Knoydart & Kintail

The Five Sisters of Kintail - Sgurr Fhuaran

We sailed into Knoydart with the remnants of Hurricane Katia bearing down on us. We sailed out 3 days later in sublime west coast sunshine, a flat calm and blue skies! In between, we sat out the storm and waited for conditions to allow us one big mountain day before moving on to Kintail where we faired somewhat better. Catherine will have to return to Knoydart to add Ladhar Bheinn to her rapidly growing list of Munros but her accomplished traverse of the Forcan Ridge in Kintail in difficult conditions more than made up for any unclimbed mountains.

Knoydart: Meall Buidhe & Luinne Bheinn

The Knoydart Munros From the Inverie Ferry

This 26Km round of 2 Munros and the huge, ice-stripped bowl of Coire Odhair is never easy but we managed it in under 9hrs in reasonable conditions and with some views. For the 2nd time in as many months, a stalking group passed us on the walk-in and the sight of them and some fishermen on the Inverie River reminded us that this is very much a working estate, not just a hill-walkers playground. We walked up into Gleann Meadail before striking up the bracken-covered hillside on to Druim Righeanaich and followed the long, gently climbing ridge to the summit of Meall Buidhe (946m; yellow hill). There’s a 70m dip before the final climb to the summit which less than impressed Catherine I can tell you, so be warned of false summits!

Catherine 'Bathing' in the Sunshine on Luinne Bheinn!

The mountain’s SE Top lies a short distance away from where the path plunges steeply (but clearly) down and then over a series of humps and hillocks that form the enclosing ridge of Coire Odhair. This route can be tricky in cloudy conditions so take care and avoid any difficulties by staying on the west side of the ridge. The view to the east includes the distinctive cone of Sgurr na Ciche and the very impressive Corbett of Ben Aden. A smidgen of sun emerged from behind dark clouds – enough for Catherine to declare we were now officially ‘bathing’ in sunshine! Being from Oban, her views on what constitutes meaningful sunshine obviously differ from mine…

Luinne Bheinn

The lowest point on the ridge (684m) comes just before the climb up steep grassy slopes to the next Munro: Luinne Bheinn (939m; swelling hill). Like Meall Buidhe, this peak has 2 summits; in this case, the highest point is again the western-most one which is 2m higher and 500m to the west of the lower summit. Great views suddenly emerged down to Barrisdale and across Loch Hourn to Arnisdale – one (and probably the only) advantage of Luinne Bheinn being such a steeply-sided mountain on all sides!

Meall Buidhe & Sgurr na Ciche From Inverie

With our long 2hr walk-out stretched out below us we descended to the bealach (pass) of Mam Barrisdale and picked up the squelchy, but reasonable, track that took us nearly all the way home. I say nearly as, right on cue, our stalking friends appeared in their fully-functioning land rover and kindly carried us without any effort from our own legs the short (but very important) last mile to the bunkhouse!

Kintail: The Saddle & Sgurr na Sgine

The Forcan Ridge of The Saddle

Unfortunately, Jon couldn’t make the Kintail leg of our trip so it was just the 2 of us who journeyed north from Fort William in brilliant sunshine to climb some classic west coast mountains. The drive down Glen Shiel never fails to impress and that first view of the coast at Loch Duich as you round the curve at Shiel Bridge is always a special moment. The fire damage from last April when widespread wind-driven flames leapt up the lower slopes of the Five Sisters of Kintail was hardly noticeable. Mother Nature has once again woven her magic spell in covering the charred hillside in lush, new verdant greenery!

Approaching the Forcan Ridge

The next day (naturally), dawned grey, windy and wet. The cloudbase was pretty high though and we embarked on one of the area’s finest excursions: the ascent of The Saddle via that mountain’s scintillating Forcan Ridge! One of the best stalkers’ paths in Scotland leads up from the road and across the slopes of Meallan Odhar. An hour leads to an intervening ridge which curves and climbs up to below The Saddle’s rocky E Top: Sgurr na Forcan to become the Forcan Ridge. What follows can easily be avoided in hostile weather by traversing to the south and remaining below the ridge. Today, however, it was just good enough to continue and we remained on the ridgeline as it reared up into what becomes a sharp, rocky knife-edge of a ridge that concentrates the mind wonderfully!

The Saddle

After reaching the top of Sgurr na Forcan, a more horizontal ridge continues, but it remains very exposed on both sides with some difficult steps that require great care. A short way after leaving Sgurr na Forcan, a seemingly impossible down-step can be avoided down a greasy gulley on the south side of the ridge that enables the ridge to be regained after the difficult step. Eventually, the ground rises to another rocky summit beyond which a short horizontal ridge leads to the summit of The Saddle (1010m). This is the only Munro to have solely an English name with no Gaelic equivalent. It is a great, complex mountain with ridges radiating in all directions and views – on a good day – as good as anywhere. An OS trig point lies 1m lower and 100m further to the W of the main summit.

The Forcan Ridge

After the excitement of the Forcan Ridge, we descended the easy way to the S of the summit, down steep slopes and over a slippery boulder field to the Bealach Coire Mhalagain. Here, a small lochan provides a useful navigation feature in misty conditions. A sketchy path then climbs the hillside to the SE on to the skyline. Here we saw our only people of the day: passing huddles of gore-tex that were returning from our next peak. Soon after, the clouds lifted to reveal bright, if fleeting, sunshine and views along the S Glen Shiel Ridge and across Loch Hourn to the familiar peaks of Knoydart. Ahead, beyond an intermediate Top, lay our 2nd Munro: Sgurr na Sgine (946m; peak of the knife). Don’t be fooled by the gentle approach – the mountain plummets down near-vertical cliffs immediately to the SE of the summit cairn!

Sgurr na Sgine

We returned to the bealach and traversed below Sgurr na Forcan to pick up our outward route and follow it back to the car.

Kintail: Bheinn Fhada & A’Ghlas-bheinn.

Bheinn Fhada

Bheinn Fhada is another fine, complex mountain that extends for 8Km and embraces steep corries, unrelenting grassy slopes and, unusually for these parts, a great flat plateau on top - the Plaide Mhor (great blanket).

The Gates of Affric

We parked, as always, in the woods at Dorusduain and crossed the essential footbridge over the Abhainn Chonaig before joining the excellent path from Morvich. This leads into scenic Gleann Choinneachan which today, was very green, very quiet and very warm! The sunshine continued as we climbed up into Coire an Sgairne and on to the skyline. This is the best route on to Bheinn Fhada – an excellent stalkers’ path that leads all the way on to the Plaide Mhor and with the precipitous northern corries of the mountain and rain-swelled burns for added interest!

Gleann Choinneachan

Once on the plateau, a more sketchy path led us across the Plaide Mhor and eventually up the flat summit and trig point of Bheinn Fhada (1032m; long hill). The views are great: east along Glen Affric to the Great Glen, west across the Plaide Mhor to the sea and a distant Skye, and south to the Five Sisters of Kintail. It is a place to linger on a good day and savour the location.

The Summit of Bheinn Fhada & the Plaide Mhor

We returned part way down our stalkers’ path before traversing around and up to the Bealach an Sgairne: the Gates of Affric. This glacial meltwater channel is the closest point that Scotland’s E-W watershed comes to the west coast. Above it, to the north, a clear and easy path climbs on to the interminable hummocky SE ridge of our 2nd Munro: A’Ghlas-bheinn (918m; the grey-green hill). This otherwise unremarkable hill holds good memories and deserves to be visited occasionally. It is best descended along its broad, grassy W ridge that drops in steps to a beautiful spot by a new bridge where the Strath Croe path to the Falls of Glomach emerges from the forest.

Strath Croe & Loch Duich From A’Ghlas-bheinn

We followed the forest tracks back down to Dorusduain in bright sunshine but with a black sky chasing us and the green glen bedecked with brilliant rainbows. It was yet another golden moment, one of several I’ve enjoyed in this glen over the years. As if to underline how lucky we had been, we drove back to the accommodation in torrential rain!

Rainbow & Dark Skies Over A’Ghlas-bheinn!

It’s been an singularly unspectacular summer weather-wise and this week’s autumnal winds and heavy showers do not bode well for next week’s trip to Torridon. You never know though………

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Glen Coe

Bidean nam Bian

With only 7 Munros to go, David thought it prudent to get a little help with finishing off the big rocky mountains that line the southern fringe of majestic Glen Coe. Here, above the much-photographed Three Sisters, all ridges lead to the surprisingly diminutive cairn atop the big bulky massif of Bidean nam Bidean, the highest point in Argyll. This peak lies hidden from the A82 as it snakes its way down the ‘Glen of Weeping’. However, a second Munro, Stob Coire Sgreamhach, and the graceful cone of Stob Coire nan Lochan can be seen from the road and these 3 peaks make a great – and not overly long – mountain day in a stunning part of the Scottish Highlands.

Coire Gabhail - The Lost Valley

Setting off from the upper of the 2 adjacent car parks half-way down the Glen, we immediately lost 30m (a point not lost on David) in descending to cross the River Coe. Then it was up the excellent path that leads into Coire Gabhail - the Lost Valley - where the MacDonalds reputedly hid their stolen cattle, although stumbling over the boulders that guard the entrance to this hanging valley, it’s unclear exactly how they got them up here! A tree creeper flitting up and down a nearby birch provided added interest as did the occasional deer on the upper slopes (not long until the rut starts)! Once through the boulder field, the sudden flatness of the valley floor always surprises people on their first visit and it’s always good to be here.

Looking Back Down Coire Gabhail

The path crosses the flats and then climbs leisurely up the right-hand side of the valley towards the skyline. A gentle shower (the only rain of the day) threatened to spoil our day but soon relented, as did the clouds, and we picked our way up the ever-steepening headwall. Take care here as the much-repaired path gives way to slippery scree and the final 20m is tricky on pink rhyolite gravel in a steep narrow gulley. A small cairn marks th e point where the path meets the skyline at the Bealach Dearg (red pass). This route is probably best avoided in descent.

The Etive Hills

We turned left and climbed the easy 120m to the summit of Stob Coire Sgreamhach (1072m; peak of the dreadful corrie). The expansive views across the Etive hills to the south and east were enhanced by a cauldron of clouds that billowed and blew around the surrounding peaks. We had an excellent view of our remaining 2 peaks across the green void of Coire Gabhail.

Coire Gabhail & Bein Fhada From Stob Coire Sgreamhach

We returned the same way back to the Bealach Dearg, paused for lunch in a brief spell of sun, and then climbed through the clouds to our highest point of the day, Bidean nam Bian (1150m; pinnacle of the hills). No view today so we moved quickly on and down the NE ridge rapidly descending to the grassy bealach that separates Bidean from our 3rd peak of the day, Stob Coire nan Lochan (1115m; peak of the corrie of the lochan). The slopes of this fine peak fall away steeply on all sides but one and its eponymous corrie is one of the most popular destinations in the Highlands for winter skills. I’ve always thought it a mountain truly deserving of Munro status.

Stob Coire nan Lochan

In clearing conditions we descended the eastern arc of Coire an Lochan until the slope levelled out and we slipped left into the corrie itself and followed the excellent path down past numerous waterfalls into Glen Coe and so back to the car.

Stob Coire nan Lochan From Glen Coe

This was an exhilarating 6½ mountain day encompassing 3 fine peaks in pretty good conditions that has set me up nicely for next week and a return to Knoydart and then on to Kintail. Autumn is fast approaching and promises to be a busy fulfilling time! Bring it on!

A Happy Man - Only 5 To Go!!!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Knoydart 2011

Ladhar Bheinn From Barrisdale Bay

Just back from my first visit to Knoydart this year and an interesting week it proved to be. One client, one hill and one day that didn’t happen! I don’t have many photos for you, just a couple of library shots of the mountain we did climb and some pretty pics taken on the way to the pub!

Inverie

We knew Day 2 was going to be wetter than a wet thing so we planned our mountains for Days 1 and 3. Consequently, no sooner were we off the ferry and unpacked than we were heading out for Knoydart’s finest: Ladhar Bheinn. This mighty mountain, the mainland’s western-most Munro, is most easily climbed from the Folach, a ruined house at the end of a good track 6km north of Inverie. Given the late start and a keen eye for an easy life, I was extra receptive to any means of shortening the day. Consequently, a suggestion from our accommodation manager (thanks Christine!) to make use of the neighbourly 4X4 taxi service was seized upon with gleeful anticipation! So it was we shaved a good hour of track-trudging off our afternoon and eliminated the long walk-in that Ladhar Bheinn demands from her southern approaches.

Looking NE From Ladhar Bheinn (a view we didn't see)!

Accompanied for part of the climb by soon-to-be Munroist David (7 to go as I write this!), we climbed the easy grassy slopes and not-so-easy wet path to the skyline of An Diollaid before turning right for the summit ridge. We entered cloud half way to the top and a cool breeze took the edge off most things. It then started to rain on top albeit for no more than 10 mins. Regrettably I only enjoyed the benefit of my waterproofs for 2 of those mins having waited too long for ‘the passing shower’ to pass!

Looking East From Ladhar Bheinn (another view we didn't see)!

Ironically, we had cloud, wind and rain for the otherwise entertaining summit ridge of Ladhar Bheinn (1020m; pr = larven = hoof hill). No views unfortunately, so it was back the same way to the Folach and then the 90 min stroll back to Inverie, Elaine’s first Munro safely in the bag.

On The way To The Pub!

As expected, Day 2 was cloudy and wet and we lay low in preparation for an assault on Meall Buidhe on the following morn. That morn broke bright and sunny and we set off up the Barrisdale track waiting for our hill to come into sight. A short while later 2 landrovers passed: a stalking party complete with cigar-smoking client away to slither in the wet grass in some remote corrie in pursuit of stalking glory. After a while we came to one of the landrovers parked untended on the track. We moved past and continued on our way; I could see no activity up on the hillside opposite the mountain we were aiming for. Then Elaine stopped and confessed she was uncomfortable with being in such close proximity to the ‘hunters on the hill’ and had no desire to go on. I knew it would be wrong to try and persuade her otherwise given the genuineness and seriousness of her concern so our short mountain day was over and we returned (safely) to Inverie.

On The Way Back From The Pub!

The next day we returned to Mallaig on the morning ferry all set for a night-stop in Fort William and a walk up Ben Nevis on which to end the week. However, on disembarking at the pier at Mallaig, Elaine declared a change of heart and announced she had decided to return to Knoydart for a few days, such had been the effect of the peninsula on her. Consequently, we parted company a day and a mountain early and went our own ways. Knoydart can have that effect on you; it is quite special. I’ve never lost a client there before though!

West Coast Sunset!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Ben Nevis - Rush Hour!

Glen Nevis

Well obviously you don’t take the Tourist path up Ben Nevis on the 3rd Saturday of July in bright blue sunshine and expect to have the hill to yourself. We didn’t!

Bill & Adam Lead the Way

A veritable swarm of walkers, runners, charity teams, family groups, dogs and a lady in a burka accompanied Bill, Adam and myself up the UK’s highest chunk of real estate. They were still heading up late in the day as we were finishing – mainly Three Peaks challengers embarking on their 24hr quest.

Tower Ridge

The summit was predictably busy but a snow bunting proved to be a welcome distraction perched on top of the emergency shelter and tweeting his heart out. He’s probably quite a fat little snow bunting by now given the amount of discarded food I saw!

First Munro - Not a Bad Start!

Needless to say, wide expansive views were available all day long and the Ben was in an unusually benign mood – and probably will be for the next few days. Grab it whilst it’s hot!

Check out my future plans for similar walks on: http://www.hillways.co.uk/summer/summer.htm

Pyrenees 2011

Cirque de Gavarnie

Last week saw a welcome return to the Pyrenees and a 5-day hut-to-hut trek criss-crossing the French/Spanish border. Eighteen months in the planning, the trip was largely the culminating expedition in a programme of walking trips and Duke of Edinburgh Award expeditions for 10 cadets of No 633 Air Training Corps Squadron. Helene, their boss, came along to help provide a mutually-beneficial interface between the quinquagenerian (try saying that after a glass of Merlot - or before, for that matter) mountain leader and his boisterous band of teenagers! Friend (and cadet instructor) Dave was there too, not only to provide invaluable help, but also to carry the sponsor's flags and provide a sonorous soundtrack to otherwise long silent nights in the mountain huts!!! The trek started and finished in probably the most-visited village in the Pyrenees: Gavarnie.

Mt Perdido (3355m)

The village stands at the end of a steep-sided valley at the foot of the Cirque de Gavarnie, a curved amphitheatre of towering rock, snow and ice down which drops the highest waterfall in Europe, the Grand Cascade. The trek is fully contained within the French Pyrenees and Spanish Ordesa National Parks which are both listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites. The primary geographical feature on the Spanish side is the Ordesa canyon, a 1000m-deep cleft of vertical limestone cliffs. Trekking between Gavarnie and the canyon involves a steep climb across the Pyrenean watershed, a line of 3000m mountains along which the French/Spanish border runs.

Le Grande Cascade

This watershed is spectacularly breached at the Breche de Roland, a 40m wide, 100m vertically-sided gap in the mountain wall and a key crossing point for trans-frontier trekking routes in the area. We also planned to climb the 3rd highest mountain in the Pyrenees, Mt Perdido (3355m) which completes this stunning collection of outstanding topographical features conveniently arranged within a 50Km circuit in this spectacular pocket of SW Europe.

Approaching the End of the Ordesa Canyon

Following a night in Toulouse we drove to Gavarnie under gloomy skies that promised little for the coming days. We needn't have worried, however, as the following morning dawned bright and clear and we set off in high spirits and under blue skies towards the first great landmark of our trek: the Cirque de Gavarnie. Mule trains still carry tourists between Gavarnie and the Cirque and their sight - and smell - are an enduring feature of this first hour! We left the tourist trail soon after the first of several cadet Magnum fixes at the strategically-placed Hotellerie du Cirque and walked across the floor of the Cirque towards the start of the day's climbing.

Up the Ladder to the Roof!

A steep path up rock terraces lifted us out of the Cirque and it fair took our breath away (almost literally for Selina) as we climbed in the afternoon sun up the Echelle des Sarradets (ladder of Sarradets). Half way up, some cretin (Fr = pratt) above us let loose a sizeable block of local geology which narrowly missed the whole party except for poor Rosie who coolly elbowed it out of the way to prevent further damage! Rosie being Rosie, nobody realised she'd been hit until she displayed a sizeable bruise some days later! A withering look and some blunt Anglo-Saxon advice at the guilty yoof didn't appear to have much effect on the guilty party but at least it made us (me) feel better! Eventually, the slope eased and our home for the night appeared: the Refuge de la Breche de Roland (or Sarradets Hut; 2587m).

The Refuge de la Breche de Roland (or Sarradets Hut).

Day 2 (much to Selina's relief) was downhill all the way, initially over rock down to the Port de Boucharo where we crossed into Spain, and then down the grassy Lapazosa valley to a sunny Valle de Bujaruelo and a stop for lunch at the picturesque Puente de Bujaruelo (Bujaruelo Bridge). Here we were entertained by watching 2 youth leaders cajoling their group of under-10s across the Ara river as well as our own gang failing miserably to master the art of balancing on a dry rock in a wet river (you know who you were...)!

Puente de Bujaruelo

An hour down a dusty track lay the beautifully-placed and well-appointed camping/hostel facility of Camping y Refugio Valle de Bujaruelo (1250m) where the joys of porcelain conveniences were once again reunited with our grateful youngsters! Funny old thing though: there's obviously something in the water hereabouts as once-exhausted international trekkers suddenly found the energy to rush around noisily playing hide and seek whilst more senior heads lay on comfortable beds and dreamt of silence!

