ascent of Scotland’s most southerly Munro presented itself this week and was readily grasped given some good weather, clear tops and the lingering challenge of winter conditions on high. This is a straightforward, uncomplicated Munro with a well-engineered path that climbs steadily through some de-forested woodland and over a broad grassy shoulder before zigzagging up a short sharp ramp. This puts you on the impressive summit ridge that arcs around a precipitous north-eastern corrie.

Up Loch Lomond to the Arrochar Alps

The car park at Rowardennan was surprisingly busy for a midweek morning in March and bets were soon laid on the chances of a family of 3 clad in trainers and shorts setting foot on the summit! Following the deforestation of the lower slopes, the mountain is visible for much of the early stages and 20 mins normally sees you out of the remaining trees and on to the open hillside. A great view of Loch Lomond opens out to the south and further afield, the Ochils, Central Belt and even the Pentland Hills can be seen on clear days!

Delicate Footwork on the Summit Ridge

As expected, snow and ice were still very much in evidence on the summit ridge and care was again needed to negotiate the summit ridge up to the solitary trig point. Given several days of higher temperatures and the southerly aspect of the mountain’s main route of ascent, the snow was generally soft enough to take a boot and wherever ice was encountered, it could be by-passed without having to revert to ice axe or crampons.

The Summit

The view north encompassed the familiar Arrochar Alps, the Crianlarich hills and a distant Ben Lawers away to the north-east. A young woman on the summit clad in full winter gear announced she was making good use of a month off work by working her way up the western Highlands. And with that, she cheerfully picked up her ice axe and headed off for Torridon!

The View South Across Loch Lomond

The descent was swift and many groups were passed, still heading up this popular and accessible peak which probably has more repeat ascents (amongst Glaswegians, in particular) than most other Munros. Unsurprisingly, there was no sign of the family in trainers!

On the way home, I couldn’t resist the temptation of having my photograph taken at the beginning of the West Highland Way. Not a walk that particularly appeals to this stravaiger of the Scottish mountains, but it was fun to pretend for a few minutes and to be wished good luck by a few good folk of Milngavie!

The Imposter!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Ben Vane - Again!

Ben Vane

Yet another visit to the Arrochar Alps this weekend and a return to that straightforward and uncomplicated wee Munro - Ben Vane. Hah!

The southern highland glens are all free of snow now. Up top, the snow is largely confined to the upper half of the higher peaks. When you do encounter the snow, it is generally soft and patchy. But as you climb higher....

Rainbow on Ben Vorlich

The ascent route was the normal one from Inveruglas viewpoint and up Coire Grogain(see Feb 10 entry). A cold NW wind took the edge off the warmish sunshine and the summits of the surrounding peaks were generally clear. A large number of assorted groups of walkers heralded the approach of Spring and improving weather. The steep 600m flog up the SE face of Ben Vane was as unrelenting as always but widening views across to Ben Vorlich and the other Arrochar Alps provided welcome distraction from the toiling. Best of all though, the shapely white cone of Ben Lomond stood out clearly to the SE looking mightily impressive in its winter raiment.

Ben Lomond

Once on the summit ridge of Ben Vane things changed markedly and rapidly. The snow suddenly hardened to an icy crust, a strong bitter wind made walking difficult and the air temperature dropped significantly! The remaining 300m distance to the summit cairn proved to be a real struggle. Ice axe replaced trekking poles (got very close to donning crampons), mittens replaced gloves and everything suddenly became a real challenge. Fortunately, after struggling up one particular icy step, the cairn finally hove into view and a brief sense of achievement interrupted the hard concentration. In such conditions, a brief pause on the summit was all that was required and an about turn was followed by another 20 mins of ‘careful does it’ before easier conditions were encountered and a straightforward descent accomplished back down the mountain.

On the Icy Summit Ridge

This was a singular lesson in Scottish winter hillwalking. Apparently benign conditions in the glen belying a different world of winter hazards on the summits all waiting to ensnare the unprepared or unequipped walker. Take care folks and always carry ice axe and crampons between November and April – or be prepared to turn back as soon as your boots strikes ice!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Springtime in the Pentlands

Glencorse Reservoir

After almost 3 months of snow, the sun has finally come out and struggled high enough into the sky to give a little warmth! Suddenly, everyone’s talking about Spring and buds and bulbs everywhere are beginning to poke nervous green shoots out of the thawing ground. The Pentland Hills near Edinburgh have had their fair share of snow this winter and have at times been plastered completely in deep powder. During the last few days though, the snow has finally started to recede and the combination of sun, snow and increasing daylight suggested a wander into these unpretentious uplands would give a handsome reward.

Walking in from the Flotterstone Inn and up the metalled road past Glencorse Reservoir, everything was bathed in warm sunshine and people, dogs and children were everywhere. The reservoir was still partly frozen though and a lingering chill in the air provided a necessary reminder that Spring still had some way to go before it would need to start paying council tax! This road walk was very much the preferred option today as the hill routes would have proved to be a messy and tiring struggle in soft snow and saturated ground. However, given the settled weather forecast for the next week or so, this is likely to be a temporary state of affairs and a return to the higher routes will not be far off now.

East Kip and Loganlea Reservoir

A friendly fisherman stopped to bemoan the paucity of gullible rainbow trout in the reservoir and he trundled off seeking a more rewarding spot from which to cast his line. A typically scatty collection of Pentland sheep got themselves into a manic state of distress and quite unnecessarily launched themselves across the icy waters of the Logan Burn in order to escape a non-existent threat from innocent walkers. Having reached Loganlea Reservoir, the upper reservoir in the glen, a growing appetite for a late lunch suggested an about turn and the road was followed back down to the Flotterstone Inn car park. Again, the winning combination of sun and snow – now both beginning to lose their influence on the scene – provided a stunning backdrop to the late afternoon landscape.

These soft, rolling hills were beautiful today and there convenience, being so close to Edinburgh, and what they have to offer, should not be underestimated. But now it’s time to return to the high mountains and some not too distant Munros are calling.......

Castlelaw Hill and Glencorse Reservoir

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm