Assynt & Coigach 2011 – Walking Through Time

Suilven

Jennifer put down her fancy software analysis testing tool (sorry, hammer) and decided she should check out the far north-west of Scotland with a visit to the rather special mountain paradise that is Assynt & Coigach. The area immediately to the north of the bespoke fishing village/foreign tourist magnet of Ullapool boasts a unique combination of colour, light and scenery that comes with a generous array of ⅔ scale mountains. These model hills give a great return for the relatively modest amount of energy required to climb them. As an added bonus – and partly due to pesky weather re-thinks – we ventured a little further afield and also enjoyed good days on Ben Hope and mighty An Teallach.

The Coigach Hills

Ben More Coigach

First up, the usually reliable opening-day hill of Ben More Coigach (743m; big hill of Coigach) couldn’t shake off its cloak of orographic cloud and we traversed its impressive sandstone wall enshrouded in mist with only occasional – and tantalising – glimpses of the surrounding hills and the sea at our feet. A noisy, though welcome, golden plover and a young family of ptarmigan were the only warm-blooded creatures we saw all day, apart from each other – although at times the keen northerly wind threatened to make that a contentious point!

Cul Mor From Stac Pollaidh

Similar conditions on Day 2 gave us an almost identical experience on Cul Mor (849m; big back), the highest of the Coigach hills, but on this occasion, one with few views, no shadows and little reason to linger on the high tops.

Ben Hope

Ben Hope

Come Day 3 and we started to turn things around. A planned attempt on Suilven was soon dismissed as cloud and rain made driving, let alone walking, difficult! Jennifer had already decided that Scotland’s most northerly Munro deserved her close attention and so we duly ventured north to the end of the known world and a 3hr drive brought us to the foot of this fine peak. It never takes long to climb Ben Hope. A good path, no discernible walk-in and a summit that sits just over 3Km from the start point ensure you can normally complete the ascent in under 2hrs. Some begin (and were doing so today) from Alltnacaillich farm further up the glen. Although longer, this route gives an enjoyable traverse along the crest of the amphibolite sill of Leitir Mhuiseil that leads to the mountain’s southern ridge. Both routes then converge and climb steadily above the mountain’s steep western flanks until the small flat summit is reached: Ben Hope (927m; hill of the bay). Remember to seek out the trig point though as it is easy to mistake the small pile of stones that mark the end of the climbing for the summit. It’s one hell of a distance to travel to make that mistake (and I’d have never heard the end of it…)!

Ben Hope - The Ascent Route

As if the mountain day wasn’t memorable enough, the long journey home was greatly enhanced by the sight of a snipe bursting from the verge-side followed a few miles later by some close formation flying by a great spotted woodpecker! And just when you thought it couldn’t get any better, we had that amazing first sight of Suilven from Strath Oykel – a view that never palls.

Stac Pollaidh

Stac Pollaidh

This diminutive, perky and pert little peak (try saying that after your 2nd single malt) never ceases to provide a half day’s entertainment. At last, we got our first cloudless summit and a bit of sun to warm the rock as we scrambled along, over and around the sandstone pinnacles that form the rapidly eroding summit crest of this model mountain. Jennifer proved that steady concentration and a few deep breaths were all that was needed to tackle the most difficult problems. She also demonstrated a commendable lack of hesitation in nimbly negotiating the final ‘difficult step’ that leads to the summit cairn at the western end of the kilometre-long summit ridge.

Jennifer in Her (New) Element!

We had the summit to ourselves and did it justice by remaining there for a good half-hour mesmerised by the amazing panoramic view this gem of a hill provides: Stac Pollaidh (612m; steep rock at the pool). We returned the same way (you don’t have much choice) and took time to visit the far eastern end of the summit ridge which is slightly less eroded than the remainder of the crest. Finally, we begrudgingly descended around the back of the hill thereby ensuring we covered just about all the angles of this fine peak. As always, this was a fun day!

Suilven

Suilven From Elphin

After a long absence, Suilven finally lifted her petticoats for me again and reminded me why this masterpiece of mountain architecture will always repay the long drive and walk-in (not to mention walk-out)! We started from close by Glencanisp Lodge and followed the excellent path/track past Suileag bothy (an hour’s walking, and unseen from the path), to the small wooden bridge (1½ hrs) and thence across country to the base of the climb up the Bealach Mor (2½ hs). Patience and a steady pace will bring you to each landmark in turn and there is no point in rushing – save some energy not only for the climb, but also to enjoy Suilven's piece de resistance: the mountain's sublime summit ridge.

