Quinag & Loch Assynt From Conival
Having been well and truly flushed out of Skye, I travelled north up the Ullapool road to join Pete and Jackie for some hills of an altogether different hue! The main aim of the week were the Fisherfield Six – a remote and inconvenient clutch of 6 Munros far from roads, settlements and most significantly of all as it turned out, bridges! There a number of other mountains in the far north to be climbed first though……
A Study in Grey Skies, Windswept Summit & Gore-tex!
Ben Klibreck
What a squelchathon this mountain proved to be! Every time I climb it, I vow never to return. Fate (and Pete) brought me back for another look – just in case I was being unduly pessimistic. I wasn’t! The water in the River Vagastie was high so there was to be no convenient crossing at the usual start point close to Spot Height 176. Instead, we parked a mile further up the glen and crossed the burn at the footbridge near Vagastie. Whilst this gave us a dry crossing of the river, it also introduced an additional 4 miles of soft, squelchy bog to trudge across through water-logged ground, over flooded burns and around lochs before we gained the higher ground.
Ben Klibreck
The short sharp ascent of A'Chioch seemed almost welcome after the tiring bog-plod. This took us up on to the good path (the first, and only, one of the day!) that follows the ridge that leads quickly to the fine summit cone of the mountain: Ben Klibreck (962m; hill of the speckled cliff). A small group of ptarmigan provided a colourful diversion whilst the plaintive wail of a golden plover seemed an appropriate soundtrack to the empty lands that surround this isolated Munro. Our relief at reaching the summit was tempered by the knowledge that we would need to retreat the same way all the way back to the car. And that's just what we did!
Man of Action - Pete Conquers Mother Nature!
I'm sorry to sound so negative about Klibreck. It has a fine airy ridge, a graceful summit cone and an isolated position that makes it conspicuous for many miles around thereby demanding the attention of hillwalkers. If it just wasn't surrounded by so much wetness....
Ben More Assynt & Conival
Ben More Assynt & Conival
Conival From Ben More Assynt
These 2 big mountains are the only Munros in Assynt and are distinguished by their pale quartzite colour and peri-glacial boulderfield that litters their 2 summits and the intervening ridge. Start from the obvious car park at Inchnadamph and locate the not-so-obvious start to the walk by walking along the A837 for 300 yds and turning right once across the bridge over the River Traligill. A track leads to Glenbain cottage before becoming a path that leads up the limestone cleft of Gleann Dubh (black glen).
Ben More Assynt From Conival
Quite a few folk (not all of them quite sure of where they were going!) were taking advantage of the drier weather as we climbed steadily up the boggy path to the bealach that gives access to Conival’s north ridge. Here the boulder-hopping starts although the path is still good and expansive views open out in all directions. Westwards, there are great views of the distinctive monoliths of Assynt & Coigach although it is the closer quartzite-covered hills either side of Gleann Dubh that catch the eye. Eastwards, Ben More Assynt is now clearly in view, together with the intervening ridge and expansive views of the wastelands of Sutherland open out. You can even see dear old Ben Klibreck! A big cairn marks the summit of Conival (987m; adjoining hill).
The Hills of Coigach From Ben More Assynt
It can take up to an hour to traverse the ridge across to Ben More Assynt, particularly when wet. The slippery quartzite boulders are here because these 2 high tops were left exposed 40m above the top of the glaciers in the last ice age. This left the quartzite exposed to the elements which shattered the rock into boulders that the ice left behind. Lower summits in the area have been largely swept clean by the glaciers that covered them. There are a few intervening ups and downs before you finally secure your 2nd summit of the day – it’s the northerly of the 2 rockpiles that adorn this highest summit for miles around: Ben More Assynt (998m; big hill of Assynt).
Conival From Gleann Dubh
If you really can't face returning back over Conival, then it's probably safer cutting the corner off to the north, into Coire a'Mhadaidh (corrie of the foxes), rather than the steep, slippery southern slopes surrounding the Dubh Loch Mor (big black loch). We did the former and it definitely saved time; be careful to pick the right line through the scree though!
High rainfall, a huge water catchment area and a distinct lack of bridges conspired to thwart our plans to tackle the Fisherfield 6. Instead, we cycled in from Corrie Hallie to the north by way of a reconnaissance in preparation for a return later in the summer. We left the bikes soon after the (very) rough track starts to descend into Strath na Sealga and walked down and along the fast flowing river eyeing likely crossing points and route options.
Beinn Dearg Mor
The fording points I’d used before were OK but we really only found one place where it was safe to cross – and then only by removing boots, socks and trousers! Ironically, it turned out to be a beautiful, warm and sunny day unspoilt by midges and with only the occasional sandpiper for company. We determined to return another time, probably with a tent, with the intention of completing all 6 in one day as I have done previously. It would have been an excellent day for An Teallach whose majestic sandstone ramparts adorned the view for much of the day.
A Bridge Too Far (No Bridge Actually)!
Glen Strathfarrar
As compensation for Pete for having missed out on Fisherfield, I suggested we drive around to beautiful Strathfarrar, west of Inverness, where 4 Munros form the northern line of a whole series of big mountains that surround the ‘great glens’ of Strathfarrar, Cannich and Affric. Mountain days here tend to be long and memorable and should be a highlight of any Munroist’s experience.
Carn nan Gobhar & Sgurr a' Choire Ghlais
Great spotted woodpeckers darted in front of the car as we drove up the glen (note the restricted opening times of the locked gate that gives access to the glen). Other sources recommend doing the route from east-to-west but I have always preferred west-to-east. The initial climb is much easier up a good stalkers’ path and the mountains get lower a the day progresses - no contest!
The Strathfarrar Ridge From Sgurr a' Choire Ghlais
We duly traversed the 4 Munros and 2 Tops linked, for the most part, by a classic ridge that twists and turns above a series of steep-sided north-facing corries. Everyone else seemed to have opted for the ‘book route’ and passed us going the other way. For us, a fine stalkers’ path carried us almost effortlessly and pretty swiftly up to Sgurr Fuar-thuill (1049m; peak of the cold hollow) from where easy ridge walking led to the highest and most impressive peak of the range, Sgurr a’ Choire Ghlais (1083m; peak of the grey-green corrie). A steep descent leads to the boulder-strewn hump of Carn nan Gobhar (992m; hill of the goats) from where easy slopes lead to a sharp little defile and equally easy slopes on the other side lead directly to the undistinguished summit of Sgurr na Ruaidhe (993m; peak of the redness).
How Many Summit Cairns Does One Hill Need?
A squelchy descent over grassy slopes deposited us on the rough path that leads out of Coire Mhuillidh and back down to the road where Jackie was waiting conveniently for us. We really didn’t need to trek the 6Km back up the tarmac to the start point - no matter how pretty Glen Strathfarrar undoubtedly is!
Can I Have a Day Off Now Please...?
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