An Atmospheric Ordesa Canyon

Day 3 started with more of the dusty track before joining the GR11 long-distance footpath at the Navarros Bridge at the entrance to the long-awaited Ordesa canyon. From here, soaring limestone cliffs filled the sky and shafts of sunlight cut through translucent clouds creating a real atmospheric ambience to enhance our journey up the canyon.

Mr Hillways and One Big Canyon!

A further hour took us to the road-head and tourist centre at the Pradera de Ordesa (Ordesa Meadow) where more Magnums were consumed before the cadets led us up the 600m switchback of the Senda de los Cazadores (hunter's path) to a lofty viewpoint high above the canyon floor with stunning views across - and along - the canyon. Half-way through the trek it was particularly pleasing to see Mat (one 't'), Ollie and Emma respond so well to the challenge of leadership and ensure everyone got up OK. There followed the long, but entertaining, traverse of the Ordesa canyon towards its head below the bulk of Mt Perdido largely unseen under its misty shroud.

The Head of the Ordesa Canyon

The excellent Faja de Pelay clings largely to the 1900m contour and is a superb rolling vantage point from which to observe the graceful crescent of the canyon. Gradually the canyon floor rose to meet us as we approached the head of the canyon at the Circo de Soaso and began the final 400m climb to our refuge for the next 2 nights: the Goriz Hut (2170m).

The Goriz Hut

Circling Griffon vultures seemed to have noticed the increasing (and inevitable) weariness of our gallant group and were no doubt eyeing up any stragglers! The typically crowded Goriz Hut proved to be a popular stop for us (apart from the toilets...ugh!) with friendly staff, warm sunshine and grassy surroundings on which to relax after all the walking. Even Chris found something he actually liked on the menu!

Spring Snow on Mt Perdido!

Day 4 was to have seen us stand triumphantly atop the summit cone of Mt Perdido (3355m), 3rd highest Pyrenean peak. Unfortunately, late spring snow had overstayed its welcome and proved to be initially difficult to cross and then dangerous so we limited ourselves to a snow-free viewpoint at 3050m/10,000' which we rightfully all agreed was a tremendous achievement in its own right. Helene led an emotional group hug and said some fine words, the team posed for numerous photographs in their expedition t-shirts (I didn't!!!) and Dave got the flags out again for more pics to send to the sponsors. We returned the same way to the hut, not too disappointed, and ready for our last day back to Gavarnie on the morrow.

Descending the Breche de Roland

Our last day proved to be quite a challenge one way or the other. The first part of our walk back to the Breche was trouble-free - a good path, great scenery and some chamois and griffon vultures for company. As we neared the Breche though, more snowfields resulted in a number of diversions and an interesting rock step gave everyone something to think about! It was a great learning experience for the team and everyone acquitted themselves admirably, particularly Ollie who became our 2nd falling rock casualty. He couldn't quite get his head to a weighted pass from Matt and took a nasty knock on the knee which caused him to say 'golly-gosh' a number of times!

Approaching the Breche

Eventually, we toiled through the spectacular gap of the Breche de Roland and returned to France - only to be confronted with yet another snowfield! Fortunately, this one came with a flattened path created by hundreds of fellow walkers and was safely - if slowly - negotiated by everyone, including Mat, whose walking lessons were showing clear signs of benefit! Below the snow we passed once again the Sarradets hut and continued down, down, down to the beautiful green valley of the Vallee des Pouey Aspe across the Plateau de Bellevue and down into Gavarnie where food, drink and porcelain awaited, probably in reverse order of importance!

The Gavarnie Valley

In all we trekked 41 miles/65 Km and climbed 19,000'/5100m over the 5 days. Well done everyone and a big thank you to Mat, Ollie, Emma, Chris, Chris, Jack, Matt, Jackson, Selina and Rosie for being such great company. And to Helene and Dave, where's my bloody t-shirt?!!! This particular trek can be walked in either direction but I would recommend our route as it splits up the hut stops and gives a better balanced route profile. In Gavarnie we stayed at the Hotel le Mabore http://www.lemarbore.com the best place in town for location, accommodation and friendly and effective service. Say Hi to Bernard and Roselyne if you’re passing through but watch out for Jack Daniels – especially if your name’s Helene!