Suilven's Summit Ridge

This priceless – and only – weakness in the slopes of this battleship of a hill is the key to the climb. A clear, but steep, path (which won’t suit every software-testing analysist) eventually leads you to where you’ve been yearning to get for the past 3 hrs – the summit ridge of the finest peak in Assynt and a permanent resident of Scotland’s Top Ten: Suilven (the pillar). On this occasion, and with timing, choreography and stagecraft that I take full credit for, our arrival on the ridge was heralded by a majestic flypast by a golden eagle so close you could hear the airflow hissing over this sublime flier’s primary wing feathers. You couldn’t have scripted it!

Suilven From Glencanisp Lodge

A short walk along the ridge leads you to the mountain’s highest point, Caisteal Liath (731m; grey castle). As with Stac Pollaidh, this is a really special place and a spot to linger as your eyes gaze out over the ‘knockan and lochan’ landscape of the Inverpolly National Nature Reserve towards the blue shining waters of the Minch and the islands of the Outer Hebrides.

Suilven From Stac Pollaidh

Closer to home, the inselberg peaks of Assynt & Coigach stand their ground whilst back along the summit crest, Suilven’s eastern summits send an impressive wedge skywards and complete a spectacular picture show. Make sure you always save Suilven for a clear day; otherwise, little of what I have described will make sense. But as for that eagle, well I’m afraid that’s reserved for Hillways gold card holders!

An Teallach

Corrag Bhuidhe

Best day, best mountain: it was as simple as that! By common consent, this mighty castellated cathedral of Torridonian sandstone with quartzite trimmings is one of the 2 greatest mainland peaks in the UK and holds within its ramparts one of the 2 greatest corries in the land! As usual, we started from Corrie Hallie and walked down the road for 10 mins to the beginning of the path. As usual, it was raining. As usual, Jennifer was loving it!

Sail Liath Across Toll an Lochain

Half way up the climb and well into the imposing corrie of Glas Tholl, the weather cleared and stayed fair for the remainder of the day. A passing walker in running shoes and lycra shorts threatened to upset Jennifer’s equilibrium but she soon recovered when she realised she was stuck with me for the rest of the day! Three hours from the car we stood on top of the mountain’s highest point: Bidean a’ Ghlas Thuill (1062m; pinnacle of the grey-green hollow). The view from the summit trig point across the yawning depths of Toll an Lochain to Sgurr Fiona must be the single most impressive view from any UK mountain top and never fails to take your breath away (unless you do it on a cloudy day of course)! We paused to take it all in. I recommend you do likewise!

Sgurr Fiona From Bidean a’ Ghlas Thuill

It never seems to take very long to descend and re-ascend the connecting ridge to An Teallach’s 2nd Munro: Sgurr Fiona (1060m; white peak). This is probably due to the magnificence of the surroundings as much as the relatively short distance (1 km). Again, this is a magical spot from where countless mountains, islands and lochs can be viewed – not to mention the blue waters of both the Moray Firth to the east and The Minch to the west.

The View From Sgurr Fiona

Following a leisurely lunch, we (she) decided we would dispense with the traverse of the jaw-dropping leaning spire of Lord Berkeley’s Seat and the sandstone pinnacles of Corrag Bhuidhe. We opted instead for the narrow path that skirts the south-western slopes of the mountain. The path is no walk in the park though and care should be exercised – the drop may concentrate the mind of those not well-acquainted with airy sandstone terraces.

The Fisherfield Six From Sgurr Fiona

Eventually the path re-joined the ridgeline and we continued up and over Stob Cadha Gobhlach and Sail Liath before descending the tricky quartzite scree path that led us to Lochan na Bradhan. Everything started to happen quickly now and we were soon intercepting the track back to Corrie Hallie and the waiting car. Such an amazing day justified a truly special dining celebration and so it proved to be. Fish, chips and mushy peas never tasted better………!

Thanks to Jennifer for being such an enthusiastic companion on some of my favourite hills. It's off to the Pyrenees next week with a party of 12 - and a slightly different group dynamic! I love my job!